Transcript Chemistry

Chemistry
Chapter 5 Tour: Chemistry
1
2
The pH Scale
Pages 118-119
Matter
Pages 111-117
 Describe matter, the five elements of
hair and the structure and behavior
of atoms and bonds
 Describe the pH scale and
values associated with
water, acids and alkalines.
3
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Pages 120-138
 Identify the precautions necessary for various
classifications of chemicals when working with
professional products and cosmetics.
Chemistry
Matter
Elements
Chemical Bonds
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
The amount of carbon in the
human body is enough to fill
about 9,000 lead pencils.
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Solids
Chemistry
CHEMISTRY
101
Organic
chemistry
Liquids
Elements
Inorganic chemistry
Gases
Protons
Physical change
Atoms
Neutrons
Chemical change
Molecules
Electrons
Matter
•
•
Anything that occupies space
Exists in 3 forms
2.
1.Liquids
3.
Solids
Gases
• Definite weight
weight,but
and
volume
indefinite
volume
andbut
shape
volume
indefinite
and
shapeshape
H2
O
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Matter
• Physical change
– change in the physical characteristics of a
substance without creating a new substance
– e.g. when water freezes and becomes ice it
is still water, but now it’s a solid instead of
a liquid
Matter
•
Chemical change
– Change in a substance that creates a new
substance with chemical characteristics
different from those of the original substance
– E.g. when hydrogen combines with oxygen to
form a new substance, water
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Matter
Chemistry is the scientific study of matter and the
physical and chemical changes of matter
1.
Organic chemistry: deals with matter that is
living or was alive, with carbon present
2.
Inorganic chemistry: studies matter that is
not alive, has never been alive and does not
contain carbon
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Beyond the Book
Matter
No matter its size or thickness, a piece
of paper cannot be folded in half more
than seven times.
http://www.hightechscience.org/funfacts.htm
Elements
•
•
•
All matter is composed of elements
There are 118 known elements
Most important for a cosmetologist to
know are carbon, oxygen, hydrogen,
nitrogen and sulfur
Use this acronym to remember the
elements found in hair:
COHNS
(Carbon, Oxygen, Hydrogen,
Nitrogen, Sulfur)
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Elements
Atoms
•
Smallest complete unit of an element
•
Composed of three main parts
1. Protons: positive electrical charge, located
in the nucleus
2. Neutrons: no electrical charge, located in
the nucleus
3. Electrons: negative electrical charge,
located around the nucleus
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Elements
Atoms
The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly
on the number of electrons in the outer shell.
Hydrogen
•
•
•
Simplest atomic structure
1 proton and 1 electron
Atomic number of 1
Hydrogen Atom (H)
Positive proton
Negative electron
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Elements
Molecules
•
Two or more atoms joined together by a
chemical bond
Two hydrogen
atoms, each with
one electron
One oxygen
atom and its
eight electrons
The result
is H2O
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Elements
Molecules
With an element, the atoms are the SAME
With a compound, the atoms are DIFFERENT
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Beyond the Book
Elements
The earththe
Consider
withshape
it’s core,
andmantle
design and
of the
crust.
atom.
An
egg,
It has
which
center
hasexamples
the(nucleus),
yolk, in
white
some
and shell.
Look
at
all ofa the
nature
space
Cells,
which
and then
have
annucleus,
outer layer
cytoplasm
(the
that follow
that
design.
electrons).
and
membrane.
Chemical Bonds
Amino Acids
•
•
Compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen,
hydrogen and nitrogen
22 common amino acids join together in chains
to become proteins
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Chemical Bonds
Amino Acids
Hair
• Form of protein called keratin
• 97% keratin protein
• 3% trace minerals
•
19 amino acids found in hair must all be present
or the structure won’t be hair
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Chemical Bonds
Peptide Bonds (End Bonds)
• Polypeptide bonds (“poly” means many)
connect thousands of amino acids together
•
Peptide bonds (end bonds) form when the
ends of amino acids join together
Peptide bonds are the
“backbone” of all protein molecules
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Chemical Bonds
Peptide Bonds (End Bonds)
Hair is the
linking together
of protein groups
•
•
Important not to disturb peptide bonds
Combination of alkaline chemicals and heat could
break these bonds and destroy the protein
structure
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Chemical Bonds
Side Bonds
•
Keratin strands are linked with four side bonds
– Hydrogen bond
– Salt bond
– Disulfide bond
– van der Waal’s Forces
