Transcript KeepinganAquarium-16x

KEEPING AN
AQUARIUM
Aquarium types, parts, and testing.
Aquariums come in four main
types dived by salinity and then
further divided into other types
◦ Freshwater – salinities less than 0.5 ppt.
◦ Saltwater – contains water and organisms found in the ocean at
salinities of 30-35 ppt.
◦ Brackish water – organisms from estuaries were freshwater from
rivers or streams mix with saltwater. Most are maintained at 24-28
ppt.
◦ Brine – Brine shrimp (sea monkeys) kept at salinities above 50 ppt.
Freshwater Tanks - Community
◦ Most commonly kept aquarium at 10 gallons or above.
◦ Fish are non-aggressive towards other species or their own
species
◦ Examples include:
◦ Mollies
◦ Platys
◦ Guppies
◦ Tetras
◦ Most fish at the pet store!
Freshwater Tanks – Semi-Agressive
◦ Fish that can be aggressive towards other species or their own
species.
◦ Require larger tanks with smaller numbers and more places to
hide.
◦ Examples
◦ Oscars
◦ Freshwater puffers
◦ Goldfish
Freshwater Tanks – Specialty Tanks
◦ Betta
◦ Highly aggressive; single fish in small tank with little or no filtration.
◦ Cichlid
◦ Aggressive toward non-cichlid species.
◦ Highly colorful
◦ From only 3 Lakes in Africa
◦ Slider
◦ Freshwater green turtles
◦ Need something to come out of water onto
◦ Koi
◦ Usually kept in indoor or outdoor ponds
◦ Fast growers
Saltwater Tanks – Coral Reef
◦ Organisms that are common to the coral reefs of the Caribbean Sea, Indonesia, or the
Great Barrier Reef.
◦ Corals (real or fake) are needed for structure and shelter.
◦ Organisms include
◦ Angelfish
◦ Anemones
◦ Clownfish
◦ Damsels
◦ Tangs
◦ Wrasse
Saltwater Tanks – Live Rock
◦ Organisms found around rocky features.
◦ Rocks contain organisms that help maintain water quality.
◦ Examples include
◦ Anemones
◦ Eels
◦ Cleaner Shrimp
◦ Tube worms
◦ Lionfish
Saltwater Tanks – Sand and Round
◦ Sand
◦ Organisms found in areas with sandy bottoms
◦ Often contain plants (fake usually)
◦ Calcium based sand such as crushed coral (not river sand)
◦ Round Tanks
◦ Needed for sensitive or high energy animals
◦ Corners lead to injury, no corners = less injuries
◦ Examples include
◦ Jellyfish
◦ Sharks
◦ Rays
Brackish Tanks – Estuary Animals
◦ Crab Tank
◦ Aggressive
◦ Eat almost anything
◦ Escape
◦ Sensitive tank
◦ Small fish that are easily attacked
◦ Examples
◦ Pipefish
◦ Seahorses
◦ Nursery Tank
◦ Lookdowns
◦ Juveniles and small fish that hatch and
live in estuary.
◦ Blennies
◦ Usually shrimp eaters.
◦ Predator tank
◦ Few medium sized or single large fish
◦ Eat shrimp or live fish
Parts - Tank
◦Glass or Acrylic held together by silicone.
◦Larger aquariums are more expensive but easier
to maintain water quality
◦Larger base allows for more fish than tall
aquariums of same gallon size
Parts - Filters
◦ Power filter - electric motor to push water
through other components that filter the water
◦ Mechanical filtration – filter bag/cartridge catches small
suspended particles and traps them in mesh
◦ Chemical filtration – activated carbon attracts ionic
based chemicals in the water and traps them in the
rock.
◦ Biological filtration – solid component encourages the
growth of good bacteria and algae that absorb toxic
chemicals and break down organic waste.
