Transcript Chapter Thirteen - Delmar

Chapter 13
Curing, Sausage Making,
and Smoking
© 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.
Perspectives in Curing Meats and Seafood
• Records date curing methods back to 3000
BC
• Sumerians salted meats for preservation
• Chinese and Greeks consumed salted fish for
many years before passing the knowledge to
the Romans
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Curing Foods
• Guidelines to follow:
– The size and shape of the piece of meat being cured is
important; it will determine how long the process will
take.
– The regularity of the shape will determine how to choose
the curing method
– The delicacy of the food should be evaluated because it
would not take a very strong solution of dry mix to cure
a tender sea scallop, as compared with a dense ox tongue
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Curing Foods
• Guidelines to follow:
– In order to emphasize the color more obviously, the cure
must be light and briefly used
– The introduction of dry flavoring agents into the cure,
such as herbs and spices, would suggest the use of a dry
rub as the best choice among the alternatives
– The use of liquid flavoring agents, such as boiled and
chilled wines or spirits, would suggest the use of wet
brine as the best choice among alternatives
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Curing Foods
• Guidelines to follow:
– The strength of the cure has to be determined
because certain foods will need stronger cures to
penetrate them, compared with others
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Basic Curing Methods
• Dry curing:
– Application of dry curing mix directly onto the
meat
– Produces a product with very low moisture
content
– Takes the longest amount of time to complete
– Used for hams, bacon, salt pork, salmon lox, and
other smaller cuts of meat
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Basic Curing Methods
• Dry sugar curing:
– Involves the addition of sugar and nitrate and/or
nitrite to the salt being applied directly to the
surface of the meat
– Always done in the refrigerator
– Used for foie gras, fish fillets, poultry, game, and
smaller cuts of meat
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Basic Curing Methods
• Brine curing:
– Mixing salt, nitrite, or nitrate and/or sugar with
water
– Soaking for a specific amount of time in
refrigeration
– Used for larger cuts of meat and poultry—hams,
turkeys, andr whole chickens and fish
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Basic Curing Methods
• Brine curing:
– Process may be accelerated by:
• Stitch pumping: inserting a needle with multiple holes
in the end into the meat and injecting brine into the
flesh so that it cures from the inside as well as outside
• Artery injection: inserting a needle with a single hole
into the brachial or femoral artery to flood the arterial
system and cure from the inside as well as outside
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Basic Curing Methods
• Brine curing:
– Process may be accelerated by:
• Needle injection: (most common) using a machine that contains
multiple needles automatically injecting meats with the brining
solution
• Sausage curing:
– Used to make cured sausages; however, it differs because
the meat is ground when curing salt and spices are mixed
into the meat resulting in the cure getting directly to the
meat
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Basic Curing Methods
• Combination curing:
– Combines dry rub cure with injection of brine
solution
– Generally used for hams and other larger pieces
of meat
– Shortens curing time and reduces chance of
spoilage
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Ingredients Used in Curing and
Sausage Making
• Salt
–
–
–
–
–
Most important ingredient
Should be highest grade possible
Will enhance flavor
Acts as a microbial inhibitor
Assists in the binding qualities of dry cured meat and
sausages
– Responsible for the “setting up” or “stiffening” of the
meat
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Ingredients Used in Curing and
Sausage Making
• Natural Sugars
–
–
–
–
Maple, brown sugar, honey, and molasses
Acts as flavoring agent
Counteracts harshness of salt in recipe
Caramelized white sugar may be used to enhance
browning properties of the sausage during cooking
– Modified sweeteners: corn syrup solids, dextrose, and
crystalline fructose are used for their binding qualities and
lighter sweetening power
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Ingredients Used in Curing and
Sausage Making
• Sodium Nitrite
– Improves flavor
– Forms the cured pink color of the food after
cooking
– Retards rancidity