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Chemical Bonds
Side Bonds: Hydrogen
• Works on principle that unlike charges attract
• Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to an
•
•
atom of another molecule with many negative
electrons
Hair has many hydrogen bonds, which are
individually very weak and can easily be broken by
heat or water
35% of hair’s strength is due to millions of
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
hydrogen bonds in structure
Matter
Chemical Bonds
Side Bonds: Salt
•
•
Result of attraction of unlike charges; the negative
charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the
positive charge in another
Account for 35% of hair’s resistance to change
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Chemical Bonds
Side Bonds: Hydrogen and Salt
•
•
•
Weakened by water, leaving the hair
more pliable
Wrapping the hair around a roller under tension
and drying it results in a new shape
New shape is only temporary because exposure
to water can break the new bonds
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Chemical Bonds
Side Bonds: Disulfide
•
•
•
Result of sulfur-type side chains joining with
other sulfur-type side chains
Most important bond to cosmetology
Many chemical services directly affect the
disulfide bond by either breaking it or
reforming it, producing a chemical change
with lasting results
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Chemical Bonds
Side Bonds: van der Waal’s Forces
•
•
Based on a theory that atomic groups prefer
an environment with other groups that have
similar structures
Not important for cosmetology services other than
to know that it exists and plays a role in bonding
protein chains
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Chemical Bonds
Stages of Hair Formation
The
protein
chains
bond,
side-by-side,
to other
The
bonding
of protein
chains
to other
protein
Hair
The
Atoms
ends
amino
begins
unite
of
acids
with
the
by
sharing
amino
individual
create
acids
electrons
polypeptide
atoms,
bond
to
the
to
become
protein
form
smallest
chains
through
hydrogen
chains
makes
human
hairbonds, salt bonds,
unit
peptide
chains
molecules
of
matter.
bonds
of
amino
acids
disulfide bonds, and van der Waal’s Forces
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Beyond the Book
Chemical Bonds
A single strand of hair can support a
load of about 100 grams without
breaking. This strength comes
primarily from the keratin protein.
http://www.pg.com
Matter Self-Check
On a sheet of paper numbered 1-8,
answer the following questions.
1. Anything that occupies space existing as a solid, liquid or
gas is termed __________.
2. All of the following are elements that form the basis of hair,
nails and skin EXCEPT:
a. Sulfur
b. Helium
c. Carbon
d. Oxygen
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Matter Self-Check
3. T or F
Atoms have a nucleus containing protons and electrons.
4. The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the
number of __________ in the outer shell.
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Matter Self-Check
Matching
5. Peptide Bond
6. Hydrogen Bond
7. Salt Bond
8. Disulfide Bond
a. Negative charge in one amino acid
grouping attracts the positive charge
in another
b. Backbone of all protein molecules;
formed when acid end of one amino
acid attaches to amino end of another
c. Hydrogen atom in one
molecule attracted to an atom of
another molecule with many
negative electrons
d. Most important bond to a
stylist’s work
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Matter Self-Check
As you correct your answers, evaluate your progress. Create a Know Chart
with 2 columns. Place correct answers from the Self-Check under the “I Know”
column. Then place incorrect answers under the “I Need to Study” column.
I Know:
I Need to Study:
1.
1.
2.
2.
3.
3.
4.
4.
5.
5.
6.
6.
7.
7.
8.
8.
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Matter Self-Check
Now check your work.
1. Anything that occupies space existing as a solid, liquid or
matter
gas is termed __________.
2. All of the following are elements that form the basis of
hair, nails and skin EXCEPT:
a. Sulfur
b. Helium
c. Carbon
d. Oxygen
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Matter Self-Check
3. T or F
Atoms have a nucleus containing protons and electrons.
Protons and neutrons are packed together tightly to form nucleus.
Electrons move about the nucleus on orbiting paths.
4. The chemical behavior of atoms depends mostly on the
electrons in the outer shell.
number of __________
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Matter Self-Check
5. Peptide Bond
b. Backbone of all protein molecules; formed when acid end of one
amino acid attaches to amino end of another
6. Hydrogen Bond
c. Hydrogen atom in one molecule attracted to an atom of
another molecule with many negative electrons
7. Salt Bond
a. Negative charge in one amino acid grouping attracts the
positive charge in another
8. Disulfide Bond
d. Most important bond to a stylist’s work
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Lessons Learned
Matter

