Transcript The Glimpse of Chinese Culture

A Glimpse of Chinese Culture
Chapter 10
Dress and Adornment Culture
本章教学的目的
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1. 介绍中国服饰发展概况
2. 了解中国传统服饰及布料
3. 了解少数民族服饰
本章教学的重难点
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1. 中国服装发展史
2. 中国传统服饰及布料
3. 少数民族服饰介绍
本章教学的时间安排
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教师课堂讲解(60 minutes)
1. The development of Chinese clothing (30
minutes)
2. Chinese clothing fabric (5 minutes )
3.Typical Chinese costumes (15 minutes)
4. Ethnic Attire (10 minutes)
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讨论 (10 minutes)
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学生课件展示 (30 minutes)
The Development of Chinese
Clothing
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For thousands of years, generations of
clothing designers and garment makers in
China have devoted themselves to building
the “Garment Kingdom”, making the
garments that cover the human body an
important component of Chinese culture.
Origin of Chinese Clothing
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In primitive society, the
Chinese lived in caves. To
keep warm, they covered
themselves with natural
materials like leaves,
grasses and animal furs.
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The invention of sewing allowed the early
Chinese to make better fitting clothes to
protect them from harsh conditions, thus
assisting them in their adaptability and
consequently resulting in the expansion of
their territories and an increase in their
productivity.
Development of Clothing
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As early as the Zhou
Dynasty, garments were
already classified into
sacrificial attire, court
attire, army uniform,
mourning attire and
wedding attire.
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The tradition was broken
during the Spring and
Autumn and the Warring
States period when the
idea of fashion reached
new heights.
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The Qin and Han
dynasties witnessed
the unification of
China and its written
language.
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Chinese clothing
developed rapidly during
the Wei, Jin, and Southern
and Northern dynasties.
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During the Sui Dynasty,
all poor people had to
wear black and blue
clothes, and only the rich
people could wear other
colors.
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In the Tang Dynasty,
clothing was more varied
than before because the
state was more open to
the outside world.
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Casual wear appeared
during the Song Dynasty,
and clothes were simple
and elegant. But during
this dynasty, it became
fashionable for women to
bind their feet in order to
keep them small.
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During the Yuan Dynasty,
the Mongolian ethnic
group, known as the
people on horseback, was
in power. The simple and
unadorned (朴素的) style
of clothing was mainly a
combination of
Mongolian and Han
influences.
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Dramatic changes took
place during the Ming
Dynasty. There was no
limitation to one style and
natural beauty was
advocated, thus bringing
vigor and vitality to clothing
culture.
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During the Qing
Dynasty, clothes
became elegant and
poised (威严的).
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Chinese garments of the 20th century
ranged greatly in style and included the
qipao, Chinese tunic suit, student uniform,
Lenin-style suit, Russian dress, miniskirt,
bikini, punk (怪异服装) and T-shirt.
Chinese Clothing Fabric
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Silk and the Silk Road
Embroidery
Batik
Silk and the Silk Road
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Being a Chinese invention, silk was produced
and used only in China for a long period of
time. During the Tang Dynasty, 30 percent of
the trade was silk. It has a look and feeling of
richness that no other fabric can match.
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A romantic legend about the discovery of
silk.
(key words) Emperor Huang’s reign in the
30th Century BC ; a father ;his daughter; a
magic horse; a promise: if the horse could
find her father, she would marry it; killed
the innocent horse; a miracle; silkworm (蚕);
she wept long and thin silken threads;
missing her father
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The business of raising
silkworms and unwinding
cocoons is known as silk
culture or sericulture (养蚕
业). A man’s necktie needs
raw silk from 111 cocoons,
and a woman’s blouse from
630 cocoons.
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Suzhou is the generally recognized home of
Chinese silk or the silk capital of China. The
large range of Suzhou silk, long known for
its quality and beauty, finds a brisk market
in more than 100 countries and regions
around the world.
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The Silk Road
The Silk Road was the main trade route running
through Asia in ancient times. It started from the
Weishui Valley (渭水流域) in the east and ended
on the east coast of the Mediterranean (地中海),
from where it led to various places around Europe.
From the Western Han Dynasty on, China’s silk
was exported via this route to the West, and thus a
closer link between China and the West was
formed, and cultural exchanges and friendly visits
were promoted.
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Through the silk trade, Chinese garment
design and style had its greatest impact on
the rest of the world. Conversely, garments,
crafts and styles of other countries had their
own profound influence on Chinese
garments as well.
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Although the ancient Silk Road has lost its
original function, the numerous relics along
the way still attract many tourists.
Embroidery (刺绣)
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Embroidery is a traditional Chinese
handicraft featuring flowers, birds and
scenery on silk or other cloth in colored silk
threads. Chinese embroidery dates back
over 3,000 years. It has distinct regional and
ethnic characteristics.
