Transcript Document

Skin products
Question work through
Neil Watson
The Body Shop
Skin Products
•Cleansing Products
•Moisturising Products
•Controlling Body odour and sweating
•Sun Protection
•Removal of unwanted hair
26 March 2016
2
Question - Hair Removal
Answer all parts:a) What do you understand by the term “Epilation” and “Depilation”?
( 2 Marks)
b) List methods of unwanted hair removal both mechanical and chemical.
( 2 Marks)
c) What are the ideal properties of a wet shaving product?
( 5 Marks)
d) Describe the basic components of a soap based shaving product and
their effects.
( 7 Marks)
e) List the properties of a good chemical depilatory product.
(7 Marks)
f) Explain how the active ingredients used in a chemical depilatory work.
( 2 Marks)
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Answers
a) Epilation – is a process of hair removal from below the skin’s
surface
Depilation – is a process of the temporary removal of hair
from the surface of the skin.
b) Mechanical hair removal – Tweezing, Threading, Electrical
epilation, Electrolysis, Sugaring, Waxing and shaving
Chemical hair removal – Thioglycollate, Enzymes
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c) The hallmarks of a good wet shaving preparation are
twofold:
i) to soften the hair
ii) to act as a lubricant between hardware and the skin.
The product must foam quickly and copiously, foam
must be stable enough to last throughout shaving
process, foam must surround, separate and hold hair.
Product must soften and swell hair and lubricate the
skin to reduce blade resistance thus preventing razor
burn, must be non-irritating to the skin and should have a
pleasant fragrance.
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d) Basic ingredients of soap based shaving products and
its effects:
– Short chain fatty acids (e.g. C12 – C14) – imparts large quantity
of loose foam quickly, but can be more irritant to skin
– Long chain fatty acids (e.g. C16 – C18) – imparts small quantity
of thick foam, hardening effect on soap
– Triethanolamine – imparts fast copious foam, soft effect on soap
– Potassium hydroxide solution – imparts copious foam of soft
nature
– Sodium hydroxide solution – imparts moderate foam which is
hard
– Glycerine – stabilises foam and prevents it from drying out,
softens soap
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e) Two types of depilatory are:i) Thioglycollate
ii) enzyme based system
A good chemical depilatory should have the following properties:1 - softens hair to aid rapid removal within 7 to 20 minutes (shorter time for fine
hair, longer time for coarse hair)
2 - non-toxic, non-irritating to the skin
3 - cosmetically elegant: economical to use, easy to apply, stable in the pack,
acceptable smell
4 - no damage caused to clothing
5 - the pH must not exceed 12.7, otherwise it will cause severe skin buns
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f)
Chemical Thioglycollate based depilatories work by breaking
disulphide linkage in the keratin hair fibres, and totally disintegrate the
hair
OR
The principle of the chemical depilatory depends on the extensive
swelling of hair fibres because of disulphide bond reduction and the
effect of high
pH on hydrogen bonding.
The final de-hairing of skin is achieved by scraping with a blunt
instrument or rubbing with terry cloth of the depilatory-treated skin area
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NEXT QUESTION
QUESTION - Suncare
Answer all parts:a) Define what is meant by the term sunscreen.
b)
c)
d)
e)
( 2 Marks)
Give examples of chemical and physical sunscreen agents
and explain the difference between them in terms of their
mode of action.
( 6 Marks)
Give examples of UVA and UVB sunscreens.
( 2 Marks)
Describe the procedure for measuring SPF in human test
volunteers.
( 8 Marks)
Explain how a sun protection factor (SPF) is calculated.
( 7 Marks)
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a) A Sunscreen is the UV light absorbing agent that
helps to lower the incidence of dermal malignancies.
The function of the sunscreen is the protection of
the skin from damaging UV light.
