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Everything you wanted to know
about sustainability
Ed Rolls
Introduction
• What is sustainability?
• Why the need for sustainability?
• How can personal care/cosmetic brands
be sustainable
What is Sustainability?
Sustainability is based on a simple principle:
“Everything that we need for our survival and well-being depends, either
directly or indirectly, on our natural environment. Sustainability creates and
maintains the conditions under which humans and nature can exist in
productive harmony, that permit fulfilling the social, economic and other
requirements of present and future generations.”
Sustainability is important to making sure that we have and will continue to
have, the water, materials, and resources to protect human health and our
environment.
www.EPA.gov
Why the need for
sustainability?
“it now takes the Earth one year and four months to regenerate
what we deplete in a year”
Global Footprint Network
Sustainability has emerged as a result of:
• rapid population growth,
• economic growth
• consumption of our (natural) resources.
How can personal
care/cosmetic brands be
sustainable?
Easiest Option…..
…..Use raw materials for a company that has
sustainable practises
•
•
Environmental projects
Community programmes
Environmental Initiative
•
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•
Sudarshan have planted 25,000 trees across India as part of a government
project
Plan to plant 5000 more next year
Sudarshan are also involved in community projects
Next Option…..
…..Become Natural
•
•
Using petrochemical derivatives is not sustainable (they will run out) and
also energy intensive
Huge range of natural and natural derived ingredients now available
Very brief list of our natural offerings ….
Deodorant Agent
Tegodeo PY 88
Tego Cosmo P 813
Zinc Ricinoleate
Polyglyceryl-3-Caprylate
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Emollient
Schecermol 1818
Isostearyl Isostearate
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Isolan GPS
Isolan IS
Schecermol GMIS
Schecermol OLO
Schercemol MM
Glyceryl Isostearate
Oleyl Oleate
Myristyl Myristate
Diisostearyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer
Dilinoleate
Triisostearyl polyglyceryl-3 Dimer
Dilinoleate
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Isolan PDI
Tegin OV
Tegin Pellets
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Evonik Industries AG
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
Evonik Industries AG
Polyglyceryl-4
Diisostearate/Polyhydroxystearate/S
abacate
Evonik Industries AG
Methyl Glucose Isostearate
Evonik Industries AG
Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3-Dimer
Dilinoleate
Evonik Industries AG
Glyceryl Oleate
Evonik Industries AG
Glyceryl Stearate
Evonik Industries AG
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Tego Care 450
Polyglyceryl-3-Methylglucose
Evonik Industries AG
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Tego Care CG 90
Evonik Industries AG
Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate
Isoamyl Cocoate
Cetyl Ricinoleate (* made by
Tegosoft CR
Biocatalysis)
Tegosoft CT
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Decyl Cocoate (* made by
Tegosoft DC
Biocatalysis)
Tegosoft DO
Decyl Oleate
Tegosoft LSE 65 K Soft Sucrose Cocoate
Tegosoft M
Isopropyl Myristate
Myristyl Myristate (* made by
Tegosoft MM
Biocatalysis)
Lubrizol Advanced Materials
Evonik Industries AG
Tego Care LTP
Tego Care PSC 3
Ceteryl Glucoside
Sorbitan Laurate; Polyglyceryl-4Laurate; Dilauryl Citrate
Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate/Citrate
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Tego Care PS
Tego SML
Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
Sorbitan Laurate
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Tego SMO V
Tego SMS
Tego STO V
Tego Care PL4
Sorbitan Oleate
Sorbitan Stearate
Sorbitan Trioleate
Polyglyceryl 4 Laurate
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Tegosoft OER
Tegosoft P
Tegosoft PC 31
Tegosoft TIS
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Surfacare GLB60
Antil Soft SC
Cocamidopropyl Betaine; Glyceryl
Laurate
Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Salicylates and
Chemicals
Salicylates and
Chemicals
Salicylates and
Chemicals
Salicylates and
Chemicals
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Schercemol PDD
Schercemol PTID
Hydramol™ TGL Ester
Tegosoft AC
Oleyl Erucate
Isopropyl Palmitate
Polyglyceryl-3-Caprate
Triisostearine
Emulsifier
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Rheological
Additives
Preservative
Surfactant
Axol C 62 Pellets
Isolan GI 34
Perlastan SC
Sodium/Disodium Cocoyl
Glutamate
Schill & Seilacher
Salinatural BCLS
Lathanol LAL
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate
Stepan
Salinatural OLG
Rewopol SBF 12P
Stepan SLL FB
Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Evonik Industries AG
Stepan
Salinatural TCLS
Curry Leaf Oil, Cinnamon leaf oil
Basil Extract, Clove Bud Oil,
Lemongrass Oil, Sesame Oil
Orange oil, Lemongrass Oil,
Sesame Oil
Turmeric Oil, Clove Bud Oil,
Lemongrass Oil, Sesame Oil
Stepan SSL CG
Surfac APGPC
Tego Betain 810
Rewoteric AM C
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
Capryl/Capramidopropyl Betaine
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
Stepan
Surfachem
Evonik Industries AG
Evonik Industries AG
Tegin 4100 Pellets
Tego Soft PC41
Glyceryl Stearate
Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate
Stabilizer /
Solubiliser
Salinatural CCL
Salinatural CCL
Salinatural TCLS
Salinatural OLG
Salinatural BCLS
Amino acids as building block - L-glutamic acid
•
proteinogenic amino acid
building block of protein
• found naturally
• in our bodies
• protein containing foods etc.
