Transcript University Links - Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service

Backyard Fruit Production
Discussion: Growing fruit in the backyard can be a very
rewarding experience but often times it is a challenge to
produce edible fruit in a backyard setting. Site selection,
variety selection, pruning, and pest control are not given
enough consideration by the average homeowner prior to
planting. A tremendous amount of information is available
concerning tree fruits and small fruits and throughout this
program references will be made to resources providing
additional information. This program was developed to assist
homeowners in the establishment, culture, and hopefully the
harvest of high quality tree fruits and small fruits.
The Basics
• Variety Selection - select adapted varieties
• Site selection - know fruit’s soil, light and moisture
requirements
• Soil fertility - know fruit’s nutrient requirements
• Understand the basics of soil fertility
• Pest control - plan for control of pest problems
Discussion: Variety Selection - it is important to select varieties
that are adapted to eastern Oklahoma.
Site selection - knowing the soil, light and moisture requirements
of the fruit is essential in selecting a planting site that is well
suited for the plant.
Soil fertility - it is important to know the nutrient requirements of
the fruit that is being grown. It is also important for growers to
Soil Texture
• Soil texture = Relative proportion of sand, silt, and clay in
the soil.
• 3 particles
– Sand - largest - gritty
– Silt - intermediate - powdery
– Clay - smallest - rubbery
• Extreme of any one particle type is undesirable.
Inset picture: Line drawing of “Textural triangle”.
Discussion: Soil type is critical to fruit production. Some fruit
trees have a very difficult time of surviving on heavier types of
soil during times when the soil remains wet for more than 48
hours.
The three soil textures in different combinations and ratios make
Soil Types
• Sand
– Leaching, drying
– Easy to till, good rooting
• Clay
– Poor drainage, difficult to till, poor rooting
– Fertile
• Loam
– Free movement of water and air
– Good water retention
– Fertile
– Little resistance to tillage
Soil Depth
• Combination
– Topsoil and subsoil
• Total of 4-6 feet is desirable
• Minimum of 10 in. of topsoil
Discussion: The deeper the soil the greater the
production potential. Shallow soils are going to have
problems with moisture retention, fertility, and
drainage.
Slope
• > 10% offers problems
– Excessive runoff
– Erosion
– Special management required
• South-facing slopes
– Earlier plantings
Discussion: The disadvantages of too much slope are
obvious. However, some slope can be desirable,
especially in helping to avoid late spring frosts.
In many cases a south facing slope is not desirable for
fruit crops, especially those that are susceptible to
Air Movement
•
•
•
•
Pest considerations
Damage to seedlings and transplants
Drift from adjacent properties
Adjustments
– Barriers
– Fencing
Discussion: Air movement can be good and bad. Too much
wind can lead to sand blasting of strawberries and
blueberries or the wind physically breaking the twigs and
branches of young fruit trees.
However, some air movement is desired to help avoid frost
damage on peaches, brambles and strawberries. Air
movement also helps to prevent the development of foliar
diseases.
Soil Fertility
• Sampling
• pH
• Nutrients
Discussion: Soil fertility and why it is critically important
to the growth and production of fruit.
Soil Sampling
•
•
•
•
Sample 15 to 20 random sites
6 inches deep
Combine and mix
Take 1 pint to County Extension Office
Inset picture: Soil probe, shovel and bucket with
soil sample
Discussion: Describe recommended procedure for
taking a soil sample to submit to the OSU Soils Lab.
Essential to test for soil pH and soil fertility. It should be
pointed out that making fertilizer recommendations
for a home orchard without the benefit of a soil test is
similar to trying to determine how much gasoline it
Soil pH scale
Inset picture: Illustration of pH scale
Discussion: pH is a measure of soil acidity/alkalinity.
On a pH scale 7.0 is neutral, less than 7 acidic,
greater than 7 alkaline. Most plant nutrients are more
available in mildly acidic soil (pH between 6.0 and
7.0). Soil with pH 5.0 is 10X more acid than soil with
pH 6.0 and 1000X more acid than pH 7.
Improper Soil pH
• Know the pH requirement of the fruit crop
• Make necessary amendments to soil
• Soil test on regular basis to maintain proper pH
Discussion: If several different fruit crops are grown in
a backyard situation particular attention is going to
have to be paid to amending the soil pH to fit the
requirements of a specific fruit. For example, if
blueberries and blackberries are grown, the
blueberries require a lower pH than the blackberries.
If the pH is not low enough where the blueberries are
growing they will be chlorotic, stunted and produce
low yields. On the other hand if the gardener lowers
Correcting pH problems
• Too acid - add lime
• Too alkaline - add sulfur
Inset pictures: Bags of Hydrated Lime and Sulphur
Discussion: Refer to “Oklahoma Soil Fertility
Handbook” and “Oklahoma Homeowner’s Handbook
for Soil and Nutrient Management” for information on
correcting soil pH problems.
Soil Nutrients
• Macronutrients
• Micronutrients
Discussion: Refer to “Oklahoma Soil Fertility
Handbook” and “Oklahoma Homeowner’s Handbook
for Soil and Nutrient Management” for information on
correcting soil pH problems.
Macronutrients
N, P & K
N = Nitrogen
P = Phosphorus
K = Potassium
Inset pictures: Three photos of nutrient deficiencies
Discussion: The inset photo under N is a peach leaf
expressing symptoms of N deficiency. Foliage is yellowgreen. The older foliage begins to yellow first.
N is one of the primary building blocks for amino acids, protein
and plant protoplasm, it is critical for flower differentiation,
rapid shoot growth, bud vigor and fruit set. N also increases
the size and quality of fruit and acts as a catalyst for other
nutrients.
Micronutrients
• Ca, Mg, S (a.k.a... Secondary nutrients)
• Fe, Mn, Cu, Zn, B, Cl, Mo
Discussion: Stress that micronutrient deficiencies are not
normally a problem. However in some of the acid loving fruit,
occasional Fe or Zn deficiencies may be observed if the soil
pH is too high.
The inset photo is a cluster of grapes expressing Zinc deficiency.
Zinc deficiency can cause reduced set, fruit development and
size. Other micronutrient deficiencies cause symptoms on the
plant and/or fruit that often can provide a clue to which nutrient
is deficient.
Refer to the “Oklahoma Soil Fertility Handbook” for more
information on the micronutrients.
How Much Fertilizer to Apply
• Interpreting OSU soil tests
Inset picture: Contains an example with
recommendations of results of soil test.
Discussion: Explain Buffer Index, and meaning of the
N, P & K values. Explain how to calculate the
amount of fertilizer needed for small areas of less
than 50 ft2 from recommendations for pounds/acre or
pounds/1000 ft2.
Refer OSU Extension Fact Sheet #6232 “Fertilizing
Pecan and Fruit Trees” for more information on
fertilizing fruit trees. Refer to the “Oklahoma Soil
Fertility Handbook”, “Oklahoma Homeowner’s
Understanding Fertilizer Analysis
N
P2O5
K2O
Inset picture: Bag of commercial fertilizer (13-13-13)
Discussion: Explain how to interpret the analysis
information on a bag of commercial fertilizer. Explain
difference between homogenized and blended
fertilizers. Explain importance of determining
analysis of organic fertilizer.
Refer to “Oklahoma Soil Fertility Handbook” and
“Oklahoma Homeowner’s Handbook for Soil and
Nutrient Management” for more information
Selecting Fertilizer to Meet
Recommendations
• 10-20-10
• 13-13-13
• 0-0-60
• 34-0-0
• 18-46-0
• 0-46-0
Inset picture: Bag of commercial fertilizer analysis 12-4-8.
Discussion: It is often difficult to find a blended commercial
fertilizer or an organic fertilizer which meets recommendations
of the OSU soil test. In some cases two different commercial
fertilizers may have to be purchased and blended in order to
satisfy the OSU recommendation. For example, over the
years many home gardens have been heavily fertilized with
Fertilizers
• Organic
• Commercial
Inset pictures: left - Muriate of Potash; mid-lower Bone Meal
Discussion: Proper fertilization is a key component to
successful fruit production. Too little fertilizer leads to
reduced production. Too much fertilizer can lead to
toxicities or in the case of over applying nitrogen,
plants may remain in a vegetative state and produce
very little if any fruit.
In general, February through March (or at least 3 to 4
weeks before spring bud break) is the preferred time
Pests of Fruit
• Weeds
• Diseases
• Insects
Inset pictures: Examples of each of these pests.
Discussion: The following slides present general
information about weeds, diseases, and insects. The
points discussed apply in a broad sense to all fruit.
Weed Control in Fruits
Inset pictures: Three examples of “weed free” fruit
crops; upper left - strawberries; lower left raspberries; right - peaches
Discussion: Fruit crops will be more productive and
more attractive if good weed management practices
are used. You should begin thinking about weed
control before establishing a new planting.
Harmful Effects of Weeds
 Weeds rob water and nutrients
 Weeds block sunlight
 Weeds may contribute to insect and disease
problems
 Weeds complicate care
Discussion: Weeds are harmful to fruit production for
several reasons. Weeds use water and nutrients
needed by the crop plant. Weeds may also prevent
fruit plants from receiving all the sunlight needed for
optimal growth. All these factors can result in less
vigorous plant growth. Weeds may attract or harbor
insects that can be harmful to the crop. Weed
Weed Control Methods
 Avoidance - Plant weed free site
 Prevention - Use practices that do not
introduce or favor weeds
 Removal - Stop weeds that get started
Discussion: Weed control is best accomplished using a
combination of practices to keep weeds from getting
started and creating a problem that is difficult to
control.
How to Avoid Weeds
For new plantings:
– Choose a site free of poison ivy, johnsongrass,
bermudagrass, nutsedge, woody plants, etc.
– Remove troublesome weeds from site before
planting
– Start a year in advance!
Discussion: When establishing a new planting, try to
avoid sites where weeds that will be difficult to control
are present. Collect a sample of the plants growing
where you want to put your fruit planting and take it to
your County Extension Office to determine if there
are any weeds that will be difficult to control.
How to Prevent Weeds
For established plantings:
 Use mulch to prevent weed growth
 Do not mulch with weed-contaminated
materials
 Control weeds while they are small
 Use herbicides
 Consult Your Extension Office
Discussion: Once a planting is established, a good
way to prevent weeds is to keep it mulched. The
types of mulches that should be used depends on the
kind of fruit crop you have. When using organic
materials for mulch, such as straw or wood chips, be
How to Stop Established Weeds
For established plantings:
 Till soil shallowly
 Pull weeds while soil is moist
 Hoe while weeds are small
 Use herbicides
 Consult Your Extension Office
Discussion: If weeds get established, they are most
easily removed while small. If you need to hoe or
cultivate, do so only as deep as is needed to remove
the weeds. Deep tillage can injure roots. Once a
weedy planting has been cleaned up, the application
of mulch will help keep it this way.
Diseases
General Facts
• Abiotic vs. Biotic
– Correct identification of the cause
of the disease is essential to control
Discussion: There are many diseases of fruit. Practically all
fruits are attacked some time during their growing season by a
pathogen that causes either foliar or fruit infections. There are
some diseases, especially on grapes, strawberries and
peaches, that if left uncontrolled will defoliate the plant and
destroy the fruit. These diseases often have to be controlled
with a fungicide in order to produce quality fruit.
Abiotic Diseases
 Disease caused by environmental factors
 Examples:
Nutrient deficiency or excess
High air temperature
Low air temperature
Low light
Excessive light
Soil compaction
Pesticide toxicity
Discussion: There are many factors which can cause abiotic
diseases of vegetables. Nutrient deficiencies, improper light
(low and high), temperature extremes and pesticide
Biotic Diseases
 Diseases caused by a pathogen that can spread from a
diseased plant to a healthy plant
 Pathogens of biotic diseases
Fungi
Bacteria
Virus
Nematodes
Discussion: Fungi cause the vast majority of diseases on
fruit. However, there are also some major diseases caused
by bacteria and viruses. In general it is much harder to
control bacterial and viral diseases because there are few
bactericides and no viricides available for use on fruit.