◦ Ex. BioBag/BioWheel/BioSponge/BioBalls
Other Filtration
◦ Substrate – gravel, rocks, sand, or
other material on bottom
◦ Collects and contains solid particles
◦ Use syphon with vacuum tube to
clean periodically.
◦ Undergravel filter – plastic part
used under substrate to increase
area for solids to settle.
Parts - Aerators
◦ Aerator Pump, Tube and air stones
◦ Stone breaks air into smaller bubbles allowing more
oxygen to dissolve into water
◦ Some fish need more oxygen than other fish
◦ Our large power filters provide enough
aeration for most fish we catch.
Other Parts and Equipment
◦ Lid – keeps animals and water in; keeps unwanted particles and trash out.
◦ Light – makes tank more visible, some fish need extra UV due to lack of sunshine.
◦ Coral tanks must have a light that provides UV
◦ Decorations – should be chosen based on size of tank and needs of animals.
◦ Fast swimmers – tall ornaments like plants
◦ Slow movers and hiders – larger based ornaments like rocks
◦ Dip Net – used to remove fish, debris, and excess feed
◦ Syphon – used to remove water during water change and take-down.
◦ Side in tank must be higher than side out of tank.
◦ Buckets – used to add and remove water.
Testing – Salinity
◦ Salinity is the amount of dissolved solids (mostly
salts) in solution.
◦ Measured using a hydrometer in class or a
refractometer in the field.
◦ Measure in parts per thousand (ppt)
◦ Hydrometers actually measure density of the
water and this corresponds to a known salinity.
Testing – Temperature
◦ Higher temperature means lower
oxygen
◦ Lower temperature can lower
animals activity levels
◦ Measure using a floating or stick-on
thermometer
◦ Measured in degrees Celsius
Testing – Ammonia
◦ Excreted by animal in wastes
◦ Toxic above 4 ppm (parts per million)
◦ Bacteria are needed to convert to less toxic forms.
(nitrogen cycle)
◦ Measured using a dropper test kit (2 bottles)
◦ Can use chemical such as Ammo Lock if levels are too
high
Testing – pH
◦ Stands for percentage of hydrogen ions
◦ Critical to chemistry of water
◦ Most fish have small pH tolerance range
◦ Low range pH (most freshwater tanks)
◦ 6.8 and 7.2
◦ High range pH (salt, brackish, and a few fresh)
◦ 8.0 and 8.4
◦ Measured using dropper test kit (1 bottle)
◦ Saltwater tanks should be maintained between 7.8 and 8.5 on the pH
scale
If the pH level is not staying within the acceptable range, it could indicate:
a. Lack of bacteria in gravel
b. Excessive organisms in tank
c. Overfeeding (10 min. rule)
d. Not removing dead organisms
e. A non calcareous buffer
To raise the pH (make it more basic)…add NaOH (sodium hydroxide). To lower the pH (make it
more acidic)…add dilute acetic acid (vinegar).
◦ Fish wastes and decay of food particles lower the pH, indicating the need for a calcium
carbonate buffer. A buffer limits the rate at which the pH changes and assists in maintaining
a constant pH. The buffer in our gravel is calcium carbonate, CaCO3.
Testing – Nitrite
◦ Middle step of Nitrogen Cycle
◦ Dangerous at levels above 2 ppm
◦ Bacteria needed to continue to next step
◦ Measured using dropper test kit (1 bottle)
Testing – Nitrate
◦ Final step in Nitrogen Cycle
◦ Dangerous at levels above 80 ppm
◦ Measured using dropper test kit (2 bottles)
◦ Removed from water by algae, plants, or by doing a
water change
Marine Salt
◦ Used to set up a saltwater or brackish water aquarium
◦ Contains Sodium Chloride (NaCl) and Calcium Carbonate
(CaCO2) as well as other important nutrients and minerals
common to sea water
◦ Mix small amounts and pour into aquarium
Other Care
◦Never pour solid salt directly into aquarium
◦Never use table salt in aquarium
◦Dechlorinate or use distilled water
◦Do not leave extra food in aquarium
◦Remove uneaten food
Setting up your tanks:
What to look for…
◦ When you first set up your tank, your tank has to cycle so the biological elements of the filter
are ready to handle the waste produced by the fish. Cloudy or milky water is common
during this process, but it usually does not show up until fairly late in the cycle.
