Transcript The Power of Peptides - LUX*ME SPA AND WELLNESS

Technical Training
2014
Company History
For over 30 years, CBI has been an industry leader in the
development, manufacturing, and packaging of superior quality,
natural-based, European-style formulations for the professional
skincare industry.
Founded in 1982 by two American
gentlemen studying botanical skin
care formulations in Europe.
Pioneered the use of botanicals in
the United States.
Some botanical formulations still
sold today are the exact “recipes”
that were found in Europe.
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CBI Philosophy
Maintain a leadership position in identifying and incorporating
advanced, innovative skincare technologies.
Continued pursuit in bringing first to market high technology
performance ingredients along with proven botanicals.
Use highest quality ingredients possible at active levels
combined with the safest preservatives.
Make products affordable to the spa/salon owner to maximize
their profit potential.
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Why CBI?
CBI Laboratories is one of the largest private label manufacturers in
the United States.
CBI offers a lower investment and higher mark-up of 300% to 800%.
You deal directly with the manufacturer – middleman.
Specialized knowledge of herbal and botanical infusions, marine
extracts, beta glucans, antioxidants, peptides and many other
unique ingredients.
We offer in-house imprinting options with minimums as low as 24
pieces per products, as well as, turn-key custom manufacturing.
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We Do Not Use
Mineral Oil
Petrolatum
Isopropyl Myristate
Crude Lanolins
Formaldehyde
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate
Mammal-Derived
Ingredients
We Avoid
Harsh Emulsifiers
Known Sensitizers
Synthetic Dyes &
Fragrances
Phthalates
Animal By-Products
Phosphates
Known Pore-Clogging
Ingredients
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Ingredient Innovations
2014
Waging War On Free Radicals
The human body is constantly under attack of free radicals.
Free radicals are highly reactive molecules (ROS) generated by
the biochemical redox reactions that occur as part of normal cell
metabolism, and by exposure to environmental factors: UV light,
smoke, pollutants and gamma radiation.
Once formed, free radicals attack all structures (DNA, cell
membranes, proteins) within the body.
As a result, free radicals have been implicated in numerous
diseases and are the primary cause of aging.
Topical use of anti-oxidants is necessary to prevent damages
caused by free radicals attacks.
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A “Radical” Breakthrough
In 1991 scientists discover the latest
technology to address the needs of
aging skin–which leads to:
Use of antioxidants in skincare
Vitamins A, C, E & Superoxide
Dismutase (enzyme found in
licorice) destroy free radicals on site
Legend:
Symbol for highly reactive
molecules with free radical
Symbol for free radicals, which
are trapped by vitamin E
Symbol for regenerated molecules
without free radical
Vitamin E and vitamin C interact
with each other in the skin to
protect against free radical attack
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Latest Advances in Antioxidants
Alpha Lipoic Acid – also called Thiocitic Acid, is a molecule
consisting of a sulfur and a hydrogen atom; derived from dietary
sources (spinach, brewer's yeast).
• “UNIVERSAL” antioxidant both lipid and water soluble
• Protects the integrity of the cell membrane, as well as offsets cell stress
• Researchers claim it is 400 times more potent than Vitamin C or E (As a
perk, it even recycles C and E, enhancing their effectiveness)
• Beyond anti-free radical action, it also plays a role in cell energy,
contributing to a healthy looking glowing complexion
(Found in Face Firming Complex)
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Latest Advances in Antioxidants
DMAE (di-methyl-amino-ethanol) Chemically known as dimethyl
amino ethanol, it is a naturally occurring substance and has a
significant firming effect on skin.
• In a study published in Skin Research and Technology Volume 8 Page
164 - August 2002, DMAE was shown to produce a firming effect on
the skin
• This mechanism may be due to the fact that DMAE functions as a cell
membrane stabilizer
• Based on clinical reports, DMAE may be the first topical antioxidants
that can help firm sagging skin
(Found in Face Firming Complex, Amino-Lift & Line Filler)
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Latest Advances in Antioxidants
Vitamin C Ester (ascorbyl palmitate – oil soluble) Scientifically
advanced form of Vitamin C (created by adding a fatty acid from
palm oil), with solubility that allows absorption to take place more
easily than other forms of vitamin C.
• Boosts protective antioxidant action
• Helps repair past damage by aiding new collagen production
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Latest Advances in Antioxidants
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable vitamin C
derivative that liberates the free vitamin (L-Ascorbic Acid) upon
contact with skin.