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Embroidery in China includes:
Shu Embroidery (蜀绣) from Sichuan,
 Su Embroidery (苏绣) from Suzhou,
 Xiang Embroidery (湘绣) from Hunan
 Yue Embroidery (粤绣) from Guangdong.
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Shu embroidery is famous for its simplicity.
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Su for its extremely
delicate stitches.
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Xiang for its rich
colors.
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Yue for its complicated patterns.
Batik
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Batik or wax printing is a traditional Chinese
folk art, which combines painting and dying.
It presents a variety of ethnic styles and is
most popular among the Buyi, the Miao and
the Yao ethnic groups.
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Batik involves painstaking work but follows a
rather simple process. First, beeswax (黄腊) is
melted in a bowl. Then a special brass knife is
used to spread some of the liquid wax onto a
cotton cloth forming patterns as it hardens. The
cloth is immersed (浸入) completely into a jar of
indigo (靛蓝染料) with the unwaxed cloth taking
on color. The dyed cloth is boiled to melt off the
wax, leaving clear white patterns on a blue
background.
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Batik cloth can be made
into garments, scarves,
kerchiefs, bags, tablecloths, bedspreads,
curtains, and other
decorative items.
Typical Chinese Costumes
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Chinese Tunic Suit
Chinese Cheongsam (qipao)
The Tang Costume
Chinese Tunic Suit
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The Chinese Tunic Suit or
zhongshanzhuang was a uniform that Dr.
Sun Yat-sen liked to wear and also
recommended to the people of the country
to wear.
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a tunic with four pockets
and a turndown collar,
secured with five central
buttons.
Chinese Cheongsam (qipao)
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The cheongsam is a classic dress for
Chinese women with the elaborate elegance
of Chinese traditional style. It enjoys a
growing popularity in the international
world of high fashion.
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The cheongsam is easy and comfortable to
wear, snugly fitting the female Chinese
figure. Its neckline is high, collar closed,
and its sleeves may be short, medium or full
length, depending on the season or the
wearer’s taste. The dress is buttoned on the
right side, with a loose bodice, a fitted waist,
and side-slits to the hem, all of which
combine to set off the beauty of the
female’s figure.
The Tang Costume
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Like the Cheongsam, the Tang costume is
another representative of Chinese national
costumes. It derived its name not just
because its designers got inspirations from
the costumes of the Tang Dynasty but also
because the Tang Dynasty was a prosperous
period in Chinese history.
Ethnic Attire
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The ethnic groups of China have produced
fanciful, colorful costumes with distinctive
styles and stunning ornamental accessories.
Because of the use of costly materials,
delicate craftsmanship, and various styles
and exquisite patterns, Chinese ethnic attire
is a rich costume treasury.
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Tibetan robe (zangpao)
 It is loose fitting with
long sleeves and a
wider-than-usual waist.
The front opens from
the right side.
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When a Tibetan man
dresses, he tends to wear
only one sleeve of the robe
and pulls the other sleeve
around his back to the
front. It is a habit that has
much to do with the
weather.
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Women’s clothes are quite
similar, but their dresses are
even more colorful. The loose
garment from the collar down
is open on a slant to show the
silk blouse inside. Each woman
combines her dress with a
beautiful shawl draped over her
shoulders and a colorful apron
around her waist.
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Miao-style silver jewelry
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When a girl is born into
a Miao family, her
parents save on food and
expenses so as to
purchase a complete set
of silver jewelry for her.
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The set, 15 kg in total weight, includes a
crown, horns, earrings, neckband, chest
plaque (胸章), clothing ornament,
waistband, and bracelets. It takes more than
one hour for a young woman to dress in all
this silver and finish her makeup.
Other Ethnic Costumes
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The Bai people are
drawn to white in their
garments. Men wear
white shirts while
women's clothing differs
from place to place.
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The Uygur men often
wear an unbuttoned robe
over their shirt with
square webbing tied
around their waist. The
Uygur women like fresh
and brightly colored
clothes.
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Zhuang women wear collarless,
embroidered and trimmed jackets
buttoned to the left together with
baggy trousers, embroidered belts
and shoes, and pleated skirts.
They often bind their heads with
black cloth. The men wear long
collarless clothes or short shirts,
long trousers with girdles.
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More ethnic attires for you to
appreciate
Discussion
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What kind of clothes do you like? Describe a
type of clothing you think is very nice.
The Presentation of Students’ PPT
(30 minutes)
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Group 1
 Title :
 Participants:
 Presenter:
 Time : 10 minutes
 Comments: 5
minutes
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Group 2
 Title :
 Participants:
 Presenter:
 Time : 10 minutes
 Comments: 5
minutes
Exercises
 Discussion
topic for next class:
Which do you prefer, a modern
villa or a Beijing quadrangle? Why?