◦ Unfortunately, the only way to get rid of this cloudiness is to have patience. As the cycle runs
its course, this cloudiness will clear up—usually your tank will go from cloudy to nearly crystal
clear overnight—as soon as it is ready.
◦ My Aquarium Water Looks Like Weak Tea, It's Not Milky
◦ Wooden decorations produce a perfectly safe form of cloudiness by releasing tannin into
the water. The tannin will give the water a yellowish or brownish cast, somewhat like very
weak tea. However, these are helpful in softening the water, lowering the pH, boosting
many fishes' immune systems, and often improving the coloration of your fish. Some studies
show that this will increase fish's appetite, reduce stress, and even stimulate spawning. I
have seen the addition of a wooden decoration to the tank stimulate spawning behavior
in some soft-water catfish or tetras that spawn with the spring floods, so this does seem to
have some credibility.
◦ My Fish Tank Is Green!
◦ Green aquarium water is usually a free-floating algae bloom. Though many of the tips for
controlling algae growth in your fish tank are the same as for other forms of cloudiness,
specific tips on algae control may be more helpful.
What Else Causes Aquarium Cloudiness?
◦ Chemicals that have been added to the tank could react with other chemicals in the tank
(or even something in your water) and create a variety of forms of cloudiness. This cloudiness
can be prevented by minimizing the use of chemical additives in the tank.
◦ Also, testing with small amounts of chemicals in water containers may give you an idea of
what could be reacting. In many cases, this cloudiness will be corrected quickly by the
chemical elements of your filter, and, of course, by your regular water changes.
◦ Insufficient water changes can be a cause of cloudiness, as assorted debris collects in the
water or the remnants of fish waste and uneaten fish food begin to float through the water.
Insufficient water changes can also lead to algae or bacteria blooms that will make the
water appear cloudy.
◦ You should perform a weekly 10-15% water change in your aquarium, though you will need
to increase the frequency of these water changes if the tank is still cycling.
◦ Oddly enough, excessive water changes can also cause cloudiness, as removing too much
water from the tank will disturb the bacteria bed that is providing your biological filtration,
and your tank may become cloudy for a few days as the biological filter reestablishes itself.
◦ Regular, frequent, small water changes will help to keep your aquarium clean, clean, and
healthy.
◦ Over feeding, can also cause cloudiness in tanks that have been set up
longer. Remember to feed sparingly. Your fish's stomachs are usually smaller
than their eyes, and they should be able to completely consume all the
food they need in under two minutes.
◦ Overpopulation can also be a a cause of cloudiness in an aquarium. Too
many fish in a tank leads to stress, shortened lives, additional maintenance,
algae growth, and cloudy water. Keeping your tank's population at or
below 1" of fish per gallon of water for small community fresh water fish will
keep this cloudiness under control.
◦ If your tank is insufficiently filtered, or if your filter is not maintained properly,
then the filter will not be able to efficiently process all the water in the tank,
which, like insufficient water changes, can lead to cloudiness directly, or to
algae or bacteria blooms that appear cloudy.
Cleaning your Tanks
◦ When cleaning your aquarium, you should just remove part (10-15%) of the water and replace it with
fresh, dechlorinated tap water (bowls and vases require larger water changes more often). While you
are doing this, you should use your siphon to suck up some of the gunk that collects in the gravel and
decorations. If you have an under gravel filter, it is very important to clean the gravel when you do
your weekly water changes, this will prevent detritus and other decaying organic matter from
blocking the passages between the pebbles and restricting water flow. Generally, you can clean 2533% (1/4-1/3) of the gravel while siphoning out 10-15% of the water.