During the discussion of biotic diseases mention the three
Proper Identification Is Essential
for Successful Disease Control
 1st - Disease vs. Insect
 2nd - Abiotic vs. Biotic
 3rd - ID pathogen
Discussion: It is critical when making decisions on disease
control to be able to distinguish between damage caused by
insects versus that caused by diseases. Once insects have
been eliminated as the problem, the next step is to determine
if the disease is abiotic or biotic. If it is determined that the
problem is a biotic disease, the next step is to determine the
causal organism. Misidentification leads to unneeded and
misapplied insecticides and fungicides. This type of error
leads to increased cost of production, lack of pest control,
and exposes the environment to unwarranted pesticide
Common Biotic Diseases of Fruits
 Foliar diseases
 Wilts and root rots
 Nematodes
Discussion: Fungi cause the vast majority of diseases on
fruits. However, there are some major diseases caused by
bacteria, viruses and nematodes. In general, it is more
difficult to control bacterial, viral and nematode diseases
because there are fewer bactericides and nematicides and
no viricides available for use on backyard fruit.
Biotic diseases require three components for development.
These components are host, pathogen and proper
environment (the disease triangle).
Control of Diseases
 Organic or non-chemical methods
 Chemicals
Discussion: There are two basic alternatives for
obtaining control of diseases. All gardeners should
employ as many organic or non-chemical methods as
possible. However, in situations where foliar
diseases have historically caused problems or when
a foliar disease has become established on a plant or
in a garden, chemical control is the best alternative.
Non-Chemical and Organic
Methods






Exclusion
Sanitation
Resistant varieties
Eradication
Crop rotation
Soil sanitation
 Solarization
 Oven sterilization
 Cultural practices
Discussion: All non-chemical methods have some positive
effect on preventing plant diseases--some more than others.
Cultural Practices
for Disease Control
 Properly space plants
 Properly prune and trellis when practical
 Avoid excessive soil moisture
 Plant on raised beds
 Improve drainage
 Avoid overhead watering
 Fertilize properly
Discussion: Common sense practices generally help to
prevent or reduce the amount of disease that occurs on fruit.
Doing things such as proper spacing and trellising will help
improve air movement which helps to make the environment
less favorable for disease development. Avoid excessive soil
moisture by not overwatering and improving drainage.
Proper Use of Fungicides
in Backyard Fruit Orchard
 Importance of spray schedules
 Commit to a spray schedule or
don’t spray
 Spray at the recommended growth stage
 Selection of a fungicide
 Based on host and pathogen
 Waiting periods
Discussion: Fungicides are protectants which prevent fungal
spore germination and subsequent fungal penetration of plant
tissues. Protectants are applied repeatedly to cover new
plant growth and to replenish the fungicide that has
deteriorated or has been washed off by rain or irrigation.
Fungicides Recommended
for Fruit








benomyl (Benlate)
captan (Captan)
chlorothalonil (Daconil 2787 )
lime sulfur
mancozeb (Dithane M-45 , Dithane F-45)
triademefon (Bayleton)
triforine (Funginex)
Caution: Different fungicides labeled for use on
different fruit crops. Check the label.
Discussion: The most broad spectrum of these
fungicides are chlorothalonil, mancozeb, and maneb.
Factors Concerning Insect Control
• Producing edible crop = primary goal
• Arthropods represent = major problem
• Spraying = most important cultural practice
• 25-50% of total cost of production
• Resistance to pesticides
• Environmental concerns
• Food safety
Discussion: Insect control is a major consideration for fruit
growers. Many insects will damage or lower the quality of fruit
produced while some species, if not controlled, will destroy the
entire plant. Anyone desiring to grow fruit should become
acquainted with the major species and develop a plan for
insect control or they will be disappointed at harvest time.
Arthropod Development and Damaging
Stages
• Life cycles
• Number of generations
• Host plants
• Seasonality
• Overwintering
• Movement
• Susceptibility
Inset picture: Diagram of arthropod life cycle
Discussion: Insect pressure varies depending on the species.
Life cycles and numbers of generations are especially
important from the standpoint of control. A pest with one
generation per year is much more predictable and easier to
manage than pests with multiple generations. Finding a
Spray Calendars
• Written for worst case scenario
• Assumes all pests are present
• Production of fruit under severe infestations
• Followed by most growers
• Could/should be modified
Discussion: In order to harvest an edible fruit crop, spray
schedules have been developed for tree fruits and small
fruits. These schedules are designed to control insects
throughout the growing season. They are followed closely
by many growers. In some instances, fewer applications of
pesticides might suffice, since these schedules are written
for worst case scenarios and assumes all pest species are
present throughout the growing season. These schedules
Beneficials
• Parasitic wasp
• Lady beetle
• Minute pirate bug
Inset pictures: Upper right - parasitic wasp; lower right mature lady beetles; lower middle - lady beetle larva;
lower left - minute pirate bug.
Discussion: Fruit growers should rely on beneficials for
natural control as much as possible. The unnecessary use
of pesticides and the poor choice of insecticides contribute
to the loss of beneficials and the increase of pest problems.
Identification is important and chemicals should be applied
only when absolutely necessary.
Modified Spray Programs
• Extended Interval Spraying
– Petal fall + 3 - 4 cover sprays @ 21 day intervals
• Strip Spraying
– Include outsides and ends
• Reduced Dosage Spraying
– Spray on schedule using lower rates
• Spray As Needed
– Requires scouting / monitoring
Discussion: All the modified spray programs are based on
close observations. If fruit growers adopt a modified spray
program, fruit plantings should be monitored and some
damage from pests may be inevitable resulting in lower
quality fruit. Reduced pesticide usage is the advantage of
following this kind of approach to arthropod control. Some
Oils for Insect Control
• ‘ Dormant Oils ’
– Apply before leaf or bud swell
– Emulsifier allows for mixing with water
– Effective for scale insects
• ‘ Delayed-Dormant ’
– Green tip to 1/2 inch green bud
– Effective for mite eggs
– Called superior or supreme
– 2% Solution ( 2 0z / gal of water )
– Avoid use below 40 degrees
• ‘ Summer Oils ’
– Developed for use in summer
– Never mix with insecticidal soaps
How Much Pesticide
HT
SPREAD
GALS
5-8’
3-6’
0.5-1.0
8-10’
4-8’
1.0-2.0
10-15’
8-15’
4.0-6.0
15-20’
15-25’
8.0-10.0
Discussion: Carefully mix only the amount needed to spray a
fruit planting. In general, sprays are applied to plant surfaces
until all plant parts are thoroughly covered and spray
material starts to drip from the treated surface. Always start
by spraying the top of the tree and work down to the lower
branches.
From the accompanying chart, 1 to 10 gallons of mixed
spray may be needed to provide thorough coverage of fruits,
Tree Fruits
• Pome Fruits - Pears, Apples
• Stone Fruits - Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots,
Cherries, Plums
Inset picture: Apples and nectarines.
Discussion: Growing tree fruit in Oklahoma requires
planning, patience and skill. Proper rootstock and
variety selection as well as pest control are essential.
Site selection is critical to successful establishment of
fruit crops. Measures can be taken to overcome less
than ideal slope, fertility, and air movement, but it
often takes more work and time to change the effects
of shallow soil, soil texture, soil depth and drainage.
Tree Fruits
Ranked on Ease of Growing
1 Pears
Easy
2 Apples
3 Cherries
4 Peaches
5 Nectarines
6 Plums
7 Apricots
Difficult
Discussion: These tree fruits are ranked from easiest to
grow to most difficult. They will be discussed in the order
listed so gardeners can categorize them as either pome
fruits or stone fruits.
Pome
Pome
vs.vs. Stone
Stone
• Pome
• Tolerate clay soils
• Fewer disease and
insect problems
• Less likely to suffer
frost damage
• Stone
• Will not grow on clay
or wet soils
• Several major disease
and insect problems
• Bloom early in spring
susceptible to frost
damage
Discussion: In previous
slide the first two types
of fruit trees, pears and
apples are pome fruits.
A Grower’s Calendar
January
February
Order Trees
Plant Trees,
Protection,
Pruning, Dormant
Oil
April
Spray, Thin Fruit
Trees
March
Frost
Pollination Check
First Sprays
May
Spray, Train Trees
June
Spay, Train
Mulch,
Irrigate
July
September
August
Spray, Harvest
Harvest, Irrigate
Harvest
Planning
• Site selection
• Rootstocks/Varieties
• Number of trees
• Sources of trees
• Planting plan
• Training plan
• Spraying Plan
Discussion: Consider all these points before ordering
the first tree.
Site selection
• Deep, well-drained soils
• No frost pockets
• Stone fruits on best-drained site
• Pome fruits on heavier soil
• Berm up soil if needed
Inset picture: Cherry tree growing as landscape
plant.
Discussion: Air drainage is also critical for stone fruits.
They bloom before pome fruits and are more prone to
early spring frosts and freezes. Plant stone fruits
where they’ll have the best air drainage, avoiding
frost pockets.
Rootstocks & Varieties
• Rootstocks determine tree size and pest
resistance
• Varieties determine fruit characteristics and pest
resistance
• Both should be carefully selected
Discussion: OSU Fact Sheet #6222 “Home Fruit
Planting Guide” discusses rootstocks of individual
fruit trees at length. This will also be covered as
each fruit is discussed.
Most fruit trees are harvested in the nursery as a bareroot tree and held in cold storage before shipping.
Many retail nurseries buy these, pot them up, and sell
Number of Trees
• Two each of apples, pears and plums for cross
pollination
• One each of all others
• Example: One peach tree yields four bushels of
fruit…..how much do we want to have on hand to
process????
Discussion: It is tempting to plant many kinds of each
fruit….but, then we quickly run out of space and time
to care for them. It is far better to plant just a few
trees of favorite varieties and take good care of them,
than to have a large, somewhat neglected planting.
One peach tree will bear up to four bushels of peaches.
Sources of Trees
• A reputable dealer familiar with variety and
rootstock.
• Order in early winter
• Avoid recently potted “container grown” trees
• Plant bare root trees upon arrival
Discussion: Once a tree’s variety and rootstocks are
selected, be sure to take the time to buy from a
reputable nursery. Do not buy fruit trees if the
rootstock is not also listed on the label. This may
mean that they were raised from seed and the
outcome will be unreliable. Likewise, they may be
grafted to a rootstock that is not adapted to our
Planting Plan
• Choose north or east slope
• Peaches on highest ground
• Plant like fruits together for spray and pollination
compatability
• Allow 20 x 20 feet for each tree or train on a trellis
• Mulch and maintain 5 feet diameter weed- and
grass-free zone
Discussion: Unless trees are trained to a trellis, they
need plenty of space….about 20 x 20 feet per tree
(400 square feet). This means careful consideration
should be given to where they will be planted.
Keep fruit type in mind when planting trees in the
Training Plan
• Begin the first year
• All trees: wide crotch angles
• Pome Fruits: central leader
• Stone Fruits: vase shape….keep center open
Inset picture: Wide crotch angles on apple tree. A
spacer is also visible in the center of the picture.
Discussion: “As the twig bends so grows the tree”…the
saying goes. This is never more true than when we
train fruit trees. Small changes in branch angles
when shoots are young and supple can result in
wide, strong crotch angles later in the tree’s life.
Pears, apples, peaches, and nectarines need
Spraying Plan
• Regularly scout for pests
• Follow spray schedule
• Plan to spray from dormant season until within
two weeks of harvest
• First three sprays after bloom are the most
critical
Inset pictures: Top and Middle - Man studying
pesticide information and pesticides; bottom pesticide protective equipment (gloves and
goggles).
Discussion: Know which pests to expect and learn
their habits. Then, regularly check for those pests,
Pollination and Fruit Production
Inset picture: Bee pollinating a flower
Discussion: Pollination of trees is foremost in deciding
how many trees should be planted. Refer to OSU
Fact Sheet No. 6222: “Home Fruit Planting Guide” to
determine specific pollination requirements.
In general, all fruit trees need insects for pollination:
Honeybees, bumblebees, orchard mason bees and
others usually live near our homes and will pollinate
the trees for us. Although all of these trees have
perfect flowers (containing both male and female
parts) the pollen is not always compatible. This is
nature’s way of ensuring that the offspring borne
First and Second Year Care is Critical
• Weed
• Water
• Prune and Train
• Mulch
• Control Insects and Diseases
Inset picture: Second-year peach tree
Discussion: As with a small child, early care is a determinant
of success at maturity. Many home orchards are planted
correctly, yet not maintained. Weeds, particularly bermuda
grass, can effectively suppress the growth of a young fruit
tree preventing it from ever reaching its full bearing potential.