 Matter is defined as anything that occupies space
Elements

 The five elements found in the hair are carbon, oxygen,
hydrogen, nitrogen and sulfur


consist of protons, neutrons and electrons
Atoms are the smallest complete unit of an element and
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Lessons Learned

 Protons and neutrons are located in the nucleus

 A molecule is two or more atoms joined together
by a chemical bond
Chemical Bonds




Hair is a form of protein called keratin
The peptide bond forms when two amino acids are
positioned end to end causing the acid end of one to
attach to the amino end of another
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Lessons Learned
Chemical Bonds

 Hair has many hydrogen bonds which gives hair about
35% of its strength

 Salt bonds are the result of the attraction of unlike
charges and account for another 35% of hair’s strength

 The disulfide bond is the most important to a
cosmetologist’s work since many chemical services break
or reform this bond into a new shape
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
IT’S 2 U!
Draw an example of a physical
change in matter; then, explain
why this is a physical change.
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Answer
IT’S 2 U!
Cutting a piece of paper is an example of a
physical change because the chemical
makeup of the paper remains the same.
Chapter 5.1
Chemistry
Matter
Chemistry
The pH Scale
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
Have you ever tested various
foods to determine their pH?
Whole Wheat Bread
pH 5.5 – 5.8
Tomatoes
pH 4.3 – 4.9
Oranges
pH 3.7 – 4.3
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
pH
CHEMISTRY 101
pH number
Acidic
pH balanced
Neutral
Acid balanced
Alkaline
The pH Scale
•
•
•
pH (potential hydrogen) is a unit of measurement
that indicates whether a substance is acidic,
neutral or alkaline
Measures the amount of acid or alkali in a
water-based solution
Only solutions containing water and/or which
dissolve in water can have an acidic or
alkaline nature
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
The pH Scale
Acidic Solution: More positive hydrogen
ions than negative hydroxide ions
Neutral Solution: Equal number of
positive and negative ions
Alkaline Solution: More negative
hydroxide ions than positive
hydrogen ions
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
The pH Scale
• Ranges from 0 to 14 with number 7 as neutral
• Numbers less than seven indicate acid
• Numbers greater than seven indicate alkaline
• Distilled water is neutral
• Scale is logarithmic, which means each step or
number increases by multiples of 10
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
The pH Scale
•
•
•
pH balanced means the pH is balanced at a
certain number
Acid balanced means pH is between 4.5 to 5.5
Acid balanced is term applied to most professional
shampoos and conditioners
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
The pH Scale
Beyond the Book
The pH of the body is greatly
influenced by your emotions.
Joyous, happy, love-filled
emotions tend to create alkalineforming chemical reactions in the
body.
Conversely, emotions which are
filled with anger, fear, jealousy,
hate, etc. create acidic-forming
chemical reactions in the body.
http://www.greatestherbsonearth.com
The pH Scale Self-Check
On a sheet of paper numbered 1-7,
answer the following questions.
1. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with numbers less
than 7 indicating alkaline.
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
The pH Scale Self-Check
2. Distilled water has equal numbers of hydroxide ions
and hydrogen ions causing it to be __________.
3. An acidic solution contains more __________ ions
than __________ ions.
4. An alkaline solution contains more __________ ions
than __________ ions.
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
The pH Scale Self-Check
Matching
5. Acidic solution
a. pH value of approximately 7
6. Alkaline solution
b. pH values less than 7
7. Neutral solution
c. pH values greater than 7
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
Matter
The pH Scale Self-Check
As you correct your answers, evaluate your progress. Create a Know Chart
with 2 columns. Place correct answers from the Self-Check under the “I Know”
column. Then place incorrect answers under the “I Need to Study” column.
I Know:
I Need to Study:
1.
1.
2.
2.
3.
3.
4.
4.
5.
5.
6.
6.
7.
7.
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
Matter
The pH Scale Self-Check
Now check your work.
1. The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14 with numbers less
than 7 indicating alkaline.
Numbers less than 7 indicate acid.
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
The pH Scale Self-Check
2. Distilled water has equal numbers of hydroxide ions
neutral
and hydrogen ions causing it to be __________.
hydrogen ions
3. An acidic solution contains more __________
hydroxide ions.
than __________
hydroxide ions
4. An alkaline solution contains more __________
hydrogen ions.
than __________
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
The pH Scale Self-Check
5. Acidic solution
b. pH values less than 7
6. Alkaline solution
c. pH values greater than 7
7. Neutral solution
a. pH value of approximately 7
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
Lessons Learned
The pH Scale

 pH (potential hydrogen) is a unit of measurement
that indicates whether a substance is acidic, neutral
or alkaline

 The pH scale ranges from 0 to 14


Numbers less than 7 on the pH scale indicate acid while
numbers greater than 7 indicate alkaline
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
Lessons Learned
 number increases by multiples of 10





