Transcript hair maintenance class

WELCOME TO
HAIR MAINTENANCE 101
THIS IS WHAT YOUR HAIR LOOKS LIKE
The hair that protrudes from
the head is called the hair
shaft
Did you know?
Your hair is made up of
protein in the form of
keratin
It is considered dead
The hair bulb is where
nutrients are received and
new cells are formed.
HAIR STRUCTURE
Each Stand of hair shaft is made up of 3 layers;
1. Cuticle: The outer covering
2. Cortex: Middle layer made up of keratinized
protein fibers
1.
2.
3.
3. Medulla: Central core made of round cells
usually present in coarse hair and absent in
fine hair.
WHY IS BLACK HAIR DIFFERENT?
•
Our hair adapted to our hot climate
 Acts as a sponge for sweat
 Protects our scalp and body from
burning
•
Contains Medulla: Cells not found in fine hair.
•
The ‘kinkiness’ of our hair makes it more
difficult for sebum to travel the length of the
hair shaft.
 Hence drier, not as “elastic”, more prone
to breakage. In fact, the most fragile hair
type in the world!
HAIR BREAKAGE - THE ENEMY!
•
Black hair grows just as fast as any other hair type
 It’s just really hard to retain length but NOT IMPOSSIBLE
•
Black hair breakage is due to many factors
 Neglect: The number one killer!
 Not moisturizing enough (deep conditioning especially)
 Leaving protective styles like weave or braids for too long without care
 Heat. oh heat!- Direct heat i.e. blow-drying, flat ironing, the use of curling
irons
 Chemicals- Very controversial but true. Relaxers, hair colour and bleaching
agents are damaging.
 Mechanical factors- Combing , brushing, not detangling properly, over
manipulation.
HAIR BREAKAGE VS HAIR SHEDDING
BREAKAGE
vs
SHEDDING
Hair will break into two equal or unequal
halves leaving some of the hair shaft
vs
Hair will pull out from the roots , tiny white
bulb will be visible.
Is as a result of lack of moisture and/or
protein, too much heat, over manipulation,
chemical damage.
vs
Considered normal to shed 50-500 strands
a day. However, may be abnormal if
excessive.
Will cause unevenness and will split the ends
vs
Will neither cause unevenness nor split
your ends. However, may drastically reduce
fullness if excessive.
Easier to avoid/control because its man
caused
vs
Harder to avoid. May need medical
attention if excessive
YOU AND YOUR HAIR
•
Patience, Patience, Patience
 Hair grows an average of half an inch a month
 Hence, takes time and a lot of effort to see length and volume
•
You are your hair’s best advocate
 Not a stylist or hair consultant – we give valuable advice but understanding
your hair is ultimately you.
Learn to DIY- that’s the ONLY way you get to know your hair.
 A lot of trial and error: Pay attention to what your hair likes and dislikes, not
all products are good for all.
HEALTHY HAIR 101
•
What is healthy hair?
 Hair that has the right balance of protein and moisture.
•
Eating healthy is the foundation of healthy hair
 Eat the foods, don’t depend on supplements
Avoid crash diets
Protein rich foods and food loaded with Omega 3, Vitamin B12, Vitamins A , C, and Iron
are essential
 Dark green vegetables, legumes (lentils), nuts, poultry ,carrots, oily fish
•
Nature, Nurture or both?
 Genetics plays a big role: Naturally thriving hair from forefathers without much effort.
 Others need to put in more effort to achieve same results.
 Combination of both is bliss!!

Hair CAN grow long and healthy whether it is relaxed or natural and no matter the texture.
Never give up on your hair!
BASIC HAIR REGIMEN
TIMING
ACTIVITY
H
Weekly
Detangle, co-wash and deep condition for moisture.
H
Every two weeks
Shampoo to take dirt and product buildup out
H
Every month to six weeks
Do a protein treatment to add strength
M
Every six weeks
Clarify your hair to strip it to a fresh start
M
When needed
Cowash for a quick fix
H
Everyday
Moisturize and seal in moisture to replenish moisture.
H
Every night
Tie a silk scarf and/or use a silk pillowcase for hair protection.
H
Everyday
Eat healthy well balanced meals to nourish from the inside
out.
A BEGINNERS WEEK IN THE WORLD OF HAIR
SUNDAY
MONDAY
•Detangle,
Shampoo,
deep
condition,
moisturize,
seal, style
•Moisturize
and seal
TUESDAY
• Moisturize
and seal
WEDNESDAY
• Detangle,
Co wash,
Moisturize
and seal,
restyle.
THURSDAY
•Moisturize
and seal
FRIDAY
•Moisturize
and seal
Once a month- six weeks /once in 2 months (natural hair): Protein treatment.
Note : If you choose to deep condition every two weeks, co-wash the weekend in between deep
conditioning treatments.
SATURDAY
•Moisturize
and seal
MOISTURIZING TREATMENTS
•
What is a moisture treatment?
 Treatment that hydrates the hair by absorbing water into your hair shaft and keeping it
locked inside for as long as possible .
•
W A T E R is the ultimate moisturizer
 All ingredients in moisturizing hair products are to aid water absorption and retention.
•
Three main ways:
1. Deep conditioning
2. Co washing
3. Moisturizing and sealing.
1. DEEP CONDITION

