Transcript Chemistry

Chemistry
You will learn
about:
•Matter
•pH Scale
•Chemistry of
Cosmetics
Why Chemistry?
The professional cosmetologist needs to
understand the chemicals he/she works
with in order to:
- safely perform chemical services
requested by clients,
- teach clients how to care for their hair
following chemical services,
- and, sell products to their clients.
Matter
• Anything that occupies
space; exist in 3 forms:
– Solids – weight,
volume, shape
– Liquids – weight,
volume, no shape
– Gasses – weight,
indefinite volume and
shape
Liquid
Gas
Organic Matter
• Matter that is now living or was alive at
one time.
– Ex. - Plants and animals
Plants and Mulch
Humans
Animals
Inorganic Matter
• Matter that is NOT alive or has never been
alive; does not contain carbon.
– Ex. – rocks, water, minerals
Rock – Granite
Water
Mineral - Quartz
Changes In Matter
• Physical Change
– Change the characteristics
without making a new
substance.
• Ex. – Ice Melting
• Chemical Change
– A change in a substance that
creates a new substance with
chemical characteristics
different from those of the
original substance.
• Ex. – Rust – oxygen mixed with
metal creates rust (or iron oxide)
Elements
that make up hair
#
Element
6
Carbon
8
Oxygen
1 Hydrogen
7 Nitrogen
16 Sulfur
Symbol
C
O
H
N
S
Form
Solid
Gas
Gas
Gas
Solid
Anatomy of a
Hair Strand
Atoms
• Smallest complete unit of an
element.
• Atoms combine chemically to form
Molecules
•
of amino acids.
Amino Acids
• Compounds of
C,O,H,N
• 22 Common
amino acids
• Join together in
chains to make
proteins
Protein
• Hair is made up of protein
called keratin
• Hair is 97% keratin and 3%
trace minerals
• Hair contains 19 of 22
common amino acids.
End Bonds
(Peptide Bonds)
• Backbone of all protein molecules
• Links the amino acid protein chains
together end to end.
• Do not disturb the end bond, this could
destroy the protein structure.
– If broken, protein chains separate into small
fragments, or revert to groups of amino acids
that no longer have the characteristics of hair.
• RESULT – VERY DAMAGED HAIR!
Amino Acid Chains are held together by 3 side
bonds:
• Hydrogen Bond:
– Makes up about 35% of hairs strength.
– Individually very weak and can easily be broken
by heat or water to create physical (temporary)
changes in the hair.
• Salt Bond:
– Also broken by water to create physical (temporary)
changes in the hair.
• Disulfide Bond:
– Most important to a Cosmetologist
• Much stronger than hydrogen or salt bonds.
• Not broken by heat or water. Only a chemical change.
– Example – permanent wave
How the Side Bonds Work
Amino Acid Chain
Salt Bond
Disulfide Bond
Hydrogen Bond
How Hydrogen and Salt Bonds are
Broken by Water
Water molecules can easily break
hydrogen and salt bonds when the
water molecules move in between the
bonds. When the water molecules are
not present the hydrogen and bonds
come back together.
H
H2O
H
H2O
H
H2O
H
H2O
H
Hydrogen Bonds broken by water molecules
H2O
H
Stages of Hair Formation
5. The individual protein
3.Amino acids unite to
chains bond to other chains
2.Unite to
form peptide or end
by hydrogen bond, salt bonds
become
bonds.
and disulfide bonds.
molecules of
amino acids.
1.Begins with
individual
atoms.
4. Amino acids create
polypeptide protein
chains.
6. Hair
Hair Shaft
Cuticle Layer
Close Look at the Cuticle Layer
Chemistry of Cosmetics
• Cosmetic Classifications
–Based on how well a
substance combines and its
physical characteristics
Solutions
• Mixture of 2 or
more kinds of
molecules
–Do not separate
–Can be solid,
liquid or gas
Suspensions
• Mixture of 2 or
more kinds of
molecules
• Separates
• Needs to be
shaken
–Example: Vinegar
and Oil
Emulsions
• 2 or more non-mixable substances united
by a binder (gum).