The result can be a small, stunted tree that delays what will
Care of Young Trees
Remember: Control weeds and provide adequate
water the first two to three years.
Inset pictures: Hoes, soaker hose and container of
Roundup
Discussion: Young, non-bearing fruit trees do not need
to be on a regular spray schedule. If leaf-chewing
insects have removed up to 15% of foliage, then try
to I.D. the pest and spray accordingly. Young trees
do need limb training, (see above), as well as
protection of the bark from rodents and deer.
Weeds in Tree Fruits
• Weeds slow young tree establishment
• Control weeds to the drip line
• Use shallow cultivation only
• See OSU Current Report CR-6242
Inset picture: Weed-free zone below peach trees
Discussion: Even though tree crops usually tower
over weedy plants, tree roots are often shallow
and low growing weeds can interfere with tree
growth. This is especially so with newly planted
trees. Uncontrolled weed growth may delay by
several years the time needed for trees to begin
producing. Control weeds as far out as the foliage
Pome Fruits
• Apples and pears easiest to grow
• Choose disease-resistant varieties
• Train to central leader
• Bears after 3 to 5 years
• Fruit stores well
Inset pictures: Apple and pear fruit
Discussion: Apples and pears, like most plants, prefer
deep, medium textured, well drained, fertile, and
easily worked soils. However, these fruit trees will do
reasonably well where the soil has a high water table,
is poorly aerated, or is too heavy textured for most
other deciduous fruits. Sites with good air drainage
Apple Rootstocks and Varieties
• MM-111 semi-dwarf rootstock
• Select varieties for:
– heat and cold tolerance (zones 6&7)
– disease resistance
– flavor
Inset picture: Apple tree: note graft union between
the variety and rootstock
Discussion: The Malling-Merton 111 rootstock is
named for a research station in England. It has
proven, over time, to be ideal for apple trees in
Oklahoma. Many varieties are available already
grafted onto MM-111. Select varieties from the list
Training Apples
• Central leader
• 5 - 7 scaffold limbs
• Encourage fruit spurs
• Prune away crown suckers and water sprouts
Inset pictures: Lower left - 7 year-old apple tree
illustrating central leader training and pruning
system; upper right - fruiting spur.
Discussion: Trees must have strong wide crotch angles
to support a heavy crop load. A main objective of
pruning is to select branches that will have this desired
characteristic.
A well-trained tree, in good shape, should only need light
Growing Good Apples
• Thin dime size fruit to 6 - 8 inches apart
• Spray regularly starting bactericide at 10% bloom
and insecticides at 75% petal fall
• Fertilize only in late winter and late spring
• Harvest with slight upward twist and avoid
bruising
Discussion: Varieties susceptible to fire blight will need
to be spayed with a bactericide beginning at 10%
bloom through petal fall.
Once apples have flowered and ¾ (75%) of blooms
have fallen, begin spraying for pests such as codling
moth. The case of wormy apples actually has its
Pears
• The easiest no-spray fruit
• Asian pears …. crisp, juicy
• European pears …. more flavor, softer texture
• All keep very well
Inset pictures: Pear blossoms and pear fruit
Discussion: Pears are often a problem free fruit. Some
varieties are infected by some of the common pome
fruit diseases and may require application of a
bactericide or fungicide. Insects are a potential
problem but do not attack pears at the same level of
incidence as some other types of fruit.
Pears can be classified into two broad groups - the
Pear Rootstocks and Varieties
• Rootstock: ‘Old Home’ x ‘Farmingdale’ a.k.a.:
(OHXF)
• All varieties must resist fire blight disease to
thrive here
• Select also for freedom from grit cells for softer
texture
Discussion: As with apples, pay attention to rootstock
and variety selection to insure success with pears.
Training Pears
• Begin at planting
• Wide crotch angles
• Central leader
• Avoid N fertilizer
• Never top them
Inset picture: Young pear tree trained and pruned to
central leader system
Discussion: Pears naturally grow very upright until they
bear fruit. If we top them to control height they’ll be
stimulated to send up even more vigorous upright limbs.
From the beginning, allow one central leader and
spread remaining limbs at 45 degree angles from the
Growing Good Pears
•
•
•
•
•
•
Thin fruit to 6 - 8 inches apart
Do not over apply N
Spraying not as critical
Protect ripening fruit from wasps and bees
Harvest before fully ripe to store
Discussion: As with apple trees, pears begin
bearing in about four years. They likewise need pest
protection and attention to thinning shortly after
flowering ends in spring. However, many gardeners
have abundant pear crops and never spray. If apples
are nearby, pests such as codling moth will select
them for egg laying site over harder, tougher-
Diseases of Apple and Pear
• Diseases in common = Fire blight, Scab*, Sooty
mold and Fly speck
 = Scab of apple caused by Venturia
inaequalis: Scab of pear caused by V. pirina
Discussion: In Oklahoma apples are attacked by
more diseases than pear. However, both are
susceptible to diseases that can result in serious
damage to the either the tree or the fruit. The
diseases listed on this slide are ones that attack
both apple and pear. Both apple and pear have a
disease named scab, but it is not caused by the
same pathogen.
Fire Blight
Erwinia amylovora
Apple and Pear
• Bacterial disease
– Initial infections occur during bloom when rain or hail
occur
• Symptoms:
– Infected tissues wilt, turn brown to dark brown
– Infected terminals wilt from the tip, often develop a crook
at the growing point
Inset picture: Apple branch expressing typical
symptoms of fire blight.
Discussion: Fire blight, caused by the bacterium Erwinia
amylovora, is the major disease problem faced by pear
growers. It is also a problem on susceptible apple
varieties. Fire blight causes loss of blossoms and fruit,
but its most serious effect is reduced future production
Fire Blight
Erwinia amylovora
Apple and Pear
– Infections spread rapidly
– Significant damage in one growing season
– Control:
• Resistant varieties
– Golden delicious
– Jono
– McLemore
• Sanitation
• Spray during bloom
– antibiotic or copper
Inset picture: Containers of the bactericide
streptomycin sulfate.
Cedar-apple Rust
Cedar
Gymnosporangium juniperi-virginianae
• Cedar-apple rust gall
 Fall of 2nd year on cedar
 Somewhat kidney shaped
 Chocolate brown with small circular
depressions
Inset pictures: Top - cedar-apple rust gall on cedar
tree prior to development of the telial horns.
Bottom - gall on cedar in early spring with
developing telial horns
Discussion: Cedars growing in close proximity to apple
trees susceptible to cedar-apple rust are going to
greatly increase the amount of infection on both the
Cedar-apple Rust
Apple
Gymnosporangium juniperi-virginianae
• Foliar symptoms
 Initially appear as small greenish-yellow spots
 Enlarge becoming orange-yellow surrounded
by red margin
Inset picture: Top and bottom side of apple leaves
infected with cedar-apple rust
Discussion: The bright colors of the lesions produced
by this disease make it easy to identify. Small, pale
yellow spots develop on the upper leaf surface
shortly after bloom. These spots gradually enlarge
and turn orange.
Cedar-apple Rust
Apple
Gymnosporangium juniperi-virginianae
• Control
– Resistant Varieties:
• Dayton
• Delicious
• Williams’s Pride
– Fungicide applications
• Begin at bloom and continue on 7-day
schedule until galls on cedars dry up
Inset picture: Apple fruit with cedar-apple rust
lesion
Discussion: Fruit infection is most common near the
Fly speck and Sooty mold
Mycrothyriella rubi and Gloeodes pomigena
Apple and Pear
• Both are superficial
• Minimal damage
– lower quality
– lower market value
• Fly speck = sharply defined, shiny black dots in
groups of a few to 100+
• Sooty mold = sooty or cloudy blotches that are
brown to olive green with indefinite outlines
Inset picture: Apple infected with both fly speck and
sooty mold. The fly speck appears as small dark
dots in the center area of the apple, and the sooty
mold is visible as a solid dark, moldy area on the
Scab
Venturia inaequalis and V. pirina
Apple and Pear
• Symptoms similar on apple and pear
• Occurs on leaves and fruit
• Leaves develop velvety brown to olive spots, turn
black with age, distorted
• Fruit infections appear similar to leaf infections,
with age - turn brown and corky
Inset picture: Top - scab lesions on an apple leaf;
bottom - scab lesions on apple fruit.
Discussion: Apple scab occurs in most areas where
apples are grown and can be a problem on apples
grown in Oklahoma. It is less severe in dryer
climates. Fortunately, successful control procedures
Black Rot
Apple
Physalospora obtusa
• Symptoms on fruit:
 Mature lesion exhibits a series of concentric
rings alternating from black to brown.
 Rotted area remains firm and is not sunken
Inset picture: Apple fruit infected with black rot
Discussion: There are several different fruit rots that
occur on apples, including black rot, white rot, and
bitter rot. All these rots are caused by different fungi
and produce different symptoms on the apple fruit.
Black rot is probably the most common but the other
rots are often observed on backyard fruit trees.
Backyard growers can expect to see fruit rots if they
Black Rot
Apple
Physalospora obtusa
• Mature black rot canker
Typically reddish brown and slightly sunken
Can become several feet in length
Weakened branches break under heavy crop
load
Inset picture: Mature black rot canker on an apple
branch
Discussion: Black rot also infects branches and limbs.
It causes cankers on branches weakened by heavy
shading, sun scald, or winter injury. Pruning cuts and
old fire blight cankers are major point of entry. The
limb cankers are most often found on older trees;
Bitter Rot
Apple
Glomerella cingulata
• Symptoms vary from small, slightly sunken areas
to large, dark brown areas with yellow margin
• Internally, lesions extend in a cone shape towards
the core
• Control:
– Same fungicides and same spray schedule as
Black rot
Inset picture: Apple fruit infected with bitter rot
Discussion: This disease is occasionally severe on
apple trees where temperatures are high enough to
favor disease development. This is a disease of the
fruit and does not infect woody parts of the tree.
Powdery Mildew
Podosphaera leucotrica
Apple
• On leaves: whitish, felt-like patches of moldy
growth
• Infected leaves: narrower than normal, become
stiff and brittle
• Fruit: russeted and small (Jonathan most
susceptible)
Inset pictures: Left - Close-up of powdery mildew
symptoms on apple leaf; middle - leaves curled
by powdery mildew infection; right - fruit russeted
by powdery mildew
Discussion: Powdery mildew is caused by a fungus
and is often an important disease on backyard apple
trees. Losses result from (1) death of vegetative
shoots; (2) death of flower buds resulting in yield
Control of Apple Diseases
• Spray schedule
• Green tip to 1/2 inch green leaf - Cedar-apple rust *,
Scab, Powdery mildew, Bitter rot, Black rot
• Pre-bloom - Cedar-apple rust , Scab, Powdery mildew,
Bitter rot, Black rot
• Bloom - Scab, Fire blight *
• Petal fall - Scab, Powdery mildew, Bitter rot, Black rot
• Early cover - Scab, Powdery mildew, Bitter rot, Black
rot
• Summer cover - Scab, Powdery mildew, Bitter rot,
Black rot
• Most varieties recommended for Oklahoma are
susceptible fire blight
Apple and Pear Insects
• Codling moth
– Up to 3 gen/yr
– Larvae
– Adult
– Damage
– Petal fall
– Cover sprays
– 10 Day intervals
Inset pictures: Top left - codling moth larva; top right - adult
codling moth; lower left - fruit showing codling moth
damage
Discussion: Codling moths attack apples and pears and some
Apple and Pear Insects
• Plum curculio
– Adult
– Larva
• Seldom form in fruit
– Egg
– Scars
– Petal fall
– Cover sprays
– Pick up fallen fruit
Inset picture: Top left - adult plum curculio; top right - plum
curculio larva; middle typical curculio feeding scar on
fruit; lower left - curculio damage on young apple fruit;
lower right - curculio damage and signs on fruit nearing
Apple and Pear Insects
• Cankerworms
– Larva
– Injury
– Prebloom
– Superior summer spray oil
Insect pictures: Upper right corner- canker worm adult
moth; upper left - canker worm egg mass; mid-right canker worm larva; lower left - canker worm damage on
young apple
Discussion: Cankerworms are unique in the fact that males are
gray moths with faint black and white markings while the
females are wingless. Male moths have a wingspan of 1 to
1 inches. Larvae are sometimes referred to as “measuring
Apple and Pear Insects
• Aphids
– Adults and nymphs
– Dwarfing and honeydew
– Smut
– Dormant spray
– Prebloom with superior summer spray oil
– Problem increases with cover sprays
Inset pictures: Top left - close-up of aphids; middle - honey
dew on leaves and small apple fruit; bottom - sooty mold
or smut development on apple fruit as result of honey dew
Discussion: Aphid infestations can become serious with high
populations. These tiny insects, often called plant lice, are
generally found on the lower sides of leaves. Many species of
Apple and Pear Insects
• Mites
– Adults and eggs
– Overwintering
– Eggs
– Dormant spray
– Prebloom with superior summer spray oil
– Compounded by hot dry weather
Inset pictures: Top - close-up of adult red spider mites;
middle - adult mites with webbing; bottom - mite eggs.
