Transcript Amy Myrdal Miller, MS, RDN, FAND Guy Crosby, PhD, CFS

Session #154: Sunday, October 16, 2016 | 3:30-5:00 p.m. | Room 205ABC
Delicious Plant-Based Dietary Guidance:
Food Science & Culinary Strategy
Moderator: Sanna Delmonico, MS, RDN
Presenters: Amy Myrdal Miller, MS, RDN, FAND and Guy Crosby, PhD, CFS
Disclosures
Amy Myrdal Miller, MS, RDN, FAND
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Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics Foundation – honoraria for speaking
American Beverage Association – consultant
California Leafy Greens Marketing Agreement – consultant
The Culinary Institute of America – consultant
Dairy MAX – consultant
Florida Department of Citrus - consultant
Great Valley Publishing Company – blogger, honoraria for speaking
Monsanto Company – consultant
Monsanto Company – L.E.A.D. Network Member
Mushroom Council – consultant/research funding
National Dairy Council – Ambassador, honoraria for speaking
Naturipe® Farms – consultant
Northarvest Bean Growers Association – consultant
Northern California Golden Arches Association – consultant
Produce Business / Phoenix Media Network – consultant/contributor
Produce Marketing Association – honoraria for speaking
Southeast United Dairy Industry Association, Inc. – honoraria for speaking
University of California, Davis Honey and Pollination Center – honoraria for speaking
Learning Outcomes
After this presentation, the attendee should be able to:
• Describe dietary patterns associated with lower risk of
chronic diseases, especially coronary heart disease.
• Discuss cooking methods and flavor development
techniques that enhance the flavor and appeal of
vegetables.
• Utilize recipe development strategies that promote
optimal nutrient content, flavor, and appeal of plantbased dishes.
U.S. Dietary Intakes Compared to Recommendations
Percent of the U.S. Population Ages 1 Year and Older Who Are Below, At, or Above Each Dietary Goal or Limit
Source: https://health.gov/dietaryguidelines/2015/guidelines/chapter-2/current-eating-patterns-in-the-united-states/#figure-2-1
Vegetable Intake in the U.S.
Source: https://health.gov/dietaryguidelines/2015/guidelines/chapter-2/a-closer-look-at-current-intakes-and-recommended-shifts/#figure-2-3
Dark Green Vegetable Intake in the U.S.
Source: https://health.gov/dietaryguidelines/2015/guidelines/chapter-2/a-closer-look-at-current-intakes-and-recommended-shifts/#figure-2-4
Legume Intake in the U.S.
Source: https://health.gov/dietaryguidelines/2015/guidelines/chapter-2/a-closer-look-at-current-intakes-and-recommended-shifts/#figure-2-4
2015-2020 Dietary Guidelines
• Follow a healthy eating pattern across the lifespan. All food and beverage
choices matter. Choose a healthy eating pattern at an appropriate calorie
level to help achieve and maintain a healthy body weight, support nutrient
adequacy, and reduce the risk of chronic disease.
• Focus on variety, nutrient density, and amount. To meet nutrient needs
within calorie limits, choose a variety of nutrient-dense foods across and
within all food groups in recommended amounts.
• Limit calories from added sugars and saturated fats and reduce sodium
intake. Consume an eating pattern low in added sugars, saturated fats, and
sodium. Cut back on foods and beverages higher in these components to
amounts that fit within healthy eating patterns.
• Shift to healthier food and beverage choices. Choose nutrient-dense foods
and beverages across and within all food groups in place of less healthy
choices. Consider cultural and personal preferences to make these shifts
easier to accomplish and maintain.
• Support healthy eating patterns for all. Everyone has a role in helping to
create and support healthy eating patterns in multiple settings nationwide,
from home to school to work to communities.
Plant-Based Dietary Patterns
1. Healthy U.S. Style
Eating Pattern
2. Healthy
Mediterranean
Style Pattern
3. Healthy Vegetarian
Pattern
A Nutrition-by-Numbers Comparison of Three Plant-Based Diets
Okinawan
Diet 1
DASH
Diet 2
Mediterranean
Diet 3
Carbohydrate (% kcal)
85%
55%
43%
Protein (% kcal)
9%
18%
13%
Total Fat (% kcal)
6%
27%
42%
2%
6%
9%
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72 mg
75 mg
Sodium (mg/day)
1,113 mg
1,150 mg
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Potassium (mg/day)
5,199 mg
4,700 mg
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Saturated Fat (% kcal)
Cholesterol (mg/1000 kcal)
1 – Willcox, NYAS, 2007 | 2 – Sacks, NEJM, 2001 | 3 – Kromhout, AJCN, 1989
What does these patterns have in common?