• Provides antioxidant properties and protects the skin's cells from
environmental damage such as sunlight and smoke
• Helps promote collagen formation, prevents signs of skin aging,
contributes to appearance of even skin tone
• Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is an approved skin lightening
quasi-drug ingredient in Japan
• Shelf life of Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is 3 years
(Found in Décolleté & Bust Contouring Crème, Skin Brightening Gel & Face Refresher)
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Latest Advances in Antioxidants
Emblica Cascading Antioxidant – a well-defined and patentprotected plant extract isolated from the fruit of the Asian plant
Phyllanthus emblica (Emblica officinalis).
• Emblica’s rich in low molecular weight tannins are by nature colored
entities (a.k.a. polyphenolics)
• Clinical tests on human volunteers showed that Emblica, minimizes the
appearance of freckles/age spots and is also an effective antioxidant and
matrix metalloprotease inhibitor (or MMPi)
• Completed studies demonstrate that, as an antioxidant, Emblica is a
broad-spectrum quencher of free radicals (cascading-effect) and an
inhibitor of collagenase
(Found in Eyebright Intensive Eye Crème)
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Hispanic Skin
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Asian Skin
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African Skin
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Latest Advances in Antioxidants
Edelweiss (INCI Name: Leontopodium alpinum extract)
• Clinically proven high-performance botanical; anti-oxidant/free-radical
scavenger, excellent soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.
• Functions:
• Anti-oxidant activity
• Inhibition of cell peroxidation
• Anti-inflammatory
• Anti-bactericidal
(Found in Daily Mineral Guard SPF 25)
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Latest Advances in Antioxidants
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Cutting Edge Ingredients
NECTAPURE® (INCI name: Buddleja davidii and Thymus vulgaris):
• A special extract blend of delicate but pollution-resistant plants combined
with the Swiss Mountain Water, clinically proven to fight against “city
stress" and improve skin moisture levels.
• Properties:
• Anti-oxidative
• Radical protecting
• Anti-pollution treatment
• Moisturizing
• Functions:
• Anti-aging (anti-oxidant, sun-damage protection,
anti-pollution)
• Moisturizing, soothing and healing
• Anti-microbial
(Found in Daily Mineral Guard SPF 25)
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Cutting Edge Ingredients
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Cutting Edge Ingredients
Phytosan®, (INCI name: water (and) glycerin (and) glycine soja
(soybean) seed extract): Innovative repair ingredient isolated from
soybean proteins.
Unique Characteristics: Built in wrinkle radar—seeks out age damage and
repairs it before it shows on your skin. So it not only helps slow down and
reverse the signs of aging, but stops wrinkles before they start!
• Clinical studies:
• 30% reduction of skin reddening from UV irradiation
• 60% increase in protein biosynthesis
• 27%increase in collagen biosynthesis
• 25%increase in skin firmness
• 22%increase in skin smoothness
• 23% reduction in depth of wrinkles
(Found in Daily Mineral Guard SPF 25)
*Phytosan® is a registered trademark of CLR: Chem. Lab. Dr. Kurt Richter, GmbH
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The Power of Peptides
Latest Innovation in Skin Care Technology
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A New Biological Era
Biotechnology is about
understanding, modifying and
ultimately exploiting proteins
for new and useful purposes.
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The Power of Peptides
What are peptides?
• Peptides (from the Greek word “Peptos” meaning digestible) are the
family of short molecules formed from the linking of various amino acids.
• The link between one amino acid residue and the next is amide bond or
a peptide bond.
• A chain of two or more amino acids joined together that build protein.
Formation of a peptide:
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The Power of Peptides
How do peptides work?
• Stimulate cell activity by interacting with molecules that signal cells
to produce more collagen
• Act as a messenger between the epidermis and the dermis
• Recent studies show that “lipo-peptides” help attract cells to other
sites that need repair and contributes to the reconstruction of the
dermis
• The addition of Ceramide 2 strengthens and repairs the skin’s
barrier, improves cell cohesion, enhancing water retention and
reducing skin dryness (See Dermaxyl™)
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Why Peptides?
