Transcript 12` Facials

Facials
Chapter 23 – 12’
Good skin
 Makes a big difference in the way skin
looks
 Makes a difference in the way a person
feels about their appearance
Introduction
 Oily skin
 Cleaner
 Healthier
 Dry skin
 Look
 Feel more moist & supple
 Aging skin
 Look smoother
 Firmer
 Less wrinkled
 Serve as an oasis in a busy day
 Leaving client feeling refreshed
 Boost a person’s self-esteem and
confidence
 Change the way a person “faces” the
world
 Valuable service for clients who have
skin problems which cause anxiety
 “Focus on” page 710
Skin Analysis and
Consultation
 Skin analysis determines
 Skin type
 Condition of skin
 Type of treatment needed
 Consultation - Ask client questions
 Health
 History
 Advise on home care products and
treatments
Contraindication
 A condition that requires avoiding certain
treatments, procedures or products to
prevent undesirable or negative side
effects
 Caution box page 713
 Health screening form page 711 – 712
 List of information page 715
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Focus on page 713
List of contraindications page 714
Caution box page 715
Contraindications Grid/Table 23-1 page
714
Treatment Records
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Observations
Contraindications
Secured filing cabinet
Each visit
 treatments
 observations
 purchases
Analysis Procedure
 Carefully read health screening form
 Discuss any questions
 Client change into smock and remove
jewelry – lock in safe place
 Cosmetologist/esthetician remove own
jewelry
 Drape client
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Recline into chair
Cleanse the face
Cover eyes
Look under magnifying lamp
Determining Skin Type
 Skin type - determined by how oily or dry
 Hereditary
 Cannot be permanently changed with
treatments
 Skin conditions – characteristics of the
skin associated with a particular skin type
 Look for presence or absence of visible
pores
 Amount sebum produced determines
size of pores
 Hereditary
 Obvious pores – oily
 Lack of visible pores - dry
Skin Types
 Alipidic – “lack of lipids”
 Dry skin
 Does not produce enough sebum to prevent
evaporation of cell moisture
 Dehydration indicates lack of moisture
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Flaky or dry looking
Small fine lines and wrinkles
Any skin type
Feel itchy or tight
 Oily skin
 Produces too much sebum
 Large pores
 Open comedones (blackheads)
 Mixture of solidified sebum and dead cell
build up
 Closed comedones
 Small bumps beneath skin surface
 Solidified sebum and dead cell buildup
 Table 23 – 2 page 716
 Difference between open & closed
comedones
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Size of follicle opening
Ostium
Open comedone has large ostium
Closed comedone has small ostium
Acne
 Pimples in oily areas
 Disorder – follicle becomes clogged
 Infection of the follicle with redness and
inflammation
 Caution box – page 717
 Acne bacteria
 anaerobic – cannot survive in the presence
of oxygen
 Survive from breaking down sebum into fatty
acids
 Acne papules – red pimples that do not have
a pus head
 Pustules – pimples with a pus head
 Pus – fluid made up of dead white blood
cells
Analysis of the Skin
 Conditions are generally treatable
 Dehydration
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Flaky areas
Skin wrinkles easily on the surface
Lack of care
Improper or overdrying skin care products
Sun exposure
 Treat by
 Using hydrators
 Alipidic skin – treatments heavier in texture
 Oilier skin – treatments are lighter weight
 Hyperpigmentation
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Dark blotches of color
Sun exposure or hormone imbalances
Mild exfoliation
Home care products
Daily use of sunscreen
Avoidance of sun exposure
 Sensitive skin
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Thin, red-pink color
Turn red easily
Easily inflamed
Avoid strong cleansers
Fragranced products
Strong exfoliants
 Rosacea – chronic hereditary disorder
indicated by constant or frequent
blushing
 Dilated capillaries present – telangiectasis or
couperose
 Considered a medical disorder dermatologist
 Treat with gentle products & treatments
 Avoid treatments that release heat or
stimulate the skin
 Aging skin
 Loss of elasticity
 Skin tends to sag around eyes and jawline
 Treatments hydrate and exfoliate
 Sun-damaged skin
 Chronically & frequently exposed over
lifetime
 Many areas of hyperpigmentation
 Wrinkled areas, sagging skin – damage to
elastic fibers
 Looks older
Skin Care Products
 Cleansing Products
 To clean the skin surface and remove
makeup
 2 types:
 Milks
 Foaming
 Face wash – detergent type foaming
cleanser
 Neutral or slightly acidic pH
 Foaming action of bar soap
 Rinses off completely – leaving skin
feeling fresh, but slightly tight
