Transcript Shaving preparations

SHAVING PREPARATIONS
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Shaving Preparations
1.Wet Shaving Preparations
2.Dry Shaving preparations
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WET SHAVING PREPARATIONS
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The most significant function of shaving preparations is softening the hair to
facilitate cutting.
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The hallmarks of a good wet shaving preparation are :
To soften the hair (by hydration)
To act as a lubricant between the shaving hardware and the face
Foaming shave products
The physical presentation of a foaming shave product makes it
ideal to supply moisture to the beard.
Role of soap lather in shaving :
 Hastened the process of hair softening by water
 Do lubrication between the blade and the fiber that is about to be cut
 Water reservoir for imbibition of hair by the water
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Lather shaving creams :
 Based on Na+ /K+ soap systems in a range of (10%-55%).
 Blends of fatty acid are employed , stearic acid alone appear to yield
harder and inferior foams.
 Stearic acid with isostearic acid , palmitic acid , lauric acid …etc
“ the
shorter the chain length the softer the resultant cream” can be used in
varying ratios so that a wide range of textures can be obtained , but as
a starting point (60%-90%) of the total fatty acid should be stearic acid
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Lather shaving creams :
The selection of the alkali is of major significance to the final product
texture and foaming properties .
Not a single agent but a mixture of NaOH, KOH.
Soaps made solely with NaOH tend to be hard, KOH alone may lead to
stability issues at elevated temp.
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Other ingredients:
 Xanthan and cationic gar gums prevent phase separation and lower the
coefficient between the razor and the beard or skin.
 Humectants (glycerin, propylene glycol) prevent drying out of the cream and
makes the cream softer.
 Emollients (mineral oil, lanolin, lanolin derivatives) lubricate the skin surface
and thus lower the coefficient of friction between razor and skin.
 surfactants has been incorporated to aid in the rinsability of the shaving
debris from the shaving hardware, to enhance the foaming properties, and
to stabilize the foam.
 Sensorial agents (menthol, menthoxypropanediole)cooling effect
 Skin-soothings (bisabolol, aloe, chamomile) enhance marketing story.
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Lather shaving sticks :
These systems are essentially modifications of a standard deodorant
stick formulations –alkali metal soap with a glycerol and water. In this
case, however, the level of soap is higher (70%-85%) with the reminder
being approximately equal parts glycerin and water.
Other ingredients such as perfume, surfactants, and talc can be milled
into the formulation prior to molding. These forms offered little more
than novelty but currently do not enjoy market success.
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Aerosol shave foams
 Dominate the market because of their economy, ease of use, and
ability to efficiently soften the beard and to act as a lubricant between
the shaving hardware and the skin.
•General formulating tips
 Pressurized o/w emulsions.
 Contain stearic acid in combination with shorter chains fatty acid to
modify foam texture and dispensing qualities.
 Isostearic acid can be incorporated to prevent gelation.
 KOH is used as bases alone or in combination BUT NaOH should be
avoided; Na-stearate has a tendency to gel.
 If the foam is stiff, dry and difficult to dispense more base or shorter
chain fatty acids are added or the amount of humectant can be
increased.
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Other ingredients:
 Surfactants: nonionic and anionic (high HLB nonionic emulsifier and
SLS ) are included to stabilize the emulsion, aid in the rinsability,
improve the spreadability, and stabilize the foam.
 Humectants: (glycerin, sorbitol, and propylene glycol ) to prevent the
foam from dry-out during the shaving process.
 Conditioning agents and lubricants: (quaternary ammonium
compounds and cationic guar gums) leave the post-shaven skin
feeling conditioned, not taut, and create creamy luxurious foams.
 Propellants: (a blend of n-butane, isobutane, and propane) the higher
the percent propellant, the drier the foam, more difficult to spread and
wet then add high HLB value surfactant
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 Fragrance: as they are notorious defoamers, there may be upper limit
on their use.
 A solubilizer may be required to serve multiple roles:
 solubilizing the fragrance
 wet the beard
 improving the spreadability of the foam
 aiding in the clean up process of the shaving hardware.
 An antioxidant can be added to protect the fragrance and any
unsaturates in the formuation from oxidation.
 Preservatives: Many shave foams do not contain preservatives,
(phenoxyethanol, EDTA, triclosan) may be added if the concentrate
will be held before filling or if the concentrate must be shipped to an
alternate site for filling.
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Brushless shave creams
 A non-lathering o/w emulsions
 pH (7.5-8) might be milder than lathering creams
 Beard-softening efficiency is greater compared to foams and gels
 Poor rinsability of the shaving debris from the shaving hardware
 Disappeared from the market
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DRY SHAVING PREPARATIONS :
 Electric shavers do not cut the beard as close to the skin surface as a
razor . Both electric and blade shaving result in the removal of skin,
and the amount removed depends on the pressure applied to the face,
pre-electric shave preparations may not increase the quality of shave
but may assist in reducing skin damage
 The bread should be dry when using an electric razor
 The removal of the film of perspiration from the face reduces the
friction between the razor and the skin and prevents the beard from
being slippery and elusive to cutting edge of the electric razor.