Discussion: This minute pest is a globular shaped eight legged
arthropod in the adult stage and is only about 1/64 inch long. It
causes damage by inserting its mouthparts and removing cell
contents including chlorophyll. This feeding results in a
Apple and Pear Insects
• Scale
– Short mobile period
– Feeds on sap
• Males and crawlers
– Infested twig
• Most damage
• May kill young tree
– Infested fruit
– Dormant spray
Inset pictures: Top - scale on apple twig; bottom - scale on
apple fruit
Discussion: Scale insects are especially damaging to young
trees. They may actually kill larger trees over time. Scale
Apple and Pear Insects
• Leafrollers
– Adult
– Damage
– Larval stage
– Feed on leaves and fruit
– Petal fall
– Cover sprays
Inset pictures: Top - adult leafroller moth; middle - leafroller
damage on apple fruit; bottom - larva of leafroller and
damaged foliage.
Discussion: Leafrollers are the immature stages of moths that
are  to 1 inch in length with wingspans of approximately 
to 1 inch depending upon species. Rather than describe the
Stone Fruits
• Apricots
• Cherries
• Nectarines
• Peaches
• Plums
Inset picture: Composite of apricots, cherries,
nectarines, peaches and plum
Discussion: Nothing tastes better than fresh, treeripened peaches. The stone fruit group of trees
begins to bear about two years earlier than pome
fruits. The trees are also easier to prune and
maintain than some other types of fruit.
Stone Fruits
• Shorter lived, more
pests, frost risk
• Bears in 3 years
• Easy to train
• Fruit more perishable
Inset picture : Peach tree
in bloom
Discussion: In general,
stone fruits are more
difficult to grow and
produce than pome
fruits. They are more
Site Selection - Stone Fruits
 Peach and nectarine - do not tolerate wet soil conditions
– Avoid site where water stands more than 1 week after
heavy rains
– Avoid soils with high water tables
 Dig holes 4 feet deep - Fill with water
If stands 24 hours = bad site
 Sandy soils - support peach trees
– May require supplemental irrigation
Discussion: Close attention has to be paid to selecting sites for
stone fruits. Peaches and nectarines will not tolerate wet soils
so planting sites with clay type soils are virtually eliminated. An
alternative is to berm soil up about eight inches high by three
to four feet across and grow trees on a raised bed.
Peach and Nectarine Rootstocks
• ‘Halford’ or ‘Lovell’ rootstocks survive in hot,
humid Oklahoma soils
• Discussion: These time tested root stocks ensure a
much longer life for peaches growing in Oklahoma.
Peach and Nectarine Varieties
•
•
•
•
Resistance to bacterial spot
Winter hardy and late blooming
Cling vs. Freestone
White flesh vs. Yellow flesh
• Span the season…..flowering time does not
coincide with date of ripening.
• Choose early, mid- & late-season types.
Discussion: Early blooming does not mean early fruit
ripening. Flowering time does not coincide with date
of ripening. Choose early, mid and late ripening
varieties. Also choose varieties that bloom late to
Training Peaches and Nectarines
• At planting…..cut 18” to 30” high
• Remove branches lower than 12 inches
• Train to open-center “vase” shape
• Select only 3 to 4 main scaffold limbs
• Prune heavily yearly
Inset picture: Second year unpruned peach tree
• Discussion: Use the picture in the slide to point out
three to four scaffold limbs and point out the center
would be cut out after the 2nd year of growth. Peach
trees are pruned heavily beginning very early in the
life of the peach tree. This pruning is required in
order to train the tree to the “open-center” system
Pruning of Peaches and Nectarines
 Remove up to 1/3 of wood/year
 Remove damaged limbs
 Remove suckers
 Remove water sprouts
 Maintain open center pruning system
Inset picture: Upper right - 6 year old peach tree trained
and pruned to the open-center system. Note the 3 to 5
main scaffold branches on each tree. Lower left - water
sprouts that have to be pruned out whenever they occur.
Discussion: Peaches and nectarines have a very different
growth habit from the pome fruits. Flower buds for the next
year are formed on new wood. The tree must continue
producing new, young shoots in order for flower buds to
Growing Peaches and Nectarines
•
•
•
•
Adhere to spray schedule
Stay ahead of peach tree borer
Apply nitrogen twice in spring and summer
Thin fruit to one every 8 inches on limb before pit
hardening
• Provide plenty of water
Discussion: Trees need constant care to survive here.
Frost and freeze protection is most critical as buds
open in spring. At full bloom, and thereafter, buds are
at high risk for freeze damage. To help prevent
freeze damage, moisten soil under trees thoroughly
the night of the freeze. This helps release heat from
Cherries
• Sweet Cherries
– ‘Bing’ types….grow well
– Need 2nd variety for pollination
– Choose crack-resistant varieties
• Sour Cherries
• pie cherries... easy to grow, dwarf varieties
available
• Both types have fewer pests
Discussion: Birds are the number one problem with
cherries. Grow dwarf types that are easy to cover
with netting. Yellow-fruited varieties are less
Growing Good Cherries
• Select for disease and crack resistance
• Select dwarf types so bird netting can be applied
• Be diligent about peach tree borer
• Train to vase shape…..little other pruning needed
Discussion: Beyond a basic open-centered, vase
shaped limb structure, cherries require little in the
way of pruning. Annually remove the three D’s of
pruning: dead, damaged or diseased wood and
those limbs that are crossing and rubbing against
another. Cherries have been grown successfully in
the backyard with no sprays other than protection
from peach tree borer and birds. They are the
Plums
• European or Prune-type: good for drying,
canning and preserves
• Japanese or Dessert-type: juicier, best for fresh
eating
Inset pictures: Left - European or Prune-type
plums; right - Japanese or dessert-type plums.
Discussion: Plums are more challenging to grow due
to heavy insect pressure right after bloom. Oriental
fruit moth and plum curculio are severe as well as
several foliar feeding caterpillars and twig diseases.
Also, they bloom early enough that spring frosts can
kill the blossoms.
Plum Varieties and Pollination
• Rootstocks:
– Not as critical
• Select Varieties:
– Disease resistant
– Winter hardy
• Pollination:
– European will not cross pollinate Japanese
– Select two of both types to insure fruit set
Discussion: To insure good pollination plant at least
two trees of the type of plum that is to grown. Plums
can be short-lived if spray schedules aren’t followed,
Plum Training and Care
• Train to vase shape
• Avoid knicking limbs when pruning….makes
entry point for disease
• Thin fruit to one every 3 to 4 inches
• Avoid over-watering near harvest
• Be diligent about peach tree borer
Discussion: Points listed on slide are self explanatory.
Apricots
• Choose cold hardy, late bloomers
• Select dwarf types
– Grow in container = mobile tree = frost
protection
• Thin fruit to one every 3 to 4 inches
• Protect from birds
• Be diligent about peach tree borer
Inset picture: Apricot fruit
Discussion: One of, if not, the most challenging stone
fruit to produce in Oklahoma . However, the rewards
of fine, ripe apricots are worth the effort.
Diseases of Stone Fruits
• Apricots
• Cherries
• Nectarines
• Peaches
• Plums
Discussion: Of the fruit crops grown in Oklahoma, stone fruits
have the most disease problems. There are many diseases of
stone fruits and only a few are included in this program. In
order to be successful at growing and producing stone fruits a
homeowner must be dedicated to the efforts to prevent
diseases as well as insects.
Peach Leaf Curl
Taphrina deformans
Peach and Nectarine
• Leaves severely deformed
• Color varies from light green to purple
• Infection requires free moisture, active leaf buds,
and temperature between 50° and 70° F
• Control requires dormant season fungicide
application
Inset pictures: Top - cluster of peach leaves
infected with peach leaf curl and expressing
typical symptoms of the disease; bottom - closeup of a peach leaf expressing the purpling and
puckering of tissues infected with the peach leaf
curl pathogen.
Bacterial Spot
Xanthomonas campestris pv. pruni
Peach, Nectarine, Apricot, Plum
• Infects leaves, fruit and young twigs
• Foliar lesions angular brown to black and fall out
= shot hole
• Causes defoliation
• Fruit lesions occur randomly over the fruit,
circular to elongate and rough
Inset pictures: Upper left - close-up of peach leaf
expressing shot hole symptom of bacterial spot;
upper right - peach leaf expressing foliar lesions
prior to tissue falling out; bottom - peach fruit
with bacterial spot lesion.
Discussion: Bacterial spot is a serious and frustrating
Scab
Xanthomonas campestris pv. pruni
Peach, Apricot and Nectarine
• Most important as fruit infection
• Start as small greenish spots, enlarge to 1/4 inch
diameter
• Develop dusty green to black appearance
• Lesions typically clustered near the stem end of
fruit
• Easily confused with Bacterial spot
Inset pictures: Upper and lower pictures both
showing fruit with scab lesions. Note how the
lesions are clustered near the stem end of the
fruit.
Discussion: Scab is a common disease on peaches
Brown Rot
Monilinia fructicola
Peach, Nectarine, Apricot, Cherry, Plum
•
•
•
•
Infects immature or mature fruit
Soft dry rot
Rapidly spreading on fruit (48 hrs)
Infected fruit sporulate profusely, shrivel =
mummies
Inset pictures: Left - brown rot on cherry fruit;
middle - brown rot on nectarine; right - brown rot
mummy on peach tree.
Discussion: Brown rot is a common and devastating
disease of peach, nectarine, apricot, plum and cherry.
It reduces yields by rotting the fruit both on the tree
and after harvest. In seasons when environmental
Black Knot
Dibotryon morbosum
Plum and Cherries
• Elongated, corky swellings or knots on limbs
• New knots greenish and soft, become hard and black
• Causes dieback of infected limbs and stunting of growth
above the knots
• Plant black knot resistant cultivars
• Prune out infections
• Apply fungicides
Inset pictures: Upper left - young black knot galls on plum;
lower right - mature black knot galls on plum.
Discussion: Black knot is a serious and widespread disease
of plums and cherries. It often becomes a serious problem
Control of Stone Fruit Diseases
 Plant peach varieties tolerant to bacterial spot (Redskin,
Redhaven, Candor, Dixired, Sunhaven)
 Apply fungicides:
– Dormant season - Peach leaf curl, Bacterial spot,
Black knot
– Shuck split - Brown rot, Scab, Black knot
– Cover sprays - Brown rot, Scab, Black knot
• Apply cover sprays at 10- to 14-day intervals
Discussion: Diseases can make producing quality fruit from
stone fruit crops difficult. One of the first steps is to try and
select a variety that is resistant to bacterial spot. This
disease is difficult to control with chemicals and can lead to
frustration if a bacterial susceptible variety is grown.
Insects of Stone Fruits
• Oriental fruit moth
– 3 Gen/yr
– Adult and pupa
– Larvae
– Damaged shoot
– Infested peaches
– Petal fall
– Shuck split
– Cover sprays
Inset pictures: Top left - oriental fruit moth adult and pupa;
upper right - oriental fruit moth larva; middle - oriental
Insects of Stone Fruits
• Plum curculio
– Shuck injury
– Larvae develop well
– Adult
– Petal fall
– Shuck split
– First and second cover sprays
– “Wormy peaches”
Inset pictures: Top - curculio injury to a peach shuck (base
of flower); middle - adult plum curculio; bottom - plum
curculio larva inside peach fruit.