 Oily – combination oily skin type
 Cuts excessive amounts of oil
 For acne-prone skin – an antimicrobial
agent is used to kill bacteria
 Danger of face wash is that it can over dry
the skin
 Cleansing Lotion
 Formulated to remove makeup and soil
 Water-based emulsion
 Cleansing Milks
 Non-foaming
 Dry and sensitive skin
 Must be removed with water (sponge, cloth
etc,)
 Foaming Cleansers
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Contain surfactants (detergents)
Combination and oiler skin types
Used quickly/easily in shower
Some have antibacterial ingredients
 Toners
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Astringents
Fresheners
Rebalance pH
Ingredients to help soothe or hydrate
May contain and exfoliants to remove dead
cell buildup
Stronger products
Higher alcohol content
Used for oilier type skin
Alcohol-free –sprayed onto face
Exfoliants
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Removal of dead cells from skin
Skin appears smoother and clearer
Help clear skin of clogged pores
Improve appearance of:
 Wrinkles
 Aging
 Hyperpigmentation
 Cosmetologists – remove dead cells from
Stratum Corneum
 Dermatologists/Surgeons – deeper,
surgical-level- peels
 Caution Box page 719
 Mechanical exfoliants – products used to
physically remove dead cell buildup
 Gommages - roll-off masks – peeling
creams that are rubbed off
 Microdermabrasion scrubs- contain
aluminum oxide crystals, with other
granular scrubs (mechanical exfoliants)
Chemical Exfoliants
 Contain chemicals the loosen or dissolve
dead cell buildup
 Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) – gentle
naturally occurring acids that remove
dead cell by dissolving the bonds and
intercellular cement between cells
 As dead cells are removed over time:
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Wrinkles appear less deep
Skin discoloration may fade
Clogged pores are loosened and reduced
New clogs are prevented
Skin is smoother
More hydrated
AHA Peels
 20% – 30% of AHA
 Client must use a 10% AHA product at
home for at least 2 weeks before salon
peel!
 AND using daily facial sunscreen
products
Enzyme Peels
 Keratolytic enzymes
 Protein-dissolving agents
 Dissolve the keratin protein in the surface
cells of the skin
 Made from plant-extracted enzymes from
papaya or pineapples or beef byproducts
2 Types of Enzyme Peels
 Cream-type enzyme peels (gommage) –
contain papaya
 Applied – dried – rolled off skin
 Powdered enzyme peel – mixed with
water – applied – removed with towels
 Does not dry the skin
 Used with a steamer
Proper Exfoliation may
improve skin’s appearance
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Reduces clogged pores and skin oiliness
Promotes skin smoothness
Increases moisture content & hydration
Reduces hyperpigmentation
Decreases uneven skin color
Eliminates/softens wrinkles and fine lines
Increases elasticity
 Proper exfoliation speeds up cell turnover
 Allows for deeper penetration of
treatment creams & serums
 Makeup applies more evenly
 Caution boxes page 720
Moisturizers
 Products that help increase moisture
content of skin surface
 Help diminish fine lines & wrinkles
 Mixtures
 Humectants/hydrators
 Water-binding agents – ingredients that
attract water
 Emollients – oily/fatty ingredients that
prevent moisture from leaving the skin
 Moisturizers – oily skin
 Lotion form
 Less emollients
 Moisturizers – dry skin
 Heavier cream
 More emollients
 Sensitive skin – soothing agents
 Aging skin – AHA
 Sunscreen
 Cautions boxes – page 721
Sunscreens & Day
Protection Products
 Shielding skin from sun exposure is
the most important habit to benefit the
skin
 Cumulative sun exposure causes the
majority of skin cancers and
prematurely ages the skin
 Use daily moisturizers that contain broadspectrum sunscreen – protects against
UVA & UVB
 SPF of 15 or higher
 SPF measures how long someone can
be exposed to the sun without burning
 Combination skin – lotions
 Oily skin – fluids
 Dry skin - creams
 Night treatments
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More intense
Design to treat specific skin problems
Heavier than day use products
Higher levels of conditioning ingredients
Serums
 Concentrated products
 Contain higher concentrations of
ingredients designed to penetrate skin
and treat various conditions
 Home use
 Applied under moisturizer/sunscreen
 Ampules – individual doses sealed in a
vial
Massage Creams
 Lubricants to make the skin slippery
during massage
 Contain oils or petrolatum
 Thoroughly remove during a facial –
prevents other products from penetrating
 Biggest benefit of massage is that it
increases product absorption – increases
conditioning effect of treatment products
Masks
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Masques