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b) Chemical Sunscreens; chemically absorb ultraviolet light
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Ethylhexyl dimethyl paraben
Benzophenone
Octylcrylene
Homosalate
Physical Sunscreens; works by reflecting and scattering UV light
They are micronized, highly insoluble organic molecules such as
Guanine
Or
Inorganic like,
Titanium Dioxide
Zinc Oxide
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c) UVA filter: Benzophenone, Butyl Methoxy
dibenzoylmethane, methyl anthranilate
UVB filter: PABA, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl
Methoxycinnamate
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d) Measurement is done under controlled conditions, in the presence of a highly skilled
scientist (preferably dermatologist)
The following steps are involved:
Step I – Selection of suitable panellists (minimum10) with skin type I to III with written
consent
Step II – suitable test sites, usually panellists back are marked to measure MED
Step III – the test sites (unprotected skin) is exposed to graduated increasing amount of
UV radiation (290 – 300 nms) from solar simulator lamp
Step IV – test sites are checked about 24 hours after exposure
Step V – the dermatologist picks out the sites showing MED
Step VI – test product is applied to randomised test sites and allowed to rest for at least
15 minutes
Step VII – then the test sites exposed to UV radiation using solar simulating lamp for a
set time
Step VIII – After irradiation test sites are examine for any reddening / darkening and reexamined after 24 hours
Step IX – SPF is calculated for each panellist and SPF is worked out for the group using
statistical means
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e)
SPF = Time to produce erythema in protected skin
Time to produce erythema in unprotected skin
OR
SPF = MED with sunscreen
MED without sunscreen
MED – minimal erythemal dose
Sun protection factor (SPF) testing is a measure of the
ability of UVB to cause erythema in the skin, the test
relies on the accurate detection of first sign of erythema
by measuring the minimal erythemal dose.
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QUESTION – Skin Cleansing
Answer all parts:a. Classify the main types of skin cleansing formulations available on the
market.
( 5 Marks)
b.
List the common active raw materials used for cleansing dry, normal
and oily skin.
(10 Marks)
c.
Describe the advantages and disadvantages of using:i) Soap.
ii) Synthetic detergents.
iii) Emulsion cleansing products
( 7 Marks)
d. Give examples of the protection and repair requirements that
consumers may expect in skincare products.
( 3 Marks)
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a) Soap. (Superfatted soap, Transparent/ Glycerin soap,
Translucent/ pearlised soap, Combo Bars (Dove Beauty Bar,
Syndet bars.)
Emulsions. (Creams, Lotions, Milk, Cold Cream,
Rinse –off emulsions
(foaming cleansers)).
Liquid synthetic detergents.
Gels. (Surfactant, basic viscous lotion).
Wipes.
Masks.
Mousse.
Scrubs.
Toners.
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b)
Raw Materials used for Cleansing dry skin.
Emulsion products; w/o or o/w emulsions which combine the solvency of water and oils to
effect cleansing of the skin containing high levels of emollients (oils) generally between 3565%
Emollients – IPP, IPM, Mineral Oil, Jojoba Oil, Vegetable Oil and Menthol
for cooling agent.
Raw Materials used for Cleansing Normal and Combination skin.
These include soap, combo bars, synthetic detergents (syndet bar), liquids containing
mixture of fatty acid salts, Fatty Acid Esters, (C12 – Sodium Laurate, C14 – Sodium
Myristate, C16 – Sodium Palmitate, C18 – Sodium Stearate,
C18 – Sodium Oleate), Silicones, Triglycerides oils/fats, (Lauric, Myristic, Palmitic, Linoleic,
Palm oil, Palm kernel oil and Coconut oil).
Raw Materials used for Cleansing Oily skin
Frequent and effective cleansing is recommended for oily skin in order to keep the amount
of sebum left on the skin to minimum thus avoids development of the spots and pimples.
Skin toners/Masks.
Ethanol, Witch Hazel, IPA, Antibacterial agents and Salicylic Acid.
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C) Soap
Advantages –
Disadvantages scaling.
inexpensive
Produces a rich lather
Rinses off easily
extremely alkaline(pH9-10) which can cause irritation, dryness and
In hard water areas soaps can leave scum deposits on the washbasin
Synthetic detergents
AdvantagesMild to the skin
No scum
Can be formulated to match the skins pH
Because they have a lower pH than soap they are more versatile in terms
of
fragrance, colour etc.
Disadvantages
The lather is not as good as soaps and not always rich and creamy. They
can
sometimes be quite difficult to rinse off
Emulsion cleansing products
Advantages
They can leave a layer of emollient oil on the skin to keep it smooth and
supple.
Much greater versatility and variation in product types
Are easily adapted for different skin types
Disadvantages
Can be more expensive
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d) A consumer might expect the following from their
skincare product:
Protect their skin from UV damage or other environmental
factors(Such as pollution, smoke etc.)
Maintain levels of moisturisation by adding moisture
directly to the skin, and by reducing loss of
moisture(increasing barrier function, reducing TEWL)
Repair the skin if damaged through sun exposure or
ageing by stimulating collagen and elastin synthesis or
increasing cell renewal/turnover providing the consumer
with smoother skin.