Discussion: Plum curculio attack the fruit soon after it forms.
They eat holes through the skin and feed on the pulp, usually
Insects of Stone Fruits
• Catfacing insects
– Plantbugs
– Stinkbugs
– Damage
– Pre-bloom
– Petal fall
– Shuck-split
– Cover sprays
Inset pictures; Top - green stinkbug nymph; middle - adult
green stinkbug; bottom - catface damage on peach.
Discussion: Plant bugs and green stink bugs damage stone
fruits by injuring blossoms, causing fruit drop, catfacing injury
and gummosis. Plant bugs typically attack early, causing
Insects of Stone Fruits
• Scale
– Infested limb
– Crawlers
– Dormant spray
– Removes sap
– Reduces vigor
– Loss of trees
Inset pictures: Top - scale infested limb; middle left and
right - close-up of crawler stage; bottom - close-up on
mature scale.
Discussion: Stone fruits are subject to attack from scale
insects. Similar damage occurs on stone fruits as discussed
for apple and pears. The scale feed on sap and reduce the
Insects of Stone Fruits
• Lesser peach tree borer
– Adult
– Infested limb
– Damage scaffold limbs and branches
– Gum mixed with wood borings or sawdust-like frass
– Prebloom and cover sprays
Inset pictures: Top - adult lesser peach tree borer moth;
bottom - lesser peach tree borer infested limb showing
gumosis and sawdust associated with the borer
infestation.
Discussion: Lesser peach tree borers differ from the peach tree
borer in that the moths emerge over a long time during the
summer months. Also, the larvae are not confined to the
Insects of Stone Fruits
• Peach tree borer
– Most serious threat
– Adult female
– Larval instars
– Borer in trunk
– Trunk treatment with recommended insecticides
– Pdb crystals - October
Inset pictures: Top - adult peach tree borer moth; middle base of peach tree with gumosis and discoloration
associated with peach tree borer infestation; bottom peach tree borer larva.
Discussion: More stone fruit trees are killed by peach tree
Insects of Stone Fruits
• Beetles
– Green June beetles
– Japanese beetles
– Cover
– Preharvest
– Foliage feeders
– Ripe fruit
Inset pictures: Top - green June beetle; bottom Japanese beetle
Discussion: Beetles can defoliate trees and be
especially troublesome when fruit ripens.
How to Harvest and Store Stone Fruits
• Cherries
• Peaches and Nectarines
• Plum
• Apricots
Inset slides: Top - plums; middle - cherries; bottom peaches
Discussion: No stone fruits truly ripen once removed
from the tree. They may become softer, and can
certainly rot, but they don’t continue ripening as do
apples or pears. Leave fruit on the tree just as long
as possible. Handle gently by removing from tree
with a slight upward twist. Cool down
Pest Free Fruit Trees
• Oriental Persimmon
• Jujube
• Paw Paw
• Crab Apples (disease resistant var.)
• Figs
• Mulberry
Discussion: There are some nontraditional fruit trees
that will grow and produce well in Oklahoma that are
free of serious disease and insect pests. Several of
these trees also make nice additions to the
landscape, i.e. Oriental persimmon, jujube, crab
apples and figs. Most, if not all, produce fruit that are
SMALL FRUITS
Inset picture: Mosaic of fruit of blackberry,
blueberry, grapes, raspberry, and strawberry.
Grapes
Inset picture: Cluster of Oklahoma grown grapes (variety
unknown).
Discussion: Grapes are popular for “Backyard” plantings
because they can be used in many ways (jelly, wine, fresh
table fruit). They can enhance the aesthetics of the landscape
and they are adapted thoughout Oklahoma.
However, grapes do have some major problems with insects and
diseases. In order to have success growing grapes, the proper
varieties and types need to be selected for the site in which the
grapes will be grown.
Grapes do not tolerate “wet feet”. Therefore the site selected for
growing grapes must be well drained.
Grapes will grow and produce on a wide variety of soil types but
Grape Types
• American bunch
• Muscadine
Discussion: American bunch grapes were derived
primarily from wild grapes native to North America
Muscadine are also native to North America, specifically
the Southeastern United States. Southeastern
Oklahoma is well adapted for producing Muscadine
grapes. They do not produce grapes in tight clusters
like bunch grapes.
American Bunch Grape
• Derived from native grape species + some mixture of
European species
• Popular home grown fruit
• Utilized as fresh fruit, wine, juice, jams and jellies
• Some problems with disease and insects
Inset picture: Cluster of Oklahoma grown American bunch
grape (variety unknown).
Discussion: American bunch grapes are native to the United
States and are a popular plant for backyard fruit plantings.
Not only can a gardener be rewarded with a tasty and useful
fruit, but the grape vine itself can be an addition to the
landscape.
Bunch grapes can be used to make any of the products
BUNCH GRAPE VARIETIES
• Produce about 8 lbs. per vine
• Table, wine, juice, or jelly
• Red, white, or blue
• Seed or seedless
• Harvest date
Inset picture: Cluster of Oklahoma grown American bunch
grapes (variety unknown).
Discussion: Bunch grapes have the potential to grow and
produce well in Oklahoma. The “Bunch grape” is diverse in
its uses, color and seed production. It can add a great deal
to a “Backyard Fruit Orchard” and be rewarding to a gardener
who enjoys diversification.
Refer to OSU Extension Fact Sheets #6222 “Home Fruit
Varieties of American-bunch
•
•
•
•
Mars**
Reliance***
Saturn*
Venus*
Early
Early
Middle
Very Early
Blue
Red
Red
Blue
Table
Table
Table
Table
 Concord - NOT RECOMMENDED FOR OKLAHOMA
Winter Hardiness: * = Fair; ** = Medium; *** = Good
Discussion: There are many varieties of bunch grapes that will
grow and produce well in Oklahoma. However, Concord is
not one of them. Oklahoma heat, especially the warm night
temperatures, causes Concord to ripen unevenly, therefore it
is not a recommend variety.
Muscadine Grape
• Native to S.E. USA
• Adapted to moderate climate (10° F)
• Insect and disease tolerant
• Popular for wine, pies and jellies
• Average vine = 35 lbs. of grapes
Inset picture: Muscadine grape foliage and fruit.
Discussion: Muscadines grow well where
temperatures seldom fall below 10° F. Considerable
injury generally occurs where temperatures fall below
0° F. Muscadines have a high degree of tolerance
and/or immunity to pests and diseases that makes
the production of bunch grapes difficult. They
Muscadine Grapes
Improved Varieties
• Carlos - bronze
• Dixie Ree - red
• Doreen - bronze
• Magnolia - bronze
• Nesbitt - black
• Noble - black
• Regale - black
• Triumph - bronze
Scuppernong and Thomas - old standards, not as
good as improved varieties
Discussion: Muscadines are not well adapted to
Planting
•
•
•
•
February 1 to March 20
Purchase 1 year-old rooted vines
Plant vines 6 to 10 feet apart
Plant with top of root ball even with surrounding
soil
• Cut tops back, leaving only 2 or 3 buds
Discussion: The ideal time to plant grapes, American
bunch or Muscadine, is February 1 through March
20, however in the southeast one third of the state
they can be planted in the fall from October to midNovember.
Plants should not be set during dry windy conditions or
Pruning Grapes
• February to early March
Discussion: Grapes are unusual among the fruits in
that they thrive on what is considered severe pruning.
It has been demonstrated that under good growth
conditions maximum yields are obtained when about
90% of the previous season’s growth is removed
during dormant pruning.
Keep in mind that grapes produce fruit on the current
season’s growth that originates from one-year-old
spurs.
Training and Pruning Young Grapes
• 1st year:
 Allow cane to develop
 Keep tied to stake or trellis wire
 Tip at top wire (4 to 5 ft)
 Prune all lateral branches
Inset pictures: Left - line drawing illustrating a newly
planted grape cane; right - line drawing showing early
growth of newly planted grape.
Discussion: During the first season the planted shoot (cane) is
allowed to develop. It should be tied, with string, to a stake
or trellis wire. Tip the cane to the desired height, usually 5 to
6 feet.
During the first winter after planting, prune all lateral branches
Training and Pruning Young Grapes
• 2nd year
 Allow free growth of shoots from trunk and spurs
 Remove suckers from below bottom wire of trellis
 Remove flower cluster before bloom
 Winter - Begin training to the Kniffin system
• Select four canes and cut to five to eight buds
Inset pictures: Left - line drawing illustrating second year
growth of grape vine; right - line drawing illustrating how
the grape should appear after pruning off the second
year growth, which would occur in late winter prior to
beginning of third year.
Pruned Grape Vine
• Older vines - Every year, replace last season’s arms with
canes that grew from last season’s renewal spurs and
leave new renewal spurs
Inset pictures: Left - line drawing illustrating a properly
pruned older grape vine; right - photo of actual grape vine
pruned as illustrated in line drawing.
Discussion: The object of pruning is to adjust the amount of fruit
that will be set by the plant to that amount that may be matured
by the plant. As a rule, 40 to 60 buds will be sufficient for the
production of a full crop on any grape vine.
At the beginning of each year, the mature grape vine should look
like it did at the beginning of the previous season. Every year
the vine is pruned back to four arms or canes containing 8 to
Blueberry and Grape Weed Control
• Destroy perennials before planting
• Mulch with organic materials or woven plastic
mulch
• Keep alleys mowed short
• Hoe or pull weeds near plants
• Use shallow tillage
Inset picture: Blueberry and grape planting with
weed control obtained through mulching and
hoeing.
Discussion: Clean cultivation and hoeing or
mulches may be used to control weeds in
blueberries and grapes. Cultivation should be
Diseases of Grapes
Introductory slide
Discussion: There are several important diseases of
Oklahoma grapes. Most of the diseases are caused
by fungi, and if left uncontrolled often destroy the fruit
before it can be harvested. In most situations, grape
growers are going to have to commit to applying
several fungicide sprays to get adequate control.
Black Rot
Guignardia bidwellii
Grape
• Foliar symptom
Lesions with pycnidia (fungal fruiting
structures)
Pycnidia release spores (conidia) - infect
newly-formed tissues throughout growing
season
Inset picture: Close-up of a Black rot lesion on a
grape leaf. Note the pycnidia occurring in a ring
near the outer edge of the lesion.
Discussion: Black rot is the most destructive disease of
grape and is common on grapes grown in Oklahoma.
The first symptoms of the disease occurs on new
Black Rot
Guignardia bidwellii
Grape
• Foliar symptoms
 Appear in late spring
Early - Small reddish spots
Later - Spots turn brown with black margins
• Fruit symptoms:
 Appear after fruit half grown
Small whitish areas on green fruit
Inset picture: Grape leaves and fruit expressing symptoms
typical of black rot infection.
Discussion: Symptoms of black rot infections usually do not
appear on the fruit until the fruit is about half grown. The
spots first appear as small, whitish areas on green fruit. The
white spots develop a brown ring that enlarges rapidly. The
Powdery Mildew
Uncinula necator
Grape
•
•
•
•
Attacks all above-ground parts
Early appears as whitish to grayish patches on leaves
Mild temps and high RH favor development
Control: Avoid excessive N
Apply fungicides
Inset pictures: Left - powdery mildew appearing as a
whitish - gray growth on grape leaves; right - powdery
mildew infection appearing as a grayish growth on a
cluster of grapes.
Discussion: Powdery mildew can attack all above-ground parts
of the grape plant. It causes losses by adversely affecting
the physiological function of the leaf, resulting in smaller fruit.
It also directly infects the fruit resulting in lower quality and
Grape Disease Control
• Sanitation
• Spray schedule
 Dormant season: February - March 10 (Black rot)
 First cover: new shoots = 2 leaves (Black rot)
 Second cover: Before bloom- shoot 12 to 18 inches
(Black rot and Powdery mildew)
 Third cover: 10 days after petal fall (Black rot and
Powdery mildew)
 Fourth cover: 2 weeks after third cover (Black rot and
Powdery mildew)
Inset picture: A grape in bloom.