Concentrated treatment products
Composed of minerals clays
Moisturizing agents
Skin softeners
Aromatherapy oils
Botanical extracts
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Other ingredients to cleanse
Exfoliate
Tighten
Tone
Hydrate
Nourish
 Clay-based masks
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Oil-absorbing cleansing masks
Have an exfoliating & astringent effects
Oily & combination skin
Makes large pores temporarily appear
smaller
 soothing
 Antibacterial ingredients
 Cream masks
 Contain oils, emollients & humectants
 Strong moisturizing effect
 Dry skin
 Gel masks
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Sensitive or dehydrated skin
Do not dry hard
Contain hydrators & soothing agents
Help plump surface cells
Makes the skin look more supple & hydrated
 Alginate masks
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Seaweed based
Powder form mixed with water or serums
Dry to a rubberized texture
Treatment Cream – facilitates change in
skin’s appearance
 Or serum applied under mask
 Mask forms a seal that helps skin’s
absorption of serum or treatment cream
 Used only in salons
 Paraffin Wax Masks
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Melted at little more than body temperature
Cools to a candle-like texture
Applied over treatment cream & gauze
Eye pads may be applied to prevent wax
from getting on eyebrows & lashes
 Modelage masks
 Special crystals of gypsum – a plaster-like
ingredient
 Used with a treatment cream and gauze
 Mixed with cold water
 Apply ¼’ thick layer
 hardens
 Chemical reaction occurs
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Gradual increase to temperature of 105º
Gradually cools down
Setting time about 20 minutes
Follow mfg. directions
 Heat increases blood circulation
 Beneficial for dry, mature skin – looks dull &
lifeless
 Do not use on sensitive, capillary problems, oily
skin, blemishes
 Can be heavy on face
 Do not apply on lower neck
 Never use on clients with claustrophobia
 Use of Gauze
 Thin open-meshed fabric of loosely woven
cotton
 Holds ingredients onto face & keep from
sticking to hairs on face
Client Consultation
 Designate a quiet area
 Write down all necessary information
 Bulleted list pages 724
 Record
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Date
Type of service and/or treatment performed
Products used
Purchased products
 Recommend services and products to
benefit client
 Client will be disappointed in no
recommendations given
 They will go elsewhere
 Best results achieved if home care
regime is followed
 Perform a thorough analysis of client’s
skin
Facial Massage
 Massage Manual or mechanical manipulation of the
body by rubbing, gently pinching, kneading,
tapping, and other movements to increase
metabolism and circulation, promote
absorption, and relieve pain.
 Focus on – page 726
 Massage requires:
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Basic knowledge of anatomy and physiology
Firm sure touch
Flexible hands
Quiet temperament
Self-control
Keep hands soft
File and shape nails
Wrists and fingers flexible
Palms firm and warm
Basic Massage
Manipulations
 Each manipulation applied in a certain
way to achieve a certain end (result)
 Impact of treatment:
 Amount of pressure
 Direction of movement
 Duration of manipulation
 FYI – page 726
 Direction of movement
 Insertion to the origin
 Insertion
 Portion of the muscle at the more moveable
attachment
 Origin
 Portion of the muscle at the fixed attachment
 Massaging incorrectly
 Loss of resiliency
 Sagging of skin and muscles
Effleurage
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Light continuous stroking movement
Fingers – digital – small surfaces
Palms – palmar – large surfaces
Slow rhythmic
No pressure
Every massage begin and end
Soothing and relaxing effects
 Used on:
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Forehead
face
Scalp
Back
Shoulder
Neck
Chest
Arms
Hands
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Hold hand loosely
Keep wrists and fingers flexible
Curve fingers slightly
Cushions of fingers touching skin
Petrissage
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Kneading movement
Lifting, squeezing and pressing tissue
Light, firm pressure
Deeper stimulation to muscles, nerves
and glands
 Improves circulation
 Limited to back, shoulders, and arms
 Used on cheeks/jawline with light
pinching movements
 Pressure light but firm
 Movements must by rhythmic – never
jerky
 Fulling
 Tissue grasped firmly
 Lifted
 Spread out
Friction
 Deep rubbing movement
 Apply pressure with fingers/palm while
moving over an underlying structure
 Significant benefit
 circulation
 Glandular activity
 Scalp, arms, hands – heavier movements
 Face and neck – lighter circular
movements
 Chucking
 Grasping flesh firmly in one hand
