Transcript Hair Anatomy

Hair Loss Series
Module 1- Hair Anatomy
Hair Anatomy
Module 1: Hair Anatomy
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Hair Components: What is hair made of?
Hair Growth Phases: Anagen, Catagen, Telogen
Hair Properties
Basic Hair Care: Shampooing/Conditioning, Styling, Protecting
Client Fact Finding
Hair Fun Facts:
– Each head contains approximately 100,000 hair follicles
– Hair follicles are not actively growing at the same time.
– Growing and shedding happens randomly
– Each follicle grows an average new hair at least 20 times in a
lifetime
– If you pluck a hair, the next period of hair growth occurs
– As we age, the number of follicles capable of growing hair
declines.
– Hair is 91% protein
Sources:
The World of Hair, an on-line reference by Dr. John Gray,
provided by the P&G Hair Care Research Center.
Hair Club for Men and Women
Milady’s Standard Cosmetology, Thomson, Delmar Learning 2004
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Overview
Hair Anatomy
Hair has 2 separate parts
 Hair follicle : Determines the characteristics
of the hair (Alive)
– Sac of skin tissue buried deep in the scalp with a
bulb at the bottom
– Sebaceous gland is attached to the follicle and
gives hair its shine by producing sebum oils
– Capillaries supply nutrients to the follicle
– Hair follicle is divided into 2 regions:
 Hair Bulb: Located inside of the hair follicle.
Houses actively growing cells. As new cells
produce, continually push the cells upward
and arrange into layers
 Outer layers are the lining of the hair
follicle
 Inner layers are the actual hair
 Cells in hair bulb also produce the
pigment (melanin)
 Mid-follicle: Growing cells die and form into
what we know as hair
 Hair shaft: Hair that is seen above the scalp
(Dead)
– Hair that is seen above scalp- These are the dead
cells that turned into keratins
– The hair is lubricated by sebum oils
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Components
Hair Anatomy
 Vellus Hair: Short, fine, not
pigmented hair. Almost never has a
medulla
Components
 Terminal Hair: Long, soft, coarse hair
and pigmented (except grey hair)
 Found on scalp, legs, arms
 Found in kids, and parts of body that many
describe as hair less such as eyelids,
forehead, bald scalp
 Women retain 55% more vellus hair then
men.
QUICK FACT!
NOTE: All follicles are capable of producing
vellus or terminal hair depending on
genetics, age, etc….
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Hair Anatomy
3 basic layers of hair shaft: Medulla, Cortex, Cuticle
 Medulla: Inner most core of the hair
where strength is determined
 Cortex: Middle and largest layer.
Determines color, texture and elasticity
 Cuticle: Protects hair from the
environment by forming a tightly packed
layer of scales that overlap
QUICK FACT!
Your body cannot produce healthy hair
without proper nutrients. We produce 11
of the 20 amino acids that make up hair.
The rest is really what you eat!
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Components
Hair Anatomy
HAIR LIFE CYCLE
Phases of hair growth:
– Anagen: Hair is actively manufacturing new
keratinized cells
 Growth phase (lasts 2 -3 yrs)
 Represents 90% of the hair on the head
 Scalp hair grows faster on women then men
– Catagen: The follicle canal shrinks and detaches
from the dermal papilla. Hair bulb disappears and
root end forms a rounded club
 Transitional phase (2-3 weeks)
 Hair stops growing
 Represents less than 1% of hair
– Telogen:
 Resting phase: (3-4 months)
 No growth
 Represents about 10% of scalp hair
 Hair falls out only after the anagen phase
begins again and a new hair shaft begins to
emerge. (The average person sheds 50-100
telogen hairs/day)
- 6– - Sources: American Medical Association, Laxa Colon, Community
Drug, Merck, Hairloss.com
Hair Growth phases
Hair Anatomy
3 Types of hair:
– Asian:
 Hair is straight
 Black in color
 Ancestors from Orient
 Hair shaft is usually round
– Caucasoid:
 Wavy or straight hair
 Blonde to Black in color
 Northwestern Europe to India
 Red hair
 Hair shaft is usually oval
– African:
 Tight curl
 Black in color
 African descent
 Hair shaft is extremely oval with
distinct edges
QUICK FACT!
Hair Color
Blondes
Brown
Black
Red
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Hairs on Head
140,000
110,000
108,000
80,000
Hair Properties
Hair Structure:
– Why does some hair grow curly? How come
someone can have a different wave pattern as
they get older? Factors include:
 The way the bundles of keratin are
arranged in the hair shaft
 Position of the bulb in the hair follicle
 Shape of hair follicle – it may be curved
or straight
 Irregular growth in the hair bulb
 All hair twists as it grows. Usually the
more twists, the curlier the hair.
