Transcript Slide 1
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BY: MALVI PATEL
UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF: DR. ABHA DOSHI
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Ageing is the process of growing old.
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Keratinocytes
• They produce keratin in the skin
Melanocytes
• Produce melanin pigment in the skin
Langerhans cells
• Participate in immune response
Merkel cells
• Touch sensation
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Fibroblasts
• Provides structural framework
• Synthesizes extracellular dermal constituents
Macrophages
• Phagocytosis of cellular debris and pathogens
Adipocytes
• Fat storage cells
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COLLAGEN
• most abundant
• Provides strength and support
ELASTIN
• Imparts elasticity to the skin
GLCOSAMINOGLYCANS
• High water retaining capacity
• Most important of them is HYALURONIC ACID
• Telomere
Shortening
• Mitochondrial
Damage
• Endocrine
Dysfunction
EXTRINSIC AGEING
INRINSIC AGEING
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• Photo-ageing
• Smoking
• Lifestyle
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What are telomeres?
Its relation to ageing?
• Telomere shortening = ageing
Telomerase – the savior
• Helps stabilize and replenish the telomere length
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The mitochondria generates reactive
oxygen species during ETC.
What are Reactive Oxygen Species?
Lipid Peroxidation
The bad effects of
these Reactive
Oxygen Species?
Alteration of gene
expression
pathways causing:
Degradation of
collagen
Accumulation of
elastin
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• Ageing causes reduced hormone production.
• Estrogen reduces with age.
• Lower Estrogen level is associated with skin ageing and telomere shortening.
Reduced
Estrogen causes
Loss of
Elasticity
Reduced Water
holding capacity
Increased
Pigmentation
Decreased
vascularity
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Ultraviolet (UV) rays from the sun cause skin
damage and accelerate ageing of the skin.
Two mechanisms by which UV rays act are:
Mechanism 1 (Induction of Matrix
Metalloproteinases)
Mechanism II (Mitochondrial Damage)
▪ DNA damage
▪ Production of ROS
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Smokers look older than non-smokers of the
same age.
Tobacco smoke induces Matrix
metalloproteinases.
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Lifestyle of a person can also contribute to
ageing.
Factors such as:
Lack of sleep
Intake of alcohol
Improper diet
Stress
Can have ill effects on the skin and accelerate
ageing.
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YOUNGER SKIN
OLDER SKIN
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SUNSCREENS
MOISTURIZERS
ANTIOXIDANTS
FILLERS
CHEMICAL PEELS
BOTULINUM TOXIN (BOTOX)
ESTROGENS
PLASTIC SURGERY
MAKE-UP
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Approx Rs 100 to 150
Most of the damage during
ageing is due to the harmful
UV radiations blocking
these rays are the primary
step to prevent skin ageing.
We will take a closer look at
HOW SUNSCREENS ACT?
TYPES OF SUNSCREENS
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PHYSICAL SUNSCREENS
CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS
ACT BY REFLECTING THE LIGHT
ACTS BY ABSORBING THE LIGHT
= SUNSCREEN SUBSTANCE
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PHYSICAL SUNSCREENS
•Zinc Oxide
•Titanium Dioxide
CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS
•Salicylates
•Cinnamates
•Anthranalites
NOTE – It has even been observed that use of
sunscreens helps in reversing the effects of ageing.
Hence incorporation of sunscreens into your daily skin
care regimen is of primary importance.
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A sunscreen formulation in a vanishing cream base
Ingredient
Quantity
Role
Stearic acid
18%
Forms primary emulsion with
NaOH and also forms an occlusive
film
Sodium hydroxide
0.5%
Reacts with a portion of the
stearic acid insitu to form the
emulsifying agent sodium
stearate
Cetyl aclcohol
0.5%
Emollient , occlusive
Menthyl anthranilate
5%
Chemical sunscreen agent
Glycerin
10%
Humectant
Water
To make 100%
Aqueous phase of the cream
Perfume
q.s.
Gives pleasant odour
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In old age, it is
observed that there
is a dryness and
dehydration of
skin.
Moisturizers help
the skin retain the
moisture and this
helps to make the
skin soft and
supple.
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Ingredient
Quantity
Role
Stearic acid
4.0%
Triethanolamine
0.2%
Reacts with
triethanolamine to form
primary emulsion.
Mineral oil
8.0%
Lanolin
1.0%
Isopropyl Myristate
2.0%
Glyceryl monostearate
3.0%
Helps form secondary
emulsion
Glycerin
4.0%
Humectant
Propylene Glycol
4.0%
Water
100.0
Vehicle
Perfume
q.s.
Gives a pleasant odour
Emolient and occlusive
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Free radicals or reactive oxygen species are the major
cause of ageing and damage in cells over time.