What you need:
 Water
 Moisturizing shampoo or co-wash
 Moisturizing Deep conditioner
 Shower cap
 Steamer or deep conditioning cap
 A good shower head.

Steps:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Every 1-2
weeks
Section hair into four
Detangle each section by adding water and oil mix while using fingers to detangle OR if
hair is relaxed, use wide tooth comb to detangle.
Shampoo or co-wash your hair in sections
Apply deep conditioner starting from the ends and working your way up to the roots
Sit under the steamer or use a deep conditioning cap for at least 30 minutes
Rinse with cold or lukewarm water.
As needed
2. COWASH: THE KEY TO REVIVING DRY HAIR
 What is co wash?
 Washing with a moisturizing conditioner as opposed to a shampoo
•
Benefits
 Quick moisture boost
 Easier to do on protective styles like braids
 Beneficial for ladies who pour water in their hair often
 What you need
 Co wash conditioner or ordinary conditioner
 Water
As needed
2. CO-WASH CONTD
Steps:
1. Section hair into four, detangle using water and fingers or comb with a wide tooth
comb
2. Wet the hair
3. Apply co-wash from the tip of hair shaft and work your way to the roots
4. Massage the roots to remove dirt and product build up
5. Rinse with cold or lukewarm water
6. Air dry or style
Every DAY!
3. MOISTURIZING AND SEALING: DAILY BOOST
 Most neglected area
 African hair is very dry
 Needs light daily moisture and sealing to keep moisture in
 Helps reduce breakage drastically
 What you need
 Water based leave in conditioner
 Natural oil or butter to seal in moisture
 How to:
1. Apply a table spoon or two of leave in conditioner starting from ends to roots
2. Follow with oil or butters and massage scalp for at least 2 minutes.
PROTEIN TREATMENTS
Every 4-6
weeks
 Benefits
 Adds strength to the hair
 Helps to create balance from too much moisture.
What you need
 Protein shampoo
 Protein treatment or conditoner.
 Strong , medium or mild depending on protein sensitivity.
 Relaxed hair needs more protein than natural hair.
Steps:
1. Wash hair with a protein shampoo
2. Follow with a protein based conditioner e.g. conditioner containing eggs or
mayonnaise
3. Apply conditioner from tip of the hair concentrating on the ends
4. Follow rinsing instructions carefully. Hard protein can be damaging when left for
too long.

BEYOND THE BASICS
Pre shampoo a.k.a. pre-poo: Applying conditioners, oils or butters to dry hair at
least 30 minutes before shampooing .
 Prevents stripping caused by shampooing
 Aids water absorption.
• Tea rinses: Pouring a cup full of boiled and cooled caffeinated tea on hair shaft.
 Caffeine adds strength to hair
• Oil Rinses: Pouring warm penetrating oil on shampooed hair
 Oil helps to lock in moisture
 LOC ( Leave in, oil an cream method)
 Baggy method
 Hair clays and masks etc.
•
BEST STYLES FOR HAIR RETENTION
•
Protective Styles
 Any style that will prevent the hair from being over manipulated
 Conrows, braids
 Weaves
 Buns
 Faux locs
 Twists
 Beware!: Routine must still be in place
 May be tweaked a little to accommodate style
YOU MUST AVOID THESE HAIR BAD HABITS
•
Use of direct heat often and/or excessively
 Air dry instead
 Improvise with other stretching methods eg threading, banding,
 Tension blow dry as last resort
Blow drying with less manipulation and on cool setting.

Avoid over manipulation
 Finger detangle, comb less
 Once styled, leave hair alone.

Avoid neglect.
 Especially when in protective styles.
PRODUCT ALERT!!
•
Avoid products that contain:
 Mineral oil
 Petrolatum
 Lanolin
 Sulphates
 Silicones
 Isopropyl alcohol
 Chlorine
 Color pigments
 Hard to pronounce, scientific sounding ingredients
 Use products that contain natural ingredients
 Less chemicals and preservatives.
YOUR HAIR IS LIKE FINE SILK, TREAT IT AS SUCH AND BE
CONSISTENT!
THANK YOU!