– Helps to reduce microbial growth
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Ingredients Used in Curing
and
Sausage Making
• Prague Powder #1
– Known as modern cure #1 or tinted cure mix
– Composed of 1 ounce (28 g) sodium nitrite and 1
pound (457 g) salt
– Used for curing all meats that are to be cooked,
smoked, or canned
– One ounce will cure 25 pounds (11.34 kg) of
meat or sausage; 1 teaspoon will cure 5 pounds
(2.27 kg) of meat or sausage
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Ingredients Used in Curing
and
Sausage Making
• Prague Power #2
– Known as modern cure #2 or tinted cure mix #2
– Composed of 1 ounce (28 g) sodium nitrite, .64 ounce
(18 g) of sodium nitrate, and 1 pound salt
– Used for curing products that do not require cooking,
smoking, or refrigeration
– One ounce (28 g) will cure 25 pounds (11.34 kg) of meat
or sausage; 1 teaspoon will cure 5 pounds (2.27 kg) of
meat or sausage
– Time released, breaking down into sodium nitrite, then
nitric oxide to cure meat over an extended period of time
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Ingredients Used in Curing and
Sausage Making
• Fresh Ground Spices and Dried Herbs
– Used to make rub or dry cure mixes that will be
packed onto pieces of meat for curing
– For sausages, they are incorporated into the meat
– Whole spices can be roasted and added to brines
for extra flavor as well as crushed for dry rubs
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Ingredients Used in Curing and
Sausage Making
• Water
– Used for production of brines
– Should be boiled and cooled before using to
purify
– Should be very cold for sausage making
– Generally 1 pint per 10 pounds (4.54 kg) meat
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Ingredients Used in Curing and
Sausage Making
• Powdered Dextrose
–
–
–
–
A sweetener used in sausage making
70% as sweet as sugar
Used in dry cured and semi-dry cured sausages
Aids in fermentation, giving sausage the required amount
of tang
– Helps reduce the harshness of salt
– Helps with browning during smoking and cooking
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Ingredients Used in Curing and
Sausage Making
• Soy Protein Concentrate and Nonfat Dry
Milk
– Help retain the juices of the meat and to bind the
meat well together
– Contribute to the weight of the finished product
– Makes sausage easier to slice
– Helps the sausage hold its shape when sliced
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Ingredients Used in Curing and
Sausage Making
• Corn Syrup Solids
– Add flavor and help fermentation
– Good binding agents for sausages that are
cooked at low temperatures
– Help hold the color in the sausages, especially
when they are to be displayed under fluorescent
light, which bleaches the color
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Preparing and Curing Shellfish
• Clean the shell fish well, and ensure that they
are very fresh
• Prepare brine made of 1 cup salt to 1 gallon
water, and presoak the shellfish in the brine
for 30 minutes
• Rinse in fresh, clean water and dry
thoroughly
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Preparing and Curing Fish
• Scale the fish well, cleaning the skin thoroughly
• Fillet the fish and remove any pin bones
• For large fillets, periodically remove 2-inch slices of
the skin down the back of the fillet so the dry cure
can act from both sides
• Small white or oily fish can be filleted with the skin
still attached, split down the back with the bone and
head still attached, left whole with the bone slit to
the skin from the inside, or filleted and skinned
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Preparing and Curing Fish
• Prepare the brine of 1 cup salt and 1 gallon water
• Place the fillets in the brine for 30 minutes to soak
out any blood diffused through the flesh
• Rinse in fresh water and dry thoroughly
• The ingredients of the brines and cures can be
altered to create differing flavors with other
ingredients; however, the quantities of cure mix and
salt should remain the same
• The fillets are ready for the dry cure
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Brining Meat, Poultry, and Game
• Considerations:
– Foods that have thick or tough skin create a barrier to
brines
– Products with a considerable layer of fat on the exterior
– The density of the meats
– Large pieces of meat that contain bone in the center
– Very large and tough poultry and game birds
– Products that contain bone with marrow
– Ensuring that the meats are completely submerged in the
brine
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Classifications of Sausage
• Cooked Sausage
– Made with fresh meats, then fully cooked and sold as is.
