Transcript Chapter - Chef Dean

Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Chapter Pre-Requisites
Before Studying this chapter, you should already:
• Have read “How to Use This Book,” pages xxviii-xxxiii, and
understand the professional recipe format.
• Know how to accurately scale up and scale down recipe formula
amounts.
• Know how to accurately weigh ingredients using both a spring scale
and a digital scale.
• Be able to correctly fabricate various cuts of meat, poultry, and
seafood.
• Be able to create and maintain accurate records of the times and
temperatures involved in food production.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Chapter Objectives
After reading this chapter, you should be able to:
• Explain the scientific principles involved in curing foods.
• Prepare the two basic types of curing compounds, and
use nitrite/nitrate curing mixes safely and effectively.
• Identify appropriate meats, poultry, and seafood for
curing, and choose the most appropriate curing
compounds for each.
• Use both the dry cure and brine cure methods to cure
meats, poultry, and seafood.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Chapter Objectives
After reading this chapter, you should be able to:
• Describe the results when wood smoke is applied to
cured foods.
• Explain the science of smoking.
• Select smoking equipment appropriate for your
operation’s product list, sales volume, and budget.
• Prepare smoked products by both the hot smoking and
cold smoking methods.
• Prepare various types of confit and other traditional and
modern foods sealed in fat.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Understanding Curing
How Curing Works
• To cure: to treat a food with salt to make less hospitable to bacteria,
molds, and other harmful microorganisms that cause spoilage.
• Virtually all foods, including vegetables and cheeses, can be
preserved with salt.
• This chapter broadly pertains to all types of animal meat, including
domestic meat, wild game meat, domestic poultry and game birds,
and various types of fish and shellfish.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Understanding Curing
How Curing Works
• Harmful organisms such as bacteria and molds need water to live
and grow.
• Because salt is strongly attracted to water, it acts as a food
preservative by making water unavailable to bacteria in two ways:
1.
2.
Salt applied to the surface of a food removes much of the water from it.
Some salt is absorbed into the food, which bonds strongly with the
remaining moisture in the food—this makes it unable to be absorbed
and used by microorganisms.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Understanding Curing
Types of Cured Foods
• Cured foods are prepared and served in several ways.
– Some are ready to eat as soon as the curing process is complete (e.g.,
Gravlax or cured salmon).
– Some are cooked, typically by the consumer, after they are cured (e.g.,
Pancetta or Italian unsmoked bacon).
– Some are dried after being cured or during the curing process, then
eaten in their dry form without cooking (e.g., Jerky, prosciutto, and dry
sausages).
– Some cured and dried foods are fully or partially rehydrated by soaking
in water before they are eaten; this also removes some of the salt.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Understanding Curing
Types of Cured Foods
• These foods are usually cooked after they are soaked. Salt cod and
the country hams of the American South are good examples.
• Some cured foods are further preserved by cooking and storing them in
fat after they are cured. Confit is an example.
• Some meats and poultry are lightly cured to season them before they
are grilled or roasted.
– These cures are only for flavor and, while they slightly increase refrigerated
holding times, do not preserve the foods to which they are applied.
• Finally, curing is the first step in smoking.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Understanding Curing
Curing Compounds
• A curing compound is a salt-based mixture of
ingredients that usually contains flavoring ingredients,
such as sugar, spices, and herbs.
• Some cures include additional preserving agents as well.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Understanding Curing
Curing Compounds
• There are two ways in which a curing compound can be
applied to foods.
1. Dry Cures
• Based on dry salt and other dry ingredients that are ground or
pulverized into a granular or powdered form.
• Also called a rub, as the salt and seasonings are rubbed into the meat.
2. Brine Cures
• When salt is dissolved in water, the resulting liquid is called a brine.
• When salt is dissolved in water to make a curing medium, the resulting
liquid curing compound is called a brine cure, also called a wet cure.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Understanding Curing
Curing Compounds
• Brine cures usually contain other ingredients, such as sugar, spices,
herbs, and other flavorings.
• Today, a brine cure that has a strong acidic component is called a
pickle.
• A brine cure can be applied to foods in several ways:
–
–
–
–
Immerse the food in the brine.
Inject the brine into the flesh with a food injector.
Pump the brine into the flesh through the arteries.
Often a combination of these methods is used.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Ingredients for Cured Foods
Curing Ingredients
• The most important curing ingredient is salt.
– For general curing, most charcutiers and garde manger chefs use
a medium grind refined salt.
– Medium-grind salts are preferred as they are easy to handle,
dissolve quickly in a brine, and can be applied evenly to meat
when used in a dry cure.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Ingredients for Cured Foods
Curing Ingredients
• Many other ingredients are also used as part of a curing
mix.