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QUESTION - Moisturisation
Answer all parts:a. Explain why moisturisers are recommended for dry skin, defining
moisturisation, emollients and humectancy.
(11 Marks)
b. Give examples of raw material types that are commonly used
as:i) Emollients
( 4 Marks)
ii) Humectants.
( 4 Marks)
c. Discuss some of the new functional materials that are now
available as special additives for moisturising products.
( 6 Marks)
 a)Dry skin often manifests itself with patches of scaly or
rough skin, and is usually white and flaky. This is
because when the skin is dehydrated the corneocytes
(skin’s scales) become rigid and more visible. This can
be temporarily reversed by using a suitable moisturising
cream. The moisturiser will increase the water content of
the stratum corneum leaving the skin soft, smooth and
supple. This is because the corneocytes have become
more pliable and transparent – and therefore less visible.
So moisturisation is a method whereby the water content
of the stratum corneum is temporarily increased through
the application of a skincare product.
 Moisturisers are generally made up of a combination of emollients
and humectants because they both work in different but
complimentary ways.
 Emollients, which are materials such as an oil or wax, often work
through an occlusive action, which means they form a barrier to
water loss and therefore reduce TEWL. This in turn increases the
level of water in the SC. They also make the skin feel smoother very
quickly as they have the ability to ‘fill in’ the cracks of the horny layer
and ‘glue down’ the protruding corneocytes. Common examples of
emollients are mineral oil and lanolin
 Humectants exhibit hygroscopic behaviour, this means they draw in,
and hold onto, large amounts of water. When applied to the skin the
humectant reduces TEWL by holding onto the water in the skin in
the intercellular lipid matrix found between the corneocytes in the
SC. Common examples of humectants are propylene glycol and
glycerine.
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b) (i) Common emollients:
Hydrocarbons Mineral Oil, petrolatum
Lanolin Derivatives Lanolin Oil, lanolin Alcohol
Fatty Acids Stearic acid, linoleic acid
Fatty Alcohols cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl
alcohol
Esters isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, Jojoba
oil
Triglycerides Sesame oil, Sweet Almond oil, Cocoa
Butter, sunflower oil
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b (ii) Common Humectants
Polyols – propylene glycol, Glycerin, sorbitols
Amino Acids – Hydrolysed animal proteins,
collagen, Milk protein, Silk amino acids
Others such as Urea, Lecithin, Aloe Vera, Lactic
acid
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Special additives
c) Hydroxyacids, such as Salycilic, lactic, malic etc
affect the epidermal renewal process by reducing
corneocyte adhesion in the basal layer of the stratum
corneum, increasing cell turnover, providing smoother
skin, reducing hyper pigmentation and they have a long
term increase in collagen and elastin synthesis. Lactic
and glycolic acids are most effective but you need to
formulate carefully as they can be irritating and pH
needs to be around 4.5
 Vitamins – Vitamins can provide a good holistic
approach to wellbeing, but have a functional use too.
Vitamin E (dl alpha tocopherol) is a good antioxidant and
free radical scavenger. Vitamin A derivatives can be
used to treat sun damaged skin, as it can normalise
epidermal activity and reduce hyper pigmentation.
Vitamin C(ascorbic acid) is another natural antioxidant
that regulates collagen synthesis. Vitamin C is quite
unstable and can oxidize easily, nowadays the best
delivery systems are microcapsules or liposomes or the
more liposoluble forms of ascorbic acid such as
hexyldecanoyl ascorbic acid.
 Essential Fatty Acids(EFAs). EFAs such as linoleic
and gamma linolenic acid are important building blocks
of ceramides. When applied topically through a skin
cream they can be incorporated in the SC structural
lipids, improving the skins suppleness and flexibility.
 Proteins and glycosaminoglycans. Proteins such as
silk amino acids are very substantive to the skin, and
leave it feeling soft and smooth. Hyaluronic acid absorbs
considerable amounts of water, and although they can’t
penetrate the SC they form a semi permeable layer on
the surface and reduce TEWL.
 Polysaccharides – derived form oats, wheat, bakers
yeast – these can affect the skin in a number of ways ;
reducing irritation caused by detergents, increasing cell
turnover in the SC, stimulation of collagen synthesis.
 Delivery systems – many new delivery systems have
been developed over the years that can encapsulate
usually unstable materials that are only exposed upon
contact to the skin. Or liposomes that are very
compatible with the skin and can penetrate into the SC
and deliver their active content.
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