 Move hand up and down along bone
 Rolling
 Pressing and twisting tissues in a fast back
and forth movement
 Wringing
 Hands placed on both sides of arm/leg
 Working downward
 Twisting motion against bones in the
opposite direction
Tapotement/Percussion
 Short quick tapping, slapping and
hacking movements
 Most stimulating
 Applied with care and discretion
 Tone muscles
 Impart a healthy glow to area being
massaged
 Facial
 Light digital tapping
 Fingers must be flexible to create an even
force over treated area
 Slapping
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Wrists flexible
Light, firm, rapid slapping
One hand follows the other
Lift flesh slightly
 Hacking
 Chopping movements
 Edges of hands
 Move alternately in fast, light, firm
movements
 Hacking and slapping used on:
 Back, shoulders, arms, legs
Vibration
 Rapid shaking of the body part
 Balls of fingers pressed firmly on point of
application
 Rapid muscular contraction
 Highly relaxing
 Applied over nerves and end of massage
 Stimulate blood circulation
 Increase muscle tone
Physiological Effects of
Massage
 Thorough knowledge of structures
involved
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Muscles
Nerves
Connective tissue
Blood vessels
 FYI - page 728
 Every muscle has a motor point
 Point on the skin over the muscle where
pressure or stimulation will cause
contraction of the muscle
 Location of motor points varies from
person to person
 Differences in body structure
 Relaxation is achieved
 Light, firm, slow rhythmic movements or
 Very slow, light hand vibrations over motor
points for a short time or
 Pause briefly over motor points
 Massage applied directly or indirectly
influences the structures and functions of
the body
 Immediate effects are first noticed on the
skin
 Area being treated shows increased:
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Circulation
Secretion
Nutrition
Excretion
 Benefits
 List page 729
 Frequency of massage depends:
 Condition of skin or scalp
 Age of the client
 Condition being treated
 General rule
 Weekly massage
 Accompanied by proper home care
Facial Manipulations
 Even tempo/rhythm - relaxation
 Do not remove hands from area being
treated
 Feather off
 Feather back on
 State Regulatory Alert - page 732
Facial Treatments
 Enjoyable and relaxing service
 Restful, stimulating experience
 Regular facials
 Noticeable improvement in skin tone
 Texture
 Appearance
 Preservative
 Maintains health of skin
 Corrective
 Correct skin conditions
 Treatments:
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Increase circulation
Activate glandular activity
Relax nerves
Maintain muscle tone
Strengthen weak muscle tissues
 Guidelines for facial treatments
 Page 737
 Inspect skin - Page 738
 Analysis determines:
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What products to use
Areas needing special attention
How much pressure to use
What equipment to use
Special Problems
 Dry Skin
 Insufficient flow of sebum
 Infra-red ray lights – (3 - 5 minutes)
 Milia - whiteheads
 Oily Skin
 Comedones – blackheads - hardened
masses of sebum formed in ducts of
sebaceous glands
Special notes for acneprone skin
 Acne
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Disorder of the sebaceous glands
Medical treatment
Work with doctor/dermatologist
Wear gloves – contains infectious matter
Acne medical care
 Follow physician’s instructions for type
and frequency of facials
 Help with extraction treatments
 Assist in choosing proper home care
products and make-up
 Help client understand how to coordinate
with home skin care program
 Hereditary
 Environmental factors
 Aggravated by:
 Emotional stress
 Faulty diet
Diet for Acne
 Foods high in: - tend to worsen condition
 Fat
 Starches
 sugars
 Recommended:
 Well balanced diet
 Drinking plenty of water
 Healthful personal hygiene
Special Notes for AcneProne Skin
 Unresponsive or severe cases – medical
attention
 Work with dermatologist
 Proper home care products and makeup
 Coordinate medications home care
program
 Topical medications - sensitive skin
more reactive
Consultation and Home
Care
 Most important factor in successful skin
care program
 Explain proper home care after first
treatment
 Focus –On pp. 739
Procedures
 Basic facial – 741 - 745
 Caution box page 594
 Dry Skin – 746 – 747
 Service tip – pp. 747
 Oily skin
 Pages 748 - 750
 Caution Box & Service Tips - 750
 Acne prone skin – pages 751 - 752
Aromatherapy
 Therapeutic use of plant aromas for
beauty and health treatment
 Improves efficacy of many skin care
preparations
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physical
Emotional
Mental
Spiritual well-being
 Cinnamon candle in winter – warm cozy
 Use oils lightly – tend to be overpowering
 Caution box page 740