Food Group
Healthy U.S.-Style
2,000 Calories/Day
Mediterranean-Style
2,000 Calories/Day
Vegetarian
2,000 Calories/Day
2 ½ c-eq/day
2 ½ c-eq/day
2 ½ c-eq/day
Dark green vegetables (cup equivalents/week)
1 ½ c-eq/week
1 ½ c-eq/week
1 ½ c-eq/week
Red and orange veg (cup equivalents/week)
5 ½ c-eq/week
5 ½ c-eq/week
5 ½ c-eq/week
Legumes (beans and peas) (cup equivalents/week)
1 ½ c-eq/week
1 ½ c-eq/week
1 ½ c-eq/week
Starchy vegetables (cup equivalents/week)
5 c-eq/week
5 c-eq/week
5 c-eq/week
Other vegetables (cup equivalents/week)
4 c-eq/week
4 c-eq/week
4 c-eq/week
Fruits (cup equivalents/day)
2 c-eq/day
2 ½ c-eq/day
2 c-eq/day
Grains (ounce equivalents/day)
6 oz-eq/day
6 oz-eq/day
6 ½ oz-eq/day
Whole grains
3 oz-eq/day
3 oz-eq/day
3 ½ oz-eq/day
Refined grains
3 oz-eq/day
3 oz-eq/day
3 oz-eq/day
3 c-eq/day
2 c-eq/day
3 c-eq/day
5 ½ oz-eq/day
6 ½ oz-eq/day
3 ½ oz-eq/day
Vegetables (cup equivalents/day)
Dairy (cup equivalents/day)
Protein Foods (ounce equivalents/day)
Eggs (ounce equivalents/week)
Seafood (ounce equivalents/week)
Meats, poultry, eggs (ounce equivalents/week)
3 oz-eq/week
8 oz-eq/week
15 oz-eq/week
26 oz-eq/week
26 oz-eq/week
Legumes (beans and peas) (ounce equivalents/week)
Nuts, seeds, soy products (ounce equivalents/week)
6 oz-eq/week
5 oz-eq/week
5 oz-eq/week
Soy products (ounce equivalents/week)
Oils (teaspoons/day)
8 oz-eq/week
~ 7 tsp./day
~ 7 tsp./day
~ 7 tsp./day
Applying the 2015-2020 Dietary Guidelines
• How can we reduce
intake of saturated fat
and sodium without
impacting liking?
• How can we increase
liking and consumption
of vegetables, especially
dark green--and often
bitter--vegetables?
• How can we increase
liking and consumption
of legumes?
How can we motivate
people to eat less meat
and more vegetables?
Using Mushrooms to Improve the
Nutrition Properties and Consumer
Appeal of Popular Meat-based Dishes
Principal Investigators
Jean-Xavier Guinard, PhD, University of California, Davis
Amy Myrdal Miller, MS, RDN, FAND, (formerly of) The Culinary Institute of America
Research Funders
Mushroom Council and Australian Mushroom Growers Association
Research Hypothesis
• Because of their flavor-enhancing umami
properties, mushrooms can be used as a
healthy substitute for meat and a mitigating
agent for sodium reduction without loss of
overall flavor and/or reduction in sensory
acceptability.
What effect does cooking technique have
on the flavor of mushrooms?
Sensory Evaluation: Descriptive Analysis
• 13 trained sensory panelists described the sensory
attributes of four mushrooms cooked in various
ways.
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Steamed
Sautéed
Seared
Oven-roasted
Sensory Attributes of Cooked Mushrooms
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Overall aroma
Overall flavor
Raw mushroom
Moss/wet soil
Earthy
Nutty
Buttery
Yeasty
Rancid/stale oil
Smoky
Caramelized
Burnt/charred
Toasted/roasted
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Cardboard/paper
Salty
Umami
Bitter
Sour
Sweet
Astringent
Oily/Greasy
Moist/juicy
Chewy
Crispy/Crunchy
Soft-hard
Rubbery/spongy
The Maillard reaction increases umami properties
and enhances flavor and aroma.
Seared Mushrooms
Sautéed Mushrooms
What effect does partial substitution of meat
with mushrooms have on consumer liking?
Sensory Evaluation: Consumer Test
• 147 adults ages 18-65 tasted and assessed eight
samples.
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8.