– Nitrate/Nitrite Mixes
• Centuries ago, people discovered that salts derived from
certain sources preserved meat better and for a longer time.
• Early twentieth-century scientists discovered this was due to
the presence of sodium nitrite (NaNO2) and/or sodium nitrate
(NaNO3) in the salt.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Ingredients for Cured Foods
Curing Ingredients
• Two types of tinted curing mix are available for curing:
1. Prague Powder #1: A mixture of 6% sodium nitrite and 94%
sodium chloride, plus a small amount of red food coloring. It is
the more frequently used of the two types.
2. Prague Powder #2: A mixture of 6% sodium nitrite and 94%
sodium chloride with a fraction of a percent of sodium nitrate
added. Red food coloring is included to tint the mixture pink.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Ingredients for Cured Foods
Curing Ingredients
• Although similar, Prague Powders #1 and #2 have
different ingredients and are used for different products
and procedures—they are NOT interchangeable.
• The amount of nitrites and nitrates used in a cure for a
given amount of meat depends on several factors:
– Type of meat
– Type of cure
– Length of curing time
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Ingredients for Cured Foods
Sugars
• Granular sugars can be used in both brines and dry
cures, while liquid sugars are used in brine cures only.
• The presence of sugar:
– provides flavor.
– counteracts the harshness of highly concentrated salts found in
strongly cured products like hams and bacon.
– adds to the perception of moistness in cured foods that might
otherwise seem dry.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Ingredients for Cured Foods
Herbs, Spices, and Other Flavorings
• Virtually all herbs, spices, aromatic vegetables, or seasonings used
in cooking may be used in curing compound.
Water
• The water used to make a brine cure can affect the success of the
product being cured.
• Unwanted chemicals and trace metals in tap water can create offflavors and interfere with the curing process.
• It is advisable to use filtered or distilled water for making brines.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Ingredients for Cured Foods
Foods to be Cured
•
•
•
•
•
Pork
Beef, Veal, Mutton and Lamb
Game Meats
Poultry and Game Birds
Fish and Shellfish
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Curing Procedures
Evaluating Meats, Poultry, and Fish for Curing
• Larger/heavier food items need more curing compound.
• Thick, compact food items with less surface area require longer curing
time.
• Thin, flat food items with greater surface area require less curing time.
• Foods with delicate textures and loose, open grains require less dry
curing compound or a weaker brine.
• Firm, dense foods require more dry curing compound or stronger brine.
• Irregularly shaped items with nooks and crannies are usually cured in a
brine.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Curing Procedures
Guidelines for Cured Foods Safety
• Maintain strict standards of sanitation.
• Be extra careful when measuring ingredients for cured foods.
• Always weigh the salt rather than measure by volume. If you are
using a tinted curing mix, make sure it is the correct type.
• Maintain strict temperature controls.
• Make sure brine cures are at room or refrigerator temperature when
they are applied to foods.
• When curing, always use nonreactive materials, such as plastic or
stainless steel.
• Be sure to observe the correct curing times and techniques.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Curing Procedures
The Four Phases of the Curing Process
1.
2.
3.
4.
Fabrication
Cure Application
Cure Penetration
Drying
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Curing Procedures
The Pellicle
• Pellicle: Translucent, tacky skin on air-dried cured products.
• Four functions:
1. Keeps microorganisms and physical contaminants from contacting the
meat during storage or further processing.
2. Prevents the meat from excessive drying during storage or further
processing.
3. Prevents wrapping materials from sticking to the meat during storage.
4. In cured meats to be smoked:
a) Captures the smoke’s flavors and passes them into the meat’s interior.
b) Captures and holds the pigments present in the smoke, giving the product
an attractive burnished color.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Brine Curing
Immersion Brining
• Immersion brining is a technique in which food is placed in a
sanitized, nonreactive container and immersed in brine.
• This works best for small items or larger items with a lot of surface
area.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Brine Curing
Internal Brining
1. Injection brining: Forcing the brine through a needle
directly into the muscle structure of the meat.
a) For even application, the needle is inserted at key points all over
the item.
2. Arterial brining: Forcing the brine into the arteries in a
front or hind leg primal cut.
a) The brine travels through the arteries, into the smaller blood
vessels, and finally into the muscle structure of the meat.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Brine Curing
Equipment for Internal Brining
• Brining syringe: A stainless-steel cylindrical chamber with a large
needle and a plunger.
• Continuous-feed brine pump: A plastic cylinder with a large needle
and a plunger.