– Example: oil in water (perms)
– Example: water in oil (cold cream)
Ointments
• Mixture of organic
substance and a
medicinal agent
• Semi-solid form
• No water
–Example: Lipstick
Soaps
Mixtures of fat and oil
converted to fatty acids
by heat and then
purified.
Powders
• Equal mixtures of
inorganic and organic
substances that do
NOT dissolve in water.
• Sifted and mixed until
free of coarse grit.
Shampoo
• Cleans the scalp
and hair
• Removes all
foreign debris
without adversely
affecting scalp
and hair.
How Shampoo Works
• A push pull action is caused by a
surface active agent causing the oil to
“roll up” into droplets that are lifted and
rinsed away.
Surfactant
•Surface active agent
•Has water loving and
oil loving ends.
Surfactant Molecule
Oil Loving
Water Loving
The tail of the shampoo molecule is
attracted to oil and dirt
Shampoo causes oil to roll up into
small globules
During rinsing, the heads of the
shampoo molecules attach to water
molecules and cause debris to roll off.
Thorough rinsing washes away
debris & excess shampoo.
The Role of Water
• Universal solvent
• Neutral pH
• Hard water = minerals
–Hard to lather
• Soft water preferred (allows
lather)
Types of
Shampoos
All Purpose
• Low Alkaline
• Low surfactants
• Mild, does not strip color
–Example: Redken Clear
Moisture
Plain
•
•
•
•
Usually strong
High alkaline
Not for chemically treated hair
Follow with acid rinse
– Ex: Baby shampoo
• Doesn’t burn eyes because it’s high
in alkaline and so are eyes.
Soapless Shampoo
• Able to lather
without harsh
alkaline ingredient
• Works in soft and
hard water
Acid - Balanced
• Made to have same
pH as the skin and
hair
• Will not strip color
Medicated
• Often must have
prescription
• Designed to treat
scalp and hair
problems
Clarifying
• Removes
residue
–Such as
product
build-up.
Anti-Dandruff
• Control dandruff
• Massage scalp
vigorously and rinse
thoroughly
Liquid Dry
• Used when client
can’t receive normal
shampoo
• Works with wigs
• Evaporates from hair
• Very drying
Powder Dry
• For bedridden
clients
• Orris root powder
absorbs oil and dirt
as product is
brushed through
the hair.
• Don’t use prior to
chemical service.
Conditioning
• Contain animal,
vegetable or mineral
additives that enter
cortex or coat cuticle.
• Improve strength and
porosity.
Color
• Contain temporary
color molecules that
stick to outer cuticle
of hair.
For Thinning Hair
• Gentle
• Lighter molecular
weight
• Provides healthy
environment for
hair growth.
Rinses and Conditioners
Appearance
Rinses and
Conditioners give
hair the appearance
of Shine and Luster
Porosity
Porosity - Amount of moisture in the
hair.
Hair Porosity is the
ability of the hair to
retain & absorb
moisture,
determined by how
raised or compact
the cuticle layers
are.
Porosity Test
Manageability
How easily a
comb passes
through the
hair.
Elasticity
The hairs ability to stretch and return to its
natural shape without breaking.
Types of
Rinses
Vinegar and Lemon Rinse
• Acid rinses
• Remove
soap scum
• Counteract
alkalinity.
Cream Rinse
• Soften
• Add luster
• Only slightly
acidic
Medicated Rinse
Control dandruff and minor scalp
conditions.
Conditioners
Instant Conditioner
• Coat the hair shaft
• Restore moisture
and oils
• Do NOT penetrate
into the cortex
• Not for fine limp
hair
Normalizing
• Contain
vegetable
protein
• Acidic pH
causes cuticle
to close after
chemical
services.
Body-Building
• Required for
fine, limp hair
• Deposits
protein
• Can use prior to
chemical
services
Moisturizing
• Humectants bind
and hold moisture in
the hair.
• Avoid use for
several days
following perm (may
go limp)
Customized
• Formulated to
meet special
needs
• Ex. Moisture
and color