◦ Once you have siphoned 10-15% of the water from your tank, you will need to fill it again. The easiest
and neatest way to do this, is to use a siphon to siphon water from a bucket into the tank. This will
tend to reduce spilling and messing up the gravel and decorations. Use a bucket that has never had
detergents or household chemicals in it (I recommend getting a bucket specifically for use for
aquarium chores) and fill it with water. The water should be close to the temperature of the tank
water that you just took out (the average person can tell temperature differences within 1/2 degree
Fahrenheit or about 1/4 degree Celsius with their hand, so just feel the water to see if it is the same).
Use a chlorine or chloramine remover to prepare the water for introduction into the tank. Place the
bucket somewhere higher than the top of the fish tank, and get your siphon going again and in just a
couple of minutes, you should have a full tank. Be sure to watch the siphon, in case the hose gets
bumped out of the tank, or if there is enough water in your bucket to overfill the tank. Remember,
there needs to be some space between the top of the water and the aquarium cover, because your
fish rely on oxygen exchange at the surface of the water in order to be able to breathe.
Siphon Vacuuming your tank
How Does an Aquarium Gravel Vacuum Work?
◦ A gravel vacuum operates by churning the gravel around in a column of moving
water to loosen and carry off any debris trapped in the gravel. The power to
operate your gravel vacuum typically comes from a siphon. This same siphon will
carry off the debris the gravel vacuum knocks loose.
◦ To operate the gravel vacuum, you will need to get a siphon started in the tube.
Vacuuming the Gravel
◦ Once you have your siphon started, you will need to place the end of the gravel vacuum
into the gravel. With your finger or thumb blocking the bucket end of the siphon, gently slide
the vacuum end of the gravel vacuum into the gravel. Keep the tube moving in a straight
line, and do not move the vacuum back and forth or up and down (this will just make a
mess).
◦ Once the end of the gravel vacuum is in the gravel as far as it will reasonably go, release
your finger or thumb from the bucket end of the tube. Water should start flowing through the
tube, and the gravel in the tube should start shaking, bouncing, and churning. Debris should
be flowing down the siphon and into the bucket.
◦ Once the water coming through the gravel is mostly clear, stop the flow of the siphon by
placing your finger or thumb over the bucket end of the siphon tube. This should stop the
flow of water and allow the gravel to settle.
◦ Gently extract the gravel vacuum from the gravel, keeping your motion as straight as
possible. Again, shaking the vacuum around or bouncing it up and down will just release the
debris from the gravel into the aquarium water, rather than into the bucket through the
siphon.
◦ Your goal is to be removing this debris from the water, not loosening it up into the aquarium.
◦ Once you have pulled the gravel vacuum out of the gravel, move it over an adjacent piece
of gravel and re-insert it.
◦ Remember, smooth and straight, without any shaking or up and down motions.
◦ Again, release your finger from the bucket end of the siphon and allow the water to flow,
carrying the debris from this section of the water along with it.
◦ Repeat this process until you have cleaned 1/4 - 1/3 of the gravel. Of course, remember to stop if
your bucket gets full so you can empty the bucket before making a mess.
◦ If, at any time, the gravel gets too high in the gravel vacuum, you can easily release the gravel from
the vacuum by plugging the other end of the siphon tube with your finger or thumb.
◦ You will get best results if you place the end of the gravel vacuum deep into the gravel, and
do not move it until it has pulled all the debris out of that section of the gravel. Moving the
gravel vac. excessively, or pulling it up and down while the siphon is running will lead to a
less efficiently cleaned tank and can stir up a lot of debris that would otherwise be drawn
through the siphon and into the bucket.
Beneficial Bacteria
◦A certain amount of heterotrophic bacteria are
necessary and beneficial in a tank as they help break
down fish waste.
◦When heterotrophic bacteria are left alone and
undisturbed in aquarium gravel or substrate, they go
unnoticed, quietly doing their job breaking down
waste.