to 5.5
The pH scale is logarithmic which means each step or
Distilled water has a pH value close to 7
Acid balanced means the pH is in the acid range of 4.5
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
IT’S 2 U!
Draw an example of a chemical
change in matter; then, explain
why this is a chemical change.
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
Answer
IT’S 2 U!
Burning wood is an example of a chemical
change because the chemical makeup of
wood is altered.
Chapter 5.2
Chemistry
The pH Scale
Chemistry
Cosmetic
Classification
s
Product
Information
Chemistry of
Cosmetics
Shampoos
Rinses and
Conditioners
Hair Color
Curl
Reformation
Perms
Relaxers
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
If you slowly pour a
handful of salt into a
totally full glass of water
it will not overflow.
In fact, the water level
will go down.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Solutions
Curl
Reformation
CHEMISTRY
101
Immiscible
Hydrometer
Lipophilic
Miscible
Emulsions
Oxidants
Surfactants
Amines
Metallic Dyes
Dimethicones
Hydrophilic
Quats
Cosmetic Classifications
•
Six general classifications categorize cosmetics
used in the cosmetology industry
1. Solutions
2. Suspensions
3. Emulsions
4. Ointments
5. Soaps
6. Powders
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Cosmetic Classifications
Solutions
•
•
•
•
Mixtures of two or more kinds of molecules, evenly
dispersed
Solute: substance that dissolves into a liquid and
forms solution
Solvent: substance that is able to dissolve
another substance
No separation when standing
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Cosmetic Classifications
Solutions
Water is the universal solvent because it is
capable of dissolving more substances
than any other solvent.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Cosmetic Classifications
Suspensions
• Mixture of two or more kinds of molecules
• Separate when left standing and need to be
•
•
shaken before use
Vinegar and oil as a salad dressing preparation is
an example
Calamine lotion is an example of a product
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Cosmetic Classifications
Emulsions
•
•
•
Two or more non-mixable substances united by a
binder or gum-like substance
Examples are oil-in-water (perm solution) and
water-in-oil (cold creams)
Most used in the cosmetology industry
are oil-in-water
Liquids not able to be mixed are IMMISCIBLE
Liquids able to be mixed together without
separating are MISCIBLE
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Cosmetic Classifications
Ointments
•
•
•
Mixtures of organic substances and a
medicinal agent
Water generally not present
Sticks (lipstick), pastes (some eye shadows or
blush) and mucilages (thick liquids such as
styling lotions)
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Cosmetic Classifications
Soaps
•
Mixtures of fats and oils converted to fatty acids
by heat and then purified
•
Include deodorant, beauty, medicated, and
antibacterial soaps
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Cosmetic Classifications
Powders
•
•
Equal mixtures of inorganic and organic
substances that do NOT dissolve in water
Sifted and mixed until free of coarse, gritty
particles
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Cosmetic Classifications
Beyond the Book
The cochineal insect, which lives
on the prickly pear cactus in the
southwestern United States, is an
excellent source of natural red dye.
The insects are dried and ground
into a powder that is cooked to
release the maximum amount of color.
The powder is then used as a dye for fiber, fabric,
and basketry materials. Most brands of lipstick and
some kinds of fruit drinks are tinted with cochineal
extract.
Shampoos
•
•
•
Clean the scalp and hair to remove all foreign
matter without adversely affecting scalp or hair
Should be a soothing, relaxing experience
Improper or irregular cleansing allows a breeding
place for disease-causing bacteria
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Shampoos
How Shampoo Works
•
•
•
Shampoo contains a surfactant, which is used to
remove oil from the hair
Surfactant is a two-part molecule
1. Water-loving part (hydrophilic)
2. Oil-loving part (lipophilic)
Surfactant causes oil to “roll up” into droplets,
which are lifted into water and washed away
Lipophilic
Oil
Hydrophilic
Water
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Shampoos
The Role of Water
•
Hard water contains certain salts
and metals that prevent shampoo
from lathering
•
Soft water contains small amounts
of minerals and is preferred
because it lathers freely
Water makes
up 85% of the
human body
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Shampoos
The Role of Water: Water Purification
•
•
Sedimentation: undesirable substances sink to
the bottom
Filtration: undesirable substances pass through
a porous substance
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Shampoos
Types of Shampoos
All-purpose shampoos
• Contain a low alkaline content and a low
concentration of surface active agents
• Do not strip color and are very mild
Acid-balanced (non-stripping) shampoos
• Formulated to have the same pH as the hair and
skin and can be used on all types of hair
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Shampoos
Types of Shampoos
“Plain” shampoos
• Usually strong and contain a high alkaline soap
base and are not recommended for chemically
treated or damaged hair
Soapless shampoos
• Lather without harsh alkaline ingredients
• Effective in both soft and hard water
• Rinse out easily
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Shampoos
Types of Shampoos
Medicated shampoos
• Designed to treat scalp and hair problems or
disorders
Clarifying shampoos
• Use a higher alkalinity in order to remove residue
