Transcript The meaning of Scents for Life - home

The Meaning of
Scents For Life
Laurence Fanuel
Perfumer - Ph.D in Biochemistry - @Takasago
Experiencing
the 5 senses
Perceive the present,
the time
and the place...
To Be or not To Be Alive?
« I think » (Descartes)
-> I live in my neo-cortex
(more rationale brain)
-> logical thoughts
-> am I connected to reality?
« I feel » - I use my 5 senses
-> I live in my body
-> my senses to my limbic brain
-> instincts and emotions
-> analysed by my neo-cortex
-> more « real life »
Matrix:
distinguishing
illusion from
truth
Consciously connect sensations to
brain to perceive true reality, not a movie
The 5 senses and the art of acting
• Empathy = if the situation looks «true»
• «true» Situation = if 5 senses congruency
• Congruent message = if the actor uses his 5
senses
• 93% of the communication is not verbal
-> body messages and text have to be
congruent!
Ref:
Theater: C.Stanislavski, J.Grotowski,
P.Brook, J.Lecoq
Psychology: Prof. Mehrabian
The 5 senses, emotions
and memories
• Memory = a stored emotion
• Emotion + Sensations are recorded
• One of the sensations can recall the
memory quickly
• Olfactive memories last for years vs.
months for visual memories
• Best memories (cutural): 5 years old, 18
years old
The 5 senses for survival
This is where we have been co-evolving
with nature for thousand of years! Strong link to nature
Smelling is the first way to sense food,
predators and environment for survival ,
reproduction and protection!
But…
But Survival…
Requires combination of Senses
Example:
Smelling and seeing...
• Human = 350 active receptors vs. 1000 for
dogs
• Human started to lose active receptors
when getting 3D vision = survival
• Fewer receptors = detecting less molecules
-> the human brain rather identifies
combination of molecules
Smelling …
Smelling is...
The main sense for life…
• The first sense formed in the embryo (1115 weeks)
• Concerns 2 of the 5 senses
• Detects chemicals in the outside world
• = 1% of the human gene library, big!
• Linked to breath!!! You can survive only
few minutes without oxygen
• Brain activity can be synchronised with
breath
• Direct link to the limbic system
-> direct emotional and
physiological reactions
Smelling and well-being
Psychological effects
memory activation
(Aromachology)indirectly affects
physiology
Physiological effects
interaction with body
receptors (genetic
influence)
(Aromatherapy)
Smelling has...
Positive impact on mood
Subconscious memories of life linked to good
physiological and psychological experience,
cultural, familial, personal
…
Smelling has...
Negative impact on mood
Subconscious memories stored with
discomfort or pain, physical or psychological
Smelling has...
In Short…
Smelling has
conscious and
unconscious
effects, that still
have to be
understood
today….
Olfaction is a powerful sense!
Smelling is...
Smelling is
finally a
personal
emotion for an
ART form
ART
A Combination of elements exciting
the senses,
triggering emotions
stimulating thoughts
Mixes a personal vision
& a technical know-how
The 5 senses and ART
Are « officially» Arts:
1st:Architecture
2d: Sculpture
3d: Painting
4th: Music
5th: Poetry
6th: danse, mime, theater, circus (living arts)
7th: Cinema
8th: Radio, television, photography (media arts)
9th: Comics drawing
Perfumery? Cooking?
However perfumery also uses…
•Overdose
•Un-expected mixes
•Texturing
•A choice is made
to create a
Signature
THE ART of Perfumery
A new smell can mean danger!
A new smell needs to become friendly
to feel good with it!
Therefore the context in which it is
presented is very importantCongruency, congruency!!!!
Inspiration for CREATIVITY
– Places, personal vision of the world
– A beautiful or intriguing material
– Other arts
– Products, all sorts
– Natural scents, cooking
– Competitor products
– Fine fragrances
– The past
– Passion for mixing unexpected things
Creativity but also ….
• Market data
• Product data
• Scientific data
• Safety data
• Cost
• Fashion/ Trends
• Consumer test
• Emotions
Perfumery or alchemy ?
Creating a smell
An odor character
interaction with cell receptors
and brain analysis
(107 olfactory sensory neurons)
Nobel Prize 2004
A sensation on nose
internal mucosa
trigeminal nerve , Air flow,
Temperature/ freshness, Pain
(a “touch” effect)- protection
Perfume Components
– A complex mixture
– natural & synthetic
– may contain hundreds components
– many different classes of chemicals
– depending on volatility: Top, middle, Base notes
to adapt to products
O
H
O
Aldehydes
(Ligustral)
OH
O
Lactones
(g-decalactone)
CH 3
O
H
Alcohol
(Linalool)
Ethers
(Ambrox)
Blending components
• Mix first only few molecules to create a
new smell
• Start with an overdose of a desired
ingredient, and dress it up
• Combine molecules you would have
never mixed
• Looking at existing formulations to get
inspirations
• Start from analysis of living things
Is overdose signature in danger?
Today overdose is very risky!
Regulation (IFRA, REACH..)
-> component limited or banned
-> fragrance character collaps if overdose!
Chemicals
But also naturals
Selling innovative smells:
Holistic Product Design
Create congruency for simplicity, easy
choice and trust
•Concept
•Fragrance
•Pack design/Images
•Color
•Sound
•Touch/ weight
•Story
•Material used
•Newness vs. old
If all emotional attributes synergise
-> strong emotions
-> consumer projection with the product
-> high product believability & congruency
-> pleasure while using, trust, loyalty and improved quality
of life
Smelling and quality of life
in Future megacities
• Urban population : 3.2 billion
today to 5 billion by 2030
• 3 out of 5 people will be urban,
mainly in developing countries
• A megacity = > 10 million
• 14 megacities in 1995; -> 25 in
2015
• Living in megacities =
disconnected from nature +
pollution
Air and smell management will be
a futur need !
Demographia World Urban Areas
...Perfumes to...
Bring a bit of
nature &
dream
everywhere we
are
Thank you for connecting your senses!