Transcript Permanent Waving - Cengage Learning

Milady Standard Cosmetology
Chemical Texture Services
© 2012 Milady, a part of Cengage Learning
The Structure of Hair
• Cuticle: Tough
exterior layer of hair.
• Cortex: Middle layer
of hair.
• Medulla: Innermost
layer of the hair, often
called pith or core of
the hair.
The Structure of Hair
Importance of pH in Texture Services
• pH scale: Measures
acidity and alkalinity
of a substance by
measuring the
quantity of hydrogen
ions it contains.
• Natural pH of hair is
between 4.5 and 5.5.
• Chemical texturizers:
Raise the pH of the
hair to an alkaline
state in order to
soften and swell the
hair shaft.
The Structure of Hair
Basic Building Blocks of Hair
• Amino acids
• Peptide bonds (end
bonds)
• Polypeptide chains
• Keratin proteins
The Structure of Hair
Basic Building Blocks of Hair
• Side bonds
• Disulfide bonds
• Salt bonds
• Hydrogen bonds
Permanent Waving
• Permanent waving:
Two-step process
whereby hair
undergoes a physical
change chemical
change.
– Always perform an
elasticity test before
perming hair.
Permanent Waving
Perm Wrap
• Perm wrap: Wet set
on perm rods instead
of rollers.
• Shape and type of
curl are determined
by shape and type of
rod and wrapping
method used.
Permanent Waving
Types of Rods
• Concave rod
• Straight rod
• Soft bender rod
• Loop rod (circle rod)
Permanent Waving
End Papers
• End papers: Also end
wraps; absorbent
papers used to
control ends of hair
when wrapping and
winding hair on perm
rods.
– Double flat wrap
– Single flat wrap
– Bookend wrap
Permanent Waving
Sectioning for a Perm
• All perm wraps begin
by sectioning the hair
into panels.
• Base sections:
Subsections of panels
into which the hair is
divided for perm
wrapping.
Permanent Waving
Base Placement
• Base placement:
Refers to position of
rod in relation to its
base section.
– On-base placement
– Half off-base placement
– Off-base placement
Permanent Waving
Base Direction
• Base direction: Refers
to angle at which rod
is positioned on head:
horizontally, vertically,
or diagonally.
Permanent Waving
Wrapping Techniques
• Croquignole perm
wrap
• Spiral perm wrap
• Double-rod wrap
(piggyback wrap)
Permanent Waving
The Chemistry of Permanent Waving
• Alkaline permanent
waving solutions
soften and swell the
hair, opening cuticle
and permitting
solution to penetrate
into cortex.
Permanent Waving
Reduction Reaction
• In the cortex, waving
solution breaks
disulfide bonds
through reduction.
• Reduction reaction in
permanent waving is
due to the addition of
hydrogen.
• Thioglycolic acid: Most
common reducing
agent in permanent
wave solutions.
• Ammonium
thioglycolate (ATG):
Active ingredient or
reducing agent in
alkaline permanents.
Permanent Waving
Types of Permanent Waves
• Alkaline waves or cold
waves
• Acid waves
• True acid waves
• Acid-balanced waves
• Exothermic waves
• Endothermic waves
• Ammonia-free waves
• Thio-free waves
• Low-pH waves
Permanent Waving
Selecting the Right Type of Perm
• Overprocessed hair
• Underprocessed hair
• Thio neutralization:
Stops action of
waving solution and
rebuilds hair into its
new curly form.
Permanent Waving
Permanent Waving Procedures
• Preliminary test curls
• Wrapping patterns
– Basic permanent wrap
(straight set wrap)
– Curvature permanent
wrap
– Bricklay permanent
wrap
– Weave technique
• Partial perms
Permanent Waving
Perms for Men/Safety Precautions for Permanent Waving
• Male clients are
looking for the
texture, fullness,
style, and low
maintenance a perm
provides.
• Perm safety
– Protect client’s
clothing.
– Do not give to clients
who have had allergic
reactions.
– Examine scalp before
service.
– Do not perm damaged
or relaxed hair.