such as product build-up, dirt, etc
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Shampoos
Types of Shampoos
Anti-dandruff shampoos
• Contain an anti-fungus or germicide to
control dandruff or other conditions that could
breed infections
Liquid dry shampoos
• Cleanse the scalp and hair when the client is
unable to receive normal shampoo
• Effective in cleaning wigs and hairpieces
• Highly flammable and should be used with caution
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Shampoos
Types of Shampoos
Powder dry shampoos
• Formulated for clients who are bedridden
• Contain orris root powder that absorbs soil and oil
as the product is brushed through the scalp and hair
Conditioning shampoos
• Contain additives that can improve the tensile
strength and porosity of hair and will be removed
with next shampoo
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Shampoos
Types of Shampoos
Color shampoos
• Contain temporary color molecules that adhere to
the outer cuticle of the hair and deposit color
Shampoos for thinning hair
• Formulated as gentle shampoos, with a lighter
molecular weight that does not cause damage or
weigh hair down
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Beyond the Book
Shampoos
Using borax or egg yolks for
shampoo, most women washed
their hair once a month in 1902.
Rinses and Conditioners
COSMETIC APPEARANCE
is the luster or shine of the hair
POROSITY
is the amount of moisture the hair can absorb
MANAGEABILITY
is how easily a comb can pass through the hair
ELASTICITY
is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to
its natural shape without breaking
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Rinses and Conditioners
Rinses
•
Affect mostly the surface of the hair
•
Applied to help close the cuticle and make hair
feel soft and manageable
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Rinses and Conditioners
Rinses
Vinegar and lemon (acid) rinses
• Keep the cuticle compact
• Dissolve soap scum and curds, untangle and
separate the hair and add sheen
Creme rinses
• Soften and add luster
• Slightly acidic
Medicated rinses
• Control minor dandruff and scalp conditions
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Rinses and Conditioners
Conditioners
•
Penetrate deep into the hair to fortify damaged
areas and protect from further damage from
chemical services or heat
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Rinses and Conditioners
Conditioners
Instant conditioners
• Coat hair shaft and restore moisture and oils
• Do not penetrate cortex or replace keratin in shaft
Normalizing conditioners
• Contain a vegetable protein and have an acidic
pH causing the cuticle to close after alkaline
chemical service
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Rinses and Conditioners
Conditioners
Body-building conditioners
• Penetrate damaged hair shaft and
deposit proteins into cortex
Moisturizing conditioners
• Recommended for dry, brittle hair that has
been mechanically or chemically damaged
• Humectants will penetrate into each hair
shaft to bind and hold moisture
Customized conditioners
• Formulated to meet special
needs of a certain client
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Rinses and Conditioners
Ingredients for Conditioners
•
•
•
•
Most derived from animal or vegetable materials,
and a few come from minerals
Amines/Quats make hair easier to comb and
control static
Dimethicones give hair softness without weighing
it down
Fatty alcohols and acids give hair a smooth feel
when dry and make easier to comb; help retain
moisture
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Beyond the Book
Rinses and Conditioners
Existing in ancient times,
conditioner did not become
popular until the 1950s. The
ancient Egyptians created
conditioners out of fats and oils.
http://www.hot-hairstyles.com
Perms
•
Allow stylists to chemically reform hair into a wavy
or curly formation
Processing lotion is applied to break
Rinsing removes the processing lotion.
Hair
disulfide
is wrapped
bonds.around
This softens
perm tools
the protein
chosen
Neutralizer reforms disulfide
structure
to reflect
and
theallows
desired
protein
curl pattern.
chains to
bonds into new configuration.
assume shape of perm tool.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Perms
Fall into two primary categories:
1.
2.
Alkaline waves (cold waves); processed
without heat; pH of 8.0 - 9.5
Acid waves (heat waves); processed
with heat; wrapped with tension; pH of
6.9 - 7.2
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Perms
Alkaline waves
• Main ingredients are thioglycolic acid and
ammonium hydroxide which shortens the
processing time
Acid waves
• Main ingredient is glyceryl monothioglycolate
Neutralizers
• Main ingredient is either hydrogen peroxide,
sodium perborate or sodium bromate
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Beyond the Book
In 1905, the first heat permanent
waving machine was invented by
Charles Nessler.
Perms
Relaxers
•
•
•
Reduce curl in excessively curly or wavy hair by
changing molecular structure
Relaxing product is applied to hair and holds it in a
straight position; smoothing action is applied to
softened hair causing protein structure to relax to
straighter position
Neutralizing step reduces swelling caused by
alkaline formulas; causes hair to be held in new
straight configuration
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Relaxers
•
Two popular types of products to relax the hair
1. Sodium hydroxide
2. Ammonium thioglycolate
ALERT!
Sodium hydroxide
and thioglycolate
are not compatible.
Do not use one on
top of the other.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Relaxers
Beyond the Book
Sodium hydroxide is also used in
producing rayon and other
textiles, in making paper, in
etching aluminum, in making
