Transcript Feeding Your Food: A guide to keeping your feeders

“Feeding Your Food”
A Guide to
Keeping Your Feeders
Nutritionally Balanced
"You Are What You Eat"
• Remember that what goes into your
feeders is what you are ultimately
feeding your reptile.
• The more attention you give to
feeding your feeders the more
nutritious your herp’s meal will be.
Definition of “Gut Load"
Gut load simply means
feeding your insects and
rodents nutritious foods,
so the nutrition is passed
on to your reptiles.
In general we want
our herps to have a blood
Calcium to Phosphorous ratio
(Ca:P ratio) of 3:1.
The most commonly fed insects
are just the opposite...high in
phosphorous and low in calcium.
How do we do it?
• Products that are specially fortified
for gut loading can be purchased
either at the pet store or through
mail order insect suppliers.
• These are convenient and generally
good quality, but can be expensive.
Home-made Gutload:
Feed a MIX of the following:
• tropical fish flakes
• leafy greens (mustard/dandelion/collard greens,
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kale)
vegetables such as squash, sweet/regular
potatoes, carrots, (peelings are fine)
fruits such as oranges, apples
alfalfa
chicken mash, baby rice cereal, wheat germ,
non-sweetened cereals
pre-packaged reptile foods, dry cat food
sprinkle the mix with a reptile vitamin and
calcium supplement for added nutrition.
For Insects:
• Gut loading should take place for 24-48
hours prior to when you intend to feed the
insects to your pet.
• Please note that gut loaded insects
should still be dusted with calcium and
vitamins as per your veterinarian's
recommendations.
For Rodents:
• Gut loading should be more of a
balanced diet during their entire
growth.
• This is also true for other feeders,
such as fish.
• This requires some planning, but is
well worth it.
What About Water?
More a moisture source than a water source as insects
easily drown in open water.
However, the number one killer of insects is
dehydration AND a lack of moisture will result in
cannibalism.
Some people use chick waterers, wet sponges or wet
cotton balls.
Some people prefer using fruit & veggies as moisture
sources. Good choices include orange slices, carrots,
potato pieces, or any kind of greens.
Crickets:
• Freshly shipped crickets are usually
not very nutritionally complete
• Offer fresh water source and gut
load immediately to prevent
cannibalism
• Can last 1 month at room temp
Helpful hints:
Try mixing equal parts of dry cat food,
rolled oats, bran, & chick starter mash
for a base.
Grinding this mix in a blender works well.
The most common base food is calcium
fortified chicken egg laying mash.
Notes:
Moisture can lead to mould - remove old veggies/fruit on
a daily basis to prevent any mould or fungi.
Mouldy food has been linked to many problems and
deaths in otherwise healthy animals.
Never feed insects to your reptile if they are behaving
strangely or there have been a large number of deaths.
Rinse all vegetables and fruits thoroughly to remove any
trace chemicals / pesticides.
To summarize… which fruits and vegetables you feed
your feeders will affect their nutritional value, so vary it
as much as possible.
Types of
Feeder Insects
Mealworms:
• usually the least expensive feeder insect
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option
are fairly nutritionally complete but still require
adjustment
keep in the refrigerator (will last indefinitely)
once a week remove from the fridge for 24
hours to allow them time to shed and eat
if storing for more than a month change their
substrate monthly to keep them healthy
feeding freshly moulted mealworms is
preferred as their outer shell is softer and
easier on your reptile’s digestive tract
Superworms:
• are fairly nutritionally complete but still require
adjustment
• cannot keep superworms cold
• at room temp should last for a month or so
• once a week change the substrate to keep them
healthy
• feeding freshly moulted superworms is preferred as
their outer shell is softer and easier on your reptile’s
digestive tract
Butterworms:
• are brightly colored and have an enticing
smell
• have at least twice as much calcium as
any other feeder insect (especially good
for growing reptiles and pregnant
females)
• they do not require any gut loading
• can survive for 1- 4 months if cared for
properly - store in a refrigerator to keep them
cool and dry (will slow metabolism)
• If their substrate becomes damp, change it
(oatmeal, wheat bran, corn meal works well).
Check the worms an hour after changing the
substrate. They should be webbing the
substrate together to hide under. If the
worms are not doing this, change the
substrate immediately.
Waxworms:
• colour and taste attracts most animals
• high in fat so should be used as treats
(can lead to addiction if fed to often)
• otherwise are very nutritionally complete
• cannot be gut loaded but should still be
dusted with calcium and vitamins as per
your veterinarian's recommendations
• must be kept cold
• if kept cold and dry can last up to a month
• if their substrate becomes damp change it –
they won’t eat it – purpose is to help keep
them dry
Silkworms:
• can be fed to smaller animals making
them ideal for all kinds of reptiles
• require a warm and humid environment
with plenty of food
• should be allowed to feed constantly for
maximum growth rates
• silkworm chow is easily prepared and fed,
allowing you to grow the worms to any
size you wish
Types of
Gutload
Chicken Mash
• A great base for all homemade gut loads
• A standard chicken feed used for egg
laying chickens
• Make sure it has no added herbicides,
fungicides, antibiotics or growth
hormones
• can last indefinitely if kept cool and in a
dark place
Bee Pollen
• considered nature's most complete food
by many
• contains 22 elements and more protein
per gram than any other natural food
• has stress reducing and alertness
enhancing properties
Cricket Chow
• specially designed to meet the
dietary requirements of crickets
• usually does not require any cooking
Dehydrated Alfalfa Powder
• fresh alfalfa is one of the best sources for
great calcium to phosphorous ratios
• typically has an 8:1 ratio
• shelf life is extended greatly when it is
dehydrated - will last indefinitely if kept
cool and dark (some nutrition is lost)
• human grade powder is an excellent
source of nutrients for your reptiles
Rodent Chow
• A well balanced food for rats - dry pellets
• keep in a dark cool place and it will last
indefinitely BUT should be used within 3
months for best results
• formula supplies complete life-cycle
nutrition designed to support
reproduction, lactation, growth, and
maintenance of rats
Spirulina
• a tiny aquatic plant that offers 60%
protein plus essential vitamins, minerals,
phytonutrients, antioxidants, fatty acids,
and more
• is the world's highest source of beta
carotene (brings out the reds, oranges,
and yellows in your reptile)
• can be found in tropical fish food
Gut Load Mixes
• Example: Boil water and add one part of boiled
water to one part of the gut load mix, allow to
cool in the refrigerator.
• Do not boil the water with the gut load mix
already in it or else the probiotic cultures will be
eliminated.
• Do not prepare more than you can use in a
couple of days (to ensure the highest quality
feed).
• Store unprepared gut load mix in a cool/dark
place for maximum shelf life.
Water Gel
• simple way to provide water to your
crickets without worrying about drowning
• have a long shelf life and are readily
accepted
• contains no nutritional value
• Some water gels are enriched with
calcium and this shortens the life span of
the crickets and other insects
considerably.
Healthy feeders are the
foundation for happy and
healthy reptiles.
Just as no feeder should be fed a diet
consisting of only one type of food, no
reptile should be fed a diet consisting of
only one type of feeder.
Questions
or
Comments?