Transcript Ch 23

Chapter 23
Facials
Learning Objectives
• Explain the pertinent information to gather
during a client consultation and skin analysis
before performing facial treatments.
• Identify examples of contraindication that
prohibit performing facial treatments.
• Determine the difference between skin type and
skin condition.
• Name the different categories of skin care
products used in facial treatments.
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Learning Objectives (continued)
• Explain the different categories of skin care
products used in facial treatments, and provide
examples of each.
• Define why massage is used during a facial.
• Name and briefly describe the five categories of
massage manipulations.
• Name and describe two types of electrical
machines used in facial treatments.
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Learning Objectives (continued)
• Explain how the two types of electrical machines
add value to a facial.
• Know the difference between galvanic and highfrequency treatments used in facial services.
• Explain how light therapy is used to treat the
skin.
• Discuss how aromatherapy is used in the basic
facial.
Introduction
• Besides being very relaxing, facial treatments
can offer many improvements to the appearance
of the skin.
• Proper skin care can make oily skin look cleaner
and healthier, dry skin look and feel more moist
and supple, and aging skin look smoother,
firmer, and less wrinkled.
• A combination of good salon facial treatments
and effective, individualized home care will show
visible results.
Conduct a Consultation and Skin Analysis
• Analysis determines skin type, skin condition,
and needed treatment.
• Consultation allows you to ask questions about
client’s health and skin care history, and to
advise client about needed home-care regimen.
Client Intake Form
• Used to determine if client has any
contraindications that might prevent skin
treatments
Contraindications
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Isotretinoin (Accutane®)
Retin-A (Tretinoin®), Reno Tazorac, or Differin
Pregnancy
Metal bone pins or plates
Pacemakers or other heart conditions
Known allergies
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Contraindications (continued)
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Seizures or epilepsy
Use of oral steroids
Autoimmune diseases such as lupus
Diabetes
Use of blood thinners
Sensitive, redness-prone skin
Open sores, herpes simplex (cold sores)
Recent facial surgery or laser treatment
Record-Keeping
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Client data
Client’s occupation
Clients date of birth
Medical conditions
Medications
Previous treatment
Home care recommendations
Determine Skin Type During the Skin Analysis
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Read health screening form.
Have client change into smock.
Seat client in chair.
Drape client.
Have client remove jewelry.
Recline client in chair.
Wash hands.
Warm cleansing milk and apply.
Apply cotton eye pads to client’s eyes.
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Determine Skin Type During the Skin Analysis
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• Examine with magnifying
lamp.
• Observe visible pores.
– Obvious pores: oily skin
– Lack of pores: dry, or
alipidic skin
Skin Types
Acne
• Pores are very large in all areas.
• Acne is considered a skin type because it is
hereditary.
• Presence of numerous, open and closed
comedones, clogged pores, and red papules and
pustules (pimples).
Analysis of Skin Conditions
• Dehydration
• Hyperpigmentation
• Sensitive skin
– Rosacea
– Dilated capillaries (telangiectasias, couperose)
Aging and Sun-Damaged Skin
• Aging skin – indicated by loss of elasticity.
Wrinkles may appear.
• Sun-damaged skin – hyperpigmentation,
wrinkles, and sagging skin will be present.
Categorize Skin Care Products
• Cleansers
– Cleansing milk
– Foaming cleansers
• Toners (fresheners or astringents)
– Lower pH
– Remove excess cleanser
– Hydrate and soothe
Exfoliants
• Mechanical exfoliants
– Granular scrubs
– Gommages
– Microdermabrasion scrubs
• Chemical exfoliants
– Salon AHA exfoliants
– Prior home use required
When to Avoid Mechanical Peeling
• Skin with visible capillaries
• Thin skin that reddens easily
• Older skin that is thin and bruises easily
• Skin being medically treated
• Acne-prone skin with inflamed papules and
pustules
Enzyme Peels
• Use keratolytic enzymes that dissolve keratin
protein in surface cells
• Derived from papaya, pineapple, and beef
by-products.
• Cream type
• Powder type
Moisturizers and Sunscreens
• Moisturizers
– Dry skin
– Oily skin
• Sunscreens and day
protection products
– Serums and ampoules
– Massage creams
Masks
• Clay-based – oil-absorbing
• Cream – contain oils and emollients
• Gel – used for sensitive/dehydrated skin
• Alginate – often seaweed-based
• Paraffin – used with treatment creams
• Modelage – beneficial for dry, mature skin
Learn the Basic Techniques of a Facial Massage
• Massage is the manual or mechanical
manipulation of the head or body by rubbing,
pinching, kneading, tapping, and other
movements to increase metabolism and
circulation, promote absorption, and relieve pain.
