Then Indhiya Samayam Iravu -An evening of South Indian Cooking
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Transcript Then Indhiya Samayam Iravu -An evening of South Indian Cooking
Then Indhiya Samayal Iravu
-An Evening of South Indian Cooking
Anita Subramaniam, Ph.D.
Anita Subramaniam
Tradition, Tradition, Tradition!
"India is, the cradle of the human race,
the birthplace of human speech, the
mother of history, the grandmother of
legend, and the great grandmother of
tradition."
-Mark Twain
Anita Subramaniam
Anita Subramaniam
Differences within ethnicity
Rice eaters
Spices- red chilies, green
chilies, cumin, coriander
seeds, asafetida, turmeric,
pepper, fenugreek seeds.
Jaggery instead of sugar
Coconut and tamarind used
for gravy
Steaming, pressure
cooking, fermenting,
boiling, roasting
North Indians eat
whole wheat
(chapattis and rotis),
Maida (refined wheat)
(naans, parathas)
Cardamoms, cloves,
cinnamon, nutmeg,
pomegranate seeds
(ajmer)
Sugar more than
jaggery
Tomatoes and onions
for making the gravy
Frying, roasting,
baking, marinating
Anita Subramaniam
Differences in South Indian Cooking
Kannadigas – jaggery, has sweet
and sour taste
Telugus – extra hot foods
Keralites – a lot of coconut,
coconut milk, use coconut oil for
frying
Tamils – tamarind, coconut
Madurai/Kancheepuram (idlis)
Chettinad (mainly non-vegetarian,
extra spicy)
Thanjavore/Trichi (Rice Bowl of
India)
Tirunelvelli (Halwa)
Palghat (coconut milk, elliseri,
jackfruit payasam)
Indo French cooking (Pondicherry,
Cheeses)
Anglo Indian cooking (soups
(mulagitawny soup), breads,
chips)
Anita Subramaniam
Tamil Society – Clothing & Food
Tamils live all over the world.
There are Tamils in
Singapore, Thailand,
Madagascar, Malaysia, Sri
Lanka, Canada, Australia, UK,
and US.
Anita Subramaniam
Introduction to Tamil Cooking
Today’s menu consists of home recipes
A few of the innumerous items using traditional
Indian vegetables and recipes
Variety of items prepared for one wholesome
meal
Vary from laborious and very simple
Vary from spicy hot to very sweet
Healthy and unhealthy foods
Combination of several ingredients to prepare
one dish
Many of these items are prepared in more than
one way.. there is no single way of preparation
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Tamil Nadu
Food Crops
Cash Crops
Rice
Ragi
Bajra
Masoor Dal
Moong Dal
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Cotton
Sugar cane
Jute
Tea
Coffee
Rubber
Plaintain
Mango
Tamarind
Spices
History of Agriculture
Early Humans were good gatherers
not producers
In India, food production is evident
from Indus Valley period.
Intensive excavations at Kalibangan,
one of the important pre-Harappan
sites in Bikaner division of Rajasthan
have laid bare a furrowed field
showing in the third Millennium B.C.,
farming was well developed.
Ploughing using oxen and bulls
Six, eight & repeated ploughing was
done to acquire desired quality of the
soil.
Cow dung was used as manure.
Earthworms grown to till the soil
The Vedic farmers knew the method
of improving the fertility of the soil by
crop rotation method.
Agricultural Traditions are Maintained!
Anita Subramaniam
Rice - the main food crop
India one of the largest exporters of
rice, ranking second in the world next
to Thailand (Money Matters, 2004)
India produces about 78 million tonnes
of rice (rice consumption of the world
is around 408 million tonnes)
(Business Standard, 2003)
Profile of a Rice Producing Factory :
http://www.nazricenfoods.com/prof_n
en.html
Rice production for this year is going
to be affected both in India and China
due to poor monsoon season
Rice grown in India is of different
varieties
Kuttharisi (parboiled)
Ponni
Samba
Idly
Jasmine flavored rice
Rose flavored rice
Red rice
Parboiled rice
Rice steamed with the outer husk before
dehusking
This enables the rice grain to retain BVitamins that are usually lost during the
dehusking process.
converted rice = parboiled rice
• Fast-cooking white rice
• When cooked, the grains are more
nutritious, firmer, and less clingy than white
rice grains. Uncle Ben's is a well-known
brand.
Parboiled rice is now available in other
cities in India and in the US and UK
Anita Subramaniam
Pulses – Main Protein Source
• Peas, beans and lentils are
known as pulses.
• They are the seeds of plants
belonging to the family
Leguminosae
• Rich in Protein, Carbohydrate,
Fiber, Vitamins (C)
• Low in Fat; contains
unsaturated fats
• Some are high in iron and
calcium
Anita Subramaniam
Indian Vegetables and Fruits
The common South Indian vegetables
are:
Snake gourd
Bitter gourd
Avaraikai (broad beans)
Thondakai
Drumstick
Raw plantains
Banana flower (Vazha poo)
Banana stem (Vazha thandu)
Taro root (Shepangazhangu)
Karamani (long beans)
Small brinjals
White pumpkin
Different varieties of greens
Yams (Karnakazhangu)
Kothavanrangai (cluster beans).
Fruits that we use are:
Papaya
Jack fruit
Different varieties of mangoes
Sapota
Guavas
Different varieties of bananas
Perichampazham
Pomegranate
Nagapazham.
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Spices and Condiments
Coriander seeds
Curry leaves
Mustard
Cilantro
Red chilies
Green chilies
Cumin seeds
Fenugreek seeds
(Vit. E)
Asafotida
Tamarind
Til (Gingili seeds)
Ginger
Turmeric
Cardamom
Black pepper
Vanilla
Rose essence
Saffron
India is known as the 'The home of spices'. There is no other
country in the world that produces as many kinds of spices as
India. The climate of the country is suitable for almost all
spices.
According to the International Organization For Standardization
(ISO); The term 'spices and condiments' applies to such natural
plant or vegetable products or mixtures thereof, in whole or
ground form, as are used for imparting flavor, aroma and piquancy
to and for seasoning of foods".
There are over 80 spices grown in different parts of the world and
around 50 spices are grown in India.
ROLE OF SPICES
They add tang and flavor to otherwise insipid foods.
Some of them also possess antioxidant properties, while others are
used as preservatives in some foods like pickles and chutneys, etc.
For good breath ..Chewing certain spices like cardamom, cumin,
clove; improves digestion and acts as a mouth freshener.
Some spices also possess strong anti-microbial and antibiotic
activities.
Many of them possess medicinal properties and have a profound
effect on human health, since they effect many functional
processes.
Spices act as a stimulates to the digestive system and help
digestion in many
ways. Spices possibly activate the adrenoAnita Subramaniam
cortical function and fortify resistance and physical capacity.
Stroke frequency , and blood pressure can be diminished or
Cooking Methods
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Traditional Tools
Aruvamanai
Ammi, Attukkal
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Traditions in Meal Preparation
Always cooked the same day
Cooks get to work very early in
the morning – 5 a.m.
Cooking only after shower
Must wear proper clothing
No footwear
Usually cooking done by
women
Although some households
have male cooks
Male cooks (only) for wedding
and festive occasions
Male and females do not
usually cook together
Feet always washed before
entering the house (guests)
(WHY?)
Vegetables are washed before
cutting
Hands washed after each
activity
Must not touch old food (if
any) while cooking; if done,
wash hands
Utensils washed before use
(even if washed before)
Cooking area cleansed after
every meal preparation
Cooking area is decorated with
kolams in the night
Anita Subramaniam
Pressure Cooking
• Healthy, no fat
• Several items cooked at the
same time
• Conserves time and fuel
• Cooks food well
• No loss of nutrients as water is
not drained
• Can be dangerous if not
properly installed
• Pressure can cause
food burst and to be
thrown out
• Makes noise
• May
undercook/overcook food
Anita Subramaniam
Wet Grinding
• Indian wet grinders use the same
concept as used in hand grinding
• Wet grinders are quicker than hand
grinding
• Wet grinders grind food for idlis and
dosas better than food processors
• Not useful for small quantities
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Steaming
• Idlis and many items used are
cooked by steaming
• Healthy
• No fat used
• Quick
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Frying
Less frequent than pressure cooking, steaming or
roasting
Frying limited to side items such as chips like varuvals,
appalams, and pappadams
These are usually made once a week and saved
Frying also for Tiffin – afternoon snacks
Shallow frying more common than deep fat frying (dosa,
adai, appams)
Limited to festive occasions and social get together
Only vegetable oil used- sunflower oil most common in
India; gingili oil and coconut oil used a few decades ago
Ghee used for seasoning and desserts
Anita Subramaniam
Food Eating Patterns
Anita Subramaniam
Food Eating Patterns
One of the main influences on Indian cuisine is the Hindu religion
Many Hindus are vegetarians
In addition, most of the Hindu people, as far as I know, don’t eat beef.
Cows are considered sacred in India and are worshiped by Hindus Pork is
also not common
(http://www.bhc.edu/International/esl2/news/FALL%202003/Articles/indian
eating.htm)
Mutton and Chicken are the most common types of meat consumed
Region and religion affect Indian eating patterns
Muslims are forbidden to eat pork and pork products. All Jains and some
Hindus are strict vegetarians, though they do consume dairy products
In addition, Indians follow restricted diets for pregnancy and mourning.
There is also a selected system of fasting related to religious practices
At home, Indians often eat meals sitting cross-legged on a floor mat.
Instead of cutlery, the right hand is used for eating and a piece of fresh
banana leaf or stainless steel plate (thali) serves as a plate.
While the rest of the household eats, women serve the meals and wait until
everyone has finished dining before sitting down themselves.
(http://www.settlement.org/cp/english/india/eating.html)
Anita Subramaniam
Traditions in Serving Food
Food generally served on banana
leaves
Leaf is placed before the guest
The corner of the leaf faces right of
the person
Water is served first, no other
beverage is served
Leaf is cleaned by sprinkling water and
brushing the water with fingers (left to
right)
Food eaten with hands –using only
fingers not the palm
Only right hand is used for eating
Food eaten sitting on the floor on the
full lotus position with erect back
Seating is from left to right – no gaps
The most important person served first
Sometimes the first leaf is for
“puthras” (ancestors)
Usually in most Hindu homes, the crow
is served rice, dal and ghee first
outside the house
Food served clockwise
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Food served from top right corner of
the leaf to left
Order of Serving/Eating Food
Foods served first:
Serving starts with a spoon of
“payasam”
Dhal
Followed by salads – vegetable and
fruit
Vegetable dishes
Chutneys and pickle
Vadas, laddoos and other items
First Serving of Rice:
Rice
Ghee
Sambhar
Appalam
Second Serving of Rice:
Morekozhambu
Second serving of all dishes that has
been consumed
Third Serving of Rice:
Rasam
Appalam
Main Dessert:
Full cup of payasam
Fourth Serving of Rice:
Yogurt
Wash Hands and chew betel leaves
Digestive:
Betel leaves with betel nut and
Calcium Carbonate (lime)
Some men and women combine
chewing tobacco with betel leaves
Anita Subramaniam
Traditions After the Meal
All food served must be consumed
Unconsumed food generally set in one side of the leaf
Leaf must not be folded
Guest gets up and washes hands
Hostess always takes away the leaf after ALL the guests
get up
Concept of Dharma- serving food to guests is considered
dharma (a generous act)
Hostess cleans the place with her hands
Burping is sign of contentment of food
Guest must sit for sometime before leaving
Betel leaf with lime and betel nuts served when the
guest is seated with washed hands
Anita Subramaniam
Festive Occasions
Are many and celebrated with
a lot of sincerity and regularity
All members participate
Certain festivals all extended
family members attend
Several gods and each god is
revered
Flowers, betel Leaves, betel
nut, fruits, and, coconut are
sacred offerings for all the
festivals
Special items of food are
prepared specific to each
festival
Anita Subramaniam
4 Meals a Day!!
Common Breakfast items
Lunch/Dinner items
Coffee
Idlis
Dosas
Uppuma
Poori
Pongal
Accompanied by sambhar,
chutney, podis
Common Tiffin items:
Vadas
Bondas
Pakodas
Savai
Adais
Rice
Rasam
Sambhar
Kootu
Curry
Appalam
Yogurt
Pickle
Thokayal
Podis
In some households, tiffin
items are served for
dinner.
Anita Subramaniam
A Typical Meal
Rice
Rasam
Sambhar
Kootu
Poriyal/Curry
Yogurt
Ghee
Plain cooked Dhal
Sweets on occasions only
One or two of the
below:
Chutney
Pickle
Pachadi
Appalam
Salad
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Snacks & Sweets
Ribbon pakoda
Muthsarai
Mixture
Chips – banana,
nenthranga
Omapodi
Murukku
Thattai
Mysore pakku
Cashew nut/Almond
cake
Athirasam
Kesari
Halwa
Jamun
Payasam
Usually prepared on festive occasions
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Some Traditional Recipes
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Traditional Juice
Panagam (PAAnagam)
Jaggery
Lime
Ginger
Cardamom
Served before food
Only beverage served with food is water.
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Traditional Beverage
Coffee
Made from fresh decoction
Decoction made through filtration
Freshly ground coffee powder (powdering
usually done in coffee mills – shops specifically
that powder coffee)
Add coffee powder to the top compartment of
the filter
Add boiling hot water over a spoon
Consumed with milk and sugar
Anita Subramaniam
Yogurt
One of the most
important sources of
Calcium
Yogurt is consumed more
than milk in some
households
Yogurt used in cooking
preparations
Always the last item to be
consumed in a meal
If one does not wish to
eat rice and yogurt, s/he
usually consumes
buttermilk
Yogurt consumed at least
two times a day
2 cups
Thick form
Made from whole fat milk
Sometimes from cow’s
milk (yellowish in color)
Buffalo milk – whitish in
color
The cream of the yogurt
is collected to make
butter
Butter prepared by
churning with hand
Churner tied to a rope
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Ghee
Prepared from butter
Ghee is prepared by boiling butter until it
turns transparent and dark brown
sediments begin to form
Ghee is served with rice except when rice
is served with yogurt
Ghee reduces the spiciness of food
Anita Subramaniam
Ghee and Yogurt
Ghee
Melt unsalted butter
and let it boil until a
light brown sediment
is formed
Store ghee in a cool
place
No refrigeration
required
Yogurt
Boil milk
Let it cool
Add some old yogurt
(about 2 tsps.)
Let it set in room
temperature
Once set, refrigerate.
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pakodas
Ingredients
Channa flour (besan) 2 cups
Rice flour 1 cup
Onions 2 chopped length wise
Ginger a small piece grated
Green chilies 4 chopped
Red chili powder
Cashews 1/4 cup
Curry leaves a few
Ghee (melted butter) 2-3 tsp
Cooking Oil 4 tsp
Cilantro a small bunch washed
and finely chopped
Salt 1 tsp
Cooking Oil for frying
Method
Mix channa flour, rice flour, chili
powder, cilantro and salt
Heat 4 tsp of oil, and 3 tsp of
ghee in a pan and add it to the
above
Now add chopped onions, green
chilies and mix everything well
Make small irregular balls and
deep fry in oil.
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idlis
Ingredients
Par boiled rice 3 cups
Urad dhal (Black gramdeskinned) 1 cup
Salt 2 tsp
Method
Rinse and soak rice and
urad dhal separately in
water for 2 hours
Grind the two separately,
and mix them together
with salt
Let it ferment overnight
Make idlis using idli trays
Steam (no pressure).
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rice
Jasmine or Raw Rice
1 cup
3 cups of water
Pressure cook using
pressure cooker
Or use rice cooker
Or cook in an utensil
using excess water
and drain the water
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onion sambhar
Ingredients
Tur dhal 1 cup
Coriander seeds (Dhania) 3 tsp
Channa dhal 2 tsp
Red chilies 6
Fenugreek seeds (Methi) 1/4 spoon
Pearl Onion (1 frozen pack)
Tomato 1 (optional)
Tamarind paste 2 tsp
Grated coconut 3 tsp
Green chilies 4
Turmeric 1/4 tsp
Cilantro a small bunch washed and
finely chopped
Curry leaves a few
Mustard 1/2 tsp
Cooking Oil 2 tsp
Salt 1 tsp (or to taste)
Method
Cook Tur dhal and turmeric with extra
water. Drain water and save in a
separate container
Scrap coconut
Fry channa dhal, red chilies, dhania,
methi, and little onion. Grind this
mixture with tomato and coconut
Peel onions (if fresh raw onions are
used)
Fry onions and green chilies in a pan
for a few minutes, and cook this in the
tur dhal water with salt
After it is cooked, add tamarind paste
and cook for a few minutes, and finally
add the ground paste
After this is cooked add the cooked tur
dhal
Heat little oil in a pan, splutter
mustard, and add this to the sambhar
Garnish with cilantro and curry leaves.
Anita Subramaniam
cumin and pepper rasam
Ingredients
Tur dhal 2 tsp
Cumin seeds 1/2 + 1/4 tsp
Pepper 1/2 tsp
Red chili 3
Tamarind paste 1/2 tsp
Turmeric 1/4 tsp
Curry leaves a few
Water 3 cups
Ghee 1/2 tsp
Salt 1 tsp (or to taste)
Method
Dry roast tur dhal and pepper
without oil for 1 minute
Soak this in water along with
red chili & cumin seeds for 10
minutes
Wet grind to a smooth paste
Boil tamarind in water, add
salt, turmeric, and add the
above mixture until the flavor
comes out
Fry 1/4 tsp cumin seeds, curry
leaves and 1 red chili in ghee
and add this to the rasam.
Anita Subramaniam
moor kozhambu
Ingredients
Cumin seeds 1 tsp
Red chilies 4
Green chilies 2
Rice flour 1/2 tsp
Asafetida (hing) a small pinch
Coconut 4 tsp
Coconut oil 1 tsp (optional)
Sour cream or butter milk 4 cups
Turmeric 1/4 tsp
Mustard 1/4 tsp
Salt 1 tsp (or to taste)
Curry leaves a few
Cilantro a small bunch washed
and finely chopped
Vegetables - White pumpkin or
okra, or zucchini or squash
Method
Cut vegetable into big pieces and
cook in water. If using okra, need
not cook but have to fry a little
Grind cumin, rice flour, red chilies,
with coconut and little salt and
butter milk
Heat some coconut/vegetable oil,
splutter mustard seeds
Add curry leaves, little hing, salt,
turmeric and the vegetables, and
fry this for a few minutes
Now add the ground paste and
the remaining butter milk to the
above and bring this to a boil on a
low flame
Simmer for a few minutes
Garnish with cilantro.
Anita Subramaniam
potato roast
Ingredients
Potatoes 1 pound
Turmeric 1/4 tsp
Asafetida (Hing) a small
pinch
Chili powder 1 tsp
Urad dhal 1/2 tsp
Mustard 1/4 tsp
Curry leaves a few
Cooking Oil 5 tsp
Salt 1 tsp (or to taste)
Method
Boil or microwave peeled
potatoes with turmeric and
salt.
Peel skin and dice them and
keep aside
Heat 5 tsp of oil in a
kadai/wok, splutter mustard
and urad dal
Add curry leaves
Add hing, chili powder,
turmeric, salt and diced
potatoes
Simmer the stove and let it
cook until the potatoes turn
light brown.
Anita Subramaniam
Taro root roast
Taro root
Chili powder
Curry leaves
Salt
Turmeric powder
Asafetida
Besan
Rice flour
Boil taro root in a
pressure cooker
Peel skin
Dice cross sectionally
Mix chili powder,besan,
rice four, salt, turmeric
powder, asafetida powder
and curry leaves (finely
chopped).
Dip or sprinkle on the
diced taro root
Deep fry in oil.
Anita Subramaniam
kootu
Ingredients
Coconut 1-2 tsp
Cumin seeds 1 tsp
Red chilies 5
Turmeric 1/2 tsp
Urad dhal 1 tsp
Coconut oil 1 tsp
Salt 1 tsp (or to taste)
Curry leaves a few
Vegetables:
Carrot, cabbage, peas, potatoes, etc.,
OR
Chow chow OR
Spinach OR
Snake gourd, OR
Squash OR
Nool Kohl OR
Zucchini
Method
Wash and dice vegetables into uniform
pieces
Cook them with a little salt and
turmeric
Wet grind coconut, cumin seeds, and
red chilies and add this paste to the
boiling vegetables
Cook until the flavor comes out
Heat some coconut oil in a pan,
splutter mustard and urad dhal, 1 red
chili, curry leaves, and add this to the
kootu.
Anita Subramaniam
Chutney
Coconut chutney
Ingredients
Coconut 1/2 cup grated
Roasted channa dal (Pottu Kadalai) 3
tsp
Green chilies 2
Salt 1/2 tsp
Method
Grind all the above ingredients.
Cilantro chutney
Ingredients
Urad dhal 4 tsp
Channa dhal 2 tsp
Red chilies 2
Green chilies 2
Cilantro 1 bunch
Hing 1/4 tsp
Tamarind paste 1/4 tsp
Salt 1/2 tsp
Oil 2 tsp
Method
Fry urad dhal, channa dhal, red chilies,
green chilies, and hing in oil.
Wet grind the above with chopped
cilantro, salt, and tamarind paste.
Anita Subramaniam
mango pickle
Ingredients
Mango 1 large or 2-4 small
Red chili powder 1/2 cup
Turmeric powder 1/4 tsp
Fenugreek seeds (Methi seeds)
1/2 tsp
Mustard 1/4 tsp
Hing 1/4 tsp
Salt 1/4 cup
Cooking oil 1/4 cup
Method
Cut mango into small dices,
removing the pitt, add salt,
turmeric, and keep it aside for
4-5 days.
Add red chili powder to this
mango and mix it well.
Roast methi seeds and dry grind it
and keep it aside.
Heat oil in a pan, and add
mustard, and hing and let it
cool.
When the above oil becomes
room temperature, mix it with
the mango, and add the
roasted methi powder.
Anita Subramaniam
tomato pachadi
Ingredients
Tomato 1 big and a few small
ones washed and chopped
Yogurt 2 cups
Curry leaves a few
Mustard 1/4 tsp
Asafetida (hing) a small pinch
Green chilies chopped 2-3
Cooking Oil 1.5 tsp
Cilantro a small bunch washed
and finely chopped
Salt 1/2 tsp (or to taste)
Method
Splutter mustard, and add
hing, curry leaves, green
chilies
Add tomato in oil and fry for 510 minutes
Add salt, and mix this with
yogurt
Garnish with chopped cilantro.
Anita Subramaniam
mysore pakku
Ingredients
Besan flour - 1 cup
Sugar - 2 1/2 cups
Water - 1 cup
Ghee - 2 1/2 cups
Cardamom (optional)
Method 1
Dry roast the gram flour to a golden
color. Keep aside.
Make a syrup with sugar and water to
one string consistency.
While stirring, slowly add the gram
flour. Continue stirring
Add melted ghee simultaneously.
Add all the ghee in this manner.
Cook till the mixture leaves the sides
of the pan.
Add cardamom powder.
Smear a plate with the ghee. Pour in
the mixture ,spread and level.
Leave it to cool.
While still warm cut into diamond
shapes.
Mysore pak should be porous, light and
crisp.
Method 2
Mix gram flour, sugar and water
smoothly.
Pour this into a pan and cook in low
heat.
Keep ghee in another vessel in low
heat and add this ghee to the gram
flour mixture in steps and with
constant stirring.
Do this until the mixture turns into a
non-sticky paste.
Grease the inside of a large bowl with
ghee and pour the cooked mixture on
this large bowl.
When it is still hot, cut into cubical
pieces by drawing parallel lines on its
surface.
Anita Subramaniam
Web sites with interesting recipes
Thamizhar Pakkam
URL: http://www.sysindia.com/kitchen/kitchen.html
http://www.geocities.com/NapaValley/8826/list.h
tm
India tastes.com
URL: http://www.indiatastes.com/
Saroj’s cookbook
URL: http://www.bawarchi.com/cookbook/south.html
Anita Subramaniam
Websites…
Dhinakarn Recipes
URL:
http://www.dinakaran.com/cook/cookery.htm
Anita Subramaniam