Transcript Menyanthes trifoliata

HYDROFILTRAT MENYANTHES G
Antioxidant new generation for
firming application
The Concept
Fight against sagging and reshape the oval of your face
Improves and protects collagen
synthesis for a lifting effect
BE INSPIRED
Menyanthes trifoliata
Hydrofiltrat Menyanthes G: extracted from
Menyanthes trifoliata
• Hydrofiltrat Menyanthes G is an aqueous
extract of Menyanthes trifoliata obtained
by lixiviation
• Menyanthes is a monotypic genus of
flowering plant in the family
Menyanthaceae containing the single
species Menyanthes trifoliata.
• The name Menyanthes comes from the
Greek words menyein, meaning
"disclosing", and anthos, meaning "flower",
in reference to the sequential opening of
flowers on the inflorescence.
Menyanthes trifoliata: description
• Menyanthes trifoliata is characterized by a
horizontal rhizome with alternate, trifoliate
leaves.
• The inflorescence is an erect raceme of
white flowers.
• Menyanthes trifoliata occurs in bogs and
marshes in Asia, Europe, and North America.
The North American form is often referred
to as M. trifoliata var. minor Michx.
• It is known in English by the common names
bog-bean and buckbean, and in German as
Bitterklee or Fieberklee.
Menyanthes trifoliata: traditional uses
• Known in phytotherapy for its strengthening properties,
the parts used are the fresh leaves and the whole plant,
harvested from May till September when it’s still in
flower.
• A symbol of calm and rest, it is said that a daily cup of
Menyanthes can extend lifespan.
OBSERVE
Oxidative stress and free radicals,
What they are, what they do
Free radicals
• Molecular species with unpaired electrons : anion
superoxyde for example
very instable and oxidant for other molecules
• Trigger oxidative chain reactions called Oxidative Stress
• Responsible for cellular disorders which lead to premature
ageing, loss of firmness, fat gain, increase in skin
sensitivity…
Free radicals, origin and targets
Origin:
Goals in the skin:
Cellular targets:
• UV exposure
• fibroblasts
• Membranous lipids
• Air pollution
• adipocytes
• Mitochondria
• Cigarette smokes
• keratinocytes
• DNA
• Intracellular reaction which
use oxygen
ex: mitochondrial respiration
• proteins
• Vitamins
Implication of oxidative stress in loss of
firmness
• Vitamin C is responsible for collagen maturation
as well as its transport in dermis
• Vitamin C is very instable and sensitive to
oxidative stress
• When it is oxidized, Vitamin C is not functional
for collagen maturation
In-vitro tests
In-vitro test: antioxidant activity
DPPH test
ORAC test
800
12000
8000
6000
4000
2000
689
600
µoml ET/L
µoml ET/L
10000
700
9660
400
300
200
1668
395
148
94
100
0
0
Hydrofiltrat
Cranberry 1%
Menyanthes G
(pure)
(0.5% of Menyanthes trifoliata extract)
500
Quercetin 1%
ORAC test:
Developed by the American Agricultural Research Department.
Evaluation of the overall antioxidant capacity of an extract.
Hydrofiltrat
Cranberry 1%
Mentanthes G
(pure)
(0.5% of Menyanthes trifoliata extract)
Quercetin 1%
DPPH test:
Antioxidant capacity related to polyphenol content
Quercetin and Cranberry extracts (strong antioxidant properties) are used as positive controls
Hydrofiltrat Menyanthes G shows very strong antioxidant
capacities widely higher than Quercetin and Cranberry
In-vitro test: stabilisation of vitamin C and
improvement of collagen synthesis
In black, collagen fibres
put in evidence by
immunostaining
Vitamin C stimulates the
production and maturation
of collagen fibres
Culture of fibroblasts (control)
Culture of fibroblasts
+ Vitamin C
Culture of fibroblasts +
Culture of fibroblasts + Vitamin C
+ Oxidative Stress
Hydrofiltrat Menyanthes
G protects Vitamin C
from oxidation and
therefore restores the
maturation and
exportation of collagen
fibres in dermis
Vitamin C and Hydrofiltrat Menyanthes G 2%
+ Oxidative Stress
Vitamin C + oxydative stress= solution of Vitamin C prepared the day before using
REVEAL
Clinical test
Clinical test: Hydrofiltrat Menyanthes G 2%
Cutometry test
Protocol:
•
*p=0.025 Student test
Twice daily application on the face
and the neck during 28 days
0,25
•
•
15 volunteers between 46 and 57
years old
Measure of the firming effect ( in
Uf parameter) and the toning effect
( in the Ur parameter) of the skin
by cutometry on the cheeks
Results:
•
Increase in skin firmness up to
36%
(-14.6% on average)
•
Increase in skin tone up to 49%
(-19.7% on average)
Cutometry (mm)
*-15%
- 36%
0,2
0,15
0,1
*-20%
- 49%
0,05
0
J0
J28 Average
value
Uf parameter
J28 Optimum
value
Ur parameter
Firming effect observed by 78% of the volunteers
Clinical test: Hydrofiltrat Menyanthes G 2%
Fringe projection
Significant reduction of the facial oval volume: up to 18%
(-3% on average, p<0.05) observed by 80% of the
volunteers
Hydrofiltrat Menyanthes G 2%
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•
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Firming effect
Strong antioxidant capacities
Protects Vitamin C
Improves collagen synthesis
Firms the skin and improves the oval of the face
Synergetic effect with Vitamin C derived ingredients
• Preservative free, Ecocert approved
• INCI: Glycerine (and) Water (and) Menyanthes trifoliata extract
• % recommended : 2%
Press Book
Example of Finished Products
REDERMINE
Firming Wrinkle Repair Serum
Darphin / Estee Lauder
Predermine, a firming wrinkle repair serum, is Darphin’s newest
addition to its collection of anti-aging skincare products. The serum,
formulated with the brand’s Smart Firming System, reduces the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, as well as restores elasticity to
the skin.
The formulation also includes ingredients such as iris, menyanthes
trifoliate, dill, soy in addition to peptides which work to regenerate the
natural production of proteins.
The serum is recommended for all skin types exhibiting loss of
firmness and wrinkles. It can be used both morning and night, alone
or with a moisturizer, and under a mask depending on your skin’s
needs and issues.