Discussion: In most situations, when grapes become infected
with black rot and/or powdery mildew, they have to be sprayed
Grape Insect Pests
• Flea beetles
– Early season pest
– Two leaf stage
– Prior to bloom
– Adults and larvae damage plants
– Destroy future canes
– 1 gen/yr
Inset picture: Adult flea beetle
Discussion: Early in the season flea beetles attack a wide
range of plants including grapes. Watch for this pest and
its damage. If swollen buds have holes or are eaten, look
for tiny, dark, metallic beetles and spray if necessary. Flea
beetles destroy the capacity of a bud to develop a primary
Grape Insect Pests
• Grape berry moth
– Attacks leaves
– Attacks fruit
– Tangled webs
– After petal fall
– 2 weeks later
– Later if present
– Clean up and burn leaf debris
– Petal fall and 7-10 days later
Inset pictures: Top - Grape berry moth damage on fruit
(note the webbing); bottom left - adult grape berry moth;
bottom right - grape berry moth larva
Grape Insect Pests
• Leafhoppers
– Adult and nymphs
– Treat upon emergence
– Usually late season pest
– Multiple generations
Inset picture: Leafhopper adult (lower right corner) and
nymphs
Discussion: Leafhoppers are yellowish-green to pale green in
color in both the adult and nymphal stage. The winged adult
is about 1/8 inch long (slightly larger than the wingless
nymph). Adults will hop and fly while nymphs will run
sideways when disturbed. Damage shows up as cupped
yellow leaves. These insects have sucking mouthparts and
may be involved in disease transmission. Some species of
Grape Insect Pests
• Leafrollers
– Treat when first brood emerges from rolled leaves
– Feed on buds, fruit, and leaves
– Pinch rolled leaves
– Remove mummies
Inset picture: Leafroller larva with webbing used to roll leaf
Discussion: Moths appear about late April and often lay eggs
on grape clusters. The larvae can eat shallow holes in the
berries that they web together. Multiple generations occur
and the latter generations are the most damaging. However,
serious infestations are not common. The red-banded is one
of the more common leafrollers attacking grapes. The larva
of the red-banded leafroller is 5/8 inch long when mature and
Grape Insect Pests
• Beetles
– Green June beetles
– Japanese beetles
– Late season
• July and August
– 1 gen/yr
– Migrate
Inset pictures: Top - Adult Japanese beetle; bottom - grape
leaf damaged by beetle feeding activity
Discussion: Beetles can be destructive to grapes. Japanese
beetles have just recently become a problem in Oklahoma.
However, they have been a serious pest in many other areas
for an extended time. Adults emerge in June and July and
Grape Harvest
• Fruit production - occurs second or third year of growth
• Table grapes - sweet, plump, even in color
• Wine grapes - slightly tart, plump, slightly soft, even in
color
Discussion: Varieties vary in their color development at
ripeness. Maturing grape berries enlarge, soften, and
increase in sugar content.
Harvest fruit during cooler part of the day by cutting the clusters
from the vine with pruners or hand shears. Muscadine
grapes are picked individually like other berries.
Refrigerate the grapes soon after harvest. They will usually
remain in good condition for three to 10 days.
Refer to OSU Fact Sheet #6246 “Growing Grapes in the Home
Bramble Fruits
• Blackberries and raspberries (F-6215 & 6239)
• Perennial root
• Biennial canes
– Primocanes & floricanes
• Good longevity
• Annual pruning
• Easy to grow
• Variety selection most important
Inset pictures: Top - blackberries; bottom - red
raspberries
Discussion: Bramble fruits include blackberries and
Cane Growth
• Primocanes
– First year growth
• Floricanes
– Second year growth
– Fruit bearing canes
Inset picture: Line drawing illustrating primocanes on left
and floricanes on right.
Discussion: It is important to understand how brambles grow
in order to prune properly and train if a trellis is being used.
All brambles have biennial canes on perennial roots. The
first year growth is called a primocane. The second year
growth is the fruit bearing cane called the floricane. Pruning
and training to a trellis requires the recognition of this trait
Planting Bramble Fruits
– Feb. or Mar. (dormant season)
– Spread roots and cover completely
– Only 1 cultivar needed
– 2 - 3 inches. above the roots
– 3 X 8 feet spacing
– Trailing cultivars need trellis
– Apply 4 - 6 inches mulch after growth starts
– Apply fertilizer according to soil test
– Split application at bloom and after harvest
– Fertilize annually and retest in 3 years
Inset picture: New planting of blackberry on a raised bed.
Discussion: Plants or root cutting should be placed in rows
Pruning Brambles
• Removal of dead canes
• Thinning canes
• Lateral pruning
• Heading back
Inset picture: Line drawing illustrating cane thinning (top);
lateral pruning (middle); and heading back (bottom).
Discussion: Pruning of brambles involves annual removal of
dead canes. This should be done as soon as possible to
eliminate insect and disease problems associated with the
floricanes for the previous season. The canes that have
fruited gradually die, and removal after harvest or during the
winter is a good management practice. Brambles should be
thinned within the row to 3-4 per foot and the laterals should
Culture of Bramble Fruits
– Black and purple raspberries and erect blackberries
headed back @ 2 - 4 feet - June
– Red raspberry and thornless blackberry - not headed
back - need support system
– Mid - March laterals should be pruned on all brambles to
12 inches
– All dead or diseased canes removed
– New canes are reduced to 3 - 4 per plant
– Need 2 inches of water every 2 weeks (irrigate )
Discussion: Pruning and irrigation are two cultural practices
necessary for good plant growth and well developed fruit.
Because brambles can be such ramblers, pruning is critical
Weed Control in Brambles
• Destroy perennial vegetation before planting
• Mulch with organic matter
• Hoe or pull weeds near plants
• Keep alleys mowed short
Inset pictures: Two pictures of brambles growing
under good weed control conditions.
Discussion: In blackberries and raspberries, clean
cultivation or organic mulches may be used to control
weeds. Cultivation should be kept shallow to prevent
injury to roots. Mulch is a good means of keeping
weeds controlled. Plastic and mesh-type mulches
are not a good choice because these will interfere
Blackberries
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Hardy plants - few pests
Most productive bramble
Grow well on wide range of soils
Well-drained sandy soil preferred
Enriched with humus
Prune to prevent rambling
Two forms
– erect and trailing
Inset pictures: Top - blackberries in bloom; bottom blackberry fruit
Discussion: Blackberries are typically larger and more vigorous
than the other brambles. Blackberries are very productive and
a few plants will provide adequate yields for most families.
Blackberry Varieties
• Erect blackberries recommended
Varieties listed in order of ripening
– Choctaw (thorned)
– Cheyenne (thorned)
– Cherokee (thorned)
– Arapaho (thornless)
– Shawnee (thorned)
– Navaho (thornless)
Inset picture: A segment of cane from a thorned blackberry
and a segment of cane from a thornless variety.
Discussion: Variety selection is important and should be
considered before planting. The harvest season can be
Raspberries
• New varieties better suited for south
• Pulls free from core when picked
• Red, yellow, purple, and black varieties
• Red and yellow - more cold tolerant
Discussion: Raspberries have not been recommended
for our growing area in the past. However, some new
varieties have created a renewed interest in
raspberries. Since raspberries often break bud during
warm periods in January or February, the plants are
susceptible to cold damage later in the season.
Raspberries are not heat tolerant and should be
placed in 50% shaded site.
The distinguishing factor of raspberries is the fact that
it pulls free of its core when picked. Other bramble
Diseases of Brambles
Introductory slide
Discussion: Blackberries and raspberries grown in
backyard situations are often produced successfully
without diseases causing significant problems.
Occasionally the canes and fruit will be attacked by
diseases and in those situations the appropiate
control measures need to be implemented.
Anthracnose
Elsinoe veneta
Blackberry
• Reduces size and quality of fruit on infected
canes
• Symptoms on canes:
– Early - light grayish spots about 1/8 inch in
diameter
– Late - spots enlarge and develop purple
borders and ash-gray centers
Inset picture: Segment of blackberry cane
expressing typical symptoms of an anthracnose
infection.
Discussion: Anthracnose is a common cane and
foliage disease of blackberry and dewberry
Rosette
Cercosporella rubi
Blackberry
Symptoms:
• Clusters of foliage at terminals or along fruiting
cane
• Flower buds large and red
• Petals purplish and sepals elongated
• Infected flowers do not set fruit
Control = Sanitation
• Remove infected canes
• Plant resistant varieties
Inset picture: Segment of blackberry cane with
cluster of foliage at the terminals, typical of
Fruit Rot
Botrytis cinerea
Blackberry
•
•
•
•
•
Infects blossoms and fruit
Symptoms on fruit appear near maturity
Watery rot develops on few drupelets
Infected drupelets turn tan
Moist weather allows for development of visual
fungal growth
Inset picture: Blackberry fruit expressing typical tan
coloration associated with infections of Botrytis fruit
rot.
Discussion: Mild, wet weather conditions are ideal for fruit
rot. Overripe fruit is most susceptible. Timely harvest
and spacing plants to encourage good air circulation
Control of Blackberry Diseases
•
•
•
•
Sanitation
Proper plant spacing
Apply recommended fungicides
Spray schedule:
 Dormant season
 Pre-bloom
 5 - 10 % bloom
 Full bloom
 Petal fall
Discussion: There are several diseases, in addition to the ones
included in this program (i.e. orange rust, cane and leaf rusts,
and Septoria leaf spot), that may attack blackberry and result
in reduced yields and/or poor quality fruit.
Insects of Bramble Fruit
• Raspberry crown borer
– Adult is moth, grub in cane
– Damages crown area
– Reduced vigor & breakage
– Galls below soil line
– Eggs laid in late summer
– Larvae bore into canes
– 2-yr. life cycle
– Dig and burn infested canes
– Treat @ pre-bloom
Inset pictures: Top left - Adult raspberry crown borer; top
right - borer damage near crown of raspberry cane; lower
Insects of Bramble Fruits
• Cane borers
– 2 spp.
• Raspberry cane borer
• Red-necked cane borer
– Adult stage is beetle
– Tip girdling and wilting
– Enlargement or galls
– Prune and burn infested canes
Inset pictures: Top - damage (wilting) caused by the
raspberry cane borer; bottom - damage caused by the
red-necked cane borer.
Discussion: Two species of cane borers can affect bramble fruit
production. The raspberry cane borer and the red-necked
Insects of Bramble Fruits
• Leafhoppers
– Adults and nymphs damage plant
– Blotchy yellow leaves
– Reduced cane growth
– Premature leaf drop
– Overwinter beneath leaves & trash
Inset picture: Leafhopper nymphs
Discussion: Adult leafhoppers are about 1/4 inch long and
suck sap from affected plants. The adult overwinters under
leaves and trash near the planting. Eggs are laid on the
lower surface of leaves and nymphs hatch and feed causing
damage. Blotchy yellow leaves and reduced cane growth
are obvious symptoms. Premature leaf drop is also
Insects of Bramble Fruits
• Aphids
– Feed on underside of leaves
– Remove sap
– High reproductive rate
– Be selective when spraying insecticides to avoid aphid
problems
Inset picture: Aphids - adult and young. White objects are
exoskeletons shed by growing aphids.
Discussion: Aphids are very numerous and attack a wide
variety of plants. These tiny insects (less than 1/8 inch) are
variable in color. They may be yellow, green, purplish, or black
in color. Their feeding activity removes sap from the plant and
their high reproductive rate can result in curled, twisted,
discolored, stunted leaves. In addition, ‘honeydew’ secreted
Insects of Bramble Fruits
• Leafrollers
– Not serious pest
– Foliage feeder
– Pinch or remove
– Treat for large #s
Inset pictures: Top - adult leafroller moth; bottom leaf roller larvae
Discussion: Leafrollers are caterpillars that are the
immature stage of several moth species. They roll
leaves up and feed inside. Some species use large
amounts of silken threads to tie leaves together.
Although plants may become heavily infested, they
usually do not affect berry production. Leaf picking
Harvesting Brambles
• Blackberries
– Harvestable second year
– Allow to fully ripen
• Soft, dark blue-black
– Pick while cool & refrigerate
• Raspberries
– Pick 2x weekly
– Minimize handling
– Discard overripe or decaying
– Keep cool
• All brambles should bear for many years
Strawberry
Inset picture:
Introductory
Strawberry
slidefruit
Discussion:
Inset
picture:Strawberries
Strawberry are
fruita delicious and nutritious
fruit. They The
can strawberry
be grown throughout
Discussion:
is rated byOklahoma.
many backyard
Home
plantingsasmay
befavorite
used forfruit.
the family
and
fruit producers
their
It is the
firstforto
supplemental
income.
ripen in the spring,
does not require much space, and
is easy to grow.
