Techniques of Pruning

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Transcript Techniques of Pruning

Techniques of Pruning
Original Power Point Created by Howard Henderson
Modified by GA Agricultural Education Curriculum Office
July 2002
5 Reasons For Pruning
1. To remove dead, diseased, insect-infested, or
broken branches.
2. To change the size or proportion of the plant.
3. To develop a special form or shape, such as in
hedge pruning or topiary and espalier work.
4. To remove wilted or dead flowers and seed pods.
5. To rejuvenate a declining shrub.
Equipment Used For
Pruning
• Pruning saw: has a coarse teeth setting; can cut through
green wood or dead wood without pinching the saw
• Lopping shears: used for cutting larger branches
• Hand shears: either have one blade plus a piece of metal
or have two blades; used like scissors
Equipment Used For
Pruning (Cont.)
• Pole pruner: has a saw and a hook; used to remove
branches 10-12’ overhead
• Chain saw: used extensively to remove large branches
that are 3” or more in diameter
• Power pole pruner: a small chain saw on an extended
handle; used to remove overhead branches
Pruning Methods
• Thinning: removal of certain branches from a plant
to open up the plant; used when you want to keep the
natural shape
• Heading back: removal of the end section of the
plant branches at the same height
• Renewal pruning: removal of old branches that are
large and unproductive
• Root pruning: involves cutting off all the lateral
roots of the plant with a sharp spade in a circular
pattern around the stem
How And When To
Prune
• Cutting at the proper angle:
- Cut the plant stem at a 90º angle
- When pruning, be sure that the
natural shape and form of the
plant is maintained.
• When:
- It depends on when the plant
flowers or bears fruit.
Special Pruning
Cases
• Andromeda: Prune to remove dead, faded flower clusters in
late spring. The new shoots should be pinched back to shape
the plant, which will cause the plant to develop new growth.
• Arborvitae: Prune before new growth begins in the spring.
DO NOT prune beyond the green leaves since this will result
in a permanent brown area.
• Aucuba: Pinching back results in a thicker plant with more
shape. If some of the leaves have turned black from winter
burn, remove them.
Special Pruning Cases (Cont.)
• Azalea: Prune after flowering to promote the production
of new growth. Pinching back new top growth stimulates
heavier blooming.
• Boxwood: Pruning boxwood is important to keep the
plant compact and full. Prune in the fall/early winter by
removing short branches with hand pruners. Also remove
diseased branches--be sure to dip the pruners in a 70%
alcohol solution between each cut to prevent the spread
of the disease. Do not use hedge shears since this causes
the leaves to brown.
Special Pruning Cases (Cont.)
• Fir: Prune to 1/2 the length of the candle. Growth may be
retarded by removing the tip bud before the candle
develops.
• Hemlock: Prune in the early spring before new growth
develops. This stimulates thicker growth and helps to
control plant size and shape.
• Holly: Prune various types of holly in December so that
the branches can be used for holiday decorating. Select and
cut the branches to develop the plant’s natural shape and
form. Holly may also be pruned in early spring before new
growth begins.
Special Pruning Cases
(cont.)
• Mountain Laurel: Prune to encourage growth of new
shoots. Oddly shaped, tall, or leggy plants may be pruned to
the ground to start new growth.
• Nandina: Prune the oldest canes to the ground to start new
growth. You can also prune to thin out the plant.
• Oleander: Prune the faded flower clusters. Remove the
top branches to induce new growth and to control the size
of the plant.
Special Pruning Cases
(Cont.)
• Pine: Prune about 1/2 of each candle in June. This
promotes thicker plant growth and the production of new
.
side shoots.
• Privet: Prune to control shape and size.
• Rhododendron: Pinch the flower truss after blooming to
prevent the formation of seed pods. After pinching, the
plant will produce new growth quicker and set more
flower buds for blooming in the following year.
Special Pruning Cases
(Cont.)
• Spruce: Prune 1/2 of their new growth candles in
August. This results in a fuller tree.
• Yew: Prune in the spring after the new growth has
hardened. Yews may be pruned in the summer to
control plant growth, if necessary.