Permanent Waving
Safety Precautions/Metallic Salts
• Perm safety (cont.)
– Test for metallic salts.
– Use a barrier cream.
– Follow manufacturer’s
guidelines.
– Keep waving lotion
away from client’s
eyes.
– Wear gloves.
– Do not safe leftover
solutions.
• Some home
haircoloring products
contain metallic salts
that are not
compatible with
permanent waving.
– Test for metallic salts
before perming.
Chemical Hair Relaxers
Extremely Curly Hair
• Chemical hair relaxing:
Process or service that
rearranges the structure
of curly hair into a
straighter or smoother
form.
• Extremely curly hair
grows in long twisted
spirals, or coils.
Chemical Hair Relaxers
Thio Relaxers/Japanese Thermal Straighteners
• Thio relaxers: Use
same ATG used in
permanent waving,
but at a higher
concentration and
higher pH.
• Japanese thermal
straighteners: Also
thermal reconditioning
or TR; combines use
of a thio relaxer with
flat ironing.
Chemical Hair Relaxers
Hydroxide Relaxers
• Hydroxide relaxers:
Very strong alkalis
with a pH over 13.
• Lanthionization:
Process by which
hydroxide relaxers
permanently
straighten hair.
• Types:
– Metal hydroxide
relaxers
– Lye-based relaxers
– No-lye relaxers
Chemical Hair Relaxers
Low-pH Relaxers/Base and No-Base Relaxers
• Sulfites and bisulfites
• Base relaxers:
are sometimes used
Require application of
as low-pH hair
protective base cream
relaxers.
to entire scalp prior to
application of relaxer.
• Base cream: Also
protective base cream; • No-base relaxers: Do
oily cream used to
not require application
protect skin and scalp
of protective base
during hair relaxing.
cream.
Chemical Hair Relaxers
Relaxer Strengths
• Chemical hair
relaxers are available
in three strengths:
mild, regular, and
super.
• Periodic strand
testing during
processing will help
you tell when the hair
is sufficiently relaxed.
Chemical Hair Relaxers
Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures
• Virgin relaxer
application: Used for
hair that has not had
previous chemical
texture services.
• Retouch relaxer
application: Used for
hair that has had
previous chemical
texture services.
• Texturizing or
retexturizing service:
Uses a hydroxide
relaxer to reduce curl
pattern by degrees.
• Normalizing lotions:
Conditioners that
restore hair’s natural
pH after a hydroxide
relaxer.
Chemical Hair Relaxers
Keratin Straightening Treatments
• Keratin straightening
treatments: Contain
silicone polymers and
formalin, or similar
ingredients, which
release formaldehyde
gas when heated to
high temperatures.
– Eliminate up to 95
percent of frizz and
curl and last three to
five months.
– Not usually
appropriate for
extremely curly, tightly
coiled hair.
Curl Re-Forming (Soft Curl Permanents)
Safety Precautions for Hair Relaxing and Curl Re-Forming
• Soft curl permanent:
Combination of thio
relaxer and thio
permanent wrapped
on large rods to make
existing curl larger
and looser.
• Safety:
– Perform a consultation and
hair analysis.
– Examine the scalp for
abrasions.
– Keep accurate client
records.
– Have client sign a release.
– Do not apply hydroxide
relaxer on hair previously
treated with a thio relaxer.
Curl Re-Forming (Soft Curl Permanents)
Safety Precautions
• Safety (cont.)
– Do not apply thio relaxer or soft
curl perm on hair that has been
treated with hydroxide relaxer.
– Do not chemically relax hair that
has been treated with a metallic
dye.
– Do not relax damaged hair.
– Do not shampoo prior to
application of hydroxide relaxer
(scalp must be dry).
– Apply protective base cream.
– Wear gloves.
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Protect client’s eyes.
Perform strand tests.
Avoid scratching the scalp.
Do not attempt to remove more
than 80 percent of natural curl.
Thoroughly rinse chemical
relaxer from hair.
Use normalizing lotion and
neutralizing shampoo.
Use conditioner and wide-tooth
comb.
Do not use hot irons or excessive
heat on chemically relaxed hair.