Strawberry is a member of the Rose family and is native
to temperate regions. Wild strawberries are native to
America. The common strawberry is believed native
to ChileDelicious
and western North
America;
it has probably
and
Nutritious!
hybridized to some extent with the wild strawberry of
eastern North America.
Planting Sites and Methods
• Use in a bed, the
vegetable garden or
as landscape
• Grow in a matted row
as a perennial crop or
on plastic mulch as an
annual crop
Inset picture: Left:
Grower inspecting
commercial
strawberries; top right
- strawberries growing
Strawberry Site Selection
–
–
–
–
–
Avoid low areas
Provide irrigation
Full sun
Avoid perennial weeds
Avoid areas where other berries or
Solanaceous crops have been grown
Discussion: One key to successful production is
proper site selection. Avoid low-lying areas that
may be susceptible to poor drainage or where cool
air may settle and cause frost damage. Plants will
grow best in full sun. Irrigation will be needed at
times, so choose a site where it will be available.
Strawberry Soil Requirements
• Soil Acidity and Fertility
– pH 6.0 to 6.5 ideal
– Add lime for soil pH adjustment 1 year in
advance
– Add P and K during bed preparation
Discussion: Test soil to determine soil acidity and
nutrient status. If soil is acid, apply lime to adjust.
Your County Extension Educator can help with
interpretations of soil test results. If P and K are
needed, these should be mixed into the soil before
planting.
Strawberry N Requirement
• Apply N - Aug. to Sept. for fruit bud set
• 3 lbs ammonium nitrate/200 ft row
• Soil test established plantings
• Excess and inadequate fertilization are wasteful
Inset picture: Single strawberry plant in bloom
Discussion: Timing of N applications is critical to
successful fruit production. Applying N in the spring
results in vegetative growth and will not increase fruit
production, late summer is the time to apply N.
Established beds need to be tested for soil fertility. If
yearly applications of fertilizer have been applied,
there is a good chance the P and K levels will be
Strawberry Variety Selection
• Bearing types
– June-bearing - Produce a single spring crop.
Berries ripen from early May to late June,
depending on variety.
– Everbearing - Fruiting begins mid-May through
fall. Fruiting begins mid-May to mid-June.
Fruit quality and total yield may be less than
for June-bearing types.
Discussion: Choose varieties so that you will have
fruit when you need it. You may want to plant
several varieties in order to prolong your harvest
period. June-bearing varieties vary in ripening
Strawberry Variety Selection
– Select locally adapted varieties
– Certain varieties require another variety for
cross pollination
– Varieties differ in sweetness, preservation
quality, pest resistance and fruiting period.
– Plant multiple varieties to prevent crop loss to
disease and frost events
– See OSU Fact Sheet-6214
Discussion: Variety selection is a personal choice
based on preference in fruit size, flavor, harvest
dates, etc. However there are some basic factors
everyone should consider in selecting strawberries
Plant Selection Tips
–
–
–
–
Select varieties
Find a reliable and experienced nursery
Place your order early
Accept only healthy-looking plants that are
certified as virus free
Inset picture: Strawberry being grown in a hanging
basket.
Discussion: It is advisable to buy strawberry plants
from an established and experienced nursery. When
plants arrive, or are purchased, inspect the root and
crown areas carefully for obvious symptoms of
disease and insect pests.
Plant Establishment
• Propagate with
rooted runners
from mother plant
Inset picture: Strawberry
plants producing
runners and small
daughter plants.
Discussion: Propagate by
removing runners from
mother plants and
planting into new beds.
This is usually done
Planting Techniques
• Remove all but 2-3
leaves
• Roots may be
clipped
• Keep plants moist
during and after
planting
• Space plants 1.5 to
2.5 feet
• Plant with crown at
soil surface
Inset pictures: Top - line
Strawberry Site Preparation
• Kill existing
vegetation
• Apply soil
amendments such as
fertilizers and organic
materials
• Construct beds
• Provide for drainage
Inset pictures: Top grower preparing to
add fertilizer to
planting site; bottom -
Irrigation for Strawberries
• Soil moisture is important for new and
established plantings
• Strawberries are shallow rooted
• Water every two weeks in spring and summer,
as needed
• Drip or trickle type irrigation is preferred
Inset picture: New strawberry planting growing
under a drip irrigation system
Discussion: The importance of water at planting has
already been discussed. Because strawberries are
shallow rooted, soil moisture is critical for optimum
plant growth. With new plantings, if there is no
Bed Renovation
Begin after harvest completed
– Keep beds narrow and orderly
– Helps to maintain plant health and productivity
Inset pictures: Left - Established strawberry
planting in need of renovation (too many plants);
right - renovated strawberry planting ( plants
have been thinned to allow for growth of runners
and daughter plants).
Discussion: Bed renovation is the process of
narrowing rows and and controlling weeds after
harvest is completed. This will help keep the planting
orderly and keep plants healthy and productive. To
Benefits of Mulching
• Winter mulch - Protects from repeated freezing
and thawing and desiccation.
• Spring/summer mulch - Keeps fruit clean,
prevents erosion, helps control weeds
Inset pictures: Top right: strawberry with frost on
foliage; lower left - strawberry mulched with
straw.
Discussion: Winter mulching will help protect plants
from repeated freezing and thawing and also from
desiccation.
For the summer, leave some mulch in the row. This will
keep fruit from contacting the soil and protect fruit
How to Mulch
– Apply mid- to late-December
– Cover row with 3 inches of clean straw
– Uncover foliage when plant growth resumes in
the spring
– Fabric mulches may be used - see OSU Fact
Sheet F-6214
Discussion: Clean straw (free of weeds) or similar
materials may be used. Apply mulch in mid- to lateDecember, after the plants have become cold hardy.
Plants should be covered loosely, to a depth of three
to four inches. Remove mulch from the foliage when
strawberries resume growth. New growth will be light
Weed Control in Strawberry
• Kill sod and perennial weeds a year before
planting
• Excess fertilization favors weeds
• Keep planted beds free of weeds
• Mulch helps prevent weeds
• See OSU Fact Sheet-6243
Inset pictures: Top left - weed-free strawberry
planting. Weed control obtained through hand
cultivation and herbicides; top right - weed-free
strawberry obtained through hand cultivation and
mulch; bottom - weedy strawberry planting
Discussion: Start with a site that is free of weeds when
Diseases of Strawberry
Introductory slide
Discussion: In Oklahoma strawberries are not a highly
diseased fruit crop. Following proper cultural
practices and planting varieties recommended for
Oklahoma will result in stronger plant growth, and the
plants will be less likely to be attacked by diseases.
However, in certain situations, and often in older
plantings, diseases become established and
decrease the amount of harvestable fruit.
Common Leaf Spot
Mycosphaerella fragariae
Strawberry
• Fungal disease
• Lesions on leaves, calyxes, petioles, stolons
• Leaf lesion - circular, small, deep purple, centers white
to gray
Inset picture: Strawberry leaf showing symptoms of
common leaf spot
Discussion: Symptoms of common leaf spot first appear as
lesions on the upper surface of leaflets and on petioles, fruit
stems and fruit as small, deep purple, indefinite spots. As
the spots become older they enlarge and become circular.
The central part of the spots turns brown, later turning white,
with dark purple borders surrounding the spots. Symptoms
Leaf Scorch
Diplocarpon earlina
Strawberry
• Symptoms:
 Irregular shaped purplish spots
 Brownish centers
 Leaves dry up and edges curl up
• Petioles become infected = death of fruit
Inset picture: Strawberry leaves expressing
symptoms typical of strawberry leaf scorch
Discussion: Lesions produced by leaf scorch are larger
than those produced by common leaf spot. Leaf
scorch is characterized by numerous irregular,
purplish blotches 1/16 to 1/4 inch in diameter. The
centers of the blotches become brownish (not white
Fruit Rot
Botrytis cinerea
Strawberry
• Young blossoms susceptible
• Fruit infections - soft, light brown, enlarge rapidly
• Berry rot control obtained with fungicides applied after
petal fall
• Control
 Cultural practices
 Fungicides
Inset pictures: Upper and lower photo of strawberry fruit
infected with Botrytis fruit rot.
Discussion: Many fungi are capable of causing a fruit rot of
mature or near-mature fruits of strawberry. One of the most
serious berry rots is caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea and
is known by common names such as gray mold, and Botrytis
Strawberry Disease Control
• Spray schedule:
 First application - 10% bloom (Leaf spot, Leaf scorch,
Powdery mildew)
 Second application - full bloom (Leaf spot, Leaf scorch,
Powdery mildew)
 Third application - petal fall (Berry rots, and leaf
diseases)
 Subsequent applications may be necessary (Berry rots,
and leaf diseases)
 Avoid overhead irrigation; fungicides applied on 7- to 10day schedule; refer to fungicide label for waiting periods
Discussion: The infection levels of foliar disease can sometimes
be reduced by employing non-chemical or organic methods
coupled with good cultural practices. However, in some
Red Stele
Phytophthora fragariae
Strawberry
• Lateral roots destroyed = Rattail appearance
• Appears similar to effects of water logging
Inset picture: Strawberry crown with roots
expressing “rattail” symptom
Discussion: Strawberry is host to several root rotting
and wilt diseases. Strawberry plants infected with a
root rot or wilt will grow poorly, frequently be stunted,
have reduced berry production, and will frequently
wilt.
One of the more common root diseases is called red
stele. Red stele is easily recognized by a
characteristic symptom that it produces in infected
Red Stele
Phytophthora fragariae
Strawberry
• Symptoms: stunted plants; discolored leaves
(orange, red, yellow)
• Red discoloration of stele
• Control:
 Improved drainage
 Resistant varieties
Inset picture: Strawberry root infected with red stele
expressing the red discoloration of the root stele.
Discussion: In the spring, the center of an infected root
(stele) will be discolored reddish brown instead of the
normal pale yellow color. Black tips or patches may
occur on the feeder roots and the infected plants
Verticillium Wilt
Verticillium albo-atrum
Strawberry
• 1st year plants most susceptible
• Browning of outer leaves; stunted inner leaves
remain green = most distinguishing symptom
• Control - Resistant varieties
Inset picture: Strawberry plant with brown outer
leaves and stunted inner leaves
Discussion: Verticillium wilt of strawberry occurs in
Oklahoma. The pathogen is a soil-borne fungus
(Verticillium albo-atrum) and it has a wide host range.
Strawberry plants infected with Verticillium wilt are
affected most severely in their first year of growth.
Their outer leaves show marginal and interveinal
Control of Root Rots
and Wilts
•
Resistant varieties
 Early Glow and Sunrise
RS and V
 SureCrop
RS and V
 Mohawk (new)
RS (5 races)
Discussion: Planting disease-resistant strawberry varieties is
a practical and inexpensive way to control several of the
common strawberry diseases. Varieties are available that
have resistance to red stele, Verticillium wilt, anthracnose,
powdery mildew, several of the leaf and stem diseases and
fruit rots. However, when selecting varieties, remember to
Strawberry Insect Pests
• Strawberry weevil
– Adults emerge in early spring
– Damage blossom buds
– Lay eggs, girdle buds
– One generation/yr
– Timing critical
– ‘‘Clippers’’
Inset pictures: Top (left to right):
Strawberry weevil larva, pupa
and adult; Bottom: Strawberry
plant expressing symptoms of
Strawberry Insect Pests
• Aphids
– Post bloom
– Sap feeders
– Stunting and leaf curling
– Honeydew and sooty mold
– Spray before tightly curled
Inset picture: Strawberry stem infested
with aphids
Discussion: Colonies of aphids may develop
on strawberries as well as other plants
Strawberry Insect Pests
• Leafrollers
– Post bloom
– Feeds on leaves and/or fruit
– Skeletonizes leaves from
underside
– Folds and webs leaves together
– Multiple generations
– Foliar sprays
Inset pictures: Leafroller larva with
webbing.