H2N
COOH
glutamic acid
sarcosine
H3C
COOH
• made by
• fermentation process via corynebacterium glutamicum
• raw materials like sugar beets, sugar cane (it's molasses)
• used
• as flavour enhancer
- glutamic acid consumption is approx. 1.7 mio. tons/year worldwide
- code: E 621
- intake: 0.3-0.5 g/day in Europe, 1.2-1.7 g/day in Asia
• for surfactant production
- consumption is several thousand tons worldwide
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Range of approved Glucamates
Product name
PERLASTAN®
SC
PERLASTAN®
SL
CTFA/INCI name
Sodium Cocoyl
Glutamate
Sodium Lauroyl
Glutamate
Active Ingredient
[%]
24.0 - 26.0
24.0 - 26.0
pH, 10 % Solution
7.5 - 9.5
7.5 - 9.5
Sodium Soap
[%]
max. 2.5
max. 2.5
slightly yellowish
clear liquid
slightly
yellowish
clear liquid
1,2-Propylene Glycol
[%]
none
none
Sodium Chloride
[%]
< 0.5
< 0.5
Appearance
*All Products are free of preservatives
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What about the Palm Oil problem?
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Nearly all these natural ingredients to some extent
use palm oil
Palm oil yields greater amount of long chain
glycerides than most other natural oils
Palm oil plantations can’t be turned back to
rainforest
RSPO – Objectives to promote the growth and
use of sustainable palm oil
RSPO hasn’t achieved a great deal yet
All our major manufacturers are members
Green palm certificates
If only being natural is not
good enough…..
•
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•
Some ingredients are more sustainable than others
New biotechnologies
Low energy production processes
Polyglyceryl Technology
• Perfect match of eco-efficiency, performance from mild green
chemistry
• Alternative to petrochemical (PEG) based emulsifiers and
solubilisers
• Tegocare PSC 3 – Emulsifier
• Tegosoft PC41 - Solubiliser
Bio-renewable Ceramides
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Derived from yeast ferment
Human identical
In-vivo and in-vitro data
Perfect for anti-ageing and moisturising
Skinflux V
Sphingokine NP
Phytosphingosine SLC
Enzymatic Emollients
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60% energy saving
conventional
Lower green house gas
volatile comp.
production
Reduction of formation of aqueous waste
environmentally damaging
impurities by 88%
aqueous waste
Bio-catylists are
derived from nature
solid waste
Tegosoft AC
Tegosot CR
enzymatic
raw mat.
reaction
catalyst
desodor.
steam
bleaching
bleach
catalyst
recycled
raw mat.
reaction
drying
filtration
packing
filter aid
applied temperature
> 180°C
140°C
100°C
60°C
20°C
packing
The ultimate in
sustainability…..
•
Looking after environment and local farmers
Phytotrade Africa
• Established in 2002
• Trade association for natural products
of southern Africa
• For food/drink and oils for cosmetics
• Aims
– Alleviate Poverty
– Protect Biodiveristy
– Develop an economically successful industry that is ethical and
sustainable
UbuntuTM Natural Range
Mongongo Oil
• High in Vitamin E, linoleic and elostearic acid
• Eleostearic acid reacts with light, to give a protective layer
• Suitable for moisturising, restructuring and regenerating the epidermis
Baobab Oil
• High in palmitic, oleic and linoleic acid
• Long shelf life and doesn’t dry out on contact with air
• Adds body and shine to hair and combats dry scalp
Marula Oil
• High in oleic and inoleic acids and high in antioxidants meaning it is one of the most
stable natural oils
• Softens, nourishes and revitalises skin
UbuntuTM Natural Range
Khalahari Oil
• High in palmitic, oleic and linoleic acids, high in antioxidants
to deal with the harsh Khalahari dessert
• Suitable for moisturising, restructuring and regenerating the skin
Ximenia Oil
• Very effective at treating dry skin prone to ageing, and
improves function of sebaceous tissues
• Xymenynic acid improves blood flow to the skin
• Suitable for anti-ageing, eye-care, dry damaged hair, acne ranges
Mafura Butter
• Melts at 30C, high in in palmitic, stearic, oleic and linoleic acids
• Anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity due to presence of limonids
• Very effective free-radical scavenger
Fairtrade
• Established in 1992
• Visions for a world with justice and sustainability
• Standards requires farmers to work to protect the
environment
• Encouraged to use as little non-renewable energy
source as possible
• Farmers receive Fairtrade premiums for economic, social and
environmental products
– In Costa Rica farmers have invested in re-planting of trees to prevent
soil erosion and environmentally friendly ovens that used coffee hulls
and macadamia nut shells to power them