Transcript Landscape Maintenance

Landscape Maintenance
What actions are necessary to maintain a
landscape?
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Watering
Weeding
Pruning
Deadheading
Mulching
Fertilizing
Proper installation (& removal) of plants
Winterization
Watering
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Watering is done for:
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Newly installed plants to establish – few times per week – both woody and
herbaceous plants
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Dry weather periods-once plants have been established at least 1-2 yrs
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How to water:
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Avoid getting water on leaves – sun will burn leaves & water encourages fungal
diseases
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Deeply & only when needed - needs to wet soil 12-16” depth
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Water in early morning if possible – this reduces these problems, as the water will
evaporate
soil should be dry 1” down (under mulch)
Trees/shrubs in ground – once every 2 weeks if established and no rain
Annuals/perennials in ground –depends on plant –every few days/once per week
Overwatering
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If you touch the soil 1” below the surface and it is moist – DON’T water
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Overwatering suffocates roots & encourages disease
Winter Damage
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If trees & shrubs do not get sufficient water in the summer, they will not survive
the winter (especially new plantings)
Fertilizing
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Fertilize in spring & early summer
 Repeat fertilization for annuals & perennials every few weeks in
summer (stop perennials in Sept)
 Trees & Shrubs only in spring
Do NOT give landscape plants a fertilizer with high nitrogen in the fall
 This will interfere with winter dormancy preparation
Trees/shrubs should be fertilized directly below the outer canopy –
this is where the active roots are – not near the trunk
Do NOT get fertilizers on the leaves – the sun will hit it & burn the
leaves
Over fertilization will cause plants to burn (high concentration of salt)
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Liquid fertilizers – immediate results
Plant Tone – organic dry fertilizer – slowly releases nutrients over several weeks
Weeding
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Weed = any unwanted plant in an area
Weeds compete with resources of desired
plant:
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Sunlight
Water
Nutrients
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Weeds may also attract insects & diseases
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Deadheading
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Deadheading = removing dead flowers (&
leaves) from herbaceous plants
This is done so the plant focuses it’s energy
into living parts of the plants
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Deadheading encourages new flowers & leaves
Pruning
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Pruning should only be done for the following
reasons on trees/shrubs:
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Diseased/damage branch
Encourage a fuller plant
Keep good structure - prevent branches from crossing over
each other
You should NOT prune to:
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Make shapes out of plants
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no animals (unless it is a theme park/garden)
no meatballs – keep plants in their natural shape (choose the
correct shape of a plant when designing for the area)
Keep a large tree/shrub small (plant the right size)
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This is unhealthy for the plant
Herbaceous plants (annuals/perennials) – ok to prune back to
smaller sizes – some spread too much
Proper Pruning & Deadheading
-Prune/deadhead to the nearest branch/set of leaves that will
maintain the shape of the plant
-Do not prune when transplanting or plant will go into shock – plant
needs its leaves to establish in new area
(deadheading & removing damaged branch ok)
-If pruning to make a fuller plant, prune in spring:
*if done to late in fall, plants may not heal before winter
*if pruning flowering trees/shrubs, prune directly after the bloom
(this will prevent cutting off the flower buds that are forming)
Mulching
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Functions of mulch:
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Cools/retains heat in soil
Reduces weeds
Holds moisture
Reduces lawnmower damage
Prevents soil erosion
Nice looking
SOME MULCHES (like Sweet Peet) add nutrients
You must REMOVE old mulch (especially bark mulch)
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The soil level will get deeper if you keep piling mulch – then roots
can’t breathe
Sweet Peet – usually can leave on without removing old because it
decomposes quickly. However you may need winter protection when
using Sweet Peet because it decomposes by the winter.
Don’t place mulch in direct contact with the trunk of
the tree/stem of plant
Will rot away stem/trunk
Mulch should be 3” thick when applied to be effective
Mulch should extend to the canopy line of the tree/shrub – this is where the
active roots are
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Mulch against the trunk will rot it.
Too much mulch will prevent
water from getting to the roots &
will create anaerobic (toxic)
conditions
Proper Transplanting
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Do not pull the plant out of the container by the stem – turn pot
over – use a pruner or shovel to cut slashes on trees/shrubs
Break up the roots – or they will continue to circle & fail to get
nutrients, as well as cause the plant to fall over in poor weather
Dig a hole that is slightly bigger than the rootball
Dig a hole to a depth where the new soil level will be at the soil
level of the pot – not burying the stem (will rot) – but not so the
plant is above the ground (will dry out)
Firm soil lightly after planting (too firm will compact soil =squeeze
air out)
Water gently & deeply
Planting
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Best Scenario -plant trees/shrubs in fall
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Summer – really tough
Plant by mid-Oct so roots can adjust prior to ground freeze
Dig hole diameter larger than rootball, but don’t add
amendments (fertilizer, peat) to soil because it actually may
inhibit roots from growing out & establishing
If planting balled/burlapped, plant tree/shrub in hole
in burlap,untie the burlap and bury it in the soil – be
sure it isn’t sticking out
DON’T FERTILIZE WHEN PLANTING unless you
are using a slow release fertilizer – too much stress
at one time
Dividing
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You can divide perennials anytime, but spring
is best
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Less stress on plant, as it has just begun to grow
Dig up most of the plant – be sure to dig a
larger rootball than the plant
Preparing Plants for Winter
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General rule – if you have to wrap your plant
up in burlap to protect it, don’t bother planting
that type of tree/shrub in that area
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Broadleaved evergreens shouldn’t be planted in
windy areas
For perennials, cover with mulch, leaves,
straw, etc to protect plants from when ground
heaves from freezing & thawing (roots are left
exposed from heaving)