Bacterial Bloom
◦ this is a condition in which a sudden increase in the number of bacterial colonies occurs,
specifically bacteria that are suspended in the water column. The bacteria grows so rapidly
that collectively they become visible to the naked eye, causing the water to become cloudy
or milky in appearance. Sometimes the blossom is so severe it is difficult to see the fish.
◦ This condition most often is seen in a newly started aquarium, but can also occur in a tank in
which there is has been an increase in the nutrients in the water, particularly nitrates and
phosphates. This can happen if several fish die and are not promptly removed, or if plants die
off and are not removed. Excessive feeding of fish, without cleaning the debris can also
cause a sharp increase in nutrients that result in bacterial bloom.
◦ A Bacterial Bloom is Part of the Nitrogen Cycle
There are 2 types of bacteria at work in aqiariums:◦ Autotrophic Bacteria - Bacteria capable of synthesizing its own food from inorganic
substances, using light or chemical energy. In responce; the beneficial filter bacteria are
autotrophs.
◦ Heterotrophic Bacteria - Bacteria that cannot synthesize its own food and is dependent on
complex organic substances for nutrition. The heterotrophs in the aquariums mineralise the
organic waste (break down the uneaten food, fish waste, dead plant matter etc into
ammonia).
◦ It is the heterotrophs which are primarily responsible for creating the "bio-film"
(slimy residue found on the tank walls and ornaments) which builds up in the
"new water" aquarium.
◦ The heterotrophs are generally bigger than the autotrophs and therefore don't
attach themselves to surfaces with the same ease. They also reproduce much
more quickly. Heterotrophs can reproduce in around 15 - 20 minutes, whereas
autotrophs can take up to 24 hours to reproduce.
◦ In a newly set-up aquarium, the heterotrophs get to work quicker than the
autotrophs, causing the 'cycling bloom' so often seen. Blooms are almost
certainly heterotrophic if they are caused by a build up of organic waste in
the substrate, which most, if not all, are.
◦ Bacterial blooms are common in tanks with apparently no organics present (for
example, where all that is in the tank is water and ammonia for a fishless cycle).
◦ This is caused by the de-chlorination of the water suddenly enabling the water to
support bacterial populations.
◦ The heterotrophs immediately get to work on the organics in the water itself. The
severity of the bloom and even whether a bloom happens at all is dependent
upon the level of organics contained in the water supply.
NITROGEN
CYCLE
IN A FISH
TANK
Like all living creatures, fish give off waste products (pee and poo).
These nitrogenous waste products break down into ammonia (NH3), which is highly toxic to most
fishes.
In nature, the volume of water per fish is extremely high, and waste products become diluted to
low concentrations.
In aquariums, however, it can take as little as a few hours for ammonia concentrations to reach
toxic levels.
How much ammonia is too much? The quick answer is: if a test kit is able to measure it,
you've got too much
The "nitrogen cycle" is the biological process that converts ammonia into other, relatively harmless
nitrogen compounds.
Fortunately, several species of bacteria do this conversion for us.
In particular, Nitrosomonas species (among others) convert ammonia (NH3) to nitrite (N02-), while
Nitrobacter species (among others) convert nitrite to nitrate (NO3-).
Thus, cycling the tank refers to the process of establishing bacterial colonies in the filter bed that
convert …
ammonia->nitrite->nitrates.
NITROGEN CYCLE
◦ Briefly, the Nitrogen Cycle is a biological process that involves the continual circulation of
nitrogenous compounds such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrate to process wastes in the natural
water. In a closed aquarium, this cycle must be established in what is commonly called the
Nitrogen Cycle.
◦ This cycle is established over time, it usually takes up to 3 months before a new aquarium is
fully cycled
◦ Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are the main biological toxins found in the aquarium, so it is
important that the nitrogen cycle works effectively to remove these pollutants.
◦ It is natural to want to fill a new aquarium with the largest prettiest fish you can find and feed
them all they seem to want to eat. However, without the good bacteria which builds up in
an aquarium over time, in other words until the aquarium has cycled, the likelihood is many
of your new fish will die.