– Commonly eaten cold
– Examples: braunschweiger, veal sausage, liver sausage
• Cooked Smoked Sausage
– Same as cooked sausage, but is smoke-cooked or cooked,
then smoked
– Can be eaten hot or cold
– Examples: wieners, keilbasa, bologna
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Classifications of Sausage
• Fresh Sausage
– Made from fresh meats that have not been cured
– Must be refrigerated and thoroughly cooked before eating
– Examples: boerewors, sweet Italian, fresh breakfast
• Fresh Smoked Sausage
– Fresh sausage that is smoked, refrigerated, and cooked
before eating
– Examples: Mettwurst, andouille
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Classifications of Sausage
• Dry Sausage
–
–
–
–
–
Most complex of all sausages
Made from a variety of meats
Ready to eat when drying process is complete
Will keep for long periods under refrigeration
Examples: salami, summer sausage
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Sausage Making Equipment
• The grinder should always be secured and
completely stationary for use
• Always refrigerate the grinder parts before use
• Never freeze the grinder parts because food will
stick
• After washing, lightly oil the attachments before
chilling
• Clean the grinder well, being careful to reach inside
the grinder body and the holes on the blades
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Sausage Making Equipment
• Do not overfill the grinder or force food through
• Assemble the parts correctly; the most common
mistake is facing the blades in the wrong direction
• Never use a metal spoon to push the meat through;
always use the plastic or wooden implement
provided
• Soak or wash immediately; do not allow the meat
particles to dry on the machine parts
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Meat Grinder Assembly
• Attach the chilled grinder head to the machine,
making sure that the pin fits into the hole on the
machine. This will lock the head in place and
prevent it from spinning
• Slide the auger (worm) into the opening, ensuring it
is properly lined up and fully inserted
• Place the knife blade, with flat part facing outward,
onto the end of the auger
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Meat Grinder Assembly
• Secure the chilled grinder die onto the auger,
lining up the pin on the bottom of the auger
with the hole in the base of the die
• Attach the collar and turn to secure
• Add the feeding tray
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Sausage Stuffer
• Basic Rules:
– Sanitize all equipment well, ensuring that the
smaller pieces are thoroughly cleansed
– Check that the air pressure valve is working and
in position before use
– Always understand the possibility of the stuffer
crank handle slipping and reversing one full crank
due to the pressure buildup in the chamber
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Sausage Stuffer
• Basic Rules:
– Make sure the stuffer is well secured and
stationary during the stuffing
– Always assemble correctly with accurate guidance
and instruction
– Do not operate the stuffer on your own; always
have one person cranking the machine, while
another handles the sausage
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Using the Sausage Stuffer
• Chill all parts of the stuffing machine before use
• Secure the correct sausage horn on the bottom of
the meat chamber
• Place the O ring and the air pressure valve onto the
piston
• Place the crank handle on the low gear
• Apply the skin onto the horn and prepare to crank
• Release the air as you go, to avoid a buildup of
pressure
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Other Equipment
• Large Plastic, Nonreactive Tubs:
– Hold a large amount of product
– Serve as curing tubs for meats
• Sausage Knife:
– Eliminates holes under the skin of the sausage
• Hog Staplers or Hog Ring Pliers:
– Close larger sausages requiring filling under pressure
– Ensure a tight seal
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Casings
• Natural
– Allows the skin to accept smoke more readily
– Sold in 100-yard lengths as hank, bundle, cap, or
by the ounce
• Preflushed skins
– Ready to use, but tangle easily
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Natural Casings
• Lamb and Sheep
– Difficult to use
– Used for breakfast sausage, frankfurters, fresh pork
sausage, and usually fish and shellfish sausage
• Pig or Hog
– Most popular casing
– Used for almost any sausage of that general diameter
– Versatile and easy to handle
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Natural Casings
• Beef Casings
– Beef
• Larger and used for larger-style sausage
– Beef rounds
• From small intestines
• Used for production of bologna, mettwurst, liver, blood, and
Polish sausage
– Beef middles
• Vary in width but can stuff approximately 80 to 90 pounds of
meat
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Natural Casings
• Beef Casings
– Beef bung, appendix, beef bladder
• Very large
• Not used in restaurant situations
• Used to make capocolla, large bologna, and cooked
salamis
• Bladders are most famous for production of the
Mortadella
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Fresh Casings