Discussion: In its early stages, leafrollers
Strawberry Insect Pests
• Spittlebugs
– Postbloom
– Overwinter as egg attached to plant
– Eggs hatch and nymph feeds 5-8
weeks
– Reduced yield, stunted berries
– Weakened plants
Inset pictures: Top - close-up of spittlebug
and spittle-like substance; bottom strawberry plant with spittle-like
substance on stems.
Strawberry Insect Pests
• Sowbugs
– Post bloom
– Nocturnal
– Feed on fine roots
– Attack fruit and leaves
touching ground
– Problem under high
populations only
Inset pictures: Top - wide angle
view of many sowbugs; bottom
- close-up of individual sowbug
Strawberry Insect Pests
• Lygus bugs
– Adult
– 3 - 5 gen/yr
– Damage
• Puncture young fruit
• “Button berries”
– Post bloom
Inset pictures: Top - close-up of
lygus bug; bottom - strawberry
fruit with lygus bug damage =
“button berries”
Strawberry Insect Pests
• Mites
– Post bloom
– Reddish - brown blotches
– Silken threads
– Stunted fruit
– Treat at first sign
– Repeat sprays until clean
Inset pictures: Top - close-up of
mites; middle - mites on bottom of
leaf; bottom - strawberry plant
expressing symptoms of mite
Blueberry
Inset picture: Blueberry fruit and foliage
Discussion: Blueberries can be an excellent choice for
a home fruit crop. However they require more
attention to soil preparation, maintaining proper soil
pH and irrigation than many of the other fruit crops.
The fruit can be used in cooking or eaten fresh. They
can also be frozen, canned, preserved as jams or
dried for use as a substitute for raisins.
Site selection
Blueberry
•
•
•
•
•
•
Avoid areas prone to late frosts
Well drained
Full sun
pH 4.0 to 5.5
Sandy loam with added organic matter - ideal
Control weeds, especially bermudagrass and wild
blackberries
Inset picture: Blueberry bush with trickle irrigation
Discussion: Blueberries need a site in full sun.
Excellent drainage is essential, hence, raised beds
are highly recommended.
pH Requirement
Blueberry
• Soil test to determine pH
• Add sulfur to lower pH
Inset picture: Bag of sulfur
Discussion: Blueberries require an acid soil (4.0 to 5.5)
and many sites in Oklahoma will require some
adjustment to the soil to be within the ideal pH range
for blueberry production.
In order to accurately determine the soil pH, a soil test
must be submitted to OSU Soil Lab for analysis.
Sulfur may be added to lower the soil pH. The amount
of sulfur required will be determined by the soil pH
and the soil type.
Sulfur/pH Table
lbs. of S per 100 square feet
to lower soil pH one unit
• Sand: 1.0 to 1.5
• Loam: 2.0 to 3.0
• Clay:
3.0 to 4.0
Blueberry Types
• Highbush
• Rabbiteye
• Southern Highbush
Inset picture: Blueberry blossoms
Discussion: There are three basic types of blueberries
that will grow in Oklahoma: highbush, rabbiteye, and
southern highbush.
Refer to Blueberry Production section of Study Guide
and to OSU Fact Sheet #F-6248 “Blueberry
Production for Home Garden”.
Highbush
Blueberry
• 5 to 25 feet tall
• Ripen in May
• Requires 800 hours of chilling
• Performs best in northern Oklahoma
Inset picture: Example of highbush blueberry
growing in NE Oklahoma
Discussion: Highbush blueberries may grow 5 to 25
feet tall (8 to 10 is average) and require 800 hour of
chilling below 45 degrees F. They perform best in
northern Oklahoma.
Rabbiteye
Blueberry
• 5 to 20 feet tall
• Ripen in May and early June
• Requires 150 to 600 hours of chilling
• Performs best in central and southern Oklahoma
• More heat tolerant
Inset pictures: Top - example of a rabbiteye
blueberry (variety unknown); bottom - close-up of
foliage of rabbiteye blueberry
Discussion: Rabbiteye blueberries grow 5 to 20 feet
tall and require 150 to 600 hours of chilling below 45
degrees F. They ripen in May and early June and
perform best in central and southern Oklahoma
Southern Highbush
Blueberry
• Intermediate between highbush and rabbiteye
• Ripen about 3 weeks earlier than rabbiteye
• Should perform well throughout Oklahoma
Discussion: Intermediate between highbush and
rabbiteye in most respects.
Ripen about 3 weeks earlier than rabbiteye and should
perform well across Oklahoma.
Most southern highbush are self-fertile, but two varieties
should be planted in order to get better yields.
Planting and Culture
• Plant mid-January to late March
• Plant two year old plants - 12 to 16 inches in
height
• Plant two or more varieties
• Set plants approximately 5 feet apart
• Set the plants without washing soil from roots
• Mulch at the time of planting and maintain mulch
• First year apply one application of N in the fall
following first season
Discussion: Blueberries require special care. They
must have an acid soil. They should be mulched.
Fertilizing Established Blueberries
• Ammonium N is better than nitrate N
• Apply N in small applications
– once before bloom
– once after fruit set
– once in the fall
• Apply P and K according to soil test
• Apply fertilizers uniformly within dripline
• Avoid the base of the plant
Discussion: Blueberries require much less N than
other fruit corps, excess nitrogen will kill them.
Refer to OSU Fact Sheet F-6248 for more information
Pruning Blueberries
• Summer pruning
– Removal of broken and diseased branches
– Size control - prune soon after harvest
• Winter pruning
– Removal of dead, diseased and “deranged”
and dying canes
– Thin healthy canes - 6 to 10 main canes per
plant
– Tip remaining canes to maintain convenient
harvest height
Discussion: Blueberries produce fruit on wood grown
Diseases of Blueberry
Introductory slide
Discussion: Blueberries are do not have a large
number of disease problems, but some that occur
are very destructive.
Mummy Berry Disease
Monilinia vaccinii-corymbosi
Blueberry
Berries shrivel and turn pinkish
Berries fall to ground and turn brown
• Favored by cold, wet weather
• Infects very young tissue
• Source of inoculum
 Infected fruit mummies on ground
Inset picture: Blueberry fruit shriveled and
discolored due to mummy berry disease
Discussion: Although mummy berry is not reported as
being a major problem in Oklahoma it has the
potential of causing considerable damage to
Phytophthora Root Rot
Phytophthora cinnamomi
Blueberry
• Early symptoms:
 Yellowing of leaves
 Small terminal leaves
 Lack of new growth
 Excessive defoliation
Inset picture: Blueberry plant expressing symptoms of
Phytophthora root rot - Note the excessive defoliation.
Discussion: This disease is caused by the soil-borne fungus
Phytophthora cinnamomi and although the symptoms listed
on this slide are termed “early symptoms” the disease actually
initially infects the root system and results in the symptoms
listed on the slide. Most highbush cultivars are susceptible to
Phytophthora Root Rot
Phytophthora cinnamomi
Blueberry
• Root system discolored
• Brown to black epidermis
• Uniform light brown discoloration of vascular
tissue
• Control: Avoid poorly drained areas
• Apply metalaxyl soil fungicide
Inset picture: Blueberry roots infected with
Phytophthora root rot. Note the dark brown
discoloration of the root and crown tissues.
Discussion: Phytophthora root rot is considered a
“minor” disease in much of the eastern U.S.,
however, in Oklahoma it is known to frequently occur.
Stem Cankers
Blueberry
Pathogens: Botryosphaeria, Gloeosporium,
Phomopsis
Occur periodically in Oklahoma
Symptoms: Discolored lesions on stems
Infected stems eventually wilt and die
Inset picture: Left to right: Blueberry stems with
lesions (pathogen unknown); stem canker lesions
caused by Botryosphaeria; Botryosphaeria stem
cankers 3-4 years after infection; Gloeosporium
canker and dieback
Discussion: There are several fungi that infect
blueberry and cause cankers to develop on the
Blueberry Disease Control
Spray Schedule




Delayed dormant - just before bud break
Mid-bloom
First post-pollination - about May 25 to June 1
Second post-pollination - 7-12 days after first
post-pollination
 Cover sprays - beginning 7-12 days after second
post-pollination, continue as needed on a 7-12
day schedule.
Discussion: It may not be necessary to spray
blueberries with fungicides unless the patch has a
history of fungal diseases such as anthracnose. But,
occasionally these diseases do become established
Blueberry Insects
• Scale insects
– Delayed dormant
– Just before bud break
– Dormant pruning
– Foliar sprays for crawlers
– Reduced vigor
– Uncontrolled - death
Inset picture: Close-up of scale on
blueberry
Discussion: Many parts of the blueberry
plant can be infested with scale insects.
Blueberry Insects
• Leafrollers
– Season-long pest
– Foliar sprays
– Removal
– Not serious pest
Inset pictures: Top - blueberry leaf expressing signs of
leafroller damage; bottom - leafroller larva with
webbing.
Discussion: Leafrollers are caterpillars that are the
immature stage of several moth species. They roll leaves
up and feed inside. Some species use large amounts of
silken threads to tie leaves together. Although plants may
Blueberry Insects
• Leafhoppers
– Stippling
– Chlorosis
– Hopperburn
– Young leaves
– Young trees
Inset pictures: Leafhopper nymph and adult
Discussion: Leafhoppers are yellowish-green to pale
green in color in both the adult and nymphal stage.
The winged adult is about 1/8 inch long (slightly
larger than the wingless nymph). Adults will hop and
Blueberry Insects
• Leaf miners
– Adult deposits eggs
– Larvae feeds on foliage
– Post pollination
– Cover sprays
Inset pictures: Leaves
expressing signs of leaf
miner damage; middle - leaf
miner larva; bottom - leaf
miner adult
Discussion: Leaf miners damage
leaves by leaving trails that
Blueberry Insects
• Cherry fruitworm
– Eggs laid on fruit
– Larvae bore into fruit
– Brown trails
– Distorted fruit
– Well-timed sprays
Inset pictures: Top left - cherry
fruitworm larva; top right cherry fruitworm adult moth;
middle - fruitworm damage on
Blueberry Insects
• Aphids
– Sap feeders
– Undersides of leaf
– Distorted leaves
– Honeydew
Inset pictures: Top - aphid damage on blueberry foliage;
bottom - aphids on blueberry leaf
Discussion: Aphid infestations can become serious with
high populations. These tiny insects, often called plant
lice, are generally found on the lower sides of leaves.
Many species of aphids can and do attack fruit crops.
Color varies with species and ranges from pale yellow to
Blueberry Insects
• Plum curculio
– Early season pest
– Attacks fruit
– Crescent scars
– Fruit drop
Inset pictures: Top - plum curculio damage on blue
berry fruit; bottom - adult plum curculio feeding on
blueberry fruit
Discussion: The damage caused by this pest includes:
crescent-shaped scars, internal injury by larvae,
premature dropping of fruit, and feeding punctures in the
fall. These snout beetles migrate from woodlots for
Blueberry Insects
• Blueberry maggot
– Most important pest
– Larvae feed inside berry
– 1 per berry
– Flies emerge in June
– Most severe
• Following cold winter
• Wet conditions at harvest
– Spray every 10 days when flies begin egg laying
Inset picture: Blueberry maggot adult (lower left), blueberry
maggot larva(upper right)
Blueberry Harvest
• Limited production first year
• Mature plant produces 14 to 23 pints depending
on pruning and variety
• Cluster does not ripen evenly = harvest individual
berries
• Ripe berry - uniform blue
• Harvest every 5 to 7 days
Inset picture: Blueberry fruit
Discussion: In Oklahoma blueberries begin to ripen in
late May and continue into late June. The berries are
ready to harvest after they have turned a uniform light
blue. Redness indicates the berry is not fully ripe.
Acknowledgements
Appreciation is extended to the following for the use of
some images contained in the Backyard Fruit
Production Program:
Michigan State Cooperative Extension Service
North Carolina Cooperative Extension Service
Ohio State University Cooperative Extension Service
Oregon State Cooperative Extension Service
Texas Cooperative Extension Service
West Virginia Cooperative Extension Service
Backyard Fruit Production
Program developed by:
Oklahoma Cooperative Extension Service
Oklahoma State University
Susan Gray, Extension Educator, Horticulture
Phil Pratt, Area Extension Specialist, Plant Pathology
Jim Shrefler, Area Extension Specialist, Horticulture
Bill Stacey, Area Extension Specialist, Entomology