 Forms of pre-electric shave preparations are :
lotion based on an alcoholic solution
talc stick
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Pre electric shave lotion
In formulating a pre-electric shave lotion the following attributes are
considered desirable:
 Adequate astringency to stiffen the beard and to stimulate the hair
follicle muscles
 Quick drying to allow rapid evaporation of any moisture present on the
face
 A pH below the iso-electric point of keratin to prevent swelling of the
hair
 Provision of a coating on the skin on which the razor will glide,
preventing irritation of the skin and providing lubrication for the cutting
edge of the electric razor
 Freedom from any substances likely to corrode the cutting head
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Absence of any lubricants likely to have an adverse effect on plastic
components of the electric shaver.
 The alcoholic pre-electric shave lotions may be either astringent or oily
 The astringents are intended to dry and stiffen the hairs and to assist in
raising them, menthol or camphor may be included to give a cooling
effect together with a suitable antiseptic.
 Lotions of the oily type aim to deposit a film of lubricant on the face
which reduces the drag of the cutting head against the skin
 A roll-on type of applicator may be used to apply preelectric shave
lotions directly to the face, it may be necessary to adjust the viscosity
and wetting properties of lotion to prevent seepage around the ball
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the applicator is inverted.
Pre-electric shave talc stick or powder
 Talc is used to absorb perspiration and sebaceous secretions from
the skin and to confer its characteristic slip so that the head of the
shaver will glide smoothly over the face.
 Colloidal kaolin is present in the preparation to improve the
moisture absorbing capacity and adhesion to the skin.
 Zn and Mg stearate enhance adhesion and slip.
 Mg carbonate is the carrier of perfume and increases the
absorbtion.
 Powders should be free from grit to avoid abrading the cutting edge
of the electric razor (grinding powder).
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INTRODUCTION :
The word 'cosmetics' arises from a Greek word ' kosmeticos ' which
means to adorn. Since that time any material used for beautification or improvement
of appearance is known as “cosmetic” The cosmetics in general are external
preparations and are meant to be applied to external parts of the body. In other words
they may be applied to skin, hair and nails for the purposes of covering, colouring ,
softening, cleansing, nourishing, waving, setting, mollification, preservation, removal
and protection. All cosmetics are formulated as solids, semi-solids or liquids.
SHAMPOOS:
A good shampoo should almost immediately form abundant foam
irrespective of the type of water used to clean the hair The functions of the shampoos
are It completely and effectively removes the dust, sebum and residual substances It
must effectively wash the hair It should produce a good amount of foam It must easily
clear on water wash It should leaves the hair non dry and softeness It should impart
pleasant fragrance to the hair It should not cause irritation to skin and eye
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COMPOSITION OF SHAMPOOS:
COMPOSITION OF SHAMPOOS Surfactants are the main component of
shampoos. Mainly anionic surfactants are used. cationic, non-ionic and ampholytic
surfactants have also used The raw materials used in manufacture of shampoos
are classified as: Principal surfactants which provide detergency and foam.
Secondary surfactants which improve detergency foam and hair condition. Other
additives which impart other characteristics to the shampoo products.
PRINCIPAL SURFACTANTS:
PRINCIPAL SURFACTANTS Anionic surfactants are mostly used as principal
surfactant. They have very good foaming properties. Non-ionic surfactants have
good cleansing activity but do not have sufficient foaming power. Cationic
surfactants have good foaming character as well as some cleansing power but are
not much used as they are toxic and cause damage to the eye. Ampholytic
surfactants are generally not as good as anionic. Also they are more expensive.
So,18they are mainly used as secondary surfactants and as good hair conditioners
Alkyl sulphates : Alkyl sulphates are most widely used anionic detergents,
particularly lauryl and myristyl sulphate various salts of lauryl sulphates like sodium
lauryl sulphate , triethanol lauryl sulphate , monoethanol lauryl sulphate and
ammonium lauryl sulphate are used. Triethanolamine alkyl sulphate is present in most
of the present day shampoos
Alkyl polyethylene glycol sulphates : Sulphate derivatives of lauryl alcohol ether
with polyethylene glycol are good cleansers. Normally a chain of 2-3 ethylene oxide
molecules is condensed. Sodium salts of these alkyl ether sulphates are more water
soluble than sodium lauryl sulphate and thus a concentrated, product can be made.
Addition of sequestering agents like salts of EDTA or poly phosphates is required for
stabilization
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SECONDARY SURFACTANTS:
SECONDARY SURFACTANTS These are added to produce more foam and to
improve the condition of the hair. They are mostly anionic or ampholytic detergents .