Basic Massage Manipulations
• Effleurage
• Pétrissage
• Fulling
• Friction
• Chucking
• Rolling
• Wringing
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Basic Massage Manipulations (continued)
• Tapotement
• Slapping
• Hacking
• Vibration
Physiological Effects of Massage
• Motor points
– Varied locations
– Relaxation
Benefits of Massage
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Skin nourishment
Softness and pliability
Increased blood circulation
Gland stimulation
Stimulated and strengthened muscle fibers
Soothed and rested nerves
Relieved pain
Facial Manipulations
• Chin movement
• Lower cheeks
• Mouth, nose, and cheek
movements
• Linear movement over
the forehead
• Circular movement over
the forehead
• Crisscross movement
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Facial Manipulations (continued)
• Stroking (headache)
movement
• Brow and eye movement
• Nose and upper cheek
movement
• Mouth and nose
movement
• Lip and chin movement
• Optional movement
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Facial Manipulations (continued)
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Lifting movement of the cheeks
Rotary movement of the cheeks
Light tapping movement
Stroking movement of the neck
Circular movement over the
neck and chest
Chest, Back, and Neck Manipulations
• Chest and back movement
• Shoulders and back movement
• Back massage
Know the Purpose of the Facial Equipment
• Facial steamer
• Brushing machine
• Skin suction/cold spray
How Electrotherapy and Light Therapy
Treat the Skin
• Types of electrotherapy
– Galvanic
– High-frequency
• Not to be used on clients with metal implants,
pacemakers, heart disease, epilepsy, pregnancy,
high blood pressure, fever, infection, insufficient
nerve sensibility, open or broken skin, and fear
of the procedure
Electrode
• An applicator for directing the electric current
from the machine to the client’s skin.
• Galvanic machines
– Anode: positive
– Cathode: negative
Galvanic Current
• Desincrustation – softens and emulsifies hardened
sebum stuck in hair follicles
• Iontophoresis – penetrates water-soluble products
that contain ions into the skin
Microcurrent
• A type of galvanic treatment that uses a very low
level of electrical current.
• It has many applications in skin care.
• Best known for helping to tone the skin,
producing a lifting effect for aging skin that lacks
elasticity.
High Frequency Current
• An electrode is an applicator for directing electric
current from machine to client’s skin.
– Direct application: Applied directly to skin.
– Indirect application: Client holds electrode.
• Used to stimulate blood flow and help penetrate
products.
• Can be used for acne-prone skin because of its
germicidal effect.
Light Therapy
• Infrared lamps – used to heat
skin and increase blood flow
• Light-emitting diode (LED) –
used to heal, minimize
redness, warm lower level
tissues, stimulate blood flow,
help acne-prone skin
Microdermabrasion
• A type of mechanical exfoliation that involves
shooting aluminum oxide or other crystals at the
skin with a hand-held device that exfoliates dead
cells.
• Produces fast, visible results.
• Treats surface wrinkles and aging skin.
• Requires extensive training.
Use Facials to Treat Basic and Specialty Skin Types
• Preservative – maintain
health of facial skin
• Corrective – correct
some skin conditions
such as dryness,
oiliness, comedones,
aging lines, and minor
conditions of acne
Guidelines for Facial Treatments
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Speak quietly and professionally.
Explain benefits and answer questions.
Provide quiet atmosphere.
Work quietly and efficiently.
Maintain clean environment.
Follow systematic procedures.
Warm hands.
Keep nails smooth and short.
Analyze skin.
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Basic Facial Application
Special Problems
• There are a number of special problems that
must be considered when you are performing a
facial.
• Dry skin – caused by insufficient flow of sebum
• Oily skin – caused by hardened masses of
sebum in sebaceous glands
Special Notes for Acne-Prone Skin
• Limited measures for acne: Reducing oiliness;
working under medical supervision
Facial Treatments for Men
• More men are having facial treatments than
ever before.
• Always moving with the pattern of the beard
• Usually these are downward and outward
movements.
• Use sponges instead of cotton pads on a man’s
face.
• Cotton will get caught in beard hair.
Consultation and Home Care
• Conduct in well-lighted area with mirror.
• Educate client about at-home and salon procedures.
• Organize products for retail and explain each.
• Use of essential oils
that improves the
efficacy of many skin
care preparations.
• Enhances physical,
emotional, and mental
well-being.
© Botamochy/Shutterstock.com
Use of Aromatherapy in the Basic Facial
Summary and Review
• In this chapter, you learned about skin types,
skin conditions, contraindications to a facial,
facial procedure, and various modalities.
Chapter Review Questions
1. Explain skin analysis techniques. Why is the
skin analysis important?
2. What is a contraindication? List five examples.
3. Why is it important to have every client
complete a client intake form?
4. Describe the differences between alipidic and
oily skin.
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Chapter Review Questions (continued)
5. What is the difference between skin type and
skin condition?
6. Name and explain the different categories of
skin care products.
7. What are the steps to completing a client
consultation?
8. Why is massage used during a facial?
(continues)
Chapter Review Questions (continued)
9. Name and briefly describe the five categories
of massage manipulations.
10. Name and describe two types of electrical
machines used in facial treatments and why
these machines add value to a facial.
11. Who is not a good candidate for electrical
current treatment? Why?
12. How can aromatherapy be used in the basic
facial?