• Advantages
– They look more like a natural product
– They will cook well and taste extremely good by almost
any method of cooking
– They have better flavor
– They accept other flavors (other than smoke) well
– They can be stuffed with a greater variety of food
products
– They will shrink equally with the meat during the drying
stage
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Collagen Casings
• Available in the variety of sizes of natural casings
• Generally used for smoked sausages, and not as
common for fresh sausages
• Accept smoke very well, giving a wide variety of
shades of a wonderful mahogany color
• Accept smoke so quickly that the smoking period
can be shortened
• Available in a colored form to imitate smoking
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Collagen Casings
• Much easier to use, because there is no
tangling or preparation beforehand
• Available in an accordion style, which makes
it easier to load greater quantities onto the
sausage horn
• Slightly stronger than fresh skins and less
likely to break during stuffing
• Need very little time to soak before use
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Synthetic Casings
• Available in 2 forms: plastic and synthetic
– Advantages
• Strong and durable during stuffing, ensuring a tightly packed
sausage, which makes slicing easy, for good portion control
• Very convenient, cleaned, and ready to use
• They coat the outside of a sausage during the drying process
• Easy to store and do not need refrigeration
• Not meat-based making them appropriate for fish, poultry, or
vegetable sausage
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Preparing and Selecting Meat
• Most sausage should contain at least 25% of
its weight in fat
• When the protein is of finer consistency, as
in fish and shell fish, the fats used should be
more refined and better flavored
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Cutting and Grinding
• Rules:
– Start by sanitizing the table, cutting board, meat
tubs, grinding equipment, and knives
– Use only the best quality and most suitable cuts
of meat
– Bone the meat carefully, removing all bones and
splinters
– Always make sure that the proportion of fat to
meat is correct
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Cutting and Grinding
• Rules:
– Remove the gristle, sinew, blood spots and excess
fat from the meat
– Make the meat the appropriate size for the
grinder.
– Do not store the cut meat too long after it is cut
– Make sure the meat is very cold before grinding
– Always measure the ratio of spice to meat
accurately
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Grinding the Meats
• Precautions:
– Always grind starting with the large-holed die;
second and possibly third grinds are made with
sequentially smaller-holed die
– Have the meat and the grinder very well chilled
– Make sure that the fat is well distributed within
the mix
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Grinding the Meats
• Always feed the meat through easily with
limited pressure
• Have the correct size of container to receive
the ground product; the container should be
twice the capacity of the ground meat so that
it can be easily mixed
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Adding Water and Spices
• Distribute spices evenly
• Mix well with ice-cold water (1 pint per 10 pounds
of meat) first, then add
• Addition of water adds lubrication during the
stuffing process also
• Addition of water adds moisture in the texture of
the cooked sausage
• Addition of water aid in cooling during the stuffing
process
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Stuffing and Storage
• Precautions:
– When placing the meat into the stuffer, pack it down well,
eliminating as many air pockets as possible
– Ensure that the casing to be stuffed is very wet inside and
outside
– Crank slowly at first, until the meat reaches past the open
end of the skin
– Tie the skin into a strong knot and begin to stuff
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Stuffing and Storage
• Precautions:
– Eliminate any air pockets that develop using the sausage
prong
– Always ensure that the casing is in front of the horn and
free from twists or obstructions
– Link the sausage in appropriate lengths and store in the
refrigerator at once or put straight into the smoker
– Twist the sausage at desired lengths or tie with twine
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Elements of Smoking
• Smoking Chamber:
– Chamber should be of the appropriate size for quantity
of product
– It should be able to hang smoke sticks as well as receive
large sheet pans or screen for supporting resting products
– It should have easy access for loading, with a well-sealed
door
– It should have effective dampers for releasing moisture
and smoke
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Elements of Smoking
• The Dampers:
– Control the flow of smoke and can affect the
color of the finished product
– Draft control at base of chamber creates air flow
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Elements of Smoking
• Heat Source:
– Wood, peat, pellet, gas, electric
– Should be accurate and reliable in order to
monitor cooking process
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Elements of Smoking
• Smoke Source:
– Exterior is more versatile and controllable
– Used for both cold and hot smoking
– Should be fitted with a fan to allow for controlled
flow
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Elements of Smoking
• Humidity Control:
– Allows for a greater range of products including
dried and semi-dried sausages and meats
– Ideal conditions for drying should be between
45ºF and 55ºF (7.2ºC and 12.8ºC) with a
humidity of 70% to 72%
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Elements of Smoking
• Fuel:
– Should be selected carefully because it will affect
the flavor of the finished product
– A combination of oak, alder, and mesquite
generally provides the best results
– Fruit woods: cherry and apple, contain tar
compounds, and should be used sparingly or in
combination with hard woods
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Elements of Smoking
• Fuel:
– Soaking before use helps give a colder smoke and
better final product
– Soaked rice, tea leaves, spices, specialty woods,
dried fruit skins, peat moss, and plant leaves are
examples of fuel alternatives
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Cold and Hot Smoking
• Cold Smoking
– Heat source is off
– Controlled smoke flow blown over food
– Time and amount of smoke differ by recipe and should
be carefully monitored
– Alternately, the food can be trapped between two layers
of ice on pans, and the smoke and heat source can be
directly below the ice, thus preventing the heat from
negatively affecting the product
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Cold and Hot Smoking
• Hot Smoking
– Controlled heat and smoke application over a
long period of time
– Food cooks and smokes evenly, rendering a fully
smoked and cooked end product
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Smoking
• Basic Rules:
– Use tested recipes
– Follow the recipe’s recommended times,
temperatures, and humidity readings accurately
– Ensure that the products to be smoked are
allowed sufficient time to air dry, usually 3 to 5
hours depending on their size, before adding
them to the smoker
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Smoking
• Basic Rules:
– When air drying sausages, they should be hung on the
smoke sticks on which they will eventually be smoked
– Always make sure the sausage stays cool during the
drying process or bacteria will develop
– When the product goes into the smoker, continue the
drying process by initially opening the dampers fully, to
allow the excess moisture to escape and not settle on the
product
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Smoking
• Basic Rules:
– Excess heat at the beginning of the smoking
process will create sweating and moisture will
build up on the surface of the sausage
– Excess heat at this stage can cause the fat to run
before the skin has dried and coagulated
– Cook the sausage to an internal temperature of
152ºF (66.8ºC) in order to avoid spoilage
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Smoking
• Basic Rules:
– When sausage is cooked, shower it well with cold water to
avoid shriveling and development of surface wrinkles
– If wrinkles develop, poach lightly in hot water for a short
time, but the showering process has to be repeated
– Once the sausage has been removed and showered, it
should hang at room temperature to develop more color
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Barbecue
• Fuel
– Charcoal briquettes
• Burn easily and evenly
• Combustion-enhancing chemical will affect the flavor
of the food
– Lump hardwood charcoal
• All natural, no additives
• Add wonderful flavor and aroma to food
• Burns very easily and is hotter than briquettes
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Barbecue
• Fuel
– Hardwoods
• Ideal for imparting characteristic flavor and aroma
• Very unpredictable, uneven burning, lose heat quickly
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Barbecue
• Cooking
– Direct Heat
• Food is placed on the grill over direct heat
• For smaller pieces of tender meats, firm-fleshed fish,
shellfish, poultry, game, and vegetables
• Fuel can be briquettes, lump hardwood charcoal,
wood, or gas
• Meat can be marinated or rubbed
• Temperature should be between 350ºF (177ºC) and
550ºF (288ºC)
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Barbecue
• Cooking
– Indirect Heat
• Used for large pieces of meat, racks of ribs, fish containing
bone, poultry containing bone, and larger pieces of food that
would burn before being fully cooked over direct heat
• Temperatures are normally at the 350ºF (177ºC) range, and fuel
is added periodically to continue the cooking process
• Food can be marinated, rubbed, or have sauce added during
cooking
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Barbecue
• Cooking
– Slow Smoking
• Food is covered in the smoker or any enclosed container, and
smoke is applied, maintaining a temperature between 200ºF
(93ºC) and 220ºF (104ºC) for a long, slow cooking period.