◦ Once more if you do not remove the dead fish quickly, their decay will cause an even more
toxic situation and you will lose the rest of the fish. Please pay attention, cycle your
aquarium, add fish gradually and feed sparingly. If you give your aquarium time to “cycle”
you will have a happy healthy aquarium long into the future.
◦ Statistically, as much as 60% of the fish sold for a new aquarium
will die within the first 30 days. Two out of every three new
aquarists abandon the hobby within the first year.
◦ Known as "New Tank Syndrome" these fish are poisoned by high
levels of ammonia (NH3) that is produced by the bacterial
mineralization of fish wastes, excess food, and the decomposition
of animal and plant tissues.
◦ Additional ammonia is excreted directly into the water by the fish
themselves.
◦ The effects of ammonia poisoning in fish are well documented.
◦ These effects include: extensive damage to tissues, especially the
gills and kidney; physiological imbalances; impaired growth;
decreased resistance to disease, and; death.
◦ Nitrite poisoning inhibits the uptake of oxygen by red blood cells
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Fish wastes (overpopulation)
Uneaten food (overfeeding)
Nitrates
Ammonia
Filters slow down the rate of pollution, but do not completely
remove pollutants.
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There are 3 nitrogen compounds of importance
1.
2.
3.
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NH3 –- (Ammonia ) is the most toxic …
NO2 --(Nitrite - isn’t right)…and
NO3-- (Nitrate - is great!) Still toxic but the least).
Two types of bacteria:
◦ NITROSOMONAS and NITROBACTERS, live in our tank gravel.
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NH3(Ammonia) is converted into NO2(Nitrites) by the bacteria, Nitrosomonas and
Nitrobacters.
NO2(Nitrite) is then converted into NO3(Nitrate). NO3 is the least toxic.
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NH3 –> NO2 –> NO3
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(ammonia  nitrite -> nitrate)
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◦ Excessive amounts of NH3 will cause immediate harm to organisms.
◦ Excessive amounts of NO2 will cause harm, although it will be delayed longer.
◦ Excessive amounts of NO3 will cause harm only after long periods of time.
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It is necessary to remove and replace about 1/3 of the total water from our tanks about every 1½
months as needed.
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Elevated nitrates are a significant contributor to undesirable algae growth.
Nitrate levels as low as 10 ppm will promote algae growth.
Algae blooms in newly setup tanks are usually due to elevated nitrate levels.
Although plants utilize nitrates, if nitrates rise faster than the plants can use them, the
plants can become overgrown with algae, ultimately leading to their demise.
Water used to fill the aquarium often has nitrates in it. In the United States, drinking
water may have nitrates as high as 40 ppm.
In nature nitrates remain very low, generally well below 5 ppm.
In freshwater aquariums nitrates should be kept below 50 pm at all times, preferably
below 25 ppm
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Keep the tank clean –
◦ Waste ultimately produces nitrates. Cleaner tanks produce fewer nitrates in the first place.
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Don’t overfeed the fish –
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Overfeeding is a significant contributor to excess nitrates and other undesirable wastes, such as
phosphates.
Water changes –
◦ Performing regular water changes with water that has little or no nitrates will lower the overall nitrate level
in the tank.
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Keep live plants –
◦ Live plants utilize nitrates, and will help keep nitrates in check.
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Use nitrogen removing filter media –
◦ Instead of an expensive denitrator or special filter, use special media in the filter you have.
◦ Although they will not lower nitrates dramatically, if used together with other methods the net result will
be beneficial.
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Check water levels for nitrate and ammonia.
◦ Anything above 0—do a partial water change.
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Use a siphon to remove uneaten food and other debris from
the gravel.
Clean rocks that have accumulated algae.
When adding water, be sure to dechlorinate!!!
Add water slowly to avoid shock.
