Transcript Indonesian Dress

TEXTILE ARTS
•Objects constructed using fibres that are
aesthetic or functional .
•Textile art is the creation of textiles or creation
with textiles.
A fibre is a unit of matter that is at least 100
times longer than it is thick
Factors that influence the textile
arts of a country
•Traditions
•Religion
•Climate and Geographic location
•Landform
•Availability of resources and environment
•Technology improvements
•Social status
•Living standards and economy
•Tourism
•Government policies
•Social change eg war, emancipation of women
•Peer pressure
•Consumer needs and wants
Indonesia
• 17,508 islands
• On the equator, average temperature 27
• two seasons– wet (October and April is low season),
and dry, there are no extremes of winter and summer.
Indonesian Dress
Kemben- is a long narrow strip of batik
cloth, tightly wound around the chest and
left the shoulder bare.
Kebaya
Stagen or belt
Sarongsewn
together
Songket silk
Kain
panjang- if
left unsewn
& longer
Men’s Clothing
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Jarit or Bebed
Men kain panjang, tightened with
stagen.
Surjan
Men traditional long sleeved shirt
and the material is not batik.
Beskap
Instead of wearing surjan, the men
wear a coat, the materials is not
batik.
Blangkon
It is a headgear made from batik.
Keris
The dagger is worn at backside of
the waist, as a compliment to the
dress.
Kemben- cloth worn tightly around
chest
Selendeng- shawl
•Similar in size and
shape to the kemben.
•Highly functional piece
of cloth which can be
draped around the
head in various ways.
•Most women in Java
wear selendang so that
they can carry personal
objects
Sarong with kebaya – long
sleeve jacket
Ikat kepala or Headcloth is usually worn
by men at formal
occasions. The ikat
head cloth can be tied
in a various ways to
form a turban. At one
time you could tell
the rank of a man in
Indonesia by the way
he wore his turban.
Selendang
around neck
Indonesian Clothing
Sarong
Kebaya
Stagen
(belt)
Kemben
Fibres Used
• Tapa fibre and
beater
Cotton
Jute
Pineapple
Fibre
Palm Leaf
Coir from
coconut
husks
Silk
Songket Silk- gold and silver
threads are woven into the
cloth to create complex motifs
of birds, butterflies and
flowers.
Batik Tulis (write)
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Resist Dyeing Technique
Tjanting (canting) used with wax
Is produced by women
Cotton or silk fibres used
Batik wax is a mix of beeswax and paraffin, Beeswax is soft, pliable,
and blocks completely, no cracking. Paraffin is more brittle, and lets
dye penetrate wherever cracks form.
Cap
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Creating batik is a very time
consuming craft so in 19th
century the cap. (copper stamp
- pronounced chop) was
developed. This invention
enabled a higher volume of
batik production
• Men usually used the cap
• Each cap is a copper block that
makes up a design unit.
Batik designs
There is two main kind of batik designs:
geometric and free form.
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Kawung is a very old design consisting of intersecting circles,
known in Java
Ceplok is a general name for a
whole series of geometric designs
based on squares, rhombs, circles,
stars, etc. Although fundamentally
geometric, ceplok can also represent
abstractions and stylisation of
flowers, buds, seeds and even
animals.
Parang was once used exclusively by the royal courts of Central Java.
The Hindus introduced the sacred bird - Garuda, the sacred flower lotus, the dragon - Naga and the tree of life. Islam, since it forbids
the depiction of humans or animals, brought stylized and modified
ornaments as symbols, i.e., flowers and geometric designs.
Ikat Weaving
Backstrap
loom
Weft Ikat weavingweft threads are
dyed to create the
design and then
woven with plain
warp threads.
These cloths are
recognisable by
their abstract
designs and bright
colours.
Geringsing, or double-ikat
weaving is the most sought
after. This is when both the
warp and weft threads are
dyed to their final designs
before being woven together
Ikat cotton
threads
Dyes
• Traditional colours for Central Javanese
batik were made from natural ingredients
and consisted primarily of beige, blue,
brown and black.
• The oldest colour used in traditional batik
was blue. The colour was from the leaves of
the Indigo plant.
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In traditional batik, the second colour
applied was a brown colour called soga. The
colour could range from light yellow to a
dark brown. The dye came from the bark of
the Soga tree.
• Another colour that was traditionally used
was a dark red colour called mengkuda.
This dye was created from the leaves of the
Morinda Citrifolia.
Men usually did
the dyeing
process, and
dances or
ceremonies were
performed to
ensure a
successful result.
Wedding dress
•Certain batik
designs are
reserved for
brides and
bridegrooms
•Some
designs are
reserved for
the Sultan
and his family
or their
attendants.
•A person's
rank could be
determined
by the pattern
of the batik
worn.
Masks
Purification
Ceremony
Cremation
Cultural ceremony
Blessing Ceremony
Kites
Today
• Modern batik uses lines of leaves,
flowers and birds.
• No longer dependent on traditional
(natural) dyes, as chemical dyes can
produce any colour that they wish to
achieve.
• Modern batik still uses canting and cap
to create intricate designs
• Modern styles of clothing and
furnishings use batik.
• Use man made fibres
• Use automated machinery to weave
fabrics
Wayang Puppet
• Made from leather
• From Java