Major companies launching more products that contain
peptides because of their proven anti-aging benefits
Delivery systems are playing an increasingly important
role in the development of skin care products
The technology behind them continues to become more
sophisticated
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History of Protein Trends
1960’s
1990’s
ALBUMIN
Plant
Proteins
1930’s
1980’s
GELATIN
Collagen/
Elastin
2002
PEPTIDES
The Power of Peptides
Amino Acids: Building blocks that make up all peptides and proteins
The 20 Amino Acids
Alanine
Arginine
Asparagine
Aspartic Acid
Cysteine
Glutamic Acid
Glutamine
Glycine
Histidine
Isoleucine
Leucine
Lysine
Methionine
Phenylalanine
Proline
Serine
Threonine
Tryptophan
Tyrosine
Valine
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Untangling the Peptide Terminology
Oligopeptide
• Small peptides containing 8 up to 24 amino acids
PolyPeptides
• Large peptides of 30 or more amino acids (AKA–proteins)
Di, Tri, Tetra, Penta, Hexa, Hepta - Peptides
• Identifies the number of amino acids in a peptide chain
• Alanyl-Valyl is a “Di” peptide
• Alanyl-Valyl-Glycine is a “Tri” peptide
• Lysyl-Glycyl-Tyrosyl-Glycine is a “Tetra” peptide
• Lysyl-Threonyl-Threonyl-Lysyl-Serine is a “Penta” peptide
(Sequence for Matrixyl - attached with fatty ester Palmitoyl)
• Glycyl-Valyl-Tyrosyl-Threonyl-Threonyl-Lysyl-Serine is a”Hepta”
peptide
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“Carrier” Molecules Are Attached to
Peptides
1.
Helps peptide pass through the skin’s barrier
(AKA the Stratum Corneum)
2.
Target key cell sites
3.
Perform time-release delivery
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Peptide “Carrier” Molecules
“Lipo” molecules
• Pamitoyl
• Acetyl
• Oleyl
• Myristyl
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The One That Started it All!
MATRIXYL® (INCI: Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3)
(Lysyl-Threonyl-Threonyl-Lysyl-Serine):
• This peptide material helps to reduce surface depth of wrinkles but
unlike Retinol is less irritating and faster acting
• Creates a neo-synthesis of collagen and fibronectin
• Clinical Test results show that when the proper percentage is used twice
a day for two to six months there is a reduction of deep surface wrinkles
by 68 and 90%
(Found in Botanical Bio Peptide Concentrate)
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Clinical Studies: Matrixyl™
Self-Assessment:
75% of the
volunteers stated
that the product
SMOOTHES the skin
52% observed a
decrease in wrinkles
and crows feet.
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Peptides
ARGIRELINE® (INCI: Acetyl hexapeptide-3):
Neuro-peptide which inhibits wrinkle formation by preventing the
transmission of nerve impulses to the muscles.
• Reduces the degree of existing facial wrinkles
• Controlled studies demonstrated that facial wrinkle depth can be
reduced, especially in the forehead and around the eyes
• Laboratory tests revealed that the severity of wrinkles decreased up to
27% after 30 days of treatment
• Skin topographic analysis performed on healthy female volunteers
confirmed the validation of the proposed biochemical mechanism of
action
(Found in Line Filler)
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Peptides
DERMAXYL™ (INCI: C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate -Tribehenin Ceramide 2 -PEG 10 Rapeseed Sterol -Palmitoyl Oligopeptide):
A new anhydrous ingredient based on peptide technology, utilizes a
Matrikine (a.k.a. Peptide) and Ceramide 2 blend.
• Clinical Studies show that DERMAXYL™ helps attract cells to sites
that need repair and contributes to the reconstruction of the dermis
• Ceramide 2 strengthens and repairs the skin’s barrier. It improves
cell cohesion, enhancing water retention and reducing skin
inflammation and dryness
(Found in Botanical Bio-Peptide Intensive Crème)
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Clinical Study:
The anti-wrinkling
efficacy of DERMAXYL™
After once daily application, for 56 days the results were dramatic:
Volume of main wrinkle reduced on average by 13.7%
… and reached as much as 36%!
Depth of main wrinkle reduced on average by 10.1%
… and as much as 27%!
Surface area of deep wrinkles reduced on average by 40.3%
... and as much as 98%!
Medium wrinkles reduced on average by 24.5%
... and as much as 86%!
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Clinical Studies: Dermaxyl™
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Peptides
CALMOSENSINE™ (INCI: Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester):
New peptide promotes Well-Being by reducing the perception of unpleasant
sensations.
• Promotes the release of pro-endorphins, provides a tranquilizing effect
on the skin
• Relieves tension, inhibits muscle contractions responsible for wrinkles
and expression lines
• Modulates the perception of temperature, chemical aggressions, and
tactile sensation
• First cosmetic active ever shown to reduce the emotional response to
tactile aggression
(Found in Line Filler)
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Peptides
Matrixyl3000™ - (INCI name: Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Water,
Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl
Tetrapeptide-3):
Based on peptide technology MATRIXYL™ utilizes two matrikines (a.k.a.