Avoid complete water changes.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Failure to de-chlorinate the water
Rapid temperature changes
Overfeeding
Poor water quality
Fish incompatibility
Fish vs. filter
Improper handling of fish
Fish suicide (leaping out of aquarium)
FISH REPRODUCTION
AND LIFE CYCLE
Aquarium fish mate, spawn and reproduce in a huge variety of ways.
However, despite the vast range of specifics, fishes methods of reproduction fall into several broad
categories.
For example, the actual act of mating can be grouped into internal or external fertilization.
Placement and care of the eggs breaks down into several further categories.
Mating and spawning are a major part of a fish's life history, and can help you understand much about
an aquarium fish.
All fish fit into one of two categories:
those that practice internal fertilization and those that practice external fertilization.
Mammals, like humans, use internal fertilization.
Several vastly different groups of fishes mate this way, including guppies and sharks.
Both egg-laying and live-bearing fishes can use internal fertilization.
However, internal fertilization is not the norm for fish, and the majority of species use external
fertilization.
In this mating system, eggs and sperm are released separately and are fertilized outside of the body.
Live-Bearers
In the aquarium, fish who give live birth are called live-bearers.
The guppy falls into this group.
Live-bearers exclusively use internal fertilization.
In these fish, modified fins are used to transfer sperm from the male to the female.
These specialized fins have different names, including andropodium, gonopodium or claspers
depending on the species.
Guppies and their relatives have a trait called superfoetation, which allows them to produce multiple
batches of offspring from a single mating.
In most live-bearers, females store the eggs, providing them with protection but not additional nutrition.
However, in a distant relatives of the guppy, the mother provides nutrition to her developing embryo
through a placenta-like organ.
Common live-bearers such as guppies can often spawn quickly and easily in the home aquarium.
Broadcast Spawners
Both fish and invertebrates may spawn through broadcast spawning.
In this form of external fertilization, sperm and eggs are both released around the same time in
approximately the same area and fertilization is left to chance.
Broadcast spawning fish provide no parental care.
The young must fend for themselves among the currents, eventually developing into adults.
This helps scatter individuals over vast distances, helping the species survive.
Egg Scatterers
Egg scattering falls into the category of external fertilization.
Males and females chase each other around and release sperm and eggs at the same time.
This scatters fertilized eggs over gravel or plants.
Most fish who spawn by this method have no parental care, and may eat their eggs.
To combat this, aquarium hobbyists often use dense thickets of aquarium plants, spawning mops or a
layer of marbles to help keep some of the eggs safe from their parents.
This form of breeding is seen widely among the minnow family and similar families of fish including the
characins/tetras.
The majority of popular egg laying fish is members of the carp group, the two main families
of which are the characins or Tetras and the barbs
Mouth Breeding Fish
In mouth-brooders, fish spawn and raise their young using their mouth.
Eggs are released and fertilized, usually externally.
However, what makes mouth-brooders distinct is that one of the parents keeps the fertilized
eggs and eventually the young fish in his mouth to protect them during development.
Either the father or the mother may hold the eggs depending on the species.
This behavior is seen among some species of bettas, cichlids as well as other groups of fish.
In bettas, mouth-brooding is most common in river-dwelling species than bettas who reproduce
in still waters such as ponds or rice paddies.
Fish who Nest
Many fish use various structures to spawn, including structures made by the fish themselves.
Some spawn on substrate or other existing structures such as caves or even snail shells.
Cave-spawning and substrate-spawning are common in the cichlid family.
Some fish take this a step further and create relatively elaborate nests.
For example, some species of betta make nests out of bubbles and bits of plants.
Nest- and structure-using fishes often exhibit various degrees of parental care.
This type of spawning can come from both internal and external fertilization, depending on the species.
Fertilization
◦ Internal: sperm is transferred to female through the act of copulation; mainly
Chondrichthyes (claspers)
◦ External: (Broadcast spawning) release gametes into the water; most common in
Agnatha and Osteichthyes.