Taco Blend: 100% Beef
Taco Blend: 50% Beef, 50% White Mushroom
Taco Blend 20% Beef, 80% White Mushroom
Taco Blend: 100% Beef with 25% less sodium
Taco Blend: 50% Beef, 50% White Mushroom with 25% less sodium
Taco Blend 20% Beef, 80% White Mushroom with 25% less sodium
100% Steak Carne Asada
50% Steak, 50% Cremini Mushroom
Consumer Acceptance
Myrdal Miller A, et al. Flavor-enhancing properties of mushrooms in meat-based dishes in which sodium has been reduced
and meat has been partially substituted with mushrooms. Journal of Food Science. 2014 Sep;79(9):S1795-804.
Consumer Acceptance
Myrdal Miller A, et al. Flavor-enhancing properties of mushrooms in meat-based dishes in which sodium has been reduced
and meat has been partially substituted with mushrooms. Journal of Food Science. 2014 Sep;79(9):S1795-804.
Just About Right Scores
Myrdal Miller A, et al. Flavor-enhancing properties of mushrooms in meat-based dishes in which sodium has been reduced
and meat has been partially substituted with mushrooms. Journal of Food Science. 2014 Sep;79(9):S1795-804.
What factors best describe a consumer
who will like a meat-mushroom blend?
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Educated
Upper income
Gen Y/Millennial
Female
“Foodie”
Guinard and Myrdal Miller. Unpublished data.
Taco Blend Nutrition Data
RECIPE
Total Fat Sat Fat
Calories
(g)
(g)
Mono
Fat (g)
Poly Fat Chol Carb
(g)
(mg) (g)
Fiber Protein Sodium
(g)
(g)
(mg)
100% Beef
103
5.3
1.4
2.7
0.9
32
2.9
0.7
11
334
50% Beef, 50%
Mushroom
85
5.2
0.9
2.9
1.2
16
4
1
6.8
320
50% Beef, 50%
Mushroom
with 25% less sodium
86
5.2
0.9
2.9
1.2
16
4
1
6.8
238
Food Cost Data
Recipe
100% Ground Beef
50% Mushrooms/50% Ground Beef
80% Mushrooms/20% Ground Beef
Cost/Recipe
$13.19
$10.57
$8.99
Cost/2 oz. Serving
$0.53
$0.42
$0.36
Summary of Key Findings
• Cooking technique influences the flavor and umami properties
of mushrooms.
• Consumers generally like mushrooms as a partial substitution
for ground beef because mushrooms enhance the aroma, flavor,
and texture of the finished dish.
• Reducing sodium by 25% negatively impacts consumer liking of
meat-mushroom blends.
• Educated, upper income Millennial women who like to cook are
most likely to like meat-mushroom blends.
• Foodservice operators as well as home cooks can reduce food
cost and improve the nutrient profile of meat-containing recipes
by substituting part of the meat with mushrooms.
Real World Impact
Compass Group North America
“We are testing our first
commercial meat & mushroom
blended burger product, which
would reduce calories, saturated
fat and sodium all by about 20%.”
The average American
eats 3 hamburgers every
week. (The NPD Group)
Hamburgers and
cheeseburgers account
for 71% of all beef served
commercially in the U.S.
(USDA ERS)
Sodexo Beef + Mushroom Blended Burger
of saturated fat, and
Real
World
Impact
40 fewer milligrams of sodium compared to the standard burger for schools.
Contains 30 fewer calories, 2 fewer grams
Burger
(2 M/MA)
Estimated
Purchases
Calories
Fat, g
Sat Fat, g
Sodium, mg
3,165,000
94,950,000
18,990,000
6,330,000
126,600,000
When tested with students before the
nationwide roll-out, 85% of students
preferred them over the previous
non-mushroom burger .
• In 2013 Pizza Hut “silently” rolled out
an improved hand-tossed crust with
35% less sodium.
• In November 2015 Pizza Hut will
successfully complete another
“stealth” sodium reduction, rolling
out Thin ‘N Crispy crust with 38% less
sodium and cheese with 30% less
sodium.
• In 2015 Pizza Hut developed a new
meatball with mushrooms that is
nutritionally superior to its traditional
beef topping—38% fewer calories,
53% less sodium, and 60% less
saturated fat!
Disclosure
Guy Crosby Ph.D., CFS
Science Editor America’s Test Kitchen
Adjunct Associate Professor
Harvard T H Chan School of Public Health
I have no disclosures.
What Creates Deliciousness?