 African hair can twist 12 times as much
as Caucausoid and is usually more
vulnerable to chemical or physical
damage because of its structure.
 Coiled hair (extremely curly hair) has a
lower elasticity and breaks easily
Hair Color:
– Melanin in the cortex produces the
pigmentation. Melanin has 2 forms:
 Eumelanin - dark pigment found in black
and brunette hair
 Phaeomelanin- lighter pigment found in
red and blond hair
– Colors include shades of yellow, brown, red
and black
 Grey hair contains fewer melanin
granules
 White hair contains no melanin
 The darker the hair, the more melanin
Hair Anatomy
Hair Properties
Hair- What to look for in a client’s hair:
– Healthy hair reflects light and looks shiny
– Damaged hair looks dry, weak and dull:
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As hair grows, the layers are worn down. This is sped up by wetting, sunlight, heat, sun, chemicals and friction.
Hair Damage Facts:
Usually hair damage takes place gradually in following stages::
– Hair is weakened
– Cuticle begins to break down
– Cuticle disappears, layer by layer
– Cortex is exposed
– Split ends appear
– Hair breaks.
Is conditioning really that important? YES!
– Slows down the natural weathering and wearing down of the cortex
– Dry hair lacks moisture, and moisture must be restored to regain the healthy look
– Lack of moisture means the number of hydrogen bonds may be reduced
– Conditioning re-establishes the hydrogen bonds and improves the moisture
content of the hair by improving the weatherproofing of the cuticle
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Hair Anatomy
Basic Hair Care
 Step 1: Shampoo hair a minimum of 3 times weekly
– Helps to remove dirt and buildup on the hair that can deteriorate the condition of the scalp
– Shampoo must be worked through all of the hair
– Rinse thoroughly to eliminate any residual detergents that can damage the hair shaft and scalp
 Step 2: Condition and moisturize, moisturize, moisturize
– After shampooing the hair, condition for 3 to 5 minutes
– Correct use of conditioners containing light proteins, such as hydrolyzed human hair keratin proteins, can
help strengthen your hair
– A good conditioner with these proteins can easily penetrate the hair shaft to replenish nutrients. These
proteins can also repair split ends. Split ends develop after the protective cuticle has been stripped away from
the end of hair fibers as a result of harsh chemicals or even vigorous brushing
 Step 3: Protect the hair from the elements.
– Use a leave-in conditioner that contains sun block (UV protector)
– Excessive exposure to the sun can damage the hair by inducing oxidation of the sulfur molecules within the
hair shaft, leaving the hair weak, brittle, dry and faded. People who bleach or lighten their natural hair color
may also notice slight color changes in their hair when it is exposed to sun
– Blond hair may turn yellow, fade or become dull due to UV exposure. Even natural brunette hair tends to
develop reddish hues from sun exposure due to oxidation of melanin pigments
 Step 4: Maintain a healthy diet
– Hair requires the same overall nutrition that the body does: plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables, grains and
protein including lean meat and fish
– Dietitians recommend foods high in biotin, including brown rice, bulgar, brewer’s yeast, soybeans, green
peas, lentils, oats, sunflower, seeds and nutritious nuts
– Nutritionists advise healthy hair seekers to eat well-balanced diets that incorporate healthy proteins along with
foods high in vitamins B, C, E, A and K
– Hair instantly responds to the addition of protein-rich foods such as meats, eggs, cheese, seeds and nuts.
Fish packs a double punch of protein combined with healthbuilding essential fatty acids and natural oils.
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Hair Anatomy
Client Fact Finding
What you should know about your client:
– Hair Type and implications for having different types of hair
– Salon habits of your client
 How often is he/she visiting a salon?
 Why types of services? Hair Cut, chemical treatments, other
– Hair Care Habits at home
 Products
 How often shampooing and conditioning hair?
 Is he/she doing something to contribute to hair loss?
 Heat, tight braids, chemical damage?
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Hair Anatomy
Fun Quiz
QUIZ:
1.
What are the 2 types of hair found on the body?
2.
What are the 3 phases of hair growth and how long do they last?
3.
What are the 3 layers of the hair shaft?
4.
What is the difference between the hair follicle and hair shaft?
5.
Why is some hair curly and some straight?
BONUS QUESTIONS:
1.
What is a furuncle?
2.
What is pediculosis capitis? What should you do if you have a client that has this condition?
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