Development
◦ Oviparous: eggs develop outside of the mother’s body; embryo receives nutrients from
the yolk sac
◦ Ovoviviparous: retain the eggs within the mother’s body for protection; embryo
receives nutrients from the yolk sac
◦ Viviparous: embryo absorbs nutrients from the wall of the mother’s reproductive tract
Look for mating rituals.
Different fish species can behave very differently during pair-bonding, amplexus, and other matingrelated behaviors.
In many species, including most gouramis, the male chases the females around energetically,
sometimes even causing scrapes, bites, or other damage.
In others, such as discus, a male and a female will work together to defend one area of the tank from
other fish.
In either case, when actual mating occurs, this may involve the male and female gripping each other,
turning upside down, wriggling around each other, or more subtle activities that are difficult to see
Check for a pregnancy bulge.
The female fish will grow a bulge at the back of the
abdomen.
The abdomen typically grows over the course of 20–40
days, either into a large, rounded shape or a "boxy" shape.
Some species such as balloon mollies have a natural bulge
further forward, just below the gills.
Overweight males may develop a bulge in the front chest.
If you skip feedings for two or three days, an overweight
bulge may shrink, while a female's pregnancy bulge will
note.
Look for a red or black spot.
Pregnant female fish often develop a "gravid spot"
on the abdomen near the rear vent.
This is typically black or bright red, and grows more
pronounced over the course of the pregnancy.
Some fish always have this spot, but it will typically
grow brighter or darker during once the fish is
pregnant.
Parthenogenesis
◦ The development of an egg into a normal embryo without fertilization by sperm.
◦ Rare but does happen in sharks and some bony fish
◦ A.k.a. virgin birth
Reproductive Oddities
◦ Sex reversal: individuals begin as one sex and switch to the opposite sex.
◦ Example: anemone fish
Sea anemone is inhabited by one large female that mates with a large dominant male.
Others living in the4 anemone are small, non-breeding males. When female dies or is
removed the male becomes female and the largest non breeding male becomes the
new dominant male.
http://dogsbreathdivers.com/marinelife/fish.htm
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Active and healthy
No sick or dead fish in the aquariumas soon as see dead fish, must take out, and throw away, clean up tank,
possible ¼- water change… (check ph and nitrates/nitrite levels)
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Ask questions- see your information cards!!!
What does it eat?
How big does it get?
Is it a schooling fish? (if so, buy several)
Is it aggressive or territorial?
Are there any special care requirements?
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Choose less expensive fish to start.
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Gourami
Danio
Tetra
Molly
Cory Cat
Platy
Guppy
Swordtail
Betta—no more than one male per aquarium
Although it’s fun to have many types of fish, many fish need different conditions. It might
not be possible to keep them all healthy in the same aquarium. Some fish are more
aggressive than others, and some fish prefer to travel in schools. Some easy fish to care for
are listed below.
 Guppies—these swim in schools, so include at least four, but it’s better to have six or
more.
 Swordtails—these fish are very attractive, but putting too many males in one aquarium
may cause them to fight. Consider having only one male.
 Platy fish —a large variety of colors and sizes are available. They travel in schools, so
include at least four, but it’s better to have six or more.
 Betta fish —these fish are beautiful, but male betas are very aggressive towards one
another. You may want to provide plenty of hiding spots in your tank.
 Danios —another group of fast swimmers that are easy for beginners. They are good
jumpers, so a tight lid is important
 Tetras—these fish are easy to care for and are stunning. They must travel in schools.
 Other options could include plants to provide oxygen and hiding places for the tank.
Snails will eat the algae that form on the side of the tank.
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Fish can only survive in the plastic bag for a short period of
time—not overnight.
◦ If you must keep them at home overnight, you will need an aerator or
other method of providing oxygen to your fish.
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Float the bag of fish in the aquarium for 10-15 minutes
before releasing them IF there is a drastic difference in water
temperature.
Avoid adding the water from the bag to the aquarium as much
as possible.