soaps and detergents, and in a
wide variety of other processes.
http://education.yahoo.com
Curl Reformation
• Service used to loosen the texture of overly
•
•
•
•
curly hair; also called a soft curl perm
Chemical rearranger and curl booster are
thioglycolate-based
Chemical rearranger is rinsed before complete
relaxation of the hair takes place
Processing solution (curl booster) is applied
and perm rods are used to achieve the new
curl formation
Extending processing time can damage the
hair
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Beyond the Book
Curl Reformation
Curl reformation may remove
anywhere from 65 to 95 percent
of the hair’s curl.
Hair Color
•
General categories:
– Nonoxidative Color
– Oxidative Color
– Lighteners
– Developers
– Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Hair Color
Nonoxidative Colors
Temporary Colors
• Non-reactive, direct dyes that coat surface
of hair shaft
• Called certified colors and are accepted by the
government for use in foods, drugs and cosmetics
• Last until they are shampooed out
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Hair Color
Nonoxidative Colors
Semi-permanent colors
• Last through several shampoos
• Able to penetrate the cuticle layer of the hair
• Molecules are smaller in size and weight than
those in temporary color products
• Slightly alkaline
• Not mixed with oxidants and are used straight from
the bottle
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Hair Color
Oxidative Colors
Long lasting semi-permanent colors
• Use low volume peroxide to develop color
molecules and aid in color depositing
• Ammonia: colorless gas with a strong odor,
composed of hydrogen and nitrogen
• Only able to add color to hair
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Hair Color
Oxidative Colors
Permanent hair colors
• Colorless molecules combine with peroxide
resulting in colored molecules
• Molecules enter hair with the aid of alkaline
substance and oxidize in the cuticle and cortex,
linking together to form a permanent
colored molecule
• Can lighten natural color or deposit artificial color
• Removed only by chemical means or the hair
grows out and is cut off
• Primary ingredient is usually
paraphenylene diamine
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Hair Color
Oxidative Colors
ALERT!
Because allergies to
analine tints are
unpredictable,
manufacturer labels
prescribe a patch
test to be given 24
hours before any
application.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Hair Color
Lighteners
•
Lightening is also referred to as
bleaching or decolorizing
•
Involves oxidation of the natural
melanin in the hair
•
Made up of a combination of
ingredients including an alkaline
substance such as ammonia
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Hair Color
Lighteners
1. On-the-scalp lighteners
• Applied directly on the scalp
• Oil lighteners use ammonia to give high lift
• Cream lighteners contain conditioners, and
creamy consistency keeps them in place on
the hair preventing running or dripping
2. Off-the-scalp lighteners
• Contain alkaline salts and a strong oxidizing
agent that is mixed with peroxide
• Stronger than the oil or cream lighteners
• Lighten faster
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Hair Color
Developers
•
Hydrogen peroxide is most common developer
– Most often used strength is a 20 volume solution
– Hydrometer measures strength
– Shelf life is usually 3 years
– Store in a cool, dry place
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Hair Color
Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes
• Henna is an example of a vegetable dye; its
•
•
repeated use coats and builds up causing hair
damage
Called progressive colors because the more
these colors are used, the more color change
takes place
Pure metallic dyes are incompatible with other
chemical services
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Hair Color
Beyond the Book
Fascinated with hair dyes, the
Romans uncovered nearly 100
different formulas used to alter
hair color. Ingredients ranged
from leeches and charred eggs
to walnut shells.
http://www.hairboutique.com
Product Information
•
Material Safety Data Sheets from manufacturer
are the best source of information about a product
•
Additional resources are Federal Drug
Administration, United States Pharmacopeia and
International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Product Information
Cosmetic Ingredients
•
•
Ingredients listed on a product label are in order
of their concentration with the largest amount
listed first
More than 5000 different ingredients are used by
the cosmetic industry
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Product Information
Cosmetic Ingredients
• Moisturizers
• Preservatives
• Antimicrobials
• Thickeners
• Solvents
• Emulsifiers
• Color
• Haircolor
• pH Adjusters
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Product Information
Salon Products and their pH Ranges
•
Three ways of testing pH in professional products:
nitrazine paper, pH pencil and the pH meter
•
pH range of 4.5 – 5.5 keeps hair, skin and nails
closest to natural, healthy state
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Product Information
Health Risks
•
Possible health effects from chemicals you work
with depend on amount, toxicity, length of
exposure, mode of entrance to body and
individual sensitivity
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Beyond the Book
Product Information
You can develop an allergic reaction
to an ingredient in a product that
you have used for years. Therefore,
producers are required to list
ingredients in their products which
are likely to cause allergic reactions.
www.fda.gov
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
On a sheet of paper numbered 1-17,