• Used for tougher, larger pieces of meats such as briskets, racks
of ribs, pork butts, whole pigs, shanks, and poultry with or
without bone
• Larger, firm-fleshed fish as well as shellfish may be cooked this
way
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Barbecue
• Cooking
– Pit
• Use of a large structure for larger pieces of meat or
whole animals
• Is closed to create the smoke and heat needed to cook
food correctly
• Can be a hole in the ground, free-standing cement,
brick, or metal oven that in some cases has a special
lining of clay, to create more flavor
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Barbecue Seasonings
• Cures and brines are used to flavor food that
are to be smoked or grilled, and they change
the texture of the meats as well as render a
moister finished product
• Marinades are highly flavored liquids used to
tenderize and flavor food; they may be used
to baste the meat during the cooking process
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Barbecue Seasonings
• Dry rubs are combinations of dry ingredients
that are rubbed well into the meats before
cooking
• Made from a combination of herbs, spices,
sugars, salts, and dehydrated zests, barks,
fruits, and vegetables
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Barbecue Seasonings
• Pastes are similar to dry rubs but are combined with
thick mustard, bottled Asian sauce, peanut butter, or
ketchup
• Glazes, or mops, are any of the sauces that are
glazed or basted onto the foods while they cook
• Dipping sauces or sops can be any sauce or style of
ketchup that is served by the plate of food to be
used as a dipping sauce or for sopping up the meats
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Barbecue Seasonings
• Barbecue sauces are rich-tasting, mouthwatering sweet, sour, and spicy sauces that are
used to accompany the barbecued meats
basted on them during cooking, or thinned
and used as a flavorful marinade
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Serving American Barbecue
• Whole—the protein is small and tender and
served as an individual portion such as pork
spare ribs, chicken legs or breasts, salmon
steaks, or rib eye steaks
• Chopped—the meat comes from a larger
piece, often a whole hog, and is simply
chopped up with large cleavers
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Serving American Barbecue
• Pulled—the meat is shredded off the bone or
pulled from larger pieces of meat that have
been smoked and barbecued
• Carved—the meat is carved into thin slices
from larger pieces of meat and served with a
sauce for sopping
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Jamaican Barbecue
• Jerk
– Unique way of preserving meats, and then
cooking them over a fire pit or open barbecue
grill
– Dates back to native Arawak Indians, who
traditionally cooked wild pigs this way
– Further developed by slaves called Maroons, who
lived in the Blue Mountains
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Jamaican Barbecue
• Jerk
– Today, seasoning is applied to pork, chicken, and fish
while they cook in the colorful and rustic jerk huts that
line the sides of the road
– A special combination of scallions, onions, wild local
thyme, cinnamon, nutmeg, and careful use of the native
fiery scotch bonnet pepper
– Another unique addition to the jerk flavoring is the use
of pimento wood for fuel during the barbecuing process
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Churrasco
• Brazilian Barbecue
– Introduced to Brazil when cattle were first
brought to the country in the early 16th century.
– Originally metal-skewered meats were cooked in
trenches over hot coals
– The meat was seasoned with coarse salt, and each
gaucho had his own churrasco knife that he used
to cut pieces of meat from the spit
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Tandoor
• Indian Barbecue
– Originated in the northern regions of India
– The tandoori oven resembles a large clay vase or
jug
– The shape of the oven, like a vase, retains heat
and conserves fuel
– The principle of the tandoor is to barbecue, bake,
and roast simultaneously
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Braai
• South African Barbecue
– Braai comes from the Afrikaans word braaivleis,
meaning “meat grill”
– Can include anything from meats to seafood
– A traditional barbecue meal consists of large
marinated steak, lamb cutlets, and the beloved
boerewors (a spicy farmer’s sausage much prized
on the barbecue)
© 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.
Braai
• South African Barbecue
– A spicy marinade, called Piri-Piri can be used for
the meats and poultry for the braai and results in
very spicy meat
© 2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved.