Transcript Seed Starting and Garden Planning

Seed Starting and
Garden Planning
What to grow, why to grow it,
and how to get started!
Lindsay Schramm
North End Organic Nursery
Ada County Master Gardener
July 21, 2015\
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What do you want to grow
and Why?
• Save money on groceries
• Health and Nutrition
• Flavor
• Variety
• Food Storage
• Medicinal
• Self Reliance/ Sustainability
• Recreation/ Relaxation
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Best Veggies for your Budget and
Limited Space
Top $$ saving crops
1. Tomatoes/ Peppers/ Eggplant
2. Peas
3. Green Beans
4. Asparagus
5. Herbs
6. Artichokes
7. Melons and Winter Squash
8. Berries
9. Lettuce/ specialty greens
10. Garlic
11. Tree Fruit
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Top picks to purchase instead
1. Cabbage/Broccoli/ Cauliflower
2. Onions
3. Potatoes
4. Carrots
5. Beets
6. Corn
7. Grains
8. Dry Beans/ Soup Beans
9. Celery
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Gardening for Nutrition
Foods with highest nutrient density
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Beets/ Beet Greens
Broccoli
Brussel Sprouts
Carrots
Chard
Kale
Mustard Greens
Parsley
Bell Peppers (red, yellow, orange NOT green)
Spinach
Tomatoes
Turnip Greens
Winter Squash
Watermelon
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Food Storage & Self Reliance
Canning, dehydrating, root cellaring, pickling, freezing
Choose varieties known for their ability to store well or
process well (eg: canning tomatoes, pickling cucumbers,
storage onions).
Calorie crops vs. Nutrient crops
Choose varieties that ripen in stages for longer harvest.
Plan garden for succession plantings and hot and cold
crops.
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Early Spring Garden Prep
Remove debris and weeds from last season.
Refresh existing beds with good compost.
Plan and build new beds.
Rough layout and measure for succession and
cross-season efficiency.
Make plans for crop rotation and companion
planting.
Solarize beds where disease or excessive weeds
were a problem .
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Why Start Seeds Indoors?
Earlier harvest
Control germination
Selection of strongest plants
Prevent pest and weather damage to young
seedlings
Compensation for length of season
Increase variety of vegetables available to you
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Tools needed for
successful seed starting
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Soil-less Medium
Soil-less medium important to
prevent seedling diseases like
damping off. Choices include:
Seed starting mix
Peat or Coco pellets
Rock wool (Grodan)
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Trays and Celled Inserts
Open tray seeding good
for plants whose roots
are not sensitive.
Use small, plantable
cells/ pots for plants that
have sensitive roots
(cucurbit family).
Select cell/ pot size
appropriate to seed size.
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Heat Mats
Many seeds need temperatures of
60-70 F to germinate, or at least
germinate much better at these
temperatures such as:
Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant
Basil, cilantro
Cucurbits
NOT needed for lettuces,
cruciferous veggies, spinach
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Light
As soon as cotyledon leaves
appear, light is critical (12-15
hrs ideally).
Lack of light makes
unhealthy spindly plants.
If using light from window,
be sure to turn plants daily
to prevent leaning.
Use supplemental lighting if
adequate natural light isn’t
available.
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5 basic steps for starting your seeds
1.
The growing medium should be thoroughly moistened before it is
placed in your seed starting containers (warm water works best).
2. Fill the trays or containers with mix and gently tamp down soil to
reduce air space. You want to leave ¼ to ½ inch at the top.
3. Seeds can either be scattered on the soil surface or placed individually
into each growing cell. Most seeds should be covered with a fine layer
of soil. You should cover most seeds two to three times their thickness,
but read seed packet for specific directions.
4.
Gently moisten the growing medium (using a mister or gentle
watering can) to ensure good contact between the seeds and the soil.
Label each flat, row, or container with a wood or plastic marker so you
can identify them later. Save the seed packet for reference.
5. Make sure soil is kept consistently moist, but not soaking wet, during
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germination.
When do you fertilize?
Since the “soil less”
medium is generally
lacking nutrients the plant
will need to be fed once it
produces second set of
true leaves.
Feed with soluble organic
fertilizer, like fish and kelp
and/or “bump up” to
larger pot with nutrient
rich potting soil.
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Common Problems
Seeds didn’t germinate, or didn’t germinate well.
- Seeds were over watered and rotted.
- Seeds dried out from lack of .
- Seeds were planted too deep or not deep enough.
- Seeds are too old.
- Low germination rate on seed species.
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Common Problems, cont.
Seedlings look spindly
- Not enough light (ideal is 12-15 hrs).
- Too much warmth or fertilizers.
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Common Problems, cont.
Veins and underside of leaves turning purple
- Phosphorus deficiency
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Common Problems, cont.
Young Seedling seems healthy, then topples over at base
- Damping off fungal disease. Preventable by using soil less medium,
preventing over-watering.
- Water with weak chamomile tea.
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Common Problems, cont.
Mold developing on soil surface
- Result of over-watering.
- Not harmful if corrected by holding back water. If left
unchecked, can block oxygen from root zone. Can be
manually broken up, as below.
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Transplanting
Transplant when plant has second set of true leaves, or when it
outgrows its space.
Tease roots free of tray with spoon, butter knife, or mini-transplanter.
Try not to handle stem too much as it is fairly fragile. Hold plant by
leaves when moving.
Plants in the cucurbit family don’t like their roots disturbed, so plant in
plantable pot and transport directly to garden after danger of frost has
past.
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When do you transplant outside?
Our statistical last frost free date is approx May 10 . . . Which only means on
that date we still have a 50% change of frost. Be prepared with season
extenders if you decide to move your tender plants outside before that date.
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What shouldn’t you start indoors?
The following should be direct-seeded in your garden.
Carrots
Beets
Turnips
Radishes
Garlic
Potatoes
Beans
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Direct Seed for Succession Crop
Lettuce
Zucchini
Spinach
Kale
Carrots
Beets
Onions
Greens
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Thank you and Happy Growing!
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