Transcript Time to produce erythema in protected skin

Skin Products
Neil Watson
The Body Shop
[email protected]
 Formulating cleansing products
 Formulating moisturising products
 Control of body odour and sweat
 Sun Protection
 Removal of unwanted hair
Cleansing products
• Product types
Soap. (Superfatted soap, Transparent/ Glycerin soap,
Translucent/ pearlised soap, Combo Bars (Dove Beauty Bar,
Syndet bars.)
Emulsions. (Creams, Lotions, Milk, Cold Cream,
Rinse –off emulsions (foaming cleansers)).
Liquid synthetic detergents.
Gels. (Surfactant, basic viscous lotion).
Wipes.
Masks.
Mousse.
Scrubs.
Toners.
Skin types
 Dry skin
 Normal/Combi skin
 Oily skin
Moisturising
Products
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Formulating moisturising products
 Emollients
– An emollient is a material which, when applied to the
skin makes it feel soft and smooth.
 Humectants
– These exhibit hygroscopic behaviour, they can draw
in and hold onto large amounts of water.
What makes a good moisturiser?
 You need to understand the skin type you are
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formulating for.
You need to understand target area
It should feel nice on application, not too greasy.
It shouldn’t ‘soap up’
It should smell nice, or have no base odour
Additives
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Natural additives
Hydroxyacids
Vitamins
EFAs
Polysaccharides
Delivery vehicles – liposomes, encapsulates
Control of body
odour and
sweating
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Sweat
 Apocrine – contains proteins and amino acids
- Main source of nutrients for bacteria
 Eccrine
– salt and water
Formulations
 3 actions
 Odour modification – deodorising action or
masking
– Fragrance
 Odour removal – washing
 Odour prevention – anti-perspirants
– Aluminum Chlorohydrate
– Aluminum zirconium Chlorohydrate
Product formats
 Roll-on – good skin contact, efficacy
» Might pull your hair, longer drying time
 Aerosol – quick drying time
» Hygienic
 Stick - good skin contact, efficacy
» Poor hygiene profile
 Cream – excellent skin contact
» messy
Efficacy testing
 Olfactory
 Sniff test – trained noses
 Gravometric
 Controlled conditions
 Weighing the amount of sweat
 At least 20% reduction in sweat levels in treated versus
untreated
Sun
protection
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Suncare products
 How does sunlight affect the skin?
– Tanning through darkening of melanin precursors
– Skin damage – sunburn, premature ageing, skin
cancer
• Free radicals
UVA & UVB light
UVA – (320-400nm)
Responsible for long term damage
Can penetrate glass
UVB – (290-320nm)
Causes sunburn (erythema)
Sunscreens
 A Sunscreen is the UV light absorbing agent that
helps to lower the incidence of dermal
malignancies. The function of the sunscreen is
the protection of the skin from damaging UV
light.
 Physical sunscreens
 Chemical Sunscreens
SPF calculations and star rating
SPF = Time to produce erythema in protected skin
Time to produce erythema in unprotected skin
 Star Rating = mean UVA/UVB ratio
– 0 to <0.2
too low to make UVA claim
Hair
Removal
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How do we remove hair?
 Mechanical
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Tweezing
Threading
Electrical epilation
Electrolysis
Sugaring
Waxing
Shaving
 Chemical
– Thiglycollates
– Enzymes
Epilation & Depilation
 Epilation – is a process of hair removal from
below the skin’s surface
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Depilation – is a process of the temporary
removal of hair from the surface of the skin.
Shaving
 Wet shave
 Soften hair
 Mechanical removal
 Dry shave
 Reducing friction on skin
Depilatories
 Thyoglycollate
– Work by breaking the disulphide linkages in the
keratin hair fibres, and totally disintegrate the hair
 Enyzme based
– These contain protein-digesting enzymes (papain is a
good example. Treat the empty hair follicle to reduce
hair growth over a number of months