• Deliciousness: Highly pleasing to the
senses, esp. taste and smell
• Sense of Taste + Smell = Flavor
• The sensation of flavor (deliciousness) is
created in our brain
G. M. Shepherd, Neurogastronomy-How the Brain Creates Flavor and Why it Matters,
Columbia University Press, New York, 2012
Sense of Taste
Six Basic Tastes
Sweet
Sour
Umami
Salty
Bitter
Fat (New)
Our sense of taste evolved for survival
Running, C. A., B. A. Craig, R. D. Mattes, Chem Senses, 2015; 40:507-516
Genetic Differences
Super-tasters
Tasters
Non-tasters
L. Bartoshuk, V. Duffy, I. Miller, Physiology and Behavior, 1994, 56:1165-1171
Super-Tasters
• Super-tasters have more taste papillae
• Super-tasters are associated with:
- Lower vegetable intake and higher colon polyps
- Reduced alcohol intake and alcoholism
- Less likely to smoke
- Reduced preference for high-fat foods
- Improved cardiovascular profiles
- Lower body mass index (BMI)
Prescott, J and B. Tepper, Genetic Variation in Taste Sensitivity, Marcel Dekker, 2004
Sense of Smell
• Taste is hardwired but smell is learned
• Far greater sensitivity to smell
• Humans detect some molecules at parts
per trillion
Wilson, D. and R. Stevenson, Learning to Smell: Olfactory Perception from Neurobiology to Behavior,
Johns Hopkins University Press, 2006
Two Routes of Smell
• Orthonasal smell = sniffing through nose
• Retronasal = odors from back of the mouth
• Retronasal smell dominates sense of flavor
G. M. Shepherd, Neurogastronomy-How the Brain Creates Flavor and Why it Matters, Columbia
University Press, New York, 2012
Food Cravings
• Food cravings created in our brain
• Food cravings stimulate three regions of
human brain:
• Emotion, Memory, Reward
M. Pelchat, et al., NeuroImage, 23 (2004): 1486-1493
Sources of Flavor
• Naturally Formed
• Physically Initiated
• Reaction Derived
• Fermentation Created
Reineccius, G., Flavor Chemistry and Technology, CRC Press 2006
The Science of Good Cooking: Beans
All water imbibed through the micropyle.
Soaking and Cooking Beans
• Soaking overnight (RT) reduces cooking time as
much as 45 min
• Soaking at 90°C reduces time to < 1 hour
• Cooked beans imbibe 1.5g water/gram
(cooked beans contain ~ 65% water)
• Cooking hydrates proteins and gelatinizes starch
to soften beans
• Skins split in about 30-40% of beans
Deshpande, S., and M. Cheryan, Plant Food Hum Nutr 1986; 36:157-165
Brining and Cooking Beans
• Brining beans produces creamy interiors with
tender intact skins (no blowout)
• Brine with 1.5 Tbsp salt per 2 qts water
• Cook beans in 163°C (325 °F) oven (1 hr)
• Beans contain 52 mg sodium/3 ounces
• Sodium ions replace calcium ions in cell wall
pectin = weaker pectin = pliable skin
America’s Test Kitchen and Guy Crosby, PhD, The Science of Good Cooking
Enhancing the Flavor of Beans
• All water imbibed through micropyle
• Micropyle does not present a barrier
• Add water soluble flavors: garlic, onion,
rosemary, sage, thyme to brining water
• Brining at 90°C increases solubility
Deshpande, S., and M. Cheryan, Plant Food Hum Nutr 1986; 36:157-165
The Texture of Beans
• Calcium content determines texture
Rank
Brand
Calcium (mg/100g)
1
A
362
2
B
204
3 (tie)
C
176
3 (tie)
D
175
4
E
168
• Calcium content determined by genotype and
soil content – an example of terroir
Quintana, J., et al. HortScience 1999; 34(5):932-934
The Science of Good Cooking: Vegetables
• Most vegetables are flavorless!
• Flavors are created when vegetables are
chopped or chewed (cellular damage)
• Some exceptions are celery, asparagus, bell
pepper, corn.