Monoalkyl sulphosuccinates are non-irritant to the eyes and thus may used in body
shampoos. Dialkyl derivatives like sodium di (ethyl hexyl ) sulphosuccinate and the di
(tertiary) nonyl sulphosuccinate are very good wetting agents and are used for
wetting and penetration action. Methyl taurides , amides of methyl taurine , are
amphoteric . They leave the hair in excellent condition because of the presence of the
amide group. Monoethanolamides and isopropanolamides , are used along with
lauryl sulphate to increase the solubility and thus to increase lather.
OTHER ADDITIVES:
OTHER ADDITIVES (a) Germicides and anti-dandruff agents (b) Conditioning agents
(c) Pearlscent agents (d) Sequestrants (e) Thickening agents (f) Colors (g) Perfumes
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Preservatives
CONDITIONING AGENTS:
CONDITIONING AGENTS Conditioning agents are mainly fatty substances
like lanolin, oils; natural products like herbal extracts, egg, amino acids,
lecithin and polymeric substances. These substances give a special
conditioning effect to the hair. If amino acids are incorporated into
shampoos, after washing amino acid remains deposited on the hair and
scalp and produces a good conditioning effect on the hair. Protein
hydrolysates containing amino acids are incorporated for conditioning effect.
PEARLSCENT AGENTS:
PEARLSCENT AGENTS Pearlscent agents are also used to give special
conditioning to hair. They brighten the hair. For this purpose 4 -methyl
coumarins are used in 0.2- l% concentration a nd they act better at pH
between 4.5-6. Fluorescence materials are also occasionally used.
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SEQUESTRANTS:
SEQUESTRANTS They form a water soluble complex with Ca ++ and Mg ++ and thus
prevent the formation of insoluble salts of soaps or detergents by these two divalent
ions present in water. Sometimes calcium salt dispersing agents are incorporated to
disperse the salts formed by the divalents Ca ++ , Mg++ etc. Sequestrants like sodium
salt of EDTA are used to entrap the Ca ++ and Mg ++ present in the water
THICKENING AGENTS:
THICKENING AGENTS To make shampoo preparations viscous, for thickening and
minimize wastage while pouring, thickening agents are incorporated. The substances
normally used for this purpose are alginates, polyvinyl alcohol, methyl cellulose,
colloidal silicates, polyethylene glycols . Some times a suitable combination of
surfactants also make the preparation viscous. Sulphated castor oil along with
sulphated olive oil is one such combination.
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COLOURING AGENTS:
Colours are preferred by several people and thus suitable certified colours can be
incorporated to produce a visually attractive impact. The colours should be water
soluble . Perfumes: Perfumes are also incorporated to have an after-use fragrance
on hair. They also help to mask the odour of the other ingredients particularly
detergent various perfumes are used for this purpose. Perfumes are used in 0.31.0%.
PRESERVATIVES Preservatives are very important as most products are liable to
attack by microbes. This leads to breakdown of the product, odour , discoloration
and cloudiness. Water-soluble preservatives are to be used and p- hydroxy benzoic
acid and its methyl ester, phenyl mercuric compounds and formaldehyde may be
used.
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PREPARATION OF SHAMPOOS:
PREPARATION OF SHAMPOOS They are prepared by simple mixing process. In
powder shampoos the ingredients are simply mixed and the perfume is added last. In
case of clear liquid shampoos the detergents are first dissolved in half of the water
with little heat if necessary. Other ingredients are added to other part of the water and
then mixed with the first part. Then perfume is added last. LIQUID CREAM
SHAMPOOS Such shampoos are expected to be mild and emollient in action. Nonionic stearates like propylene glycol stearate , polyethylene glycol 400 distearate
together with insoluble metallic stearates are used for opacification .
SOLID CREAM/GEL SHAMPOOS These are made from sodium lauryl sulphate
paste with suitable gelling agent such as sodium stearate . Since they have to be
stored in collapsible tubes or jars, they should have thick consistency. OIL
SHAMPOOS Oil shampoos basically consist of detergents made of sulphonated oils .
They have good cleansing ability to remove dirt and oil from the hair but they do not
form foam. Sulphonated vegetable oils are made by treating vegetable oils with
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sulphuric acid or other sulphonating agents, and are good detergents.
EVALUATION OF SHAMPOOS:
EVALUATION OF SHAMPOOS Shampoos are before releasing to the market, must
be tested for their safety or application to the skin and eyes. General tests for
identification of in gradients and quantity of each ingredient should be carried out b y
proper chemical analysis. Some other specific tests are done. Various physical
properties These are foam formation and foam stability, rheology of the products,
nature of foam, effect of the shampoo on the hair and its characteristics
.1. Effect on the hair This can be studied by half-head technique, where half of
the hair is shampooed, the other half is used as control, and comparing the two parts
by observation.
2. Effect on skin and eyes This can be done by applying it on animals.
Irritation on skin can be studied by applying it on skin and observing the effects on
skin.
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