answer the following questions.
1. Surfactants are used to remove oil from the hair.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
Matching
2. All-purpose shampoos
a. Formulated for clients who are
bedridden and cannot wet their hair
3. “Plain” shampoos
b. Contain high alkaline content and are
not recommended for chemically treated
hair
4. Medicated shampoos
c.
5. Anti-dandruff shampoos
Cleanse hair without correcting any
special condition
d. Formulated for either a dry or oily scalp
6. Powder dry shampoos
e. Contain ingredients designed to treat
scalp and hair problems or disorders
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
7. Which of the following rinses leaves the hair with a soft feel
by adhering to the hair shaft and is only slightly acidic?
a. lemon
b. creme
c. vinegar
d. medicated
8. Products that fortify damaged areas of hair and protect
against further damage from chemical services or heat are
called __________.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
9. All of the following statements regarding perms are true EXCEPT:
a. Perms allow stylists to chemically reform hair
b. The two primary categories of perms are alkaline waves and
acid waves
c. Main chemical ingredient found in alkaline waves is glyceryl
monothioglycolate
d. Main ingredient found in most neutralizers is either hydrogen
peroxide, sodium perborate, or sodium bromate
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
10. Sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate are the products
called __________ that reduce curl in excessively curly hair by
changing its molecular structure.
11. A soft curl perm loosens the texture of overly curly hair by:
a. using a low volume peroxide
b. using a thioglycolate-based product
c. rinsing the sodium hydroxide relaxer with disulfide
d. following a thioglycolic relaxer with a sodium hydroxide relaxer
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
Matching
12. Nonoxidative colors
a.
Referred to as bleaching or decolorizing and
always involves oxidation of natural melanin in
the hair
b.
A less professional category of hair color in
which the more of these colors are used, the
more color change takes place
c.
Not mixed with oxidants and are used straight
from the bottle
d.
Mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen
peroxide
e.
Most common agent is hydrogen peroxide
13. Oxidative colors
14. Lightening
15. Developers
16. Vegetable, Metallic
and Compound Dyes
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
17. When you read a product label, the ingredients are listed in
order of their __________.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
As you correct your answers, evaluate your progress. Create a Know Chart
with 2 columns. Place correct answers from the Self-Check under the “I Know”
column. Then place incorrect answers under the “I Need to Study” column.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
I Know:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
I Need to Study:
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
Now check your work.
1. Surfactants are used to remove oil from the hair.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
2. All-purpose shampoos
c. Cleanse hair without correcting any special condition
3. “Plain” shampoos
b. Contain high alkaline content and are not recommended for
chemically treated hair
4. Medicated shampoos
e. Contain ingredients designed to treat scalp and hair problems or
disorders
5. Anti-dandruff shampoos
d. Formulated for either a dry or oily scalp
6. Powder dry shampoos
a. Formulated for clients who are bedridden and cannot wet their hair
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
7. Which of the following rinses leaves the hair with a soft feel
by adhering to the hair shaft and is only slightly acidic?
a. lemon
b. creme
c. vinegar
d. medicated
8. Products that fortify damaged areas of hair and protect
against further damage from chemical services or heat are
conditioners
called ______________.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
9. All of the following statements regarding perms are true EXCEPT:
a. Perms allow stylists to chemically reform hair
b. The two primary categories of perms are alkaline waves and
acid waves
c. Main chemical ingredient found in alkaline waves is glyceryl
monothioglycolate
d. Main ingredient found in most neutralizers is either hydrogen
peroxide, sodium perborate, or sodium bromate
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
10. Sodium hydroxide and ammonium thioglycolate are the products
relaxers that reduce curl in excessively curly hair by
called __________
changing its molecular structure.
11. A soft curl perm loosens the texture of overly curly hair by:
a. using a low volume peroxide
b. using a thioglycolate-based product
c. rinsing the sodium hydroxide relaxer with disulfide
d. following a thioglycolic relaxer with a sodium hydroxide relaxer
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
12.Nonoxidative colors
c. Not mixed with oxidants and are used straight from the bottle
13.Oxidative colors
d. Mixed with an oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide
14.Lightening
a. Referred to as bleaching or decolorizing and always involves
oxidation of natural melanin in the hair
15.Developers
e. Most common agent is hydrogen peroxide
16.Vegetable, Metallic and Compound Dyes
b. A less professional category of hair color in which the more
of these colors are used, the more color change takes place
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry of Cosmetics Self-Check
17. When you read a product label, the ingredients are listed in
order of their concentration
_____________.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Lessons Learned
Shampoos

