Transcript Oceanic
Unit 10 Oceans
Mr. Ross Brown
Brooklyn School for Law and
Technology
How do we learn about Earth’s
oceans?
• 23 March 2016
• Do now: What separates the different oceans
of the Earth?
In this unit we will learn about:
• The Water Planet
– Divisions of Global Oceans
– Ocean Exploration
• Features of the Ocean Floor
– Continental Margins
– Deep Ocean Basins
• Ocean Floor Sediments
– Sources of Deep Ocean Basin Sediments
– Physical Classification of Sediments
How do we learn about Earth’s
oceans
• Almost 75% of Earth’s surface is ocean
– Earth is unique in our liquid water
• 3 Major Oceans
– Atlantic, Pacific, Indian
– Seas: smaller areas of water surrounded by land
– Pacific Ocean: more than 50% of oceans
• Average depth of 3.9 km
How do we learn about Earth’s
oceans
• How do we explore oceans?
– Oceanography: the study of physical
characteristics, chemical composition, and
lifeforms in the ocean.
– Ocean floor: continental and oceanic crust under
the ocean waters.
How do we learn about Earth’s
oceans
• Submersibles: underwater research vehicles
• Bathysphere: spherical diving vessel
• Bathyscaphe: deep-research, self-propelled
Homework #21
• 23 March 2016
• How does Sonar enable an underwater vessel
to steer its way through the ocean depths?
What are the features of the ocean
floor?
• 24 March 2016
• Do now: if you could travel to the floor of the
ocean, what would you see?
What are the features of the ocean
floor?
• Ocean floor composed of two parts:
– Continental margin: shallow, continental crust
and sediments
– Deep ocean basin: oceanic crust and a thin layer
of sediment
What are the features of the ocean
floor?
• Continental shelf
– Part of continent covered by water
– Width varies
What are the features of the ocean
floor?
• Continental slope
– Past the shelf, steeper slope.
What are the features of the ocean
floor?
• Submarine canyon and continental rise
What are the features of the ocean
floor?
What are the features of the ocean
floor?
• Deep ocean basins
– Trenches: found near subduction zones, deepest
places on earth
What are the features of the ocean
floor?
• Abyssal plains: vast flat areas in deep ocean
basins
What are the features of the ocean
floor?
• Mid-ocean ridges
What are the features of the ocean
floor?
• Sea mounts
– Submerged volcanic mountains at least 1000m
high.
What are different ocean
environments?
• 29 March 2016
• Do now: Into how many different
environments can we divide the oceans?
What are different ocean
environments?
• Benthic zones (bottom)
– Intertidal or littoral zones (shallowest)
• Between low- and high-tide
• Unstable, yet life flourishes here
What are different ocean
environments?
• Sublittoral zone
– Shallow yet continuously submerged
– Largest number of benthic organisms
What are different ocean
environments?
• Bathyal zone
– Begins at continental slope and extends to 4,000m
deep
– Little sunlight, few plants, fewer organisms
• Abyssal zone
– No light, to 6,000m deep
What are different ocean
environments?
• Hadal zone
– In ocean trenches, deeper than 6,000m.
What are different ocean
environments?
• Pelagic zones
– Water zones. Animals living above the bottom.
– Neritic zone
• Above continental shelves. Good sunlight. Lots of
plankton.
What are different ocean
environments?
• Oceanic zone
– Deep and open oceans beyond continental shelf
– Divided into 4 zones based on amount of sunlight
• Epipelagic: uppermost. Abundant life. Tuna, dolphin,
sargassum weed.
• Mesopelagic, bathypelagic, abyssopelagic occur at
increasing depth. With depth, less sunlight, less life.
What are different ocean
environments?
How does water move about the
oceans?
• 30 March 2016
• Do now: What causes waves?
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Currents: identifiable patterns of ocean water
movement
– Surface currents: driven by winds
– Deep currents: move slowly, caused by differences
in water density
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Surface currents are controlled by:
– Wind belts
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Surface currents are controlled by:
– The Earth’s rotational effects
• Coriolis Effect
• Wind belts and Coriolis Effect combine to produce
Gyres, huge moving circles of water in oceans
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Gyres
How does water move about the
oceans?
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Our Gulf Stream
– Water from Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean Sea
pushes up along Eastern Seaboard
How does water move about the
oceans?
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Deep currents
– Cold, dense polar water sinks and flows beneath
warm ocean water towards the equator.
– Density differences due to temperature & salinity
How does water move about the
oceans?
How does water move about the
oceans?
• North Atlantic Deep Water
Homework #22
• 30 March 2016
• What force is responsible for most surface
currents?
• What two factors affect the density of ocean
water and cause deep currents?
• Answer in complete sentences or lose credit.
How does water move about the
oceans?
• 31 March 2016
• Do now: How can we measure the speed of a
wave?
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Waves: the periodic up and down movement
of water
– Crest: highest point of a wave
– Trough: Lowest point between two crests
– Wave height: vertical distance between crest and
trough
– Wave period: time it takes for one wavelength to
pass a given point
How does water move about the
oceans?
Wavelength
Wave speed = -----------------Wave period
How does water move about the
oceans?
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With no wind, water would appear like glass
Wind results in friction between air and water
More wind pushes against ripples
Waves grow
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Water movement in a wave
– The energy passes through the water, but the
water doesn’t move forward
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Wave size
– Determined by wind speed, length of time wind
blows, and fetch
– Fetch: distance the wind blows across open water
How does water move about the
oceans?
• When depth of water is about ½ wavelength,
the top of the wave gets ahead of the bottom
due to friction. The wave may topple over as a
breaker
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Undertow: water carried onto the beach by a
breaker is pulled back into deep water
• Rip current/ riptide: water returning from the
beach gets caught in channels, thus becoming
stronger. DANGEROUS!
How does water move about the
oceans?
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Tsunamis
– NOT caused by wind
– Caused by underwater seismic activity
How does water move about the
oceans?
• 1 April 2016
• Do now: Yes, tides are caused by the Moon’s
gravity. How?
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Tides
– Daily changes in the level of the ocean surface
– The gravitational pull of the Moon is strongest on
the Earth’s nearest side
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Also influenced by the Sun
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Spring tide: Earth, Sun, Moon aligned, tides
amplified.
• Neap tides: 1st and 3rd quarter Moon, so
Moon and Sun are at right angles relative to
the Earth. Smaller tides.
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Tidal currents: the movement of water caused
by tides.
• Flood tide moves toward the coast, ebb tide is
water moving away. Between flood and ebb is
slackwater.
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia Canada
• World’s greatest tidal range (high to low)
How does water move about the
oceans?
How does water move about the
oceans?
How does water move about the
oceans?
• Tidal currents at coastline can be impressive
• Influenced by shape of coastline
• Tidal bore: surge of water rushing upstream