Creating Flavor in Vegetables
• Damaging cells releases enzymes
• Enzymes create flavor within seconds
• More damage = more flavor
• All cruciferous vegetables work this way
Same for Onion and Garlic
• Chopping creates harsh pungent aroma
• Cooking alters chemistry - mellows flavor
• Slow cooking onions forms meaty aroma
Block, E., Garlic and Other Alliums-The Lore and the Science, RSC Publishing
Blanching Reduces Bitterness
• Blanching reduces bitterness of most
vegetables before it forms
• Sudden heat deactivates enzymes
• Water extracts bitter substrates
• Reducing bitterness may enhance liking
Drewnowski, A., et al. Public Health Nutrition 1999; 2(4):513-519
Roasting Creates Richer Flavor
• Oven roasting with extra virgin olive oil
• Oil reduces evaporation, increases heat
• Oxidation of oil increases surface browning
producing richer flavors
• Volatile aromas of EVOO reduced
• Most beneficial nutrients retained
Zamora, R. and F. Hidalgo, Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr, 2005; 45:49-59
Another Example of Terroir
• Flavor of all cruciferous vegetables, onion and
garlic created from sulfur compounds
• Compounds called glucosinolates
• Amino acid cysteine
• Sulfur compounds from sulfate in soil
• Sulfate content of soil and plant genotype
determine flavor intensity
Falk, K., J. Tokuhisa and J. Gershenzon, Plant Bio 2007; 9:573-581
Practice Applications
• Flavor is created in the brain from our sense of
taste and smell.
• Brining beans creates creamy centers and
tender skins without “blowout”.
• The flavor of most vegetables can be controlled
by preparation.
Strategies for Optimizing
Nutrition and Flavor in
Recipes and Meals
Strategy #1: Presentation Matters
We eat first with our eyes!
Strategy #2: Quality Matters
You can’t end up with good flavor if you don’t start with good flavor.
• 186 samples of extra virgin
olive oil evaluated
• Of the five top-selling
imported “extra virgin” olive
oil brands, 73% had sensory
defects.
• “Sensory defects are
indicators that these [oils]
are oxidized, of poor quality,
and/or adulterated with
cheaper refined oils.”
Source: http://olivecenter.ucdavis.edu/research/files/report041211finalreduced.pdf
Strategy #3: Storage Matters
Less stable oils need cold storage to maintain fresh flavor.
11% PUFA
(1% ALA)
28% PUFA
(9% ALA)
63% PUFA
(10% ALA)
Strategy #4: Ingredients Matter
Sodium Content of Various Salts
Type/Brand
Fine grain iodized table salt
DIAMOND CRYSTAL
Fine Sea Salt
Morton Salt Balance
(contains potassium chloride)
DIAMOND CRYSTAL
Kosher Salt
Weight
of 1 teaspoon
Sodium Content
of 1 teaspoon
6g
2360 mg
5.6 g
2160 mg
6g
1760 mg
2.8 g
1120 mg
Strategy #5: Ingredients Matter
If a recipe contains more vegetables, will people eat more vegetables?
Comparing Two Recipes
Cheesy Bean & Broccoli Pasta
Cheesy Bean & Broccoli Pasta
1 lb. whole wheat penne
2 lb. whole wheat penne
2-15 oz. cans Great Northern beans
1-15 oz. can Great Northern beans
2 cups broccoli florets
1 cup broccoli florets
1-15 oz. jar reduced fat Alfredo sauce
2-15 oz. jars Alfredo sauce
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan
cheese
½ cup freshly grated Parmesan
cheese
“Suggestive Selling” of Vegetables
• At 4.30 pm, many shoppers don’t know what
they are having for dinner that night. (Retail
World, Sept 2014)
• 3 out of 4 shoppers like to use pre-prepared or
partially prepared meal ingredients at least
1/week. (Retail World, Sept 2014)
• 5 in 10 households use recipe bases. (Nielsen,
March 2015)
• 89% of shoppers follow the on pack recipe
instructions and are likely to use this as a
shopping list. (Mars Food market research,
2014)
• So why not add vegetables to recipe on
pack or suggest serving with vegetables?
Strategy #6: Techniques Matter
Cutting vegetables releases enzymes, which in turn releases flavor.
Strategy #7: Techniques Matter
Blanching cruciferous vegetables reduces bitterness.
Strategy #8: Techniques Matter
Roasting or searing mushrooms enhances umami flavor & texture.
Strategy #9: Techniques Matter
Brining beans before cooking enhance flavor & texture.
Strategy #10: Techniques Matter
Oven roasting vegetables in EVOO enhances flavor.
Questions?
Amy Myrdal Miller, MS, RDN, FAND
Guy Crosby, PhD, CFS
Session #154: Sunday, October 16, 2016 | 3:30-5:00 p.m. | Room 205ABC
Delicious Plant-Based Dietary Guidance:
Food Science & Culinary Strategy
Moderator: Sanna Delmonico, MS, RDN
Presenters: Amy Myrdal Miller, MS, RDN, FAND and Guy Crosby, PhD, CFS