• When the plunger is pumped, it creates suction to draw the brine
into the cylinder and out through the needle into the meat or artery.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Brine Curing
Artisan Arterial Brining
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Dry Curing
There are two basic methods for applying a dry cure:
1. Rubbing Method
– Small, flat items that need only a light cure are coated with a thin layer
of the dry cure compound.
– It is massaged into the meat to ensure an even coating and to jumpstart penetration.
2. Packing Method
– After the meat is rubbed with a dry cure compound, it is placed into a
nonreactive container (a curing tub), lined with a shallow layer of
additional dry cure compound.
– The meat is periodically turned and its position in the tub is rotated, a
procedure called overhauling.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Dry Curing
Air-Dried Beef Jerky
(A) Slice beef across the grain into
(B) Lay the strips on a sheet tray
even 1⁄8-in. (0.33-cm) slices. Cut
the slices into 1-in. (2.5-cm) strips.
and sprinkle curing compound on
both sides.
(C) Place the beef strips in
(D) When finished, the beef will be
a single layer on the rack of
a food dehydrator (or a
cooling rack).
dark in color, completely dry and
stiff, and have a leathery texture.
Place in a sealed container.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Introduction to Smoked Foods
What Smoking Adds
• The smoke’s aroma penetrates the food.
• The flavor compounds in the smoke permeate the food.
• Pigments present in the smoke are transferred to the food’s exterior
and darken its color.
• Certain chemicals found in the smoke enhance its preservation.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Introduction to Smoked Foods
The Importance of Curing Before Smoking
• Curing before smoking also improves the texture and
flavor of the final product in two ways:
1. Curing accompanied by proper air-drying forms a
pellicle that prepares the food to more fully accept
the smoke.
2. Curing seasons the meat with the flavors we
associate with smoked foods.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Ingredients
Foods for Smoking
• Meats, poultry, and fish are the most common foods to be smoked.
• Shellfish items, such as oysters or shrimp, are occasionally smoked.
• In general, foods with a high fat content are better for smoking.
Woods for Smoking
• The woods most frequently used come from hardwood trees.
• Some types of hardwood are much more fragrant and produce
amore flavorful smoked product than others.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Smoking Temperatures
Cold Smoking
• In cold smoking, foods:
– are held at temperatures below 100°F (38°C) during the
application of smoke. (A temperature range of 80°–90°F [26°–
32°C] is ideal.)
– are usually carved into paper-thin slices.
1. The thin slices showcase the products’ attractive, translucent
appearance.
2. Thin slicing takes into account the powerful flavors of the cure and
the smoke.
3. As connective tissues have not been broken down by heat, many
smoked products would be too chewy if cut into thick slices.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Smoking Temperatures
Hot Smoking
• In hot smoking, foods:
– are surrounded by smoke between 150 and 200°F (65°C and
93°C), and brought to an internal temperature of 165°F (75°C).
– take on a different texture and appearance due to the
temperature.
• Fish changes from translucent to opaque and takes on a visibly flaky
texture.
• Meat also becomes opaque. Its texture becomes smoother and, in
most products, more tender.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Equipment for Smoking
No matter which type of equipment you plan to use,
your smoker will have three basic features:
1. A heat source
2. A smoking chamber
3. A ventilation/circulation system
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
The Smoking Procedure
Hot Smoked Trout
Place the trout
skin-side down, in a
single layer, on the
smoker rack set
over a sheet tray
Pour the cold
brine over the
trout
Place the trout
in the smoker
and smoke
until it reaches
an internal
temperature of
145°F (63°C).
Cool to room
temperature
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Foods Preserved in Fat
1. Confits : Foods that are first cured and then cooked
and sealed in fat.
2. Rillettes : Foods that are cooked in a flavorful, fatty
liquid, shredded, and then sealed in fat. Rillettes are
seasoned with salt but not cured.
3. Terrines : Foods that are sometimes sealed in their
baking pans with their own and additional fat.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Foods Preserved in Fat
Procedure for Making Confit
Place meat in sanitized container,
weight and refrigerate
On a stove burner, quickly bring the
fat and meat to 200°F (93°C). Cook
the meat until it is very tender
Pour ladle of hot fat over the meat
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved
Chapter
11
Cured and Smoked Foods
Foods Preserved in Fat
Rillettes and Other Uncured Foods Sealed in Fat
• Rillettes is the French name for cooked, shredded meats
preserved in fat.
• In rillettes and similar fat-sealed charcuterie products,
the fat is meant to be eaten along with the meat it
surrounds.
• Rillettes are typically made from pork shoulder or poultry
legs sealed with pork lard or rendered poultry fat.
• Seafood rillettes or potted shrimp are sealed with butter.
Copyright © 2011 by John Wiley & Sons, Inc. All Rights Reserved