Transcript chemicals used in skincare and cosmetics

CHEMICALS
USED IN
SKINCARE AND
COSMETICS
By: Mary Samimi and Cassie
Foglia
History of Cosmetics
Today we live in a society that puts a lot of value on
how we look. Many people have been trying to find
the fountain of youth for centuries but have not
been able to fight the effects of aging. It is
interesting to look back in time and see the
evolution of cosmetic chemistry.
Their have been a lot of accidental discoveries in
science and we would be naive to think that
cosmetics isn’t one of them.
History of Cosmetics
The Ancient Egyptians were the earliest users of
cosmetics for personal, religious, and burial uses.
They would keep their skin lubricated by applying
fragrant oils, lotions or ointments.
The word ‘cosmetics’ comes from the greek word
‘kosmetikos’ which means skilled in decorating.
Around 200A.D. Galen, a Greek physician, mixed
rose water, beeswax, and olive oil together to
create the first modern cosmetic compound: Cold
Cream.
History of Cosmetics
During the Elizabethan Era facial masks were all the
rage and formulas for these lotions were made from
ingredients such as powdered eggshell, alum,
borax, ground almond, poppy seeds, milk, butter,
wine, fruits, and vegetables.
History of Cosmetics
Today the cosmetic industry has evolved and
become much more complex with the use of
chemicals as active ingredients. Now, cosmetics
have to be tested before they can be consumed by
the masses. It will be interesting to look into the future
a century from now and see how much cosmetics
have changed and evolved to meet the needs of
22nd century consumer.
Roles of Ingredients in
Cosmetics
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There are several terms that are commonly used to describe
the role of ingredients in cosmetics and skincare products:
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Solvent
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Emollient
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Large group of ingredients used to dissolve or break down other
ingredients
Used to degrease skin and remove sebum
Supple, wax like, lubricating, thickening agents
Prevent water loss
Has softening and soothing effect on the skin
Surfactant
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Surface active agent
Degrease and emulsify oils and fat and suspends oil, allowing them
to wash away
Used in most forms of cleaners
Many gentle and effective on skin, some can be sensitizing, drying,
and irritating for skin if they are main ingredients in a cleanser
Roles of Ingredients in
Cosmetics
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Emulsifier
 Ingredient that keeps unlike ingredients from separating (like
oil and water)
Fragrance
Volatile and fragrant plant oils (some are synthetic oils) that
add odor to products
 Often skin irritants
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Preservatives
Substance used to prevent bacterial and microbial
contamination products
 Provide risk of skin irritation, however using contaminated
products can have much greater impact on the skin and
eyes
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Anti-inflammatory
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Ingredients that reduce signs of inflammation, swelling,
tenderness, pain, irritation, or redness
Arbonne vs. Clinique
 For
this presentation we will be comparing two
cosmetics and skincare companies to see the
difference in ingredients used
 The companies are: Arbonne International, and
Clinique
 Business models and products will be examined
Arbonne
 33
year-old cosmetics, skincare, and nutrition
company
 Botanically based products
 Vegan certified
 All products are made based on Swiss guidelines

Over 2500 chemicals used in American cosmetics
are illegal in Switzerland
 Products
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are paraben free
Parabens have been found in breast cancer tumors
Marketing and Distribution
 Arbonne
sells products through network marketing
 Company employs independent consultants to
inform customers and sell products
 Products are manufactured and sent to customers
through online orders
 Advertising is done through catalogs, online
webpage, and by providing incentives to
consultants
Clinique
 46
year old company
 Company sells skincare
and cosmetic products
 Products are
hypoallergenic, fragrance
free, and created based
on dermatology principles
 Available in 83 countries
and territories
Marketing and Distribution
 Implementation
of strong promotional effort
 External, in-store, and website advertising is
used
 Promotions done through national ads,
magazines, and in-store marketing strategies
 Products are purchased through upscale
department sores, specialty retailers,
perfumeries and pharmacies
 Lesser distribution done though freestanding
company stores and spas
Products investigated
Arbonne Face Cleanser
 extra-gentle,
sulfate-free
cleanser
 Clinically tested for safety and
gentleness
 washes away makeup, excess
oil and dirt without irritating or
over-drying the skin
 Safe for daily use
Clinique Liquid Facial Soap
 Soft,
non-drying lather
cleans gently, rinses
easily
Protects skin's natural
moisture balance so
there's no taut or dry
feeling.