 Shampoos contain surfactants that have a water-loving
part (hydrophilic) and an oil-loving part (lipophilic) and
are used to remove oil from the hair

 All-purpose shampoos contain a low alkaline content
and a low concentration of surface active agents

 “Plain” shampoos can be used successfully on virgin
hair in good condition, but are not recommended for
chemically treated hair
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Lessons Learned

 Medicated shampoos contain ingredients designed to


treat scalp and hair problems or disorders
Anti-dandruff shampoos are formulated for either a dry or
oily scalp and contain an anti-fungus or germicide
ingredient and conditioners

 Powder dry shampoos are formulated for clients who are
bedridden and cannot wet their hair
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Lessons Learned
Rinses and Conditioners

 Creme rinses are creamy in appearance and adhere to
the hair shaft leaving the hair with a soft feel

 Conditioners fortify damaged areas of the hair and
protect it against further damage from chemical
services or heat
Perms
 Perms fall into two categories, alkaline waves and acid

waves, and allow stylists to chemically reform hair into a
wavy or curly formation
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Lessons Learned
Relaxers

 A chemical relaxer reduces curl in excessively curly or
wavy hair by changing its molecular structure
Curl Reformation


products to relax overly curly hair and then perm the hair
A soft curl perm is a service that uses thioglycolate-based
to achieve a new curl formation
Hair Color

 Nonoxidative colors are not mixed with oxidants and are
used straight from the bottle

 Oxidative colors are mixed with an oxidant such as
hydrogen peroxide
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Lessons Learned

 Lightening the hair is also referred to as bleaching or
decolorizing and always involves oxidation of the
natural melanin in the hair

 Hydrogen peroxide is the most common developer used
in hair coloring and in hair lightening
Product Information

 When you read a product label, the ingredients are
listed in the order of their concentration
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
IT’S 2 U!
On a sheet of paper complete the
following statements.
My atomic number is one and my symbol is H; I
am classified as a gas. My name is _________.
My atomic number is six and my symbol is C; I
am classified as a solid. My name is ________.
My atomic number is eight and my symbol is O;
I am classified as a gas. My name is ________.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
IT’S 2 U!
Now check your work.
My atomic number is one and my symbol is H; I
Hydrogen
am classified as a gas. My name is _________.
My atomic number is six and my symbol is C; I
Carbon
am classified as a solid. My name is ________.
My atomic number is eight and my symbol is O;
Oxygen
I am classified as a gas. My name is ________.
Chapter 5.3
Chemistry
Chemistry of Cosmetics
Chemistry Self-Test
On a sheet of paper numbered 1-10,
answer the following questions.
1. Which of the following conditions indicates a
chemical change?
a. water to ice
b. water to steam
c. oxygen and hydrogen combining to form water
d. raindrops turning to snow
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chemistry Self-Test
2. The three main parts of an atom are:
a. protons, neutrons and electrons
b. protons, elements and compounds
c. neutrons, shells and electrons
d. electrons, atoms and elements
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chemistry Self-Test
3. Amino acids that create proteins are linked together
end to end by:
a. alkaline bonds
b. peptide bonds
c. side bonds
d. salt bonds
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chemistry Self-Test
4. The pH scale measurement indicates whether a
substance is:
a. a liquid, solid or gas
b. organic or inorganic
c. young or old
d. acidic, neutral or alkaline
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chemistry Self-Test
5. All of the following statements regarding pH are true
EXCEPT:
a. pH measurement scale ranges from 0 to 14
b. a solution is acidic if it has more negative
hydroxide ions
c. solutions with equal hydrogen and hydroxide ions
are neutral
d. pH is a unit of measurement that indicates
whether a substance is acidic, neutral or alkaline
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chemistry Self-Test
6. When a solute is dissolved in a solvent it is a(n):
a. suspension
b. emulsion
c. solution
d. ointment
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chemistry Self-Test
7. A solute mixed in a solvent that tends to separate if
left standing is a(n):
a. suspension
b. emulsion
c. solution
d. ointment
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chemistry Self-Test
8. Which item is formed when two or more non-mixable
substances are united with the help of a binder?
a. solution
b. powder
c. ointment
d. emulsion
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chemistry Self-Test
9. Most ingredients for conditioners are proteins
derived from:
a. soft water
b. lemon rinses
c. creme rinses
d. animal or vegetable materials
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chemistry Self-Test
10. A product label has the ingredients listed in:
a. order of their concentration
b. reverse order of their concentration
c. random order
d. alphabetical order
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chemistry Self-Test
Time to check the self-test
1. c. oxygen and hydrogen combining to
form water
2. a. protons, neutrons and electrons
3. b. peptide bonds
4. d. acidic, neutral or alkaline
5. b. a solution is acidic if it has more negative
hydroxide ions
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chemistry Self-Test
6. c.
7. a.
8. d.
9. d.
10. a.
solution
suspension
emulsion
animal or vegetable materials
order of their concentration
Chapter 5
Chemistry
Chapter 5: Chemistry
A thorough understanding of the principles of
chemistry helps in marketing products, making
sound decision about appropriate services and
guarding the safety of your client.