X
Antioxidants act by neutralizing the free radicals and
thus prevent them from causing damage to the cells.
Most commonly used are
• Vitamin A
• Vitamin C
• Vitamin E
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Approx Rs 1700 to 2000/ crease
Substitutes for lost dermal components.
• Over age, the dermis loses many components which
are responsible for elasticity such as collagen.
• This loss of elastic constituent of the skin leads to
wrinkles and furrows in the skin.
• Replenishing the dermal constituents by artificially
injecting it helps the skin to reduce the visible ageing.
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Dermal filler type
Product
Collagen
-Bovine collagen
- human collagen
Zyderm, and Zyplast
Cosmoderm, Cosmoplast
Hyaluronic acid
Restylane, Hyalaform, Captique and
Juvederm
Biologic combination fillers
Alloderm
Autogenous fat
Poly-L-Lactic Acid
Sculptra
Radiesse
Polymethylmethacrylate microspheres
Injectable liquid silicone
Artefill
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Zyderm I
Zyderm II (mid dermis)
Zyplast (deep dermis)
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Around 400 to 1000+ depending on depth
Treatment to improve skin condition using a
chemical solution which would cause the old
skin to blister and eventually peel off
exposing new smoother skin.
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Alphahydroxy acids (AHAs) – eg.
Glycolic acid and
lactic acid.
Betahydroxy acids (BHAs) – eg.
Salicylic acid
Jessner’s Peel –
combo of resorcinol, salicylic acid and lactic acid.
Trichloroacetic acid (TCA)
Phenol peels
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Chemical Peels
Superficial
Very Light
eg. Glycolic acid 10
to 50%
Medium depth eg.
Combo of TCA
35% and 70%
Glycolic acid
Light
eg. Glycolic acid 50
to 70%
Deep eg. BakerGordon Formula
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Choosing a
chemical peel
Patient
counselling and
consent
Washing and
defatting of skin
Peeling agent is
applied using a
gauze/cotton
swabs
Premedication
given
Protection of
delicate areas
Application of peel
is done from
forehead to chin
Allow the peel to
stay on till frost
formation
Stop the peeling
process using
neutralization
when necessary
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Approx Rs 1700 – 2000/ crease
Botulinum toxin type A is a toxin obtained by the
process of fermentation using Clostridium botulinum
species of bacteria.
Botulinum toxin is a highly toxic substance which
when used in lower concentrations can be beneficial to
reduce wrinkles by causing flaccid paralysis.
The toxin is injected in quantity of 5-10 units
intramuscularly.
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Estrogen and its derivatives can be given
Orally
Topically
Newer Selective Estrogen Receptor
Modulators (SERMs) can also be used for its
specific action on skin.
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Rs 20,000 +
The word ‘plastikos’ means to mold or to
shape.
Many surgical techniques to enhance skin
appearance exist.
Of which the most common used are:
Blepharoplasty
Rhitidectomy
(face lift)
Dermabrasion
Laser
resurfacing
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Lip-liner
Foundation
make up
Lip balms
Commonly
used
make-up
Face
powders
Eye liners
and
mascaras–
Price Varies
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“Youth has no age”
Pablo Picasso
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Journal Articles
Skin ageing and its treatment, L Baumann* Journal of Pathology J Pathol 2007; 211: 241–251
Elderly skin and its rejuvenation: products and procedures for the aging skin, Marcia Ramos-e-Silva
et. al., Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 6, 40–50
Dermal filler agents: a practical review, Sukhjit S. Johl and Richard A. Burgett, Current Opinion in
Ophthalmology 2006, 17:471–479
Effect of estrogens on skin aging and the potential role of selective estrogen receptor modulators.
S Verdier-Sévrain Climacteric; Aug 2007; 10, 4; Health Module pg. 289
Facial skin rejuvenation, David E. E. Holck and John D. Ng, Current Opinion in Ophthalmology 2003,
14:246–252
Nutritional and Botanical Approaches to Antiaging, Chris D. Meletis, N.D., with Nieske Zabriskie,
N.D. ALTERNATIVE & COMPLEMENTARY THERAPIES—DECEMBER 2006, 268-274.
Textbooks :
Principles of Anatomy and Physiology, Gerard J Tortora, Chapter 5– The Integumentary System (pg
139 – 145)
Harrys cosmeticology, J. D. Wilkinson and R. J. Moore, Longman Singapore publishers te ltd. Pg 222 258(sunscreens and suntan oils)
Cosmetics Formulation Manufacturing and Quality Control, P P Sharma, Vandana Publications pvt.
Ltd. Pg 195 – 198, 183 – 185.
Web References:
Wikipedia: (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Telomere, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Skin,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botulinum_toxin)
E- Medicine ( Chemical Peels by Raymond T Kuwahara - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Botulinum_toxin )
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