Peptides) for their synergistic effect in the neo-synthesis of collagen.
• Clinical studies show that Matrixyl 3000 lifts and firms the skin,
significantly reducing the appearance of wrinkles
• After only 2 months, the surface area of the skin occupied by deep
wrinkles was reduced by 45% on average
(Found in AminoLift & Peptide Activator)
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Clinical Studies: Matrixyl™3000
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Peptides
Eyeliss™ (INCI: Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl
Tetrapeptide-3):
Combines three active molecules used specifically in eye care preparations.
• Shown to reduce under-bag volume by improving the lymphatic
circulation and the firmness and elasticity of the surrounding delicate
eye tissue
• Also decreased the inflammatory response in the eye area
• Study with 20 volunteers, using an application in a gel formula, twice a
day for less than two months, there was a decrease of under bag
volume of 70% by the last day
(Found in Eyebright Anti-Puffiness Gelee & Eyebright Intensive Eye Crème)
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Clinical Studies: Eyeliss™
Topometry studies of chronic bags show that the height of the bag is
significantly reduced after treatment with EYELISS.
•65% of panellists showed a measurable improvement after only 28 days!
•70% of the panelists showed a measurable improvement after 56 days!
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Peptides
MaxiLip™ (INCI: Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Tribehenin, Sorbitan Isostearate,
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide):
Anhydrous peptide blend helps to restore glycosaminoglycans and collagen,
increasing lip moisture and adding volume to improve the contour of the lips.
•
•
•
•
After 29 days of treatment with MAXI LIP™ …
Furrows were reduced by up to 30%
Lip moisture increased by as much as 60%
Lip volume increased by 40% on average
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Latest Peptide Innovations
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Latest Peptide Innovations
SNAP-8® (INCI: Acetyl Octapeptide-3):
A new neuro-octapeptide that is an elongation of the famous
hexapeptide ARGIRELINE®.
• SNAP-8 reduces the surface depth of wrinkles on the face
caused by the contraction of muscles through facial expression,
especially the forehead and eye area.
(Found in AminoLift Peptide Complex)
*SNAP-8® is a registered trademark/ingredient of Lipotec S.A. - North American Distributor: Centerchem, Inc.
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How Does SNAP-8® Work?
Muscles are contracted when they receive neurotransmitter
signals from certain receptors.
The SNARE (SNAp REceptor) complex is essential for this
neurotransmitter release.
It is a ternary complex formed by the proteins VAMP, Syntaxin
and SNAP-25 (SyNaptosomal Associated Protein).
Complex is like a cellular hook which captures vesicles and
fuses them with the membrane for the release of
neurotransmitter.
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How Does SNAP-8® Work?
SNAP-8 competes with
SNAP-25 for a position
in the SNARE complex,
thereby altering its
formation.
If this complex is slightly
destabilized, the vesicle
can not release
neurotransmitters
efficiently and therefore
muscle contraction is
attenuated, preventing
the formation of lines
and wrinkles
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Clinical Studies: SNAP-8®
It can be observed that the depth of the wrinkle has significantly decreased
after 28 days of treatment
The maximum reduction value found for SNAP-8 was – 63.13% after 28 days!
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SNAP-8® Clinical Evaluation
• Results compared to a previous test (October 2001) performed by same
company using the same technique, testing Argireline®.
•The two extra amino acids from the SNAP25 sequence seems to moderately
increase the anti-wrinkle activity.
•Final conclusion is that, both in vivo and in vitro efficacy testing suggests that
SNAP-8 is approximately 30% more active than its parent peptide Argireline®.
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Myoxinol LS 9736
Myoxinol® (INCI: Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Extract (and) Dextrin):
New oligopeptide complex obtained by the biotransformation of native proteins
from the seeds of Hibiscus esculentus (okra).
• First assessed using an in-vitro test on co-cultured muscle cell and
neuronal cells, substantiating the “muscle-relaxing” claim.
• Use of MYOXINOL LS 9736 resulted in a significant reduction in muscle
cells contractions, the primary mechanical factor responsible for the
appearance of dynamic facial wrinkles
• Contraction-inhibiting effect stops 24 hours after application, demonstrating
the gentle character of the ingredient
• The anti-wrinkle activity of Myoxinol® is demonstrated by these clinical
results: a 26% reduction of wrinkle depth after a 3-week treatment using an
emulsion containing 1% Myoxinol®.
(Found in AminoLift Peptide Complex and Peptide Powder Peel)
* Myoxinol® is a registered trademark/ingredient of Laboratoires Serobiologiques - division of Cognis France
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Clinical Evaluation
Before treatment
After 3 weeks
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Breakthrough Innovations
Latest Cutting-Edge Anti-Aging Ingredients
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Latest Cutting-Edge Ingredients
MDI Complex, (INCI name: Glycosaminoglycans):
A Mucopolysaccharide active ingredient clinically proven to decrease
facial redness (rosacea) and significantly decrease the appearance of
telangiectasia on the face.
Unique Characteristics:
Specifically inhibits the matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) enzymes that
degrade the skin’s collagen network.
Clinical studies:
• 60% increase in skin barrier function after 2 weeks
• 35% reduction in appearance of rosacea/spider veins after 4 weeks
• 41% reduction in appearance of rosacea/spider veins after 8 weeks
• 60% reduction of induced skin irritation
(Found in RosaCalm)
*MDI Complex is a registered trademark/ingredient of Atrium Biotechnologies
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Clinical Studies: MDI Complex
MDI Complex has been clinically shown to reduce the
appearance of rosacea
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Clinical Studies: MDI Complex
Reduction of the color intensity of the face by up to 41%
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Latest Cutting-Edge Ingredients
KIGELINE® (INCI name: Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract):
• Discovered in Africa by scientists researching indigenous plants and
fruit used by African tribes.
• An extract of the fruit of the Kigelia Africana tree.
• It contains flavonoids and steroidic saponosides that demonstrate
superior firming properties – specifically in the bust area.
• This product is designed to tonify and harden the bust while improving
the firmness and elasticity of the skin.
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Clinical Studies: Kigelia Africana Fruit
Product formulated with Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract
applied once a day with a prolonged massage, covering
the whole bust area and the neck during 4 weeks.
The 20 volunteers are between 30 and 45 year old women
with at least one pregnancy, and a breast measurement
less than 90 cm.
Clinical Results
• The iconographic analysis on the volunteers allow to
determinate the distance mammilla /sternum, and estimate
the efficiency of KIGELINE on the raising up of the breast.
• With 44% of the volunteers, we observe a tensor effect of the
bust showing adiminution of the distance mammilla I sternum.
Overall Results
• BUST FIRMNESS IMPROVEMENT = 50 %
• CUTANEOUS FIRMNESS IMPROVEMENT = 55 %
• CUTANEOUS ELASTICITY IMPROVEMENT = 70 %
confidential property of cbi laboratories, inc. ©2014
CBI Formulations with Peptides
Botanical Bio-Peptide Concentrate
Botanical Bio-Peptide Crème
Eyebright Anti-puffiness Gelee
Eyebright Intensive Eye Crème
Line Filler
Lip Treatment
Amino-Lift™ Peptide Complex
RosaCalm™ Skin Serum
Peptide Powder Peel
Peptide Activator
confidential property of cbi laboratories, inc. ©2014
Summary Q & A
Q:What antioxidant is considered a “UNIVERSIAL” antioxidant –
meaning that it can penetrate both the water layer and lipid layer of
the skin cells?
Alpha Lipoic Acid (a.k.a. Thiocitic Acid)
Q:What cascading antioxidant is clinically proven to improve
pigmentation across all Fitzpatrick types (skin ethnicities)?
Phyllanthus emblica (Emblica officinalis)
Q: What plant-based ingredient acts like a built in wrinkle radar—
seeks out age damage and repairs it before it shows on your skin. ?
Phytosan® —INCI name: water (and) glycerin (and) glycine soja
(soybean) seed extract
Q:What is the definition of a Peptide?
A chain of two or more amino acids joined together that build
protein
confidential property of cbi laboratories, inc. ©2014
Summary Q & A
Q:What helps peptides to pass through the skin’s barrier?
Attaching “Lipo” carrier molecules that are esters, and fatty
acids which have stronger adherence to the skin
Q: What are di-, tri-, tetra, penta peptides?
The Greek nomenclature for identifying peptides based on the
number of amino acids that constitute them
Q:What peptide reduces the appearance of wrinkle depth by 63.13%
after 28 days of use?
SNAP-8® INCI: Acetyl Octapeptide-3 — A new neuro-octapeptide
that is an elongation of the famous hexapeptide ARGIRELINE®.
Q: What are GAGS?
Acronym for Glycosaminoglycans - Naturally occurring
mucopolysaccharides that produce and regulate water in the
dermis – as well as improve facial redness and irritation
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The CBI Advantage
“If you have a brand, and wish to creatively impact its future,
we are here to help you make that happen.”
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Phone: 972/241-7546 Fax: 972/241-7302
www.cbiskincare.com
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