Ingredients
Water,
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Sodium Chloride
Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine
Lauramidopropyl Betaine
Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate
Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate
Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate (DMA)
Aloe
Barbadensis
PEG120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate
Sucrose
Sodium m Hyaluronate
Cetyl Triethylmonium
Dimethicone PEG-8 Succinate
Tocopheryl Ethyl Succinate
Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate,
Butylene
Glycol
Chamomilla Recutita
Hexylene Glycol
Polyquaternium-7
Laureth-2
Caprylyl Glycol
Sodium Sulfate
EDTA
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Comparisons
 Clinique
 This
contains Sodium Laureth Sulfate
is a chemical used in cleaning products and
cosmetics to cause foaming (used in shampoos)
 Depending on manufacturing process it can be
contaminated with ethylene oxide and 1,4dioxane which are human carcinogens
 Sodium Laureth Sulfate is also an eye and
respiratory tract irritant
Mascara
 creates
the
appearance of
longer-looking lashes
Clinique High Impact
Mascara
 Adds
volume and
length
Ingredients
Comparisons
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BTH
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Benzyl alcohol
Some overlap between ingredients
Two ingredients that are found in
Clinique products that are
particularly harmful are butylated
hydroxytoluene (BTH) and benzyl
alcohol
BHT is found to be toxic in high
doses and a tumor promoter (it
can mimic estrogen in the body)
Benzyl alcohol is an eye and skin
irritant. It’s presence in mascara
can cause redness to the eyes
Cover-up
 multitasking10-in-1
Complexion Control
 botanicals soothe and
hydrate to protect skin’s
moisture barrier4
 lightweight coverage
builds to conceal
blemishes and dark spots,
and minimizes the
appearance of pores
Clinique Moisture Surge
CC Cream
 Lightweight
formula
instantly colour corrects
a range of complexion
concerns (redness,
dullness, sallowness)
 Leaves a healthylooking glow
 Oil-free and contains
sunscreen
Active Ingredients
 Octinoxate
 Octisalate
 Titanium
Dioxide
 Zinc Oxide
 Octyldodecyl neopentanoate
Comparisons
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Both companies contain skin conditioning agents.
Arbonne:
Octyldodecyl myristate
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Clinique:
Octyldodecyl neopentanoate
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Both chemicals are used as a sunscreen and have
no harmful effects on humans.
Overall Comparisons
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Both Clinique and Arbonne produce high quality
cosmetics and skincare producs
Prices of products are quite similar
Marketing and product distribution is very different for
these two companies, although both companies seem
to be benefiting from their respective systems and both
have been around for decades
Arbonne has very accessible ingredient lists, making it
more consumer friendly. Clinique’s lists were much
harder to find
Although Clinique is hypoallergenic and fragrance free
it still does contain ingredients that can be harmful and
cause irritation
References
Definitions: http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmeticingredient-dictionary/definition/anti-inflammatory
Arbonne:
 Arbonne ingredient policy:
https://www.arbonne.ca/products/index.asp
 http://www.arbonne.ca/company/opportunity/disc
over_arbonne.asp#
 Ingredients:
 https://thesourceca.arbonne.com/posts/591987
 https://thesourceca.arbonne.com/posts/592056
 https://thesourceca.arbonne.com/posts/673067
 https://www.arbonne.ca/products/index.asp
Clinique:
o Marketing Plan:
http://www2.econ.univpm.it/servizi/hpp/
micozzi/documenti/Clinique_Marketing_Pl
an.pdf
o Ingredients:
o http://cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_fabd1
10186.html
o http://cